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View Full Version : YTM200 AND YTM225DX project



uhlhazard
01-21-2007, 04:02 AM
Hey guys, wondering if anyone can help me solve this problem I am having with my 225dx. I also need to know if anyone can help me fix my transmission problems on my 200.

The 225 bike was purchased as parts with everything in unknown condition. We pulled the carb, cleaned the life out of it, cleaned the tank, installed a fuel filter, installed a new spark plug, cleaned the air filter and cranked it up. It does smoke and the exhaust to header section is damaged so basically its got no muffler. (got header and muffler on ebay shipped for a steal @ 20usd) We checked oils as well before cranking on it, drained the blackness and loaded up some good ol 20w50 supertech.


First off, the 225dx. Engine running, shift into first, throttle up, engine acts like going uphill, not straining just turning. You gun it a bit and it gives you a herniated disk in your t5-8 vertebra. (beast has some power) Shift gears, rinse, repeat. I was told this is caused by the centrifugal clutch. I don't know what a good/bad centrifugal clutch OR regular clutches look like when bad so I will do my best to describe, been raining all day outside so I can't get pictures yet.

The centrifugal clutch looks like there are 3 sets of "train tracks" grooved into the metal. I'm not sure what is considered "deep" but I have a hard time believing what I see is causing this slippage. We pulled apart my ytm200 and removed its brand new clutches and centrfugal clutches (purchased by the previous owner a month before I got it) to compare. The new centrifugal clutch was an aftermarket one "performance and whatnot" It has similar grooves (please note the 200 did not slip whatsoever, ran fine but a has different problems I will get to soon) and looked at the clutch and the 225's look a smidgen "thinner" than the 200 but I can't honestly tell them apart.

Anyhow haven't been able to test the 225 as of yet because the heads in the shop having exhaust header screws drilled out.

Now on to the 200. First gear clicks. I should say "clicked" because now the engine transmission is horrlbly pissed at me and is all bound up. Evidently first gear has a missing toothe. Well, tearing ass in the sand first few nights I got it running destroyed first gear to where it bound up the transmission, so I drove home in a hurry in 2nd gear. (i know this is about to get stupid) We went out the next night and I promised myself to take it easy and use 2nd gear only. Well that didn't last long and now the whole things locked up : ( . I want to know if its possible to
a: not split the case and just replace the broken gear.
B: split the case and replace the broken gear.
c: buy a new engine which would really make me sad.

I really want to know if I should just split the turd and see what I can make of it. Or just go buy a junkyard engine altogether. Finances are tight, my dad passed last year and now I am taking care of my little brother (just turned 15) im 22 trying to keep him on some wheels to keep him busy and out of trouble, possibly giving him an opportunity to find something to make a career out of.

Anyhow I'm done rambling!

WIkid500
01-21-2007, 11:26 AM
Well dude you came to the right place! http://www.3wheelerworld.com/SMYamaha.shtml

That is a link where you can download service manuals for both of your bikes. In there you will find the specs on your clutches, and how to adjust the secondary.

I don't know much about the 225, but it can't be that much different from the 200.

The service manual will show the specs on what is a good clutch, or a bad one. That will help you there.

On the 200 I would go with option (B) Split case, and replace broken gears ect. The service manual will also walk you through the process of tear down, and rebuild.

I think you can still get gears and stuff from www.bikebandit.com. Or some times they show up on ebay.

That should save you some money, and let you spend some time with your brother in the shop.

Oh yeah when you are taking the engine apart take pic's with a digital camera, the will help for when you forget.



Good luck.

edog
01-21-2007, 02:01 PM
PM sent.............

uhlhazard
01-21-2007, 02:35 PM
Cool man, I will try and get outside with my brother and get it torn down today, looks to be pretty sunny out. I will take lots of pics and post a few on forums to give you guys a better idea of what I am doing. I can't find many internal gears on bike bandit but I found some on temeculamotorsports, they do however want an arm and a leg for silly gears though. (like 70 bucks per)

I did purchase a manual from ebay from some idiot, turns out he plagarized the chiltons manual by scanning it into a massive pdf file with no searchable text or chapters or anything, pretty sad. I have been using that as my bible for adjusting the valves and stuff trying to get my 88 yfm225's up. (whole nother story on those bastards)

While I'm thinking about it, when you guys adjust valves on these bikes, ytm200/225 do you use a feeler guage? A mechanic friend of mine said he just adjusted the valves at tdc and removed all valve lash, said it made it idle like crap but run topside better. My feeler guage doesnt go as small as yamaha wants you to use, they get pretty close though so I just give it a bit more tightening and slap everything back together.

Okay enough rambling, I'm going outside (just looked at the thermometer outside ITS 71!!! been 35-40 last few days!!! get this stuff taken care of) My brother wants to know if anyone has any 87 trx250x parts. We have a bike that I bought last year for 250 quid and has a blown motor, its very ugly and most everything on it doesn't work including brakes, engine lower rod bering went out on top of it was smoking before that happened, so basically it needs crank, rod/bering, complete top end reworked, brakes, tons of stuff. Anyhow thanks for the info guys and thanks edog for the offer.

WIkid500
01-21-2007, 11:09 PM
I use a feeler gauge when I adjust valves. I set them to the tight side. .003 on exhaust, and .002 on the intake. To set it to tdc remove the plug next to the recoil, and there is a dash with a "T" above it; align it in the center of the circle.

uhlhazard
01-22-2007, 12:35 AM
Thanks for that, I set the intake to see which was noisier and sure enough that turds much quieter. Gonna hit the exhaust tomorrow. I took it for a test drive with my grandpas polaris basket case (gotta have a yamaha to tow the unreliable polaris back) project I have been working on. It's a 2 stroke 250 trailboss, things basically like driving a big trashcan, handles like a 500lb woman going up a mountain but if you can keep it going straight it HAULS MAJOR ASS! Man I love my quiet trimoto : ( Gonna get to splitting the case tomorrow, grandpa came over to pickup the rest of the polaris parts so we can get finished with it and get rid of that damn thing so I can focus on my sweet sweet ytm200K. Found out that my bike was originally deployed in the forestry service from the dealer.

uhlhazard
01-22-2007, 11:16 AM
I GOT PICTureS!:pics: Theres a pic of my backyard, a picture of my brother after I towed the polaris home another time, a picture of a badass frog that was outside a few days ago, not really sure how that stayed on the camera though, a picture of my centrifugal clutch drum and clutch itself, and a picture of our 2 trikes were trying ooh so despirately to fix. Should have the 225 running in a few days if everything goes our way.

Sure wouldve been cool to get a life insurance settlement instead of that camper though :mad: Anyone have any idea if I can possibly repair the centrifugal clutch or if it even looks bad?

edog
01-22-2007, 02:50 PM
Better pic's of the centrifugal clutch would help greatly?

uhlhazard
01-23-2007, 11:26 PM
I'm simultaneously learning bikes AND photography. :lol:

Got the head back from the shop, got one exhaust header bolt drilled out, 2nd one has to get an insert but the guy only charged me 60 bucks and if you have ever drilled a screw out you know he mistakenlyso that rules (1 hour) got a 1st over piston going into the machined cylinder so it should have the tinyest bite to it now. Going back together with evrything tomorrow hopefully (least if this rain lets up) and I found a motor on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YTM-200-Engine-Motor-033092_W0QQitemZ290074288073QQihZ019QQcategoryZ100 66QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was just wondering if a ytm200 @ 120psi is sufficient, my yfm225 tested yesterday is at 165. Thanks for the help man.

Also, I forgot to ask. Does anyone know if I can possibly install a 225 head/cylinder on my 200, would be like a bigbore kit right? Man that would rock.

edog
01-24-2007, 12:01 AM
Looks good to me.

Yamahauler
01-24-2007, 12:33 AM
as long as you cant catch a fingernail on the grooves in the housing parts, you should be good. Check the one way bearing, it should only let the center "race" spin counter clock-wise only but if it spins clockwise at all it must be replaced.

uhlhazard
01-24-2007, 02:03 PM
Theres definetly no fingernail catching but it is pretty grooved. I have a friend that replaced his, gonna have him look at mine and see if his was worse, said there was a lot of "galling" I believe is the word he used. I looked it up on wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling

I guess that makes sense. Yes the one way bering only goes counter clockwise, doesnt budge backwards. So if this is not the problem, then could it be the clutch? I looked at them, they don't look particularly worn down. Perhaps the springs have been weakened or something like that? Ooh well, guess I'll find out soon enough. Hopefully tonight! Wish me luck, well get some pictures of the finished 225 project.

thefox
01-24-2007, 04:11 PM
The motor on ebay is for a YTM200 (chain drive), you have a YTM200E (shaft drive). Top end parts and clutch side parts are interchangeable but the whole engine itself is not.

In order to put the 225 head on the 200 lower you would at least need to machine the cases because the cylinder on the 225 is bigger. You would also need to change the rods in order to gain the full displacement because the 225 rod has a longer.

As for the trany on the 200 you will have to split the case if it is infact a broken gear (and it sounds like it to me). If you are patient I bet you can find a used lower end or tranny reasonably priced.

Does your clutch only slip on take off or when ridding and you gas it?

traxxasx
01-24-2007, 10:36 PM
Your centrifical looks fine just like mine did when my clucth whet out i though it was toast because its really nothing on the "train tracks" im think your clutch plates are bad or worn and your catch plates are 2 get a new set and see what happens. Looks like water on the clutch and a bit dirty keep flushing ot with good oil.

uhlhazard
01-25-2007, 01:41 AM
The bike slips only on takeoff into each gear. I was hoping it was the clutches, also has been sitting a while so perhaps it was in a flood or some such. A new centrifugal clutch is hella expensive and hard to find.

Thanks for the info on the motor, I figure if I can find a cheap enough one even if it is wrong size 200/225 shaft/chain that I can still use lots of the internal parts, top end and perhaps even clutches.

On the subject of using the 225 (is it jug or cylinder or something else?) I just figured that I would use the 225 "jug" and head hoping for a bigger bore, not too worried about stroke because thats a bit more over my head than I'd like at the moment. I just see 67mm bore on a 200 and 70mm bore on a 225

3mm's r teh sh1zzl3 yo:( We use supertech 20W50 motor oil getting 5 qt's at a time for 9 bucks. Then we run 20W 50 atv oil for the first 5 hours, dump it and slap in some new oil again.

I will end up splitting the case once our 225 is done, today was hellaciously busy so we got everything back together but no chance to hear the beast run. Gotta get me a choke piece and cable, ours is stuck in the carb, dont know how to remove besides an extractor : (

Have you guys considered machining the axle and installing keys when the splines wear out? my axle is worn and I was thinking about slapping a few spot welds on the outside, so if I have to remove the hubs I'd just grind the spots off.
Just wondering about that, I'm full of questions.

I work on computers for a living, trying to get into mechanics. Cramped in my office.
Again thanks for everyones help, this is totally saving me time glad I came here.

uhlhazard
01-25-2007, 10:15 PM
(in Borat voice)

Great Victory!

High five!

The bike doesn't slip anymore, just hauls ass. Carb leaking gas so we robbed my 88 yfm225, well fix that when we get to that bridge. Idles like a champ and runs great with a 1st over bore. There are some pits in the cylinder but the machinist said we could hit 5th over and they would probably still be there.

Everything on it works but a peg backup nut is rusted through so we gotta weld it and his original carb needs mega rebuilding. Few parts here and there but overall its a good seemingly reliable machine. Put a good hour + on it tonight. Now for the hard part: fixing the ytm200.

p.s. Anyone got a choke plunger and cable? I actually just need the cable.

edog
01-25-2007, 11:09 PM
Pm Sent................

uhlhazard
02-25-2007, 07:01 AM
I just picked up a 1997 timberwolf that I want to drop this motor into my ytm200. I doubt its possible. I am also going to pickup a yfm350 that basically is a frame and an engine. I want to know if you guys think the 350 would fit in a 225dx trike and if so WHERE CAN I BUY A 225 DX TRIKE??? man that would rule :drool:

traxxasx
02-25-2007, 07:10 AM
I just picked up a 1997 timberwolf that I want to drop this motor into my ytm200. I doubt its possible. I am also going to pickup a yfm350 that basically is a frame and an engine. I want to know if you guys think the 350 would fit in a 225dx trike and if so WHERE CAN I BUY A 225 DX TRIKE??? man that would rule :drool:

ill sell ya the one in my sig for 600. Lol you come pick it up lol, great work though.

uhlhazard
02-25-2007, 07:22 AM
thanks but im a poor soul. Hopefully I can find one at the junkyard this weekend since I don't need a motor. I'd really like to just drop in a bigger motor on my ytm200 anyone have any ideas?

thefox
02-25-2007, 09:52 AM
The 350 and 250 quad motors do not "drop in" to a 225. I don't remember how much work is involved to get them there but I think someone was going to try it a while back.

As for the YTM200, there aren’t any bolt in motors that are bigger that I know of. I would bet the XT200 and BW200 engines bolt in and they would give you manual clutch which would be cool but unless it is the electric start version of the BW starting would be hard as the kick starter would not work so well.

uhlhazard
02-25-2007, 02:41 PM
Well that sucks. I looked and all of the motor mounts for the 250 which is really a 239 seem to line up visually. I didn't measure them though. I also visually inspected the location of the output shaft on the transmission and it too seems to line up. I was wondering if it fits should I also use the swingarm from the timberwolf, seems to add a good 4 inches to the length.

thefox
02-25-2007, 03:43 PM
Well that sucks. I looked and all of the motor mounts for the 250 which is really a 239 seem to line up visually. I didn't measure them though. I also visually inspected the location of the output shaft on the transmission and it too seems to line up. I was wondering if it fits should I also use the swingarm from the timberwolf, seems to add a good 4 inches to the length.

Try using the search option on the board. I don't mess with the 225 very much so maybe the 250 will bolt in.

uhlhazard
02-25-2007, 03:54 PM
Yeah I was up till 630 this morning searching these forums with few results. I'll screw around with it later. I sure hate to put this bike back together and not do SOME kind of hopping up to the engine. Trying to find a 10.25 piston on ebay.

I'd really like to put my brother in his place with my 200, hoping a simple high compression piston will do the trick against his 225dx!

You guys know if those expensive iridium spark plugs are worth a crap? I have no qualms hitting local autoparts and dropping 1.50 for a new d7ea every so often so if they only give you longevity then ill pass.

thefox
02-25-2007, 05:18 PM
Using the 10.25:1 piston, remove the air box lid, put a good air filter in, rejet, and you should be very competitive with the 225. Getting a performance pipe will help too but I don’t think the stock YTM200 pipe is all that bad, much better then the stock Honda 200 hardtail pipes. You won't blow him away but there is a bit of difference.

edog
02-25-2007, 05:21 PM
The 1987 Moto 4 250 should fit in it.

uhlhazard
02-25-2007, 06:57 PM
I'd like to keep the air system working as stock because we hit some very rough terrain and cross rivers/bayous/creeks regularly and the water can get pretty high. Are you saying the 250 motor would work on the dx or the 200 because that would be crazy.

Also I was going to ask you guys if you think the middle gear can be relocated off of the ytm200 onto a bigger motor assuming the mounts are the same. These motors seem pretty modular as far as everything goes. They are kinda like really expensive legos.

On a lighter note I just got a honda atc125 1983-4 from the original owner today for 100 bucks. has 100lbs of compression without wot (because I forgot) and no spark. The owner gave me everything but the kitchen sink along with it including the original invoice and paperwork on maintenence, I believe a service manual as well. Few extra gaskets and a spare new inner tube.

Looking foreward to driving today!

uhlhazard
02-26-2007, 03:51 AM
I got my new atc125 running!

100 bucks and all I had to do was drive across town and install a new spark plug!

Original owner gave me the factory service manual and all the stuff he got when he was in highschool they gave him with it. Got a 3 ring binder with honda writtin on it with the manual inside and some extra case gaskets. The tank is spot-on and so far everything (besides the rear brake assembly and exhaust stud) has come apart as if it was brand new. The engine puts out 150lbs of compression and runs absolutely excellent.

Old exhaust was pretty out of shape so I swapped it out with my poorly running atc125m. now I gotta find out how to remove the brake rotor from the (new) parts bike because it is basically siezed on the axle.

He last drove it 8 years ago in 1999 when he installed new tires all around. The thing flies, can't wait to drive it tomorrow afternoon!:beer

Got some pics:

zadch
07-30-2009, 05:09 PM
Does anyone have a Operators manual for the 200/200E?

MonroeMike
07-30-2009, 05:28 PM
Start a new thread in Trikesylvania, introduce yourself, with the make and model of your bike, ask questions there.

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4