My 1986 250sx thread (newest pics on page 4)

[Dammit!]

02-17-2007: Missed out on a sweet 350x this weekend but ended up with this instead. Paid $520 for it which sounds high looking at the pics but it's really solid mechanically. Starts very easily even with no battery and has good power. No wobbly bearings. Only mechanical issue is the front forks. They're bent badly and leaking (anybody got any good fork tubes, pm me). The cooler rack is bent but it looks like the frame is fine. This is going to be for my gf to ride so I'm pretty happy with it.

The wires for the battery need to be replaced. Didn't look to much at it but I assume there's a rear wiring harness so I could just switch out the whole thing?

The way the shock is moved over to one side, is that normal?

Gonna need a new switch too. Are they readily available?

[Dammit!]

New plastics and seat and it will look pretty good. No dents in the tank and no rust in it either.

[Chevy200s]

Good deal man, I gotta get me an SX someday. I dont have 250sx forks, but I do have a nice set for a 200X. I only mention because I've read of people swapping over before, didnt know if it would be something you would be interested in. Let me know! Again nice deal and good luck with it

[chris200x]

I'm not real sure about that rear shock Doug. I know mine is centered though. Could it be tweaked from a bad rollover perhaps?

either way.. nice score. she'll be very happy I'm sure.

[Huffa]

For your girl friend the SX is a perfect choice, she will love it I'm sure.

The shock being over to the L in the "A" frame (think that's what you mean) part of the swingarm is normal.

I have a set of forks and a decent headlight assembly if you need one of those also. Been a while since I saw the forks on a parts machine that I have but I think they are decent yet. I'll lket you know.

The switch's are on ebay quite often and you should not have a problem finding any SX part you want, there are a lot of them out there.

I see in the one pic that your mud flap in the front got melted just a bit from the header pipe , that I see quite often on a lot of SX's. They are not that easy to come by, not sure if I have one or not?

That SX should clean up nice and who knows, maybe in years to come, you'll do it up like your R and have the best looking SX on here also!

After 2nd glance at your shock picture I see I misunderstood you and you mean how the shock is slid over to L on bushing, NO, that is not correct, it should be centered.

[Dammit!]

I'm talking about the bottom shock mount (first pic, second post) being all the way over to one side. Doesn't seem normal.

I do need a white headlight also. I do have the lens. Just need a shell. Is the one you have a white one huffa? Does Maier make these? Let me know what all you have. The forks are the biggest thing right now. I don't want to teach her how to ride with forks bent that badly.

Anybody spot anything else that doesn't look right?

[nouseforaname90]

http://www.supload.us/thumbs/default/DSCN2918.JPG (http://www.supload.us/free/DSCN2918.JPG/view/)


Does this help?

[Huffa]

I'm talking about the bottom shock mount (first pic, second post) being all the way over to one side. Doesn't seem normal.

I do need a white headlight also. I do have the lens. Just need a shell. Is the one you have a white one huffa? Does Maier make these? Let me know what all you have. The forks are the biggest thing right now. I don't want to teach her how to ride with forks bent that badly.

Anybody spot anything else that doesn't look right?

I edited my post above about the shock before I read this one ..........

I only have a red headlight assembly but you could Krylon Fusion paint it white and make it look almost like a new white one!

[nouseforaname90]

Ahh I didn't see those pics either. And yes that is not correct.. it should be centered.

[Dammit!]

I also need a left hand brake lever too. This one is broken (and unfortunately pretty sharp to boot).

[Huffa]

I also need a left hand brake lever too. This one is broken (and unfortunately pretty sharp to boot).

I can't recall if I have one or not on the poor parts trike I got, I'll check on that too.

I do know I found a place that sells them (not OEM) really cheap but that was a long time ago, not sure if i can find the link, I'll see if i can. I have one on mine.

I have this R fender for 26 bucks. The trunk lid is trashed and the seat of course is no good altough if you wanted it, you can have it with it. I just figure it up's the shipping cost quite a bit, ya know?

This was with the parts trike, I did not do the repair on it.

Hey, I have a decent front fender too! What the heck, take the rear and I will throw the front one at ya for $1.89 . Now that one, I do take the credit for the stitch job.

So lets see here, for a grand total of $83.89 + shipping which is the headlight, forks, R & F fender , you can have that trike looking pretty decent!


Here is the parts one, this is how I found it, not how I store it, poor thing :cry:

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21084&d=1135422796

[Dammit!]

I don't think I need the fenders actually. The shipping would end up being a little steep. There's a local place here that sells new Maiers for really good prices and I think I saw a 250sx rear fender last time I was there. However, I may want the mud flaps if they're not cracked and if you can bare to seperate them. ;)

Does anybody know if the Maier rears have the trunk and the mudflap holes?

[dizasterzrfun69]

I don't think I need the fenders actually. The shipping would end up being a little steep. There's a local place here that sells new Maiers for really good prices and I think I saw a 250sx rear fender last time I was there. However, I may want the mud flaps if they're not cracked and if you can bare to seperate them. ;)

Does anybody know if the Maier rears have the trunk and the mudflap holes?

hey dammit, my old man is parting an 85 250sx on ebay right now. He had a good set of forks too i believe. Just dont try and get him to sell you some mud flaps...im still working on getting them from him for my 85 :lol: anyway, im sure you know but its erectordale on here and spikers42 on ebay. Also my 85 250sx maier fenders came with mudflap holes but no place for a trunk.

[Dammit!]

I just e-mailed him a couple hours ago. :lol:

I knew it was someone on here but wasn't sure who.

[nouseforaname90]

The Maier fenders do not have the trunk and I'm pretty sure they don't have the mudflap holes either.. you need to drill them.

[Kintore]

Nice ride doug,

I got some 200x forks, trips and a front hub if your wanting to make the swap over to the 200 front end?

[Dirtcrasher]

Nice score, great complete 86. Thats good, the 86 has the good carburetor and the updated rear swingarm/brake system.

Theres nothing wrong with the lower mount other than the metal sleeve is worn out and it allows the shock to slide to one side. All the SX lower mounts wear out because of dirt and water entry.

Be sure to take apart that swingarm/diff and give it a new rubber boot if there is any hint of water entry into that rear diff fluid.

[mad_max]

The Maier fenders do not have the trunk and I'm pretty sure they don't have the mudflap holes either.. you need to drill them.

Nope, Maier's do have the mudflap holes, my SX has Maier plastic.

http://www.terraworld.net/mikemax/dirt%20hi%20rear.jpg

[Dirtcrasher]

I use the Maier fenders and "race cut" the part where the mud flaps go on. If you don't want to get dirty, leave the fender alone and run the flaps. I like the sportier look with them cut and the 350X front ends.

I'll take some pictures later but they won't be as clean as double MM's are, LOL!!

The problem with the SX's is the gas tank. Unless you have a good stocker, you have to run the plastic Clarke. It's a great tank but the white looks crappy after use and only the red stays nice. Them you have to run a white rear fender because the Maier doesn't match the Clarke red and it looks shitee. One of my SX's looks good but I don't like the other, I need another white fender...

Hey max, get that perforated strap off of that tailight!! You keep that thing nice, how could you allow that on there??J/K

Need to grab up some 1/8 aluminum and make a mount for that badboy.

[Dammit!]

My tank is actually pretty nice. It has a couple of rock chips in it but no dents and no rust inside.

[Dirtcrasher]

My tank is actually pretty nice. It has a couple of rock chips in it but no dents and no rust inside.


Nice! Then just grab a red Maier and you'll be all set. I think there under 100$, it is sad to lose that trunk though. I have an OEM in my barn that I don't run. It's not mint but I still don't want to wreck it.

All this NOS OEM crap is just way too expensive for the average blue collar struggling American worker......

[Huffa]

MadMax, How you doing, don't see you much on here any more? I have a ? for you here..........

I have been thinking about getting a Maiers rear fender for mine but since I'm highly concerned with fit and finish your rear fender shot there raises a concern about how the flaps fit?

To me they don't look flush to the fender, almost like the mold does not accept them right and that would bother me enough to not want it. Maybe the angle of the pic makes it look worse then it really is, so could you possibly take some identiacl pictures like my stock one here to compare?

A good OEM SX rear, I mean a really nice one (I never saw one yet for sale) would go for well over 200 bucks I bet, maybe even 300! Seems they all have a crack somewhere or other so this is why I'm thinking of putting on the Maiers.

OH man, now that I look at yours again the fit, well there is not fit on the rear, it does not even except the flap at all how it should go. Can the Maiers be cut so it will except it? At the very end of OEM flap it hooks in underneath the fender, if you trimmed the Maiers could you make the hook part, hook too?

Sorry to make a big deal over this but I'm picky and the fit looks downright poor to me.

[Huffa]

I use the Maier fenders and "race cut" the part where the mud flaps go on. If you don't want to get dirty, leave the fender alone and run the flaps. I like the sportier look with them cut and the 350X front ends.

I'll take some pictures later but they won't be as clean as double MM's are, LOL!!

The problem with the SX's is the gas tank. Unless you have a good stocker, you have to run the plastic Clarke. It's a great tank but the white looks crappy after use and only the red stays nice. Them you have to run a white rear fender because the Maier doesn't match the Clarke red and it looks shitee. One of my SX's looks good but I don't like the other, I need another white fender...

Hey max, get that perforated strap off of that tailight!! You keep that thing nice, how could you allow that on there??J/K

Need to grab up some 1/8 aluminum and make a mount for that badboy.


Why would a white tank look crappier then a red tank after use, that makes no sense? Equally taken care of, both colors should look the same.

[chris200x]

white plastic tanks tend to yellow from the gas after a while.

[the great gazoo]

Oh come on, now! Any one on here ever hear of bleach? All you have to do with those white Clarke(or IMS) tanks is buy a bottle of 'Softscrub" with bleach. I've used this stuff for years on many different white plastics, especially fuel tanks. It REALLY works if you use it before the tank starts yellowing. Try it out, you'll be pleasantly surprised! TGG..................

[Dammit!]

Man I really hate it when people neglect their machines. I just opened up the airbox a little while ago, don't know why on earth I didn't do this when I looked at originally because I usually do but, there was no air filter. Just the metal cage and what was left of the rotten foam was at the bottom of the airbox. A large amount of thick dust got into the carb and motor. I cannot believe it started as easy as it does and runs good with no smoke. Doesn't idle real well but that's probably a clogged pilot after seeing this mess.

Also, I'm really sick of the cheap arse screws on carbs. I don't think I've ever had a carb that didn't have chewed up screws on the float bowl because the metal is so soft.

Question 1: I haven't dealt with jetting this type of carb yet. This is actually the first time I've seen one of these two piece main jets. What is the deal with that? The little end cap was so loose it was about to fall off. Is that intended to be some sort of adjustable part or should it be snug against the other part of the main jet?

Question 2: Is the float bowl o-ring still available or is that discontinued? How about the choke cable?

Here's a pic of the crap that was going straight into the carb. Unbelievable.

[Dirtcrasher]

MadMax, How you doing, don't see you much on here any more? I have a ? for you here..........

I have been thinking about getting a Maiers rear fender for mine but since I'm highly concerned with fit and finish your rear fender shot there raises a concern about how the flaps fit?

To me they don't look flush to the fender, almost like the mold does not accept them right and that would bother me enough to not want it. Maybe the angle of the pic makes it look worse then it really is, so could you possibly take some identiacl pictures like my stock one here to compare?

A good OEM SX rear, I mean a really nice one (I never saw one yet for sale) would go for well over 200 bucks I bet, maybe even 300! Seems they all have a crack somewhere or other so this is why I'm thinking of putting on the Maiers.

OH man, now that I look at yours again the fit, well there is not fit on the rear, it does not even except the flap at all how it should go. Can the Maiers be cut so it will except it? At the very end of OEM flap it hooks in underneath the fender, if you trimmed the Maiers could you make the hook part, hook too?

Sorry to make a big deal over this but I'm picky and the fit looks downright poor to me.



MAIER will never please anyone if they want an OEM look. Forget the fit and finish it isn't even close. OEM is a waste of money unless you have money to waste. One crash and your prestine fender is junk. Stock Maier is about 100$ for a rear.

As for your post about the tank fading not making sense. The white tank turns yellow. Softscrub does not fix it, it is a yellowish color that gets into the plastic and doesn't come out, period... The red tank is a much better choice but it limits your other plastic options.

[Dirtcrasher]

Man I really hate it when people neglect their machines. I just opened up the airbox a little while ago, don't know why on earth I didn't do this when I looked at originally because I usually do but, there was no air filter. Just the metal cage and what was left of the rotten foam was at the bottom of the airbox. A large amount of thick dust got into the carb and motor. I cannot believe it started as easy as it does and runs good with no smoke. Doesn't idle real well but that's probably a clogged pilot after seeing this mess.

Also, I'm really sick of the cheap arse screws on carbs. I don't think I've ever had a carb that didn't have chewed up screws on the float bowl because the metal is so soft.

Question 1: I haven't dealt with jetting this type of carb yet. This is actually the first time I've seen one of these two piece main jets. What is the deal with that? The little end cap was so loose it was about to fall off. Is that intended to be some sort of adjustable part or should it be snug against the other part of the main jet?

Question 2: Is the float bowl o-ring still available or is that discontinued? How about the choke cable?

Here's a pic of the crap that was going straight into the carb. Unbelievable.



The float bowl ring is a molded ring, you have to buy the complete kit from Honda which is an expensive gasket set. Buy a moose or EBAY rebuild kit for an SX or a 350X if the SX isn't available - you'll get all the jets and the airscrew oring, bowl ring etc etc.

Keep the jet snug. The 2 piece jet can be replaced with a one piece, it's just the way they did it. Toss on a 350X bowl and the main jet is accessable with the carb on the trike.

I always replace bowl screws with SS allen heads, yes - the stockers don't last unless you have a really good screwdriver, are the 1st one to take it apart and have a dab of grease on the threads.

Sorry about the no AF, it is very frustrating to know that people could care less :rolleyes:

[Huffa]

MAIER will never please anyone if they want an OEM look. Forget the fit and finish it isn't even close. OEM is a waste of money unless you have money to waste. One crash and your prestine fender is junk. Stock Maier is about 100$ for a rear.

As for your post about the tank fading not making sense. The white tank turns yellow. Softscrub does not fix it, it is a yellowish color that gets into the plastic and doesn't come out, period... The red tank is a much better choice but it limits your other plastic options.

Well Maiers is out of the ? if the fit is that bad. I would not go as far to say one crash and a OEM is junk. Just depends on the crash.

I thought he meant a metal tank at 1st. Just read it too fast.

I have seen really old (80's) white plastic tanks look really nice yet, maybe it just depends if they had gas in them their whole life or not? The yellow gets on red tanks too but it can be scraped off, why could you not scrape it off a white tank too?

I may have a choke cable for you too, Dammit.

[Dammit!]

The yellow on a white tank is a different animal than the oxidizing you see on R tanks. The yellow comes from the inside out. The material gets discolored over time because the fumes penetrate the plastic.

I haven't tried it but, it's possible that if you were to line a white plastic tank with red kote, that would stop the fumes and stop the problem. Taht would let you apply decals to a plastic tank without the bubbling too (assuming it works).

[Dirtcrasher]

Here are some shots of my ugly beasts, bot run MAIER plastics and have been circumsized...

[Dammit!]

I always replace bowl screws with SS allen heads, yes - the stockers don't last unless you have a really good screwdriver, are the 1st one to take it apart and have a dab of grease on the threads.



I just ordered an ebay rebuild kit. Thanks for the tip. Where can I score some SS allen heads for the carb?

[Huffa]

The yellow on a white tank is a different animal than the oxidizing you see on R tanks. The yellow comes from the inside out. The material gets discolored over time because the fumes penetrate the plastic.

I haven't tried it but, it's possible that if you were to line a white plastic tank with red kote, that would stop the fumes and stop the problem. Taht would let you apply decals to a plastic tank without the bubbling too (assuming it works).

Can't use Red kote on plastic tanks.

[Dammit!]

A couple people have tried with decent results. I bet if you put some really coarse sand in the tank and shook it up for a while to roughen up the surface it would work.

[Huffa]

A couple people have tried with decent results. I bet if you put some really coarse sand in the tank and shook it up for a while to roughen up the surface it would work.

I doubt it since in the directions it says : Red-Kote ® does not stick well to plastic tanks or to plastic parts inside a gas tank.

I just ordered the stuff for one of my tanks, can't wait to try it! :beer

[mad_max]

...Hey max, get that perforated strap off of that tailight!! You keep that thing nice, how could you allow that on there??J/K

Need to grab up some 1/8 aluminum and make a mount for that badboy.


I agree. Strap=Crap.

That pic is older but I like it because it is very clear and sharp. I run a 400EX taillight. Heres a pic.....

[mad_max]

MadMax, How you doing, don't see you much on here any more? I have a ? for you here..........

I have been thinking about getting a Maiers rear fender for mine but since I'm highly concerned with fit and finish your rear fender shot there raises a concern about how the flaps fit?

To me they don't look flush to the fender, almost like the mold does not accept them right and that would bother me enough to not want it. Maybe the angle of the pic makes it look worse then it really is...


Yes, it looks worse at the low angle than it does overhead but it is still a crappy fit.
I dont know if the flaps are Maier or OEM, but if you want a nice clean fit you'll have to go OEM. IMO crappy flaps are better than no flaps, I ride mostly in pastures and anything that will slow the cow shite down is worth it :)

[Dammit!]

Here's a dumb question. How do you put these goofy things in reverse? :lol:

[chris200x]

while in nuetral there is a little button on the left had brake. push the button and pull in the hand brake lever. then press down on the gear shifter. reverse is down one from nuetral.

didn't you post pictures of you riding your buddies 250sx back in the day? :lol:

[Dammit!]

didn't you post pictures of you riding your buddies 250sx back in the day? :lol:

Dude that was like 1986. :lol:

[breastman569]

Where can I score some SS allen heads for the carb?

i get all my ss allens at ACE Hardwear

[Dammit!]

i get all my ss allens at ACE Hardwear

I didn't think they'd have items like that but I got some from there today too. I had to go to a different one than I normally do though. The one nearest to me sucks. They never have anything.

Got some new stuff today besides the allen bolts for the carb. Picked up a blem rear fender (the blem is hardly even noticable), a new non-blem front fender, some blue daystar fork boots, a new Uni filter and I have parts coming from a couple board members. The seat is about to be on it's way to the Mosh's for some new foam and cover. It should be up and running and looking good before you know it.

I need a left side rear fender mudflap and fasteners! I wasn't sure if I was going to use the mudflaps but the fit is actually better than I was expecting it to be.

:pics:

You can kinda see how bad the forks are bent in the third pic.

[Dirtcrasher]

Your gonna scrap all that SX stuff for a 200X front end anyhow aren't you?? When the SX forks are bent, most of the time the steering stem is bent too.

[Dammit!]

I plan on keeping it all SX actually. Hopefully the stem ain't bent. I'll be sure to check it out though. Thanks for the heads up.

[Dammit!]

What are some good tire options that are real close to stock? I don't want some super stiff mud tires. Does Dunlop make something like the original Ohtsu?

[Dirtcrasher]

I plan on keeping it all SX actually. Hopefully the stem ain't bent. I'll be sure to check it out though. Thanks for the heads up.


Unless you have some v blocks and an indicator to check it out. It will show up when you try to set the headset. You'll get it perfectly smooth by itself without any tubes. But when you slide the fork tubes and tighten them down, it will bind up.

It's great to keep it stock - you have the R and all. But at the very least modification, the 200X tubes slide right in and give you a great front disc brake, remove alot of weight, better suspension and turn so much better with the skinny tire.

Then you'll find how sweet the 250R front fender looks on there :twisted: Sorry.... At one point all I could afford was an SX and I made it as best as I could. Some of you guys like to keep them OEM and thats great too :beer

[Huffa]

For all around use, I LOVE my Maxxis All Trak's.

http://www.maxxis.com/products/atv/product_detail.asp?id=49

Not really the answer your looking for but thought I'd give another good SX rear tire choice.

[Huffa]

I plan on keeping it all SX actually. Hopefully the stem ain't bent. I'll be sure to check it out though. Thanks for the heads up.

For sure I have the triple clamp/stem assembly, two of them as a matter of fact.

[Dammit!]

For sure I have the triple clamp/stem assembly, two of them as a matter of fact.

Excellent. Hopefully mine is ok but good to know where to get one if I need it. :beer

[Dave223]

The Maiers DO have the mudflap holes in em, but no space for the trunk...Nice trike btw, My wife LOVES hers, she was P.O.ed when I blew the rear end in it:D

oops, didnt realize this was 4 pages long!

[Dammit!]

Just felt like putting some current pics in this thread. Not done yet but just about. I still have the Harlan decal kit to install and I'll probably go ahead and paint the tank this summer. I picked up a headlight guard for it recently too that's not on here yet.

Does Douglas make a one piece front rim that will work on these with no mods? I might want to put front and rear polished rims on it at some point.

Pics show the Maier mudflaps we were talking about earlier in this thread. Not nearly as nice as OEM but a decent alternative and cheap which is my favorite part. :lol:

Edit: by the way, I had no problem getting the 86 choke cable to work with an 85 switch.

[3Wheelers4Life]

looks very nice - a big change from when you first got it

[dividebyzero]

Lookin good man! Was wondering if the gold R rims gave it anymore hp, top speed or lightened the load?Never seen an sx with paddles before?The motor turns em pretty good?

[Dammit!]

Lookin good man! Was wondering if the gold R rims gave it anymore hp, top speed or lightened the load?Never seen an sx with paddles before?The motor turns em pretty good?

I don't like the gold. When I eventually get new tires for it I'll probably strip the anodizing off.

It turned the paddles pretty decently. It handled the dunes better than I expected it to, for sure. I do feel like it needs just a touch more power though. If it had a 10.25:1 piston and a Supertrapp I think it would make just enough of a difference on some of the bigger dunes.

[SPECK]

I ride an 86' 250sx and they are great! Nice find.

[mad_max]

Looks pretty nice... but I agree the gold needs to go.
_______

Now you'll find yourself reachin' for the start button on the 250R ;)