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View Full Version : I finally bought my first trike! Now the bad news...



RoadRacer 831
12-21-2005, 08:22 PM
Well, I went and looked at this 85 SX last weekend. It looked to be in decent shape for 20 years old. No dents in the tank, no cracks in the plastic, new brake cables, forks have new seals and look straight, no tears in the seat. It wouldn't crank with the starter (even though he said he crunk it earlier that day) but he also said it had been sitting up for 2 years. It did crank after a few kicks though. Now for the test drive.
I shift into first and notice that my brakes are pulling all the way in to the handle. He says they need to be adjusted. No crap. Anyway, I pull it out onto the road and take it through all the gears. It shifts great, no problems. I don't hear any crunching in the rear end. Reverse works fine too, even though when it shifts from neutral to 1st or R it lurches and creeps in that direction because the brakes don't seem to be holding it due to the adjustment issue. It also seems to be idling high in neutral and then when I shift it from neutral it keeps that high idle for a few seconds which seems to contribute to the problem of not being able to hold it still. The left tire is pretty much flat, but again, he says it has sat up for a while. I have since aired the tire up but it is flat again in a day or two. The inside edge of the tire does not look like it is beaded against the rim... is this dryrot? The rims are a little bent in places on the edges, but they don't seem to be big enough to cause a tire problem. The only light that works is the neutral light. No headlight, taillight or reverse light.

It doesn't seem to need too much work (drain the gas, new tires, possibly new rims, new spark plug, maybe clean the carbs, see if the lights are blown or chase down the electrical problem), so I buy it.

Well, tonight I finally got a chance to get to work on it, and the first thing I decide to check is the rear end oil. The bolt is a little rounded off, so I pull the left tire and use an impact gun to get the plug out. As soon as it's off, water begins pouring onto the ground :cry: . I tilted it to the left and dumped as much of the water out as I could. It looks like 3 pieces to the bolt - the bolt itself, the O Ring and a washer device that holds the O ring and fits pretty much around the bolt. This washer is cracked, could that have let the water in? Should the washer be part of the bolt and has broken off?

I'm angry at myself for not checking that before I bought it, because the guy honestly may not have known about the problem.

Sorry this was so long but I don't even know where to start to try to fix this thing. Anybody else have this happen?

bigredhead
12-21-2005, 08:31 PM
I would not worry overly about it as long as the diff gears themselves are not all messed up.

Be aware that the bearings and seals may need replacing, and this can cost a bit.. 150 ish $ depending on your resources.

There may be water entering the swingarm to frame boot and working it's way thru the driveshaft seal check this.

An easy ( well somewhat ) way to remove the water from the swingarm is to remove the boot from the swingarm and jack the rear end of the bike to pour the water out.. then re-seal the boot with rubber cement and a good clamp.

Check your hubs and splines, make sure they are in good shape, as well as the swingarm bearings.

bigredhead
12-21-2005, 08:33 PM
oh.. and WELCOME TO THE SX CLAN !!!!

Once you work the bugs out of it and make it your own.. you will love it like a child !!!

ScottZJ
12-21-2005, 08:41 PM
Yeah check the rear bearings 100%. Cuz when you think they are ok, the grinding starts. If you can, pull the entire diff apart and clean it with some heavy duty parts cleaner. Then check all the bearings including the pilot bearing. If there is any slop at all, replace the bearings. Dads is on both this board and 3wheeler.org and has great prices with any bearing you will need.

The rear diff in pieces
http://www.fototime.com/{D3192E2D-5C18-4348-94BF-0C42D43EEA5D}/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{E372F76E-EED9-4C0F-B367-31BFDE13057E}/picture.JPG

danteross77
12-21-2005, 08:54 PM
My 250 sx had sat for 15 years. I got it when I was 14 and after my cousin was killed on his 125( He pulled out in front of a truck on a old country dirt road were a car passed about 3 times a day) I parked mine in my grandpa's barn in 1989. When he passed away in 2000 I picked it up and brought it home. The rear end would not even budge and it was covered in corrosion. I pushed it around my garage on 2 skateboards for several years. I finally got into it around 2003-4.
Buy yourself a manual and start pulling it apart, with alot of elbow grease you should be able to salvage alot of it, the rest you can buy on ebay pretty cheap. As for the carb buy a rebuild kit and clean real well, mine would not even move. With alot of time and cleaning and wd-40 and grease you should be back on the road, those bikes are tough. My rims were so rotten that the lips on the rims were gone. I bought a set of aluminum rims off of ebay for $30 a set. I beleive the were of a quad. just look for a 4/110 bolt pattern. But definetly buy a manual, will be the best $25 you will ever spend.

Tri-ZNate
12-21-2005, 09:02 PM
Mine seems to get water in the rear pretty easy but as long as you change the oil regularly you shouldn't have any problems. As for high idle the dirty carb and your idle screw are probably to blame.

Most likey the lights that arent working either have burnt bulbs or arent plugged in. Good luck and as bigredhead said WELOME TO THE SX CLAN!

N5HNY
12-21-2005, 11:30 PM
My Big Red had water in the differential too.

I think a lot of it was my fault. When I got it, the motor had been removed and I had washed the frame not thinking that I could get water in there. I thought the rear unit was completely sealed. WRONG !!

I drained mine and then flushed it with paint thinner. Just filled it , rolled it around,
and drained it a couple of times. I then filled it with gear oil, rolled it around, and then drained it. Did that twice also. I will ride it around a bit when I get it running and go through the routine again. I know it needs new seals and bearings. Will get to that when I can.

Get a carb kit as suggested.

A manual is a must. I got mine used off E-bay, but you can get them new if you look around. Get an"official" Honda shop manual.

I got my Big Red free as a basket case, but I see that I am going to have more money in this thing than I wanted. Be sure you like or even love these things before you sink money in them. But you should have a good trike when you finish.

Like was stated earlier, they are tough machines.

RoadRacer 831
12-22-2005, 12:33 AM
The guy gave me his Clymer manual with it (that should have been a sign, huh?!?!). I've looked at it a little and I think it'll be good enough to get it done. Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

N5HNY
12-22-2005, 12:46 AM
Hey. some kind of manual is better than none.

Oh yeah, on your lights, maybe you just have some blown bulbs.

I have messed with a lot of junk over the years. You rarely get a break on this stuff. No matter what it is, it will need extensive work somewhere.

I was trying to keep mine down to $250. Looks like that ain't gonna happen.
I'm at $225 and I might have to do the differential, it needs a missing side panel, a new font tire. A new rear brake cable is needed as well as a new seat cover. Might need foam too.

I still need to put my clutch cover on and rebuild my carb. I also have to paint my pipe and muffler. I ain't even fired it up yet. Gotta Love It !

RoadRacer 831
12-22-2005, 11:35 AM
anybody know where to get a carb rebuild kit at a good price?

ScottZJ
12-22-2005, 11:42 AM
Check ebay, I think they are like 15-20$

Howdy
12-22-2005, 01:47 PM
I would say that if the differential was full of water, then you should rebuild it before running to long. Water and bearings in a sealed unit sitting for a while isn't good. IMO
The last thing you want is to run it with rusty bearings and trash the gears! If this happens then you would need to replace the whole unit, and replacing the whole unit can be costly.
With rebuilding it you will know what you have: new bearings, seals, ect.

Scott can tell you that rebuilding them can be a P.I.T.A.. But there are many of us here that can help with information and or ability to do it.
Howdy

ScottZJ
12-22-2005, 02:46 PM
I have to agree with howdy. If you can afford to do all the bearings and maintaince now. It could probably last you another 20 years. Mind you its around 150-200 for every bearing in the big red/sx but might be well worth it. Once you do it, the trike is a new machine and will thank you many times over during those long rides.