got about 8 hours of straight riding in today... no pics though just questions

[monster 84r]

it was alot of dirt roads, all the az guys know of it as four peaks. it was great, except it pointed out a few things. the front and back end have play when im sitting on it, so id like to replace those bearings. how do you replace the carrier bearings and the front axle ones? the steering pulls to the right slightly, if im on asphalt, and let go of the bars, it slowly veers right. bearings?

i could use some tips on keeping my bike cool as well, during some long 1st gear trails she got a little hot.

also, my rear shock is feeling mushy, with almost no travel, how much would it cost to have it rebuilt? could i sub in a different shock?

thanks guys.

[Tri-ZNate]

1. if im on asphalt, and let go of the bars, it slowly veers right. bearings?
2.i could use some tips on keeping my bike cool as well, during some long 1st gear trails she got a little hot.
3. also, my rear shock is feeling mushy, with almost no travel, how much would it cost to have it rebuilt? could i sub in a different shock?



#1 could merely be your rear air pressure isnt the same. Pull a wheelie and see if it goes straight, if not check your air pressure.

#2 Get a watercooled head or one of the NOS heads like DG to help cool it.

As for #3 I know that WORKS rebuilds stock shocks and make new ones for the rider's weight and riding conditions.

[ATCWRENCH]

bearings are not hard at all, just a little time consuming.

this goes for both front and rear bearings.

front: 1:remove the nut on the end of the axle. 2:(sitting on the bike)remove the plate the holds the axle to the left fork. 3: turn you bars all the way to the right, wheel should kinda stay straight. 4: get a rubber dead blow hammer and hit the threaded end of the axle until it comes out.

5: straighten th ebars back up and roll the wheel/hub assembly out of the fork. 6: put a mark on the rim and the hub so you know how those 2 pieces go together. remove the hub from the rim. 7: lay the hub on end and get a flat blade screw driver and lightly pry up on the oil seal that sits on top of the bearings. flip over and repeat. 8: get a long drift punch and slide it through the hub till it hits the inside of the bearing you are wanting to remove.

9: move the punch around in a cross pattern in removal as not to get it in a jam. there should be a collar the sits inbetween the bearings, DONT LOSE THIS. if you dont have one, buy one or have one made. they are important. repeat bearing removal on the other side. 10: clean the hub up of all grease and grime. take a scuff pad to the bearing races and clean them up really good, it will help the new bearings go in and come out easier. 11: take one old bearing and grind down the whole out side race so it will fit inside the hub with no restrictions. once this is accomplished it can be used to drive in the new bearing.

12: apply a light amount of grease to the hub bearing race to help slide the new bearing in. set the new bearing in the race and slowly push in down in the hub as far as you can by hand keeping it even all the way around to prevent jamming the bearing. when you cant push it no more, grab the old ground down bearing and the rubber dead blow and finish slowly tapping it in until the bearing will not go any futher. it is seated all the way, install seal over bearing with bulged inner lip facing out.

13: flip the hub over and install the collar that goes inbetween the bearings. now install the other bearing and seal and you are finished installing the front bearings.

14: to install the hub just do all the steps of removal backwards. the axle nut should torqued down between 51-80lb-ft torque and the four nuts that hold the axle plate on shou be torqued down to 7-10lb-ft or torque.

rear axle on the next posting.

[ATCWRENCH]

rear axle

1: remove both wheel hubs from axle.

2: remove chain from sprocket.

3: on the brake side of the axle remove the two nuts that hold the brake hub on and the axle in the bearing carrier. remove the brake hub and axle should slide out from the sprocket side.

4: everything that was implied on the front hub for bearing removal/installation in the same for the rear.

5: when the axle is slid back in and the brake hub is installed the first nut needs to be torqued to 25-33lb-ft of torque and the outter nut needs to be torqued to 87-101lb-ft of torque.

when installing the axle nuts apply a bit of the weakest thread locker you can find. it will hold better than the nut by itself but it still be easy to break loose when need be. then wrap duct tape or electrical tape around the exposed threads to prevent thread damage the to further help the nuts from coming loose.

thread locker is a must on any atv, atc, dirt bike, anything that rattles needs thread locker.

[monster 84r]

thanks man, those directions are very thourough.(sp?) does the dg head help cooling substantialy? what about the liquid cooled head kit? are they pretty rare? ive only seen a select few, ever.

[ATCWRENCH]

the DG aircooled head has more surface area for cooling, ie. bigger fins, more material and just over all bigger than the factory head. as for the water cooled head, you will have better luck making your own than running across one.

[ATCWRENCH]

I forgot to mention that when you re-install the axle plate dont torque it down until the axle is at full torque. torque the plate hand tight, tighten the axle then torque the plate down.