Tayorsturf
05-22-2006, 11:35 PM
Couple of questions here, first off its an 85 YTM 225 DRN.
Recap here, bike has always had trouble idling, if the choke was left up 1 it would run fine, slow down and stop, if choke stayed up it would still run and idle fine, if choke fell down would shut off, otherwise though bike ran pretty stong, no dead spots.
I started messing around with the idle screw, and I thought that was any easy fix untill next time I tried to start it, it wouldn't, so I backed out the screw 1/2 turn a time untill it started which it did eventually, went back in with it and it would just pinch the slide and lock the throttle.
Took the carb off, it was still clean from the last time I did it, and started messing around. It seems that the round slide the grove/dent that the idle screw goes into, only stays lined up to 3/4 throttle, if I go to wot the slide lifts too high and falls out the groove for the idle screw. Now I can't remember how it looked the first time I did it and the Clymers dosen't really help. No matter what I tried I wont stay in the groove.
Is the slide with throttle closed supposed to go all the way down?
I couldn 't keep the slide in the grove at all, kept getting trapped on top, So I backed the idle screw all the way out where the slide hits bottom and threw it back on, with out use of the the screw. To my surpise it started right up with choke on, but now cold idle is backfiring, but when hot is running pretty darn good with choke off like it should, but do hear occasional back fire though, Thinking it's running lean, plug looks ok, definitly not rich.
So without the option of the idle screw, whats the best way to get little more gas to the bike at idle? and accross the board?
Does screwing in or out the small needle give more gas?
What exactly does the air screw change? right now 2.5 turns out
thinking I'll lift the main needle up a notch and see how that goes.
Any help/ carb tips would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
Recap here, bike has always had trouble idling, if the choke was left up 1 it would run fine, slow down and stop, if choke stayed up it would still run and idle fine, if choke fell down would shut off, otherwise though bike ran pretty stong, no dead spots.
I started messing around with the idle screw, and I thought that was any easy fix untill next time I tried to start it, it wouldn't, so I backed out the screw 1/2 turn a time untill it started which it did eventually, went back in with it and it would just pinch the slide and lock the throttle.
Took the carb off, it was still clean from the last time I did it, and started messing around. It seems that the round slide the grove/dent that the idle screw goes into, only stays lined up to 3/4 throttle, if I go to wot the slide lifts too high and falls out the groove for the idle screw. Now I can't remember how it looked the first time I did it and the Clymers dosen't really help. No matter what I tried I wont stay in the groove.
Is the slide with throttle closed supposed to go all the way down?
I couldn 't keep the slide in the grove at all, kept getting trapped on top, So I backed the idle screw all the way out where the slide hits bottom and threw it back on, with out use of the the screw. To my surpise it started right up with choke on, but now cold idle is backfiring, but when hot is running pretty darn good with choke off like it should, but do hear occasional back fire though, Thinking it's running lean, plug looks ok, definitly not rich.
So without the option of the idle screw, whats the best way to get little more gas to the bike at idle? and accross the board?
Does screwing in or out the small needle give more gas?
What exactly does the air screw change? right now 2.5 turns out
thinking I'll lift the main needle up a notch and see how that goes.
Any help/ carb tips would be greatly appreciated, Thanks