View Full Version : do i need a grade 8 bolt?
3leggeddog
10-19-2006, 09:28 PM
well i pulled the r apart,and to my amazement i bent yet another bolt.i keep bending the one that goes through the top of the shock.at first we thought it was because it was stainless steel.so i replaced it with a stocker.bent that one.so i bought a brand new stock replacment,from honda.when i pulled it out,it was bent.WTF!should i put a grade 8 bolt form the hardware store in there?
anybody else bend these bolts?
Unclediezel
10-20-2006, 01:38 AM
no.....................................
It is a much stronger bolt, which instead of bending the bolt , you will break the mount. Either the shock is too stiff , or Its Bottomed out, Find out whats wrong before blaming the Bolt itself.
3leggeddog
10-20-2006, 05:34 PM
well i know i bottom it out every lap.but elka says that you should bottom out 2-3 times a lap,don't know exactly why,but they recommend it not be too stiff.i think the shock is doing it's job,don't know what else to do but buy a harder bolt.if i break the frame then we got real issues
Dirtcrasher
10-20-2006, 05:48 PM
well i know i bottom it out every lap.but elka says that you should bottom out 2-3 times a lap,don't know exactly why,but they recommend it not be too stiff.i think the shock is doing it's job,don't know what else to do but buy a harder bolt.if i break the frame then we got real issues
Did the Elka shock require a smaller diameter bolt that doesn't fit well in the frame ears with a smaller shock collar ID? Are the frame ears in good shape or are the egg shaped? Grade 8 is harder and less mallable than lower grades and may snap rather than bend. Sounds like you really beat the snot outta this ATC, I like it :naughty: If your gonna launch it this much can the bolt diameter be stepped up to 10 or 12mm while the shock collar is bored out and the upper frame mount reinforced? How far are you launching and are you a big guy....
I have a grade 8 in mine, your trike will break before that bolt does
3leggeddog
10-20-2006, 06:43 PM
i weigh about 170,and the biggest jump i hit is a 70' table top.i do beat the crap outta it.
the elka didn't require any different bolt.all the stock stuff bolts right up to it.the frame is fine,not wallowed out.the only thing that is damaged is the bolt.
84honda200s
10-20-2006, 06:48 PM
man i would use grade 8 bolt just to be safe. you may not need it but its still nice to have a bolt that will out last the shock its self. i use grade 8 bolts on everything
IrvSLedman
10-20-2006, 08:04 PM
Idk but grade 8 is hard as hell, and i would much rather be replacing bolts then repairing a frame.. lol Idk why it would be just bending them though you arnt that heavy. You must really be beating the Tar outta it.. mabe you could just take it easier??:lol:
Yamahondaman
10-20-2006, 08:08 PM
Idk but grade 8 is hard as hell, and i would much rather be replacing bolts then repairing a frame.. lol Idk why it would be just bending them though you arnt that heavy. You must really be beating the Tar outta it.. mabe you could just take it easier??:lol:
He CAN'T Take it Easy !!! this guy can RIDE !!!!! somebody needs to make him a 4130 Chromemolly Frame !!!!! HIT IT HARD AND........................
GIT IT RAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG... :beer
Derrick Adams
10-20-2006, 10:02 PM
I quickly bent my stainless bolt as well. I replaced it with the stocker and haven't checked it again since. I'll be tearing it down soon, so we'll see what mine looks like.
Yamahondaman
10-20-2006, 10:05 PM
"ARP" Bolt's are STRONG !!! the Race Car stuff
3leggeddog
10-20-2006, 11:11 PM
thanks ronnie!!
you guys know i can't take it easy,ride hard,or go home!!!
84honda200s
10-20-2006, 11:24 PM
ride it like its stolen man!! give em hell!! :beer
Unclediezel
10-20-2006, 11:33 PM
This is the "Chain Vs The weakest link" Scenario. Think of it as a 12" diameter Ship Anchor chain, with a broken link. If you fix the link with fishing line, the chain will only support what the Fishing line will hold, regardless of how heavy the chain is. Im not familiar with elka's, but the "Extended" travel still has to be "Centered".If you are running a Fully compressed shock at Rest position, its not going to compress any further when you need it to. The purpose for "Bottoming it" is to make sure the oil or "Filling" is evenly distributed and not just stuck at the bottom. If you put a bullet-proof bolt in the mix--You will trash the frame, or at least severely "EGG" the mounting holes.
Unclediezel
10-20-2006, 11:35 PM
Just really stupid question, but it needs to be asked,
Are the "Rebound Bumpers" in place?? Bottoming out is one thing, But "BAshing" the shock against its stops is something else.
3leggeddog
10-21-2006, 07:36 AM
by rebound bumpers you mena the bump stop on the bottom of the shock?if so,then yes it is in there.the bike handles very well,and i never notice like a hard bottoming.it actually feels really good.i know it bottoms every now and then.if i come up short on the table top,it bottoms,if i come up short on the up hill,it bottms.thats all to be expected.i just don't understand why the bolts are bending.i guess i'll buy another stocker,and try it
TimSr
10-21-2006, 04:19 PM
Go with the harder bolt or deal with bent ones. At least they arent breaking. You are simply pushing it to its limits, and there is no major malfunction going on. The shock is like new, and everything is working as it shoould. You are just going too high in the air before landing for your current bolt to handle.
The reason they told you it should bottom a few times each lap is not highly technical. Some butthead somewhere decided that the stiffer the shock, the better. I think it was the same guy who decided that every time you change your grips, or add a sticker you need to jet richer. This guy browses forums and spreads these rumours continuously!
Seriously, supsension should be setup up as light as possible for the best ride, without bottoming out all the time. If you bottom all the time, you are too light. If you NEVER bottom, you are too stiff. The concept behind longer travel is you can get away with running it lighter without bottoming out more. If you botton periodically, but not excessively, you are just right.
Yamahondaman
10-21-2006, 06:33 PM
thanks ronnie!!
you guys know i can't take it easy,ride hard,or go home!!!
i'll tell you what ..............
i'm gonna Make a 17-4 or a Nitronic-60 or a Inconell Bolt Just for you ......
if and when i get to it .................... you will NOT Bend it !!!!
and......................... GIT IT RAG !!!!!!!!! OTC !!!!!!!!
3leggeddog
10-21-2006, 08:04 PM
right on ronnie.your the man.i also need to order some of them ther nice fork caps.when i get to blinging this winter i'll give ya shout.
tim,thats exactly what they told me.bottoming every once in awhile is ok.you don't want it too stiff.as far as pushing the limits,i think i've come to grips with the fact my trike can't handle.i broke,well cracked something else this summer too.i started another thread about that.
deathman53
10-21-2006, 08:17 PM
I keep bending the same bolt, 4 stock ones, 3 stainless steel. I just replace it every 4 months. Now I am breaking the frame, first a break right near the head stay, now above the swinger gusset on the left side. I am gonna have the frame fixed and do the same to the other side, maybe then it won't break so easy. Next time the frame gets swtiched to another and the old frame gets fixed and sits in my storage till i might need it.
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