Bottom end rebuilders, need help please

[Ryah]

I've taken the plunge and decided to see if I could rebuild the bottom end myself. Those $1000+ take out engines aren't looking like such a bad idea when you buy all the replacement parts. But anyway, I've bought all the parts to do the rebuild so here it goes. I've taken everything apart and carefully labeled multipul boxes with pictures of where every part goes. I've attached pictures to show where I'm at. Based on the manual I should be able to get it apart at this point. Have I missed something. I've attached pictures of both sides at this point. I'm trying to keep things that don't need to be taken off to split the engine on at this point. So, if it can stay on, I'd like to keep it on. That being said, am I missing something here?

[RideRed250R]

iam not understanding what you want.... to hear... thw whole thing has to come apart EVERYTHING... you can keep the gears together.... you dont have to take them off the shaft and i wouldnt recommend that either... just replace everything you have bought for it... its probably also wize to have the rod rebuilt.. or upgrade to a 87-89 rod lenght.... i personaly love the short rod motors... but the 87-89 are GREAT motors if you start going wild.... (big bore cylinders) .. personally i would chooze a performance shop and give them both center cases and ask for them to put new bearing and seals in and trench it for stroke and bore the cases LOL.(you can still use your stock cylinder it just will have to be timing matched).. ... then hit up and get a 5 mill stroker and be dog gone happy... your R will wake up so much youll piss your paints..
Adam

[RideRed250R]

iam not understanding what you want.... to hear... thw whole thing has to come apart EVERYTHING... you can keep the gears together.... you dont have to take them off the shaft and i wouldnt recommend that either... just replace everything you have bought for it... its probably also wize to have the rod rebuilt.. or upgrade to a 87-89 rod lenght.... i personaly love the short rod motors... but the 87-89 are GREAT motors if you start going wild.... (big bore cylinders) .. personally i would chooze a performance shop and give them both center cases and ask for them to put new bearing and seals in and trench it for stroke and bore the cases LOL.(you can still use your stock cylinder it just will have to be timing matched).. ... then hit up and get a 5 mill stroker and be dog gone happy... your R will wake up so much youll piss your paints..
Adam

[Ryah]

Can I get the cases apart without removing the front bearing holder or what I believe is the shift cam mechanism on the other side? IE is there anything at this point keeping me from seperating the cases?

[Xowner]

is that a bolt right below your hand in the last picture?

[200x Basket]

look here for a complete rebuild that i did

http://www.3wheeler.org/vb/showthread.php?t=6218

[grundlegrabber]

You're gonna want to remove that counterbalancer cover on the left side, and I think you have to remove the shift cam mechanism on the left. Take everything apart. More parts off, but it will be easier in the end. Motion Pro makes a case splitter tool, never used it but it looks like it might make things easier. Sometimes the case can be tough to get apart. DO NOT try to pry between the case halves, you WILL damage the surface. Once the case is apart, be sure to closely inspect all the tranny gears and shift forks. I've seen lots of damage to trans gears and shift forks in 2 stroke bottom ends. To get the bearings out of the cases, once the cases are bare, put them in the oven and heat to 200-225 degrees. Take the case out and bang it down against a piece of wood, the bearings will drop out! Get the rod done for sure, and make sure you replace the counterbalancer bearings.

[TeamGeek6]

Can I get the cases apart without removing the front bearing holder or what I believe is the shift cam mechanism on the other side? IE is there anything at this point keeping me from seperating the cases?

You just took on a complicated job. Getting it apart is the easy part. Getting it back together without bending or binding something is the hard part.

Disassemble it by removing the LEFT side engine case, thats the side with the stator. The internal parts mount in the right side case.

Not needed to remove the left counterbalancer holder, but must remove the gears on the right side and remove the counterbalancer assembly. shift cam mech must come off to remove the right case,

The cases are held together by a lot of screws (3 in the counterbalancer bearing holder) and press fit on two crankshaft bearings.

Dont pry the cases apart with screwdrivers between the cases where the gasket is, there are 4 bosses molded into the cases for prying against, look around the case seam and youll find them, they are offset just a little.

[Ryah]

Update: I have an awsome engine shop by me (Q&E in Anaheim). I have to throw props where they are deserved. You can leave the outside shift mechanism as well as the kickstarter shaft in place. In fact leaving the shift cam bolted up keeps things from falling out/moving around when the case was split. After having the cases split, I was able to use a rubberband to keep the gears together. It looks like I'll have the ATC up and running as soon as a little cash flow comes into play. My old bearings feel good, but at this point $50.00 is looking like cheap insurance for new crank bearings. Turns out my old crank was junk, the bearing had a lot of side to side play as well as up and down play Got lucky, it didn't tear the bottom of the cases up. Looking forward to a few more trips before the season ends:Bounce