Sudco manifold and Mikuni carb

[crackshot]

I won a bid on a Sudco maifold and Mikuni carb. I came in today.
I do not know what size it is. I measure intake I.D. and is 24mm.
Also, anyone have one of these manifolds? Seems like when its mounted that the carb sticks out to the side a litte more than stock carb that hugs the frame.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v22/zamphir/110carb2.jpg

[deathman53]

that looks alot like what is used on honda 50's

[WIkid500]

that looks alot like what is used on honda 50's



thats what I was thinking, or a trail 80 mini bike!

[crackshot]

It seems to be a bigger carb than the one on my daughters 110 and looks like the carb will bolt up to stock manifold. I will give it a try.
Her carb is shot and the poor kid wants to ride!

[Vealmonkey]

crackshot, you picked up an aftermarket intake and 24mm mikuni for a modified atc90\110. The carb does stick out farther to the side than a stock manifold so a larger carb can be used to flow more fuel and air. The intake manifold is larger than a stock 110. To get the full use of that intake, you would have to match the intake port on your head to the size of the port on the intake, you would have to use a die grinder or dremel tool. Go slowly in doing this is you try. You also have to enlarge the insulator gasket and the intake gaskets that you use. If you are not using a big bore piston and cam on a honda atc90\110, that manifold and carb will drown out a stock 110. You would have to rejet it down but you would lose alot of your bottom end of the 110. Those intakes were mostly used on 110s' that people held the throttle open alot, like racing or the dunes, they are not very good for tight trails. Good score. I was watching that auction myself but I ended up getting called out to help a buddy of mine who had broken down and didn't bid. If you can't use the manifold and carb combo, I would gladly buy it off you. Hopefully you have something nice to use it on. There was an article in a 1981 3 wheeling comparing intakes and the sudco finished#2, the PK Racing finished #1 as far as air flow numbers were concerned. About the biggest carb you can use on those is a 26mm. And you better be pushing about
180ccs' and head ported and cammed to the max for the 26mm. Great score.

[crackshot]

Thanks monkey for the info. My daughters engine is stock but having a hell of a time finding a stock carb so that is why I am going to this mikuni.

[Howdy]

I probably have a good carb for you. I am also interested in the one you just got. I have a modified motor here that needs more intake.
Howdy

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I was looking around one day on the forums and found a 134cc kit for the ATC 90. I have a ATC 90 engine with 110 bore, a clutch and everything to make it oil cooled. This engine I saw was identical to the one I have except it was a semi auto transmission. Any idea where it is on the forums, I would like to read about it some more and find where I can get a 134cc big bore. I plan on building a rocket of a US90. Does anyone know where I can find a clutch kit also, I have found kits for the 70's but nothing for the 90's.

[Vealmonkey]

Isn't your 90 auto shift? If you want to build a rocket, find yourself a cl90 or sl90 engine to start with. That way you get a kickstarter and a clutch and better plates and discs that will hold more power alot better than an auto shift. And if your in the rocket business, bore and stroke is the way to go. If you get yourself the sl90 cases, it will already have a better cam in it than the stock atc90 cam and it was pretty much the first hi performance cam for the atc90. You can pick up much larger cams from webcam or from powroll. Powroll will also sell you a nice little bore and stroke set up for the atc90 or the sl90 which uses pretty much the same cylinder and head set up. With a big bore and stroke 90 you want to relieve head and engine case pressures that come with a high revving 90, so you will want to vent them by installing a vent in your top cam adjustment cover and some type of vent on the engine cases. An extended dipstick vent is the best bet if you can find one or you will have to vent your engine case some other way, most likely by drilling and tapping and installing a vent. A bigger carb and an aftermarket intake are a must. Head work would be advised on a large bore and stroke engine. I know there is a guy in California that I have some info on, just don't have his name and address handy right now. With the cl90 of sl90 engine cases, you get rid of the hi/lo gearbox too, which is very nice. Then you can use convential front and rear sprockets and not worry about that power robbing hi maintenance hi/ lo gearbox assembly, a chronic weak point for a hi performance atc90. You'll probably need to score a nice aftermarket frame that is a little longer which helps handling and is way sturdier and safer than a stock frame. You will be tieing up some money in this adventure though and some time too. Building one of these old dinosaurs doesn't come cheap. They are a labor of love. If you are a glutton for punishment and have a good deal of spare cash, have fun. If money is a little tight, buy yourself a nice 200x. It was be about as fast as the tricked out 90 and have suspension and disc brakes. Whatever you decide have fun. Tricked out 90s were quite a little project when the parts were readily available, now they are true labors of love that will take you a fair amount of time to source the parts and have all the work done. Most of the people that did this kind of machine work are long out of the business, so just finding someone that will do your mods is a chore in itself. Do lots of research, you will be doing alot of the work yourself. And the real rocket atc90s, used high compression cb750 pistons with a ton of hand work and modding. So just imagine on cb750 piston where your stock 90 piston is now and that should give you some idea of what has to be done. Have fun.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I already have a motor with all the goodies except a 134cc big bore. I got the motor expecting to have just a manual clutch. I got it and discovered that yes it has an oil cooler system. I got it from a guy out west, maybe we are thinking of the same person. I have the motor mouunted to a US90 that I put away early in the summer. It moved great, just tough to get used to when riding and flipping between trikes. It has the extented dip stick and vent, I had the hole covered thinking it was for routing oil around when I did not have a cooler yet, now I know what its for. I have a monster carb and intake that came with it, it makes a stock 90 carb look tiny. I will get it set up 100 percent this winter and take it out and ride it like it was meant to be. It would be nice to build a motor up, I like the CB750 idea now to find a motor that I don't have to worry about.

[Vealmonkey]

We need to see some pics.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I have an identical carb along with a PK intake. What throttle cable should I use for it. It will be mounted to a heavily modified atc 90 motor. I see this is an old post but I have been looking high and low for any information on this combination.
Thanks

[Vealmonkey]

The stock cable should fit unless you have an aftermarket frame. If it is an aftermarket frame, then you are looking to atleast need a +3" cable is pretty much the norm. You could get them over the counter at one time quite easily, nowadays it's quite an uncommon find to run across one. You might end up having to use a throttle cable off another trike and solder the atc90 end piece onto the other cable. You need to do some measuring and some investigating. Also, unless your running a bigger piston and carb, this kind of setup won't run very well on a 110 or an overbored 90.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I tried this out today with the cable from my 1972 US90. My cable is longer than I need, I am able to move the slide about a quarter od the way. I do have an adjuster on the top of the carb and when I adjust it up I am able to get the slide to move halfway up. Am I suppose to have a different top for the cable to set in or do I need to find a different cable. I do see little about these carbs being mounted on atc 90's but alot of atc 110 have this carb. I read above in this post that it was being planned to be used on a 110 but that is about as far as the post got.
My motor has been modified, I have a manual clutch conversion, BAPP oil cooler minus an oil cooler, vented head, and this PK intake with Mikuni Carb. I am not sure what size the engine is, I bought it from a guy who built it years ago. I was told it was running with this carb and then put away once ATC racing was over.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here are the pictures of the carb.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I am making a US90 hot rod conversion. I have a modded engine in a stock US90. I am not eliminating an early US90 from the world, I had several parts laying around to build a red US90. I want to make a US90 that looks stock but has a few updates. The updates being the forks from a larger trike with suspension and a built motor. What forks can be mounted with little modifications other than the grinding of the tabs. I can get forks from a ATC 250 Big Red but would like to know all my options. I read a post in another area of this site that said all the frames are the same but it was ATC 200s forks on a newer ATC90. Any info would be great.

[mgenest]

This started out as a 1977 atc 90. atc 185 front suspension forks and a kick ars GPX 177 motor...

[factoryX]

wow, that turned out great, how does it ride?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I believe your trike, mgenest, is the one that gave me the idea to do this. It looks awesome. Will the ATC 250 Big Red forks work, I am looking to mount these forks on my US90, need to know before I buy.

[mgenest]

The credit goes to Edog on this bike. I am just the proud owner of the completed project. Ask any questions you may have. If you do put these forks on you will need to put on a stearing stopper.

Good luck on your build.

[Vealmonkey]

Trizilla got the perfect forks for your us90. I sold him a set or rutt riders. That would be about the only period correct suspension for the us90. I hope you make sure that the stock frame is in pretty much perfect condition. They have a tendency to break. An aftermarket frame would be a better choice, but it is your trike. Be very careful with that stock frame.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Will a 1984 Big Red 250es axle, hub, and brake assembly fit a 1985 250es set of forks?

[Vealmonkey]

Sorry, can't help you there. I've never had any reason to mod any of those barges.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Is there a size difference between the atc90 and atc110 throttle cable lenght? I need a cable that is shorter in pulling.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

What is the front tire and axle assembly off of? I should have forks soon, 200s. I am going to try and build a bracket to work the the original US90 fender to give it a US90 look with a modern front end.

[SYKO]

I would use the complete front fork assy with the correct wheel and hub for that fork as well, I like the thought of a wider front tire on a 90 over the skinny one.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Another question, will the 200x and 250r front axle assembly mount in the 200s forks? I will try and get pictures posted in the next few days of the beginning trike.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here are the pictures of what I am starting with. As many of you know I built this out of spare parts I had sitting around. The blue fenders that are on it are for riding. I have a newer rear axle coming so I will be able to have more options for rear tires, I am thinking currently PW2. We need to think of a name to give it, GPX 177 is already taken. I will be sure to keep everyone updated as the build goes on. And yes that is a golf cart tire on the front.

[n10sivern]

Looks good. I'm almost done with my 1973 us90 build. Can you do me a favor? Can you post up close ups of the seat and the mounting in the rear. All I have left is the seat and dropping the motor back in but I'm having problems with the seat. How does it mount in the rear? I know the front mounts with the side plates but I can't figure out how the rear mounts. Thanks.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I believe you are asking how to mount the fender to the frame. The grab bar has a rubber piece on the sides of where it mounts to the frame. The rear fender has two C shaped hooks that will slide over the two rubber pieces. I know it can be hard, it takes me a few tries and I have been used to them for years.

[n10sivern]

Nah, I was talking about the rear of the seat to the fenders. It has the 2 plates up front with the bolts that secure the vinyl to the side of the fender but what secures the rear of the seat to the fender?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Ok, I know what you are asking. I have a Honda Shop Manual that dealers had. I found the page you would probably like to see. I will scan it and post it once I get the scanner working with this computer. For now I can explain it. There are two threaded studs that are mounted to the rear plate in the seat. It should use a 6mm nut to secure the seat to the fiberglass. If it is like most of the US90's in the world they are gone. They tend to not take much to break off when removing or remounting the seat. Anything else just ask. I should have the page scanned within an hour.

[n10sivern]

Thanks. I appreciate it. I have both front seat mounts but was clueless how the rear of the seat was attached to the fenders. If it is what I'm thinking I may take a strip of aluminum and quicksteel 2 bolts through it to do the rear attachment but I need to see your schematics first.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I am unable to get the scanner working tonight, I hope I can get it going tomorrow and post it. From what I read you know what it suppose to be there.

[n10sivern]

More of an educated guess than knowing

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I will be updating my build posts today with pictures, I have added a seat, 6 pack rack, different front wheel for better handling when I need a ride, and I have an oil cooler that just needs mounting.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I read on here that a CT90 sprocket will work on an axle, has anyone done this? I can get a 40 tooth. I plan on using 20 inch tall tires on it, currently I have 18 inch on it now. Will I have enough power with 22 inch tires when I decide to use my Pro Wedge 2's on it?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Been reading the forums and looking at options. I will get the pictures of the motor up today. With the cb750 conversion, do I just need to locate a piston and cylinder or do I need a head also? I have an extra 90 motor sitting in the shed that if I can build a rocket I would use that one. I don't have access to machines currently but could a Dremel be used for this. I am thinking ahead to the summer when I have nothing to do, just getting all my parts in order along with my plan.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is the motor.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is the motor.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is the motor.

[Vealmonkey]

Someone years ago did a manual clutch conversion on your trike. Very nice. Also you have a extended vented dipstick, also very desirable. A 134 bore will not make your 90 a rocket, but it will make it better. Shame you still have the hi/lo gearbox though, that is a very performance limiting factor there. Too bad you can't find yourself a cl90 engine and switch it over all the way so you could get rid of that hi/lo gearbox. I can't remember what piston gives you 134cc, but I know that you have to have a sleeve and you have to bore your piston out for the sleeve to be installed and you have to have the spigot, the spot where the cylinder slides into the engine cases enlarged for the bigger sleeve. You really have to look around to find the bigger bore pistons with the sleeve. I haven't seen one in awhile. The last sleeved big bore piston kit with a stroker crank, I snatched up on.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

This is a wicked motor. I had it out last night in the snow and it moves, the only thing limiting it was I only had 18 inch flat track knobbies on the rear that have more power than I ever ran them with before. I have a modern axle coming and I plan on putting a 40 tooth sprocket on it from a step through 90. I think for now I will keep it the way it is and once I have everything I need it will get the complete overhaul. It does leak a few drops of oil from the head cylinder gap so I willl need to take the top end off. Then I will find out what I do have in the top end.

I read on one of your post that a vented cam cover was needed, when I bought the motor I had a vented cam cover but I took it off to prevent dirt from going in. I am a bit lost on how to route the tubing, I know how to do the oil cooler through the head, just route it in and out for now, but do I need to put the cam cover back on and run a tube down the same with the vented dip stick. The dip stick says BAPP on the side, is the clutch set up a BAPP?

To eliminate the Hi Lo, would I need to do a complete tear down or can I switch covers. I have an old 90 motor from a CM91 or CT90 that is more of a boat anchor. The guy took the motor apart down to the last nut and bolt so I have alot of the internal parts.

[bandito90]

Nice build! I've got a 90 I'm in the process building now.You should try to get an aftermarket frame.There a tad bit longer and stronger.I'd also like to find one of the vented dipsticks.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

What type of 90 you building? A built up motor or a rebuild? I am looking for an aftermarket currently, I heard they require a longer throttle cable so that would be another part to locate. 3 wheelers always need something. The vented dip stick is nice but hard to check the oil with due to bumping the edge when checking and when you need to put some oil in you need to remove the whole unit and then put it back in without getting dirt in the motor while using a screwdriver.

[bandito90]

I'm building one with a bandito frame and a motor that has a bigbore and supposed to be stroked and have a cam.I got it off of vealmonkey.I do need a longer throttle cable.I need to update my post a bit,But am having trouble with photobucket.

[bandito90]

Heres a bandito frame on ebay.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290287603206&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us

[ParrotGreenUS90]

You have a big bore 90? Now I need one, I have no idea the bore of mine but I have to take off the head to replace a gasket. I will measure the width of the cylinder, its marked as 89cc but it has to be larger.

Vealmonkey, I read above a SL90 cam will gain performance. How will I know if I have one? Will the SL90 cam be better than the dratv.com cam for the 90's? I have the larger 24mm carb with a PK intake, do you know what cable I will need? I tried the US90 cable but it was too long.

[bandito90]

Mine has bigbore 3mm written on the engine.I'm not sure of the cc's though.What kind or should I say what did your carb come off of?We got mine to run with a pit bike carb on a powroll intake.I think it's going to be too small.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

My carb came with the motor when I bought it. I was sent a new brake cable as an extra goody. I wish he would have sent a throttle cable but hey I did not expect to get anything extra. I posted on another post what I have. It is a 24mm Mikuni with a PK intake. From what I have heard PK is the top intake and Powroll is below it. I just have the stock US90 carb on it now and it flies but last night it was sputtering, only carb I did not rebuild of all my 90's, so I need to either check the points or carb, I will do both. Vealmonkey should tell us what we need.

[bandito90]

I would like to make it a manual clutch sometime.

[SWIGIN]

Mine has bigbore 3mm written on the engine.I'm not sure of the cc's though.What kind or should I say what did your carb come off of?We got mine to run with a pit bike carb on a powroll intake.I think it's going to be too small.

i run a 200x carb on my built up 110 (its still 110cc) and i had to even jet it up to a 120 main.

i would try the same thing but it helps to have a 185 or 200 carb on hand since the the bowl it shorter then the 200x carb.

a 200x carb is 24mm and with a 185 bowl i got it to fit in the stock location on my 110.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Were you able to use the 110 throttle cable on the 24mm carb?

[SWIGIN]

i used a 200x throtle and cable since i HATE the little stamped steel units.

the 200x throttle is much smoother.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I wonder if my carb is a 200x carb. Can you look at the carb and tell me if it looks the same.

http://3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=52448&highlight=pk+intake

[SWIGIN]

thats a mikuni carb, honda used kehein (spelling?)

most old builds used mikuni carbs

[03 ORANGE SHEE]

nice 90.the manual clutch is very cool! here are a few pics from today. i thought i had it sold weeks ago, and the buyer backed out. mines a 73, un-restored.i just put it on craigslist two days ago in northern va.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

That is a nice 90 you have. Wish you were closer but if all 90's were closer I would have all of them.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I have located a cable for the 24mm Mikuni carb. I have a 185s throttle and throttle cable. Now I just need to install the carb, I should know in a few days how it performs.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I now have the front forks and have a wheel on the way. It should be put together within the next week but it all depends on shipping time.

[Vealmonkey]

What did you end up using?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

185s forks and a 250r wheel hub axle assembly.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I decided today to mount the carb. I was looking at the original with the tank on and cannot see it fitting. Has any tried this on a stock intake? I will try the PK intake later but that will be close in fitting.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I got a newer atc90 rear axle. I did the same rear end conversion a year ago and I do not recall needing a brake drum for it. What are the other brake drums I can use? I have a 1983 185s roller, will the rear drum work on the newer atc90 axle? The reason I ask is I have a set of new brakes and they work on several machines.

[n10sivern]

I know the brake pads works for just about all the Honda atc's with drum brakes. As far as the actual drum, I'm not sure if there are differences with splines on the drums. A 110 drum should work but I'd have to look at my 185 and see if the drum is the same. BTW, do you happen to have a spare sprocket or the sprocket cover that attaches to the sprocket and encloses the chain guard? I have one for a 110 that works on the later 90's but the axle with the sleeves from the earlier 90's is too big around and it doesn't fit.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I have no extra parts currently. I will see if the 185 drum is the same unless you find out before me.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Ok, the carb was mounted tonight, easier than I though. The PK intake allows me to use the stock frame. I should be out riding tomorrow afternoon.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I tried to start it today. It will pop and once it starts it revs way up and dies. I have enough fuel in the tank. What model is this carb? I would like to locate a carb kit to have. I will look more into it tonight, may check it out and spray some carb cleaner.

[SWIGIN]

parts kits do no good if the pasage ways are cloged....i doubt there is a kit for that carb. just clean it REAL good

contact sudco and get what you need

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I will give it a cleaning. It has not been used in awhile, just sitting inside the house. I see it is a Mikuni carb with a PK intake. Does Sudco still do the atc mods or parts?

[SWIGIN]

last time i called them they still sold all kinds of carbs and parts

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I gave it a cleaning last night. Now it drips from the overflow and just idles up and dies. I cleaned every thing inside and out with carb cleaner. I guess my next shot is to contact Sudco and see what they say. Before I do that does anyone have a carb kit or model number of this carb?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Just looking at options. What is the biggest carb I can use? I have a choice of 2 intakes, the stock one or the PK. I have been looking at the New Mikuni carbs along with old ATC carbs. The main problem is the bolt distance and the height of the carbs. One option I have been thinking of is a 185s carb as I have the throttle cable from one but would need dimensions to be sure it would fit. For now I will just stick with a stock 90 carb. Any information would be great.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Did some measuring of the carb. The inlet, air box side, is 40mm ID and 44mm OD, The intake side is 24mm ID. Maybe Vealmonkey can help. Is this a PK aftermarket setup?

[Tri-ZNate]

yes, PK was a larger diameter intake manifold and its an after market carb but I dont know if it was a kit. Sounds like you have an old school racer. post up some pics. I hope its not running the balloon tires still

[oscarmayer]

i think i just foudn the info you have been looking for.
http://www.sudco.com/

download the catologe
"Download v.34 Sudco Catalog here.
Available as a complete 38MB download only"
*make sure you "right click on the link" and select save as*

scroll down to page 67 and start there. i think one looks like yours only newer.

[Vealmonkey]

All the aftermarket intake manifolds like that were made to run larger carbs. Where it matters the most is what is the size of the holes where the intake meets the head. Sometimes you had to custom make a gasket and then do some grinding to match the 2 hole sizes. As far as the cable, if your old cable is really stretched out, then it won't lift the slide as high. Another problem you have to watch for is the cables get restricted when they curve over at the top of the carb. You might have to find a carb top that has a curved "pipe" for the throttle cable or you might have to make one from copper and braze it to the top of the carb to help the cable slide freely. The length of the cable isn't the problem it is wether or not the metal cable stretched out. Unless your cable is like 6 inches too long, it shouldn't be much of a factor. You are just going to have to be a little inventive. The parts for these trikes at one time were all over the counter, but those days are long past. A short curved copper tube on the top of the carb should also help take some of the slack out of the cable and hopefull cause it to lift the slide all the way, but there should be an adjuster on the top of that old carb cap that may do the same thing.

[oscarmayer]

sup veal!
well, we chatted on irc lastnight. he's using a 185s cable w/o issues. he's having problems locating a rebuild kit or even some thing that has parts for to replace the carb and not brake the bank.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I am using the 185s cable. I have located two pieces of information that have shown that this is a set. The PK catalog shows the identical carb and the pictures at the beginning of this post is identical. Oscar was saying you base a carb size on the dimensions of the airbox side of the carb, I have always thought it was the intake side that is the dimension of the carb. The 90 cable was too long by 3/8 inch but worked as it should on a 90 carb, and I located the 185 cable and it worked. I will get a intake measurment later today.

[Tri-ZNate]

I have always thought it was the intake side that is the dimension of the carb.

That is corrct, its a 24mm

[oscarmayer]

i was always traind it was the airbox side. weird. still 24mm on that tiny motor is a BIG carb.

[Dirtcrasher]

Suddco has every single part for that, BUT - You have to do the homework and give them the part numbers and they aren't cheap.

I spent 75$ on parts for my 28MM flatslide and they are 130$ new.........

So, I bought a brand new one too, F-IT!!

[SWIGIN]

That is corrct, its a 24mm

if you want to get more technical its the intake side but measured back at the slide.

you know how a stock 90/110 carb is smaller at the slide....that where you measure....but on most carbs the opening is straight so it dont realy matter.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I measured the head intake on the motor it is 20.74mm, hard to mesure with the frame above it but I got this measurement a few times in different locations. The PK intake is 23.59mm at the end that bolts to the head. The end that bolts to the carb is 23.90mm.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I did a little searching on Mikuni carbs today, Could this be a VM24? I can find carbs fairly close in the 24mm but they are spigot mount. This is the closest I can find but it is a 20mm.

http://www.nakabc.co.jp/english/motorcycle/cab.htm

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is all the threads combined in one thanks to Billy.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

How do I remove the brake assembly from the forks of a 185s?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is an update. I had to put it in the shed well another project took over in the garage. The carb has not leaked in over a week but the recoil broke. I have an extra that I will use to start it. I hope to have the front end off of the US90 and have the 185 forks on tomorrow. I will update with pics after I get it on.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Got it out last night and just needed to swap forks today. I now know where the steering stop needs to be ground off. I got them on as far as they would go down and have a jack under it taking all the fork weight. Sat on it and feels good, the 185 handle bars are in a good spot. I will post pictures tomorrow. I am going to do some grinding tonight.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is a picture of what it looks like with the 185s forks and 250r wheel.

[Vealmonkey]

I like the 185s forks on there, but I'm not liking the 250r front wheel. It's just a matter of preference, but to me it just doesn't fit looks wise and it really kills your fork travel. You will have that wheel bottom out on the underside of your fenders alot. Also I notice that you are still using the stock us90 axle. You should change to a later model 90 rear axle. The later model 90 axle should work with the current bearings and bearing carrier. It will give you a much sturdier axle and you won't have the axle sticking through your rear rims like that which will look nicer.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I plan on putting a 250r fender on the front when I locate one, it is almost complete but just needs the details. I have the newer axle for it. I did the axle conversion a year ago to another 90 and thought I used the us90 brake drum. I now am on the lookout for a 90 drum. I know the 185 brake pads are the same, will the 185 drum fit the 90 axle? I have other wheels that will go on the rear, for now it will get Kenda Vipers until I get a set of Fast Trekkers.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Figure I should send out an update on what is going on. I have a Nicholson frame on the way, should be here this weekend. I did the axle swap and put on the Kenda Vipers. The rear brake drum is off a 1983 185s. It has sat in the garage for a few weeks and fired right up. Still gets up and moves. I do need to locate an exhaust before going out in the dunes. My muffler is the remains of a us90 exhaust with a 1/2 inch snowblower muffler, it made a significant differences but not the best looking. I have read the crf 50 mufflers work on the 70 and 125, has any one tried this?

Here is a question for Veal, what has come about with the vented dip sticks? I was looking at old posts and was getting some information about what all needs to be done on hopping up a motor.

[Vealmonkey]

Sorry, I've dropped the ball on the vented dipsticks. I was suppose to send mine out to sblt500r to see if he could copy them. Been really crazy trying to get yt suspension trikes up and running.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I have a Nicholson frame and am unsure on how to mount the coil. Does it mount in the frame or the outside of the frame. The capacitor gets in the way when it is in the frame. Any information would be great.

[Vealmonkey]

Normally the coil would mount on the inside of the frame. If you have clearance problems, you may have to make spacers and mount on the outside of the frame.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I got it to fit on the inside, a little tweaking of the capacitor mount and its in. I should have pics of it tomorrow, it started to rain just now and its pushed in the garage. So much for being 65 and sunny.

[Vealmonkey]

Glad you got it in. The weather has been crazy here too. Rainy and upper
50s the past few days and going to be around 80 tomorrow. Be careful if you have to weld anything on that chromoly frame. Do you have the high frame or the low frame. The low frame sits the trike down around 2 1/2 inches closer to the ground. A racing frame I guess. What kind of front end are you running? Something interesting I hope.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I am changing frames with that built 90 I have been talking about on the forums. I think this is the lower frame, I have tires on the frame to roll it around and it looks to be about 6 inches off the ground, may be the look of a stretch frame. So you think I have a chromoly frame, nice.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I went to mount the brake assembly and noticed I am unable to get the chain tensioner to work. I do have a mount of some form on the bottom of the tube, does that do something? I also am unsure of the exhaust is mounted properly. It seems to be curved outward at the bottom of the engine. I mounted it to the head and had the back end held up at the same time. I took off the foot pegs and that was the only way it would work, about 10 minutes of testing and removal of the pegs was the only choice. I then decided to see how close it would be and if I could shave or adapt the pegs to work, well the pegs just slid right in with about 1/4 inch of clearance. Any input would be great.

[Vealmonkey]

Okay, in the second picture, your chain tensioner adjuster is in the right place. You should just have screw that nut closer into the frame. Then you want to use a flat washer, then the adjuster, then another flat washer, then a lock washer and then another bolt. Then you should have it pretty much where you need it to be. Then you are going to have to place the wheel for the chain adjuster where you need it to be to have tension on the chain. It may take a couple of trial and error fittings, but you'll figure it out. Also you may want to look for an aftermarket chain tensioner for the 90/110. It would help alot more compared to the factory set up. I see your using an sl side cover on the clutch side, but it looks like you still have a regular atc90/110 engine as it looks like I see a hi/lo gearbox sticking out. You should find yourself a cl90 or sl90 so you can get a regular front sprocket and ditch that hi/lo gearbox setup. They don't take power very well. Let alone kill alot of your gearing optiions. I think this picture shows an aftermarket chain tensioner. The second picture show's the chain tensioner, but doesn't show it real well. I'll have to get some pics of it better and post them up for you. Basically you have 2 arms that come of the central shaft, and at the end of each arm is basically a roller skate wheel and tension is held by a spring that pulls the 2 arms into each other and keeps tension on the chain. No adjusting really but removing a chain link on occasion.

[bandito90]

Pat what size tires are on your 90?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Finally got a chance to post a reply, been busy with final exams all week. I did take the 90 out last night and got the adjuster to fit on the rear engine bolt. I originally read your post as doing it that way and just getting a longer bolt. I reread it and I see what you are saying, I will look into that tomorrow. I never thought of getting an aftermarket tensioner as I just had stock frames. I will be looking for one now. I hope to get it set tomorrow and gets pictures posted as a complete rider. I also got the front forks to have bump stops, I may drop down to the fat tire from the 185s to lower the front end and have two brakes. We'll see where it all heads.

Veal, how does the exhaust look, is it properly mounted? I am unsure if the cover is from an SL90 as it has no marking for oil levels, I have searched for bottom ends and I always see writing on the covers. Now that classes are over I can have time to work on the motor.

[Vealmonkey]

I'm not 100% sure if that frame is chromoly or not. I know mine is anodized chromoly with some of the anodizing worn off. I see alot of rust on yours and that is making me think steel frame. I also can't see enough of your exhaust to see if it's mounted correctly. Different pipes mounted different way. Also a close up picture would give me a better idea of what you are working with on the chain tensioner. Remember if you have a question and need to post a pic, try to make it a pic that is easy to see what you are talking about. Crop that last picture down to just show the chain tensioner. It may have 2 bolts on it now, but it's hard to tell with that picture. You gotta help out the people trying to help you out.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Here is it as of today. I still need to do a few small things, fuel line and oil cooler lines to then be ready to ride.

Veal, how does the exhaust look? Did I do it correctly?

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Took it for its first ride with an aftermarket frame and exhaust. It definely has a different ride. It seems to keep the front tire on the ground more, it may be due to the fact I dropped down to a shorter tire. The exhaust has a nice bark to it. It no longer can be heard a block away.

[Vealmonkey]

The difference in keeping the front end down is the 3" or so longer frame. You need to get a different set of front forks, so you can get that front end lower to really have some fun with the trike. It will be unstable sliding through turns with that front end so high like that. You are definitely heading in the right direction though. You have just done alot to improve the safety of your ride and the quality of your ride. Keep up the good work.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I have a short 22x11x8 on the front. Should I drop to a 20 in the front? I had stock 90 forks on the front and it looked level but I wanted the look of the suspension. I never thought of a 90 being a drifter but once I think about it I do like to swing the rear end around. Once I locate the correct suspension I will make the change. I am liking the ride, can't wait to take it out and tear up some ground. What you think about the exhaust, does it look like I have it properly mounted? It looks odd to me as it is above the pegs. Glad you like my changes, I just wish I would have got a frame earlier.

[Vealmonkey]

I don't think the exhuast will go under the pegs with the us90 setup. Maybe if you changed to the late 90 footpegs, it would fit.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I mounted it without the pegs and that is where it ended up. I did not know if it looked correct so I figured I would ask. Is it a Bassani?

[Vealmonkey]

No, definitely not a bassani. It doesn't look like a hooker header, maybe an old S&S? I think an 81 atc 250r front end would fit that if you wanted to keep the wide tire and add a disc brake. You have to keep the wide tire for it though one way or the other. That 185s front end just doesn't look right. I may have an old aftermarket front end for you if you are interested.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I have not typed or done much with this 90. It has been giving me a hard time by sitting for a few days in the middle of the garage and deciding overnight, yeah it can't happen during the day when I am outside, to drain about a 3 foot circle of gas. Out it rolls into the driveway where I leave it for a few hours and does not drip. Any idea why it would decide to start dripping fuel, I have done nothing to carb other than I did change the short piece of fuel line and that was a week before it started this.

I am slowly getting the rest of the collection out. I have converted the Parrot Green 90 to modern axles and wheels. I'll get some pictures up this weekend.

[Vealmonkey]

Sometimes it doesn't take a very big grain of dirt or rust to get under the float shutoff valve and it will keep it unseated enough to let the fuel in the fuel lines cause the carb to overflow. Get out and ride that monster. Get some more pics posted up. Usually if I am not going to ride one of my 4 stroke trikes for awhile, I'll shut the petcock off and let it run till it runs out of gas. It helps keep the carb from getting crappy.

[ParrotGreenUS90]

Update, I took it out for a ride yesterday, either I forgot what it rode like or it needs a tuning. It needs slight throttle in order to idle, and when "stomping on it" it has has a lag for about a second, goes bog whomp and flies like a rocket. Does anyone recognize the exhaust I have? I took the tip off to see what is inside as it has some major pressure coming out. It will move taller grass about 10 feet behind the exhaust outlet. Am I to have an air restricter in it other than the mesh it has already? Is there anyone in West Michigan or any group of people headed up to Silver Lake for some riding? Whats the 90 population in Michigan?

[shortline10]

I took a look at your exhaust and its a bassani but its not the race version its more of a trail riding version and not as loud as the race version . I have both versions of the bassani if you need pics just let me know . The mikuni 24mm carbs in my experience are very temperamental carbs and at mid range sometimes they get a little hesitation in them . Some fine tuning would probably help .

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I could use a few pictures of how it mounts. Is it suppose to be right under the clutch cover. It touches and was tough to mount. You have tuned these carbs I read, I had a tough time initially getting the carb to work with this motor. I am unsure how much reading you did on this post but I had to turn out the idle 3/4 to 1 turn just to have it idle. Once I got a record of a minute of idling I would adjust the other screw which was about 1 turn. If this is similar to the standard Honda carbs, is the smaller screw set and the idle is to adjusted only? I'll get it out tonight and see what I can do.

[shortline10]

The smaller screw is the air screw and should be around 1 to 2 turns out in most cases . the large one is the idle screw . I didnt read the whole thread just the last couple . Usually you set the motor to idle as best you can and adjust the air screw by turning it clockwise till it runs a little rough and then back the air screw out till it starts to run a little rough again and find the happy medium between the 2 setting . Ride the trike and some times it might need a 1/4 turn in either direction to run smooth but also I hope you jetting is close or throw all I said out the window . Are you sure the carb is nice and clean and the very important seal is seating correctly were the main jet flows threw the float bowl area ?

[shortline10]

Ok here are some atc 90/110 aftermarket pipes Top one is a bassani trail riding version the same as yours I'm pretty sure ? The next one is the bassani race version , next is a supertrapp and last is a DG . Not sure why yours isnt fitting right . Possibly not fitting in the head correct or jut got bent out of shape some how .

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I got the carb tuned, the screws were way off. The small screw was out 3/4 but now at 1.5 and the idle was in 1 turn but now in close to 3 turns. I did not notice the picture of the exhaust until when I went to reread the tuning of the carb. Yes I have the top exhaust and I think I found the issue, the end has a very slight bend. It only touches on the clutch cover in maybe a 1/4 inch square on the outer edge of the metal L on the clutch cover. It looks like it has been used like that before as it is dented slightly.

[shortline10]

Glad to here you got the carb tuned . I noticed you said the trike leaks gas sometimes . Do you have a petcock in line to shut off the gas while not riding ? Its kinda important because these old carbs like to leak while not in use .

[ParrotGreenUS90]

I took the exhaust off yesterday and gave it a paint job of grill paint. It says to heat up the grill to 650* or if this is for an exhuast mount and go. I mount it and got to thinking after driving to the front yard and realizing the band at the grab bar slid off and the exhaust seem to fit as I would think it should. Then I look at the band an realize it has over an 1/8 inch gap all around and the bent piece is between the two ends of the ring. Is this correct? It did start on the first pull today so I enjoyed not having a fight.