PDA

View Full Version : 250R Swingarm Parts and carb



Rustytinhorn
01-31-2007, 08:57 PM
I just got an '85 250r and I need some info. First: the swingarm is really loose where it bolts onto the frame. Does honda still sell the parts to rebuild the bushings or whatevers in the pivot?
Second: My main jet is a 146 i think(will have to check again). What is the "normal" or "average" size. It was running real rough so I undid the air filter, bent the float so less gas enters the carb, and leaned out the needle to the leanest clip, but it still runs rough. Every time I pull the plug it is soaked with gas. It ran a little better leaned out, but not much. It idles fine, but it sputters under any accelleration and any constant speed. I'm not sure if its the carb or if I have a valve sticking. Also do the reeds make any difference?? I haven't any experience working on 2 strokes, only 4 strokes.
Thanks

SYKO
01-31-2007, 09:03 PM
you can get poly bushings for the swinger wick I have and work very well, they are on ebay and I think theres somebody on here that makes them as well, as for your carb, check your reeds as well. Im not sure what should be stock on there as all my carbs are bigger

Rustytinhorn
01-31-2007, 09:10 PM
I know where they are but I've never had to mess with reeds before. Would someone mind fillin me in as to what they do and what to look for??
Thanks

deathman53
01-31-2007, 09:56 PM
I use a pivot works kits for a 85-87 250r, it has everything you need. If you go oem, be prepared to spend double the pivot works kit.

Rustytinhorn
01-31-2007, 10:51 PM
Where would I get a pivot works kit??
Also my carb is one of the ones with the flat slide on it.

deathman53
01-31-2007, 11:28 PM
you can get one from www.rockymountainatv.com. The stock carb was a round slide, it may have been changed already, post of pic of it, we can tell you what carb it is.

Rustytinhorn
02-01-2007, 09:15 PM
<---Tryin to find out what my bike has on it....
What part do you measure on the carb to get its size?
Anyway here are some pics of my carb if you could tell me what it is? And the umm...slider...lol aftermarket performance part?? Also here is a pic of my reeds. I've never worked on 2 stroke before so I haven;t ever had to mess with reeds. They look to be in good shape, but the sit up off the housing slightly on the tips, just about a pin width. Is that normal, or a sign of wear?? Also what exactly is "ported"?? On each side of the reeds in the cylinder housing there is a hole drilled out? I tried to take a picture to show where I mean. Is that oem or "ported"??
Also here is my "FMF Gold Series Fatty" and FMF Silencer and aftermarket air intake. Could you size me up?? Is that thr right gear to have??
Also another question. when I reach my fingers in I can slightlymove my crank rod frod side to side and push the pistion up and down by hand until it starts to get Top dead center. I don;t know if thats normal on a 2 stroke or if I have worn crank gears or if I'm missin a bearing down lower. Keep in mind I had my reeds out to get my fingers in. But on the other hand it has lots of compression. I have to stand on the kick to get it started. Thanks for all your help. If I can get these things down then it would help a lot. I'm hopin to have the problem fixed in time to ride at the dunes this summer. Thanks again.

Heres my specs:
Main Jet: 142
Idle Jet: N/A
My Eleveation: 5280+
Carb size: Soon to know
Header: FMF Gold Series Fatty
Muffler :FMF Silencer
Some custom air intake that needs a new filter but I don;t know what it is.

oldsking86
02-01-2007, 09:17 PM
If the carb is a PJ 03a or something like that then it's a 34mm stocker most likely...

Rustytinhorn
02-01-2007, 09:18 PM
Here is a couple more pics.

deathman53
02-01-2007, 09:56 PM
that looks to be a 86-89 carb, flat slide, that is the carb you want. As for the rod play, some is good, its something like .07 of a inch thats the limit and you shouldn't be able to move the piston up and down at all, your crank bearings might be bad. I fyou move the piston from side to side and you see the crank moving, you need to rebuild your motor asap.

Rustytinhorn
02-01-2007, 10:25 PM
that looks to be a 86-89 carb, flat slide, that is the carb you want. As for the rod play, some is good, its something like .07 of a inch thats the limit and you shouldn't be able to move the piston up and down at all, your crank bearings might be bad. I fyou move the piston from side to side and you see the crank moving, you need to rebuild your motor asap.

Dang, ya because I can rotate the drive sprocket about a quarter turn before it starts to move the piston. Then the piston will move untilit starts compressing, then it gets to hard to push. And I can move it up and down (piston and rod together) with it in gear. Sounds like something connecting my crank rod and tranny is gone south.
Do you think my bearings are gone or all my gears are worn??
Sorry for the loose terminology, but it must be a main gear or bearing inside the crankcase because it doesn't matter what gear I am in it will do the same thing. The higher I shift the more play.
Any ideas as to what does this.
Where is my cdi run off of the crankcase?? What I am getting at is my bike runs real rough and I wonder if it is because I have so much play between the piston and tranny or crankcase or whatever that by the time the cdi unit gets a revolution in to produce my spark my piston isnt TDC ,that it is throwing my timing off.
In a nutshell- I need to know what the timing chain connects to. It is a rod that the crank rod connects to or ?????
Any ideas how much it costs to rebuild the bottom end????
Is it a D.I.Y. project?? <---(have gone through engines before but never trannys)
Thanks for the help.

deathman53
02-01-2007, 10:40 PM
there is no timing chain, the timing is done at the stator, hinson sells a adjustable timing counter-balance holder, thats the only change is timing you can have. Is your top end off?? That is really the only way to check the rod play and crank bearings. The transmittion will have nothing to do with to crank and such. Its hard to tell much without having the motor in your hands. If the top end and such is off, take out the motor, bring it to a shop and have them check it out. They can adivse you better on what is going on with it, its nearly impossible to do without having the motor infront of you.