Ok..so I broke the Brake Drum, what next?

[Whippenboy]

1981 185S Rear Brake Drum. So I soaked the axle w/PBBlaster and hit it with the hammer while pulling w/metal rod through two steel cables looped through the holes in the drum. After much yanking (and assorted #$@#%@#) I ended up cracking the aluminum drum. I've removed the drum, along with the rest of the aluminum, and Im left with a large hex shaped (the aluminum was "forged" around this) what I assume to be steel nut. I thought the drum slid onto splines in the axle and could be removed by pulling. I can post a picture of whats left, but I'm not sure on how to remove the hex "nut" as it seems to be part of the brake drum. Thanks for any help.

[freewheel3]

Post a pic, lets see what's left.

[Whippenboy]

Here is a picture of my problem

http://slug.ceca.utc.edu/docs/personal/axle.jpg

[freewheel3]

Ok, it's ugly now that there isn't much left to pull on.
First let me say that in 30 years of wrenching on things the only rust penetrant that I've seen that REALLY works ( and I've used them all) is some stuff called Aerokroil. It is made by Kano Laboratories out of Nashville, TN. Call them @ 615-833-4101 & either order direct from them or they'll tell you where you can pick it up locally. It never fails to amaze me, just give it some time to work. I've removed rusted, siezed exhaust studs from 50 Yr. old tractors with the help of this stuff. Ok, enough free advertising.
You've got 2 choices. First cover or tape up the axle brg. seal to protect it, though.
#1 Heat that hex nut up with a small torch, get it good & hot, heat it all the way around. You want to do this carefully but quickly so that you don't heat up the axle & have it expand as well. Then try prying it off using the backing plate & probably some kind of spacer as your fulcrum. Sometimes after a bit of heat, they will slide right off by hand. (Go get mom's oven mitts lol). If that doesn't work the first time, let it cool a bit, soak it in some kind of rust buster & then let it cool back to room temp. & try it again. Seems like as it cools off it sucks the penetrant in to help loosen it up. Try some gentle tapping on that hex periodically while it is cooling off.
#2 Using a small side grinder or a Dremel, cut through that hex down to the axle. Start @ the outer end & work your way towards the inside. If you can't cut all the way to the inside due to hitting that brg. seal, go as far as you can then use a good sharp chisel to split it the rest of the way. That should work. While you have it apart, unscrew your axle carrier bolts & make sure they aren't siezed up as well. (looks kinda rusty)
When you go to reassemble, make sure you grease up that spline so that 20 years from now you don't have to go through this again. I have had so much grief with siezed or rusted parts that I have made it a personal rule not to screw one nut or bolt back in w/o some kind of lube on the threads.
Lotsa luck & let us know how you made out.

[Whippenboy]

I live in Chattanooga, so there's a good chance to get the knoxville Antirust locally. I'll let you know how I do.

[Whippenboy]

Victory is mine!!! Two dremmel wheels, a drill bit, 3 lb hammer & chisel, a 1/2 can of PBBlaster, and 8 hours of hard work. I had to split it on both sides, but I've got it lose and the splines are intact on the axle. I'm happy.

http://slug.ceca.utc.edu/docs/personal/broke.jpg

Now all I need is another drum.....

[freewheel3]

Post it in the classifieds, Dennis Kirk has them for something like $140 last time I checked. I doubt Honda has them but you could check. Congrats.