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View Full Version : YT60 Tri-Zinger, Two questions?



chewbacca
07-13-2006, 04:13 PM
1.)Have read in this forum that minimum compression pressure is 70 psi and mine is at 82 psi. Should I overhaul to get pressure up 100 or so? Having trouble starting.

2.)Can the reed valves be turned over for longer life?

Thanks

chewbacca
07-15-2006, 08:21 AM
OK now...these questions were not that difficult; were they?

TimSr
07-15-2006, 10:02 AM
If mininmum is 70, and you have 82, low compression is not causing hard starting. Reeds can and should be periodically flipped. The stock reeds will last a lifetime. Im almost positive Boysen still makes Power Reeds for this machine which do perform better than stock ones.

When we had most trouble starting it was due to fouling plugs from a clogged exhaust. Not much info to go on here, but when it wont start, (any machine) the first thing to do is put a clean plug in, and go from there.

Vealmonkey
07-15-2006, 11:18 AM
The reeds for the yt60 are the same reeds for the pw50. Also you can still get a "nationals pipe" from DG for the trizinger. The reeds and the pipe really wake a trizinger up. Another popular mod was "shaving the head" to help raise the compression ratio and adding power. Shaving the head is not a substitute for a worn out top end, but would be a nice addition to refreshing the piston, rings and rebore. I've been trying to find out exactly how much is to be shaved from the cylinder, but it seems that it is based mainly on the piston to head clearance. Just remember, if you make the compression high enough, you need to run a higher octane fuel. I'm sure some of the mathematical gurus' on here could tell how to determine and engines' compression ratio and how much material that should be shaved from the head to raise the compression ratio to a higher but still reasonable amount.

chewbacca
07-17-2006, 08:36 AM
Thanks guys...good suggestions. The exhaust is clean, the head to exhaust gasket is the open one and not the restrictive type. The plug is brand new. I am getting spark at the plug but she still will not fire. It ran fine up until last month when I removed the carb for cleaning and to replace all the carb cables. Throttle, starter and oil pump are all brand new from Yamaha. In addition to the plugs , cables and spark I also replaced the fuel cap, petcock and fuel line. Still will not start or even try to fire. Maybe something is wrong with the carb. I know the jets are clean. The starter jet in the bottom of the bowl was plugged but I ran a small wire and some Gumout through it and broke it free. Can someone tell me what grove my main needle is supposed to be set? Mine is set 3rd from the top. Is this too lean? The reason I say lean is because when I pull the plug to look at it, the plug is dry. My sons are driving me crazy with this thing because they have not been able to ride all summer and they are wanting me to take the old 12 gauge, double barrell to it both barrells at the same time. I, of course, am tempted to do this because I have never ever been stumped or buffaloed by a internal combustion engine of any type. By the way, I have flipped the reeds! HELP!!!!

Jason Hall
07-17-2006, 02:09 PM
I had a problem with one of my zinger's & It was the choke cable the entire time. It was broke In the middle & never opening the plunger In the carb.

chewbacca
07-17-2006, 03:59 PM
Yes Jason, that choke(starter) cable is fine and is brand new. I am starting to think it is the carburetor and have been looking for one. Yamaha wants $168.00 for a new one and I do not want to mess with any of the knock off Mikini junk. I have found several internet stores that sell new PW50 carbs which are identical to the Zingers and is made by Mikuni for Less than $80 but they are all out of stock....still searching though!

trimaster84
04-14-2011, 07:53 PM
need a little help, i have an 84 tri zinger and i cant get it running, it has gas, spark, and compresion, choke on or off and still nothing, ANY IDEAS?????????

dcreel
04-14-2011, 08:16 PM
Stupid question but do you have the start/run switch in the right position? Is there something to put your rear tether in the on position?