1970 Honda ATC 90

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Well, I'm new to the forums and I have a few questions for all those intellectual souls out there. I'm not a mechanic and I'm not very intelligent when it comes to automotive.

Anyways, onto the questions. I own a 1970 Honda ATC 90. I paid 75 dollars for it, and it still has the original balloon tires on the back, and a regular 3 wheeler tire on the front. From research, it has 89cc's and should run like a dream. I've found alot of people who own the same bike, maybe a newer year, but never the less, the same bike. They don't have any trouble with their's. But, now onto mine.

The previous owner use to ride it all the time, til' he got his Oddyssey and other high end motorcycles and ATV's, he didn't ride it at all anymore. So, he hung it up for about a year in his garage before I purchased it. I didn't expect it to run right away, as it is fairly old. So, I changed the oil, put brand new oil in it, I changed the gas, and put brand new gas in it. I bought a brand new air filter and put that on as well.

So, after all the work, the verdict. I pulled it, ohhh about 75 times on average, in between adjusting the Jetting and the Idle on the carburetor in hopes that it would start.

Finally, it started, Wooo hooo! I let it run a little bit, and adjusted the idle so it would just stay running without giving it gas. Then, I went to get it to go. Popped it into first, and gave it a little gas, as it lunged forward and quit. Instantly I jumped off and tried to get it started again, it started, so I tried again. It lunged forward and it quit. Frustrated after all the work I've done that it won't run properly to any extent, I gave up. It was midnight, anyway.

So, the next day I decided, well, there's got to be something else wrong, so I took off the carburetor and I cleaned it out a little bit, and I tried it again by putting it back on and adjusting the jetting and idle and got it started, this time, I popped it into first and it actually went.. I was riding it, for the first time. EXCITEMENT went through my body, I was so surprised. So of course I punched it, and went zoomin' around the yard. Then my brother wanted to ride, so I put it into neutral and let him take a stab at it, well he drove around for about 5 minutes it quit, so we went to start it again, and he accidentally snapped the pull start cable. But in the process it actually started, I wasn't going to let that ruin my time, so I tried to keep it running and I drove around and let him have another stab at riding it, but of course, he shifted down and it quit cause he didn't give it enough gas. So, we took off the coil and I re-raveled it and got it to the shape it needed to be in for it to correctly work.

After putting it back on, it started slipping, the coil that is. So I took it back off and did it again, to perfection. I put it back on, and it works now, as it should, but it leaves about a 4 inch dangling since it won't retract all the way, I'm okay with this as is.

Aggravated to no extent as i just want to ride and have a little fun! I continue trying to think of things to get it started, I bought a brand new spark plug, I tried pouring gas into where the spark plug goes, I tried cleaning the carburetor VERY thoroughly again. The floats looked and worked fine, as far as I could tell. Everything else seemed to be in working order, I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start at all.

Well, as I thought and worked around, a friend suggested possibly a compression issue? Why didn't I think of this earlier! Well, that's because I'm not good with automotive as I specified previously. So, I found my compression guage which I didn't even know I had. I tested the compression, it hit maybe 65PSI. Guess what the needed PSI is ? Yeah, a lot more than that, that's for sure. 142-170 at a minimum. So, now I know that's the problem.

But, again, I'm not mechanically intellectual. So, what makes the compression ? Well, I found out again from that same friend that I should replace the Piston rings and the Piston itself, and get brand new gaskets and what not. So, now that I hopefully found a fix for it. Being very unintelligent when it comes to automotive should I do this myself?

Should I buy the Piston and Piston rings, and the gasket kit and put it on myself, in hopes that it fixes the whole problem? This will cost me about 40 bucks, not a huge chunk, but I've already put quite a bit into it. On my income, that's a lot of money.

Is it fairly simple to do? Am I going to need knowledge to do this? Do you all really think this is what's wrong?

Please, answer my questions accordingly. I appreciate it so much. Thanks in advance to all of you. :)

I hope I didn't get off on the wrong foot by writing a whole novel, ;) I had a lot to say :)

--Brett

P.S. - Or, should I sell it in hopes of finding a better one that actually runs....?

[team-red-rider]

nice the first year atc!! pics: !!! anyways those little us 90s are the *Edited**Edited**Edited**Edited* lol relle easy to fix..

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nice the first year atc!! pics: !!! anyways those little us 90s are the *Edited**Edited**Edited**Edited* lol relle easy to fix..

I hope they are easy to fix :)

http://img252.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3wheeleran6.jpg

:)

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

ok nice! ok if u need help ive got a manual i can send u pictures from ok

[re-lapse]

ok nice! ok if u need help ive got a manual i can send u pictures from ok

Definitely that would be very helpful, and much appreciated! re-lapse@hotmail.com if you could send them there :D

Thanks!

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

actually heres the whole manual u can download.. http://3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=63088&highlight=atc+90+service+manual

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actually heres the whole manual u can download.. http://3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=63088&highlight=atc+90+service+manual

Wow. Thank you. I've been looking for a down loadable manual for like, ever now.

But it looks like there is only one for the 79-81, will that work for mine since it's a 70? Fairly same isn't it?

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

yep about 99% the same

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yep about 99% the same

Thank you SO much. I appreciate that alot!

Do you think I should go through with the piston and the gaskets and what not, to fix my issue?

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

not yet................

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not yet................

Should I even purchase the Piston / Piston Rings & Gasket Kit? Or do you think there's something else wrong with it that's stopping the compression from being at it's requirement.

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

did u hold the throttle open while u tested the comp.?

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did u hold the throttle open while u tested the comp.?

no, I just put it where the spark plug was, and pulled it consistently, and I maxed the compression at like 70PSI

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

try it while holding it at WOT (wide open throttle) then it should be higher....does it burn oil?

[firefirefire90]

Lookin good dude!

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/7828/3wheeleran6.jpg

[tyman]

hey... don't get the piston.. you've gotta check your cylinder for any damage and if it is round, and get a size.. then see if it needs honed, and the same size piston put back in (new one ofcourse) or if it needs bored to the next size and an oversize piston put in... you can mess things up very fast if you don't know what your doing... it might not even be rings.. could be leaky valves... did it have any "rattle" noise while riding?? kind of a ting-y echo???

definitely wait before attacking it... you could probably handle it yourself.. but why take the chance?

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try it while holding it at WOT (wide open throttle) then it should be higher....does it burn oil?

k. I'll try that tomorrow and see if it's any higher. No it doesn't burn oil, clean as ever.

--Brett

[re-lapse]

hey... don't get the piston.. you've gotta check your cylinder for any damage and if it is round, and get a size.. then see if it needs honed, and the same size piston put back in (new one ofcourse) or if it needs bored to the next size and an oversize piston put in... you can mess things up very fast if you don't know what your doing... it might not even be rings.. could be leaky valves... did it have any "rattle" noise while riding?? kind of a ting-y echo???

definitely wait before attacking it... you could probably handle it yourself.. but why take the chance?

Hmm... it's a 50mm, and that's the size of piston Im getting, (if I do end up purchasing it). Uhm, no it didn't rattle while riding.

I'll wait, to see if any of the information here, helps out.

The guy who owned it previously, said that it shouldn't be higher than 70PSI.. and the manual that I've found says 142-170 :S

--Brett

[re-lapse]

Lookin good dude!

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/7828/3wheeleran6.jpg


Thanks!

I did try the [img] code, but it didn't seem to work, maybe i shouldn't use cap's. Hmm...

:)

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

ok yea probly just cuz u didnt hold the throttle over then!! and the carb is probly just gummy if u need ill trade u a newer 110 carb (theyre the same) hats like new for your older carb ?

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ok yea probly just cuz u didnt hold the throttle over then!! and the carb is probly just gummy if u need ill trade u a newer 110 carb (theyre the same) hats like new for your older carb ?

The carb is fine, it's been cleaned inside and out, it's in perfect condition, but thanks for the offer.

--Brett

P.S. it's the jetting and idle tuning that I"m having trouble with, on the carburetor, but now that I got the manual that'll make it easier.

[team-red-rider]

well the jetting if stock shouldnt effect it! its probly clogged up!

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well the jetting if stock shouldnt effect it! its probly clogged up!

Well, like I said, I adjusted it to try and get it to run correctly, so it's not at stock setting. But it shouldn't effect the starting, in this fashion, let alone the compression. But no, it's not clogged, I've cleaned it inside and out, with a toothbrush, in gas, and used carb cleaner on the smaller parts.

it's clean as a whistle.

--Brett

[team-red-rider]

ok yea but hold the throttle open when taking a comp. reading always...

[tyman]

we believe you when you say you cleaned it.. but did you look though the jets to see if they were clean?? i cleaned my carb when i got my 200x and it was nice and clean.. i ran it around ~ 5 or 6 minutes and it shut off.. finally i cleaned the carb again and a piece of dirt got stick in the jet... i rinsed out the tank, and it hasn't shut off since....

[re-lapse]

ok yea but hold the throttle open when taking a comp. reading always...

k. I'll do that tomorrow, and see what I get for a compression. I had help last time so it'll be difficult but I'll figure something out, definitely. I'll give you the outcome of the compression when I figure it out with the open throttle.

Thanks for your assistance, anything else I should do? Also, if the compression doesn't get high enough, should I just go ahead and get the Piston and piston rings, and a gasket kit, just in case? Or should I just blow it off, because usually that's not an issue or something???

--Brett

Thanks again.

[re-lapse]

we believe you when you say you cleaned it.. but did you look though the jets to see if they were clean?? i cleaned my carb when i got my 200x and it was nice and clean.. i ran it around ~ 5 or 6 minutes and it shut off.. finally i cleaned the carb again and a piece of dirt got stick in the jet... i rinsed out the tank, and it hasn't shut off since....

Yep, the jets were probably one of the cleanest parts of it. The rest was just dirt and stuff clogged in corners, but everything. & I mean EVERYTHING, was cleaned.

I might buy a separate carburetor that's brand new, just in case though. Not right now, but I might.

Should I go ahead and purchase the piston, for safe keep if I need it?

--Brett

[tyman]

if it has power and doesn't burn oil.. i doubt i'd mess with it....

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if it has power and doesn't burn oil.. i doubt i'd mess with it....

k. The spark plug at times got black, and fowled out. But, after I cleaned the carburetor tip to bottom, it stopped fowling and now it's clean as a whistle after trying to start it and what not. I'm not sure after running it, since I can't get it running. I did get it started a couple days ago, and the spark plug wasn't black after it quit, but.. I dunno.

So, I'll just say no to the Piston for now. other than the full throttle compression test, what should I do if the compression test shows 140PSI, or what should I do if the compression test still shows 65PSI... and at either rate, what if it still wont' start, what should I check then?

--Brett

[uhlhazard]

When I test bikes and get low results, I pour transmission fluid into the cylinder. This is supposed to help you find out if the valves are leaking or if its the cylinder itself. Like when I say "pour" (err type) I really mean put about 6-10 cc's in it. Now try a wot compression test and check results. If the valves are leaking your compression won't go up but if its the cylinder it should boost the results by 25 percent or better. Also a sneaky trick to get a bike running if the rings are shot!

Personally from my vast experience in rebuilding atv's (3) lol All of my cylinders were "out of round" meaning it had deeper parts in the cylinder from something called "piston slap". Probably the most quotes I have used in one single post ever.

Anyhow I had to oversize it from stock to 2nd over by paying a machine shop 60 bucks to do the machining/honing. The pistons were $75 wsm pistons and the gasket kit was 30 all from ebay. I have been fortunate that the ones I have rebuilt didn't need valve seals because thats a major pain in the BUTT! Good luck with your 90, I am about to endeavour on a similar mission with an atc70 and atc110 and an atc125. Unfortunately Supreme Commander just released and is currently consuming my life (with 2 monitors no doubt). Good luck and let us know how it comes along.

P.S. Be a man and do it yourself!

[MTS]

Try adjusting your points, The 90 will run Literally till the piston comes apart in shards...Even with low...low...low compression, i have had my share of them.

[re-lapse]

When I test bikes and get low results, I pour transmission fluid into the cylinder. This is supposed to help you find out if the valves are leaking or if its the cylinder itself. Like when I say "pour" (err type) I really mean put about 6-10 cc's in it. Now try a wot compression test and check results. If the valves are leaking your compression won't go up but if its the cylinder it should boost the results by 25 percent or better. Also a sneaky trick to get a bike running if the rings are shot!

Personally from my vast experience in rebuilding atv's (3) lol All of my cylinders were "out of round" meaning it had deeper parts in the cylinder from something called "piston slap". Probably the most quotes I have used in one single post ever.

Anyhow I had to oversize it from stock to 2nd over by paying a machine shop 60 bucks to do the machining/honing. The pistons were $75 wsm pistons and the gasket kit was 30 all from ebay. I have been fortunate that the ones I have rebuilt didn't need valve seals because thats a major pain in the BUTT! Good luck with your 90, I am about to endeavour on a similar mission with an atc70 and atc110 and an atc125. Unfortunately Supreme Commander just released and is currently consuming my life (with 2 monitors no doubt). Good luck and let us know how it comes along.

P.S. Be a man and do it yourself!


Well, Well, Well... Some interesting information for a non-informed soul such as myself.

Alright, So, correct me if I'm wrong, the cylinder is where the spark plug goes, correct? (I'm not Motorcycle Savvy, by any means)

Also, if I pour it in there, and I get the results I'm looking for, what does that mean?

If I pour it in there and the results stay the same, what does that mean?

I have so many questions, and a lot of time. So, if anyone can help me out that would be appreciated. Until then, I'll probably have to be a :postwhore :D

Thanks though, I'll keep watching and testing these things, I will test these things tomorrow. Most of them anyway, because I have to start working on a wedding cake for my brothers Wedding :)

Anyway, I'll definitely keep you guys informed. Do you have any other answers to any of my questions or any other suggestions?

--:DBrett

[re-lapse]

Try adjusting your points, The 90 will run Literally till the piston comes apart in shards...Even with low...low...low compression, i have had my share of them.

How do I go about doing this?

Again, I'm very un-informed of automotive. Oh, I'll sum it up, I'm a newb. :)

:D

--Brett

[uhlhazard]

the cylinder is where the spark plug goes, correct?

LOL that would make a GREAT sig!

Wrong! The spark plug installs in the head which sits on top of the cylinder. Next to it are the intake and exhaust ports (on 4 strokes, I don't think 2 strokes have valves least none that I have played with do). Should you be a dummy like me and assume the person selling you the bike used the proper length sparkplug (or as the brits call it a "sparking plug") you will probably damage your intake valve and possibly even your exhaust valve in the process because it was too long and valves are mega hardened so your little fingernail cutters file won't do the trick in under 3 hours. Long story short, make sure you are using the right plug. You could just have a crappy plug or wrong type. Going by what WAS in there is a bad idea. Anyhow on to compression:

From what I have been told, transmission fluid builds compression in a fully functional cylinder temporarily. Some have even been so bold as to say you can screw up your engine using it. I have used it in probably every engine I had problems with and highly doubt you can cause damage.

Install lets say 10cc's which is like a quarter of an ounce i think*

God google rules http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-US&q=cc+in+an+ounce

*a 3rd of an ounce

into where your sparking plug goes (sips on tea and ponders what it's like to have small white teeth) then check compression.

Assuming you have 70 lbs originally you now run the above test, lets say still get 70-80lbs.

Now, you have your cylinder where the piston goes
you have your valves above the cylinder that open and close at a set interval and bring in or let out air for the cylinder
you have a "head gasket" that seals up the interface between the cylinder and head.

All of these can leak, I have never seen a leaky head gasket though on any air cooled engines that I have dealt with.

Also assuming your bike does NOT smoke WHATSOEVER you are either
a: out of oil to burn or
B: your valves and cylinder don't leak.
c: its just an incredibly small leak from all 3

Considering its older than god himself that wouldn't surprise me.

Now onto my long winded troubleshooting attempt.

When you put the transmission fluid in the cylinder (ooh something I forgot to mention, use automatic transmission fluid like dextron mercon not manual tranny fluid which I believe is basically 80ish weight gear oil) it coats the walls like mega.

When you crank on the bike, the tranny fluid basically seals off the piston walls so that it doesnt let any air past the piston into the engine this is called "blowby" and makes your pcv hose pissed and make your air filter all sooty. Doing so doesn't allow it to leak air and gets maximum compression.

NOW if the readings don't go up, the valves are probably leaking. By only putting in a bit of tranny fluid, its enough to go around the piston and coat the cylinder walls but not enough to coat the valve seats. If the readings kick ass, thats because the pistons rings arent doing their job stopping blowby into the engine and preventing oil from entering the cylinder passage to be burned off.

Now, if you managed to read and take anything from all that I contratulate you!

Ooh btw, if your ropes pretty long but you have 4 inches that slacks off, just cut the rest off and tie a new knot.

[re-lapse]

LOL that would make a GREAT sig!

Wrong! The spark plug installs in the head which sits on top of the cylinder. Next to it are the intake and exhaust ports (on 4 strokes, I don't think 2 strokes have valves least none that I have played with do). Should you be a dummy like me and assume the person selling you the bike used the proper length sparkplug (or as the brits call it a "sparking plug") you will probably damage your intake valve and possibly even your exhaust valve in the process because it was too long and valves are mega hardened so your little fingernail cutters file won't do the trick in under 3 hours. Long story short, make sure you are using the right plug. You could just have a crappy plug or wrong type. Going by what WAS in there is a bad idea. Anyhow on to compression:

From what I have been told, transmission fluid builds compression in a fully functional cylinder temporarily. Some have even been so bold as to say you can screw up your engine using it. I have used it in probably every engine I had problems with and highly doubt you can cause damage.

Install lets say 10cc's which is like a quarter of an ounce i think*

God google rules http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-US&q=cc+in+an+ounce

*a 3rd of an ounce

into where your sparking plug goes (sips on tea and ponders what it's like to have small white teeth) then check compression.

Assuming you have 70 lbs originally you now run the above test, lets say still get 70-80lbs.

Now, you have your cylinder where the piston goes
you have your valves above the cylinder that open and close at a set interval and bring in or let out air for the cylinder
you have a "head gasket" that seals up the interface between the cylinder and head.

All of these can leak, I have never seen a leaky head gasket though on any air cooled engines that I have dealt with.

Also assuming your bike does NOT smoke WHATSOEVER you are either
a: out of oil to burn or
B: your valves and cylinder don't leak.
c: its just an incredibly small leak from all 3

Considering its older than god himself that wouldn't surprise me.

Now onto my long winded troubleshooting attempt.

When you put the transmission fluid in the cylinder (ooh something I forgot to mention, use automatic transmission fluid like dextron mercon not manual tranny fluid which I believe is basically 80ish weight gear oil) it coats the walls like mega.

When you crank on the bike, the tranny fluid basically seals off the piston walls so that it doesnt let any air past the piston into the engine this is called "blowby" and makes your pcv hose pissed and make your air filter all sooty. Doing so doesn't allow it to leak air and gets maximum compression.

NOW if the readings don't go up, the valves are probably leaking. By only putting in a bit of tranny fluid, its enough to go around the piston and coat the cylinder walls but not enough to coat the valve seats. If the readings kick ass, thats because the pistons rings arent doing their job stopping blowby into the engine and preventing oil from entering the cylinder passage to be burned off.

Now, if you managed to read and take anything from all that I contratulate you!

Ooh btw, if your ropes pretty long but you have 4 inches that slacks off, just cut the rest off and tie a new knot.


That is the best post so far. Thank you for all your information, I understood every bit of it.

I will test it all, and give you feedback. I probably won't get to it til' at least Sunday at the earliest, since I have some work to do this weekend, elsewhere. But thanks anyways, I'll inform you of how it goes.

On the rope thing, I'll probably do that, or re-coil it tighter. Thanks !

Take care.

--Brett

[uhlhazard]

Since I've done recoil starters I have come to the conclusion that yamaha and polaris by far rule everyone elses designs. My atc70 you had to manually recoil that freaking metal thing EVERY TIME!

I have found 90lb test line at home depot, 50ft was about 10 bucks. I think its about 3/16 thick and was similar in thickness to the original rope. I basically wind the recoil starter up until it stops. Then I drop about 6-8 ft of rope on it. If its too much you can always just shorten it up but if its too long you have to start all over!

So far only one of my atc's used a recoil similar to my yamaha, it was on the atc125 and man does it look in great condition, even has a shiny 1-4N sticker on it for the shifter. Can't wait to hear your results! If you have to pull the head I can help you to see if your valves leak, pretty simple actually. Good luck!

[re-lapse]

Since I've done recoil starters I have come to the conclusion that yamaha and polaris by far rule everyone elses designs. My atc70 you had to manually recoil that freaking metal thing EVERY TIME!

I have found 90lb test line at home depot, 50ft was about 10 bucks. I think its about 3/16 thick and was similar in thickness to the original rope. I basically wind the recoil starter up until it stops. Then I drop about 6-8 ft of rope on it. If its too much you can always just shorten it up but if its too long you have to start all over!

So far only one of my atc's used a recoil similar to my yamaha, it was on the atc125 and man does it look in great condition, even has a shiny 1-4N sticker on it for the shifter. Can't wait to hear your results! If you have to pull the head I can help you to see if your valves leak, pretty simple actually. Good luck!

haha, yea I had to do the recoil manually, about 3 times. Same with my darn lawnmower :D

I'll definitely keep you informed on how it turns out, I want to eventually cherry it out, but right now I just want it to run :)

--Brett

[HondaNut]

I'm sure you're probably more interested in getting your trike running right now, but I notice that your rear hubs are inside out. The wheel offset is opposite of how they came. Your trike will be skinnier if you fix this. to fix it, you have to pull the wheels off and bolt the hub on the other sided of the tire's integral hub.

With your lower compression, the trike should still run. It will just have very little power and might not idle well.

When I resurrect an old small honda single, this is what I do:

1. Clean the carb and rod out the jets (I use a straightened staple).
2. Replace the plug and cap with new. (available at any honda dealer)
3. Clean and adjust the points (making sure you have consistent spark at the point gap and plug)
4. Check the tappet adjustments if I can't hear them clickity clacking once it fires up

If all that stuff is right and it still doesn't run, then you're probably going to need to work on the cylinder or head or both.

A honda engine can run on its last leg for a long time.

On a side note, I picked up a cherry honda CL-175 scrambler last year for peanuts because the guy who owned it couldn't figure out he shorted the wire to the points when he replaced them. So make sure you have good spark by pulling the plug and letting the metal sit against the head while you pull it. You should see a very definate and consistant couple of sparks with each pull.

Your symptoms suggest the following in order of most to least likely:

1. Bad spark
2. Not enough fuel (jets) or air (filter) or intake leak
3. misadjusted point gap or ignition timing
4. burnt valve seat from running too lean (loose intake)
5. shot rings

These are just my educated guesses.

[re-lapse]

I'm sure you're probably more interested in getting your trike running right now, but I notice that your rear hubs are inside out. The wheel offset is opposite of how they came. Your trike will be skinnier if you fix this. to fix it, you have to pull the wheels off and bolt the hub on the other sided of the tire's integral hub.

Really, I guess I wouldn't know. I'll have to take a look at that as well. It also doesn't have original handle bars, they are from a dirtbike. The previous owner did something with the original ones, I'm not sure what though.




With your lower compression, the trike should still run. It will just have very little power and might not idle well.

That's what I thought, but it doesn't even start up anymore.. it ran fine for about 20 minutes, at one point. But after the rope snapped, it hasn't started up and actually moved, since then. So, I'm suspecting something else is wrong.


When I resurrect an old small honda single, this is what I do:

1. Clean the carb and rod out the jets (I use a straightened staple).
2. Replace the plug and cap with new. (available at any honda dealer)
3. Clean and adjust the points (making sure you have consistent spark at the point gap and plug)
4. Check the tappet adjustments if I can't hear them clickity clacking once it fires up

If all that stuff is right and it still doesn't run, then you're probably going to need to work on the cylinder or head or both.

I cleaned the carburetor, I'll try the straightened staple to clean the jets. All I did was sprayed them out, with carb cleaner, hoping it worked.

I replaced the plug, but not the cap.

I'm not sure what you mean by adjust the points, or what "points" really are. But, I have consistent spark with both spark plugs, the old one, and the new one.

What's a "Tappet" Adjustment? I apologize, I'm not good at this stuff, I'm new to it all.. I just want to ride :( :P


A honda engine can run on its last leg for a long time.

This, I know. I own a 1996 Honda Accord LX 4 door, and it has almost 190,000 miles on it, 5 speed, and it runs like a dream, still. Only thing I've had to replace since I've had it.. is the radiator, but other then that, everything is golden. Aside from a few minor electrical issue's, which I'll fix in time.. I hope.


On a side note, I picked up a cherry honda CL-175 scrambler last year for peanuts because the guy who owned it couldn't figure out he shorted the wire to the points when he replaced them. So make sure you have good spark by pulling the plug and letting the metal sit against the head while you pull it. You should see a very definate and consistant couple of sparks with each pull.

Your symptoms suggest the following in order of most to least likely:

1. Bad spark
2. Not enough fuel (jets) or air (filter) or intake leak
3. misadjusted point gap or ignition timing
4. burnt valve seat from running too lean (loose intake)
5. shot rings

These are just my educated guesses.

Yeah, I do have good spark as far as I know, it sparks a teeny bit on every pull. Nice blue spark.

1. Good spark
2. How do I go about checking that other than cleaning the jets on the carburetor?
3. Again, I don't know what you mean by "points"
4. Hmm.. Could be.
5. That's my assumption. :S

Thanks, I hope you can continue to help me out here. Do you personally think I should try the open throttle compression test, and if that doesn't work, to put tranny fluid in there and try it again?

--Brett

Thanks again, much appreciated!

[uhlhazard]

Even without wot, 65lbs compression is a joke. Unfortunately one of the most expensive things is broken on your bike but thats how it works. Why do you think the previous owner sold it? basically since you have determined your low compression we just need to find out what is causing it. Bottom line: your not going to get the needed 50+ lbs of compression you need by messing with any electrical/carburation whatsoever. I have 16 atv's in my back yard and for the last year I have lived atv's. I am a pc tech with a few customers and enough income to keep my bills paid so I can spend all my time in the backyard with my brother or with the S.O. I'm off to bed its 4am. Good luck.

[re-lapse]

Even without wot, 65lbs compression is a joke. Unfortunately one of the most expensive things is broken on your bike but thats how it works. Why do you think the previous owner sold it? basically since you have determined your low compression we just need to find out what is causing it. Bottom line: your not going to get the needed 50+ lbs of compression you need by messing with any electrical/carburation whatsoever. I have 16 atv's in my back yard and for the last year I have lived atv's. I am a pc tech with a few customers and enough income to keep my bills paid so I can spend all my time in the backyard with my brother or with the S.O. I'm off to bed its 4am. Good luck.

That's true. The guy sold it, because he put it up for a year and didn't need it anymore. He has an Odyssey, 2 Dirtbikes, and 3 atv's..all racing quality, so he didn't really need this anymore. He's a good buddy of my brothers, and my brother was the one that actually purchased the bike, but I'm the one working on it and getting the information needed. So, technically, it's mine. He owes me money anyway ;). But, never the less.. I'm having mixed feelings here.. One person is telling me to put Transmission fluid into the cylinder and try and start it, one person is telling me to open throttle it and test the compression, a few friends are telling me to just take it to a Honda dealer and pay them to fix it to good condition (stupidest idea there), but then you're telling me that I was right, and it is the Pistons?

:wondering

I'm really confused here. Some directly blunt input would be appreciated.

Although I appreciate everything you guys tell me, never the less.

Take care.

Thanks in advance.

Yes, it is 4:30AM.. but I don't sleep, so yea'.. haha. :)

--Brett

[EDIT] You were the one that told me to do the Transmission fluid idea, eh?

Sorry.

I'll do the transmission thing. and the WOT Compression test. If neither of these do any good, I'll let you all know.

UNLESS told otherwise.

--Brett

[uhlhazard]

make it happen cappen. o you could just remove the carb from the equation. On the act110 that I am working on the one the spark plug did mean things to, I held my hand over the intake manifold while pulling the recoil starter and felt it both suck and BLOW air in and out. This was the dead giveaway as to why it had such low compression. So I gotta buy a new intake valve. They (the intake valves) are bigger in diameter and that is why it died and the exhaust valve didn't. My atc70 probably has the same exact problems. Not that I think thats your problem I just like tangents! Hey at least your bike has a freaking gas tank.

Now if only someone could tell me why my simple install of server 2k3 makes my raid mirror require a rebuild on every stupid restart I would be able to go outside and play with MY bikes!

[re-lapse]

make it happen cappen. o you could just remove the carb from the equation. On the act110 that I am working on the one the spark plug did mean things to, I held my hand over the intake manifold while pulling the recoil starter and felt it both suck and BLOW air in and out. This was the dead giveaway as to why it had such low compression. So I gotta buy a new intake valve. They (the intake valves) are bigger in diameter and that is why it died and the exhaust valve didn't. My atc70 probably has the same exact problems. Not that I think thats your problem I just like tangents! Hey at least your bike has a freaking gas tank.

Now if only someone could tell me why my simple install of server 2k3 makes my raid mirror require a rebuild on every stupid restart I would be able to go outside and play with MY bikes!

Interesting. I have plans of working on it tomorrow, and I'll update you on the progress of it.

Now onto your issue with your Server 2k3. I suggest that it's a virus called 'Windows' the symptoms are exactly what you said, and the fix is called 'Linux' :)

--Brett

[re-lapse]

Well....

First things first.

I tested the compression rate with the throttle fully out and we got about 100.

Not bad from going from 70 with the throttle closed.

Then, I poured about 12cc's into it, ( a little more on accident ) and then I tried to test the compression again, we ended up getting about 142PSI. So, that's about the minimum. Therefor, it should start?

Well, so we put the sparkplug back in and were psyched about it, yay we might get to ride, right?.. Wrong.

As my brother and his girlfriend were standing there gaucking around, I decided to pull it. Nothing.

Then, I pulled again.

Nothing..

THen I pulled AGAIN.. KABOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!.. blue smoke out the bottom...
Shocked, we all looked around looking for a bomb or something... Nope, was just a hole in the exhaust. :lol:

So, now that I've ran these tests, what the _hell_ should I do now?

Thanks for the hole in the exhaust ! :D

--Brett

[re-lapse]

Bump Bump Bump Bump :postwhore