Advantages/disadvantages to long rod?

[Dammit!]

That subject line... well make up your own jokes. :lol:

Anyway, when I tear the R down I'm thinking about maybe going with a long rod kit. Don't know anything about them though. The only other thing I would need would be a spacer under the cylinder right? What do they cost?

What are the pros and cons of doing this from a performance standpoint? More torque but lower revs or what?

Anything else that goes along with this mod that I should know about?

I don't use this trike for MX by the way. In fact I don't see myself using it for anything other than dunes anymore. I plan on putting a powervalved top end on it at some point as well.

[3Razors]

Lol! I was starting to think of some weird things!

Yes you said it right. The longer rod gives you more torque but sacrifices peak rpms. It not a big sacrifice, itll still have plenty of overrev. For duning i would say go with it! Or if you are a heavier rider too.

The spacer is cheap. Under $50

Honda switched to the long rod 250r motor in 87 because it was better suited for the quad application. Dammit since your in arizona, the man you need to talk to is Jerry Hall of Halls Precision. This guy knows his stuff and is a perfectionist especially with the 250r. He is in glendale too:)

[TeamGeek6]

It raises compression a little, and affects port timing. It also means losing 'squish' when the piston goes down.

[Dammit!]

Dammit since your in arizona, the man you need to talk to is Jerry Hall of Halls Precision. This guy knows his stuff and is a perfectionist especially with the 250r. He is in glendale too:)

I'll see if I can find a number for him (unless you have one). I called Crank Works today since they're highly recommended by Wiseco. They want $95 for the rod kit and $65 for labor. 2 week turn around though which is kinda sucky.


It raises compression a little, and affects port timing. It also means losing 'squish' when the piston goes down.

In english? :lol: I only need to know how that translates into how the bike runs and feels.

[TeamGeek6]

That is English. Im sure. I took it in skuul.

[Mr. Sandman]

In english? :lol: I only need to know how that translates into how the bike runs and feels.
Dammit, since you'll never get a straight or intelligent answer from TG6, check out this link for good squish band info.http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcrob/rt-fuel2.html

[KASEY]

OK ...if yopu go to a long rod you don't need a spacer,,,,,, you just go to the #562 piston,,, the only way you would need a spacer is if you use a short rod piston,,,,which is a #526 ,,,,, the reason alot of long rod guys use a spacer is because the short rod pistons go to .120 instead of .080 oversizes ,,,,, so you get a 3mm big bore ,,,, so if your cylinder is almost gone and you have a long rod,,, get a spacer and 2 more bores with a short rod piston,,,,,,,,,,

[3Razors]

It raises compression a little, and affects port timing. It also means losing 'squish' when the piston goes down.

That is what the spacer plate is for.

[3Razors]

I think you can get a complete new long rod crank for 160 on ebay?

[Dammit!]

My cylinder should be in good shape (I think I'm .030 over right now). I DO NOT want to get a new piston kit and bore right now. I have to do this as cheap as I can get away with without cutting corners in the bottom end.