Tecate 3 1986 Piston Wear and bore help

[nd4speed]

The more I take this T3 apart the more expensive this project looks.

First off the piston has a brown spot under the rings centered on the intake side.
Looks worn on the machining marks around the circumference and halfway down the piston. Lots of carbon on top. The rings look sbout the same size diameter as piston and no good. The bore looks rusted and has lots hone scratches in it.

The compression is great (hard to kick or even push down by hand)- more than my LT250R ever had. It starts on the second kick and seemed to run fine but rich (plug wet too).

When I rebuilt my LT (+.020" bore worn to almost +.040") I dont remember the piston looking like that and I have never dealt with a Nikasil bore.

I couldn't get a pic of the bore but any opinions?

Also if I pull the top end will I have to remove the head? How do I disconnnect /reconnect the power valve actuator arm?

What do you think about the piston?

As always I appreciate any help you could provide. Here are links to pics:

http://home.att.net/~nd4speed/intake.JPG
http://home.att.net/~nd4speed/exhaust.JPG

Oh and here is a pic of my project:
http://home.att.net/~nd4speed/DISMANTLED.JPG

[3Razors]

The brown spot is nothing to worry about. The cylinder should never be honed because it is nikasil unless someone has sleeved it. That motor actually looks very good imo.

[RideRed250R]

in my opinion.... its time to re ring it.... the piston is fine no worries... but i would re ring it... mick the piston and barrel, if they are in the factory tolerences dont do anything re ring it and move on... yes the head has to come off to do the top end properly.... as for the PV i dont know..
adam

[nd4speed]

Well I agree about redoing the top end soon-:( (I just want to ride once.)

But should the Nikasil not look like chrome? and not rusty looking ever?

[TimSr]

You really need to take the top end off to check the bore. Youd have to be psychic to judge a cylinder or piston condition looking through the ports. Unless there are more pictures Im not seeing, you cant even see the cylnder walls, so I cant figure out how anybody can they they are, or are not a problem.

[3leggeddog]

i agree,pull the motor and disassemble it.better to put a few hundred bucks in it now,then finish the project,and have to pull the motor later.do right,do it once.i just relearned that with my 250r.

[3Razors]

A plated cylinder doesn't look like "chrome" like harley chrome. True the only way to be 100% is to mic the bore/piston. But if it has great compression and runs fine why are you taking it apart?

[3leggeddog]

good point 3 razors.if you don't want to spend hte money then leave it together.
but if you want peace on mind that it's right,and ready to rock,don't spare expenses,it will cost you one way or another.

hey razor,you gonna post some pics. of the sweet arse bike or what,lol!!!!!!!!!!

[3Razors]

When I try and post a pic it tells me the file size is too big. I could email a pic to you and maybe you could get it to work.

You have a HALLS porting. Is that Jerry Hall out of Glendale, AZ?

[3leggeddog]

no jason hall out of michigan.dude does awesome work.knows his stuff when it comes to 2 strokes!!!!!!!

well here's what you can do.go to photobucket.com.start a folder,it's free,and easy.then you download your pics. form the camera,to photobucket.once they are in yuor folder there,click on the img code,copy it,and come back here,and paste the link.pretty easy,and everyone can see your pics. full size.try that.if that don't work email them to me and i will do it.i wanna see that thing up close!!!!!!

3leggeddog@adelphia.net

[3Razors]

Ok 3leg thanks! I got it to work. Well here she comes

[Rex Karz]

The nut on the powervalve arm is left hand threads.......