Cam removal 1985 200x help

[Solid Snake]

Can I remove the cam with the engine still on the trike? Someone told me that if I remove the cam sprocket and hold the cam chain I can pull the cam out without taking off the cylinder head cover. Is this true? When I place it back in should the lobes be facing down and then line up the sprocket and stator mark? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[firefirefire90]

Why don't you try it and then tell us the result.

[Solid Snake]

I've never done it before so I'm kinda worried about messing something up. The guy that told me about that is not around here anymore so I can't ask for his help if I need it.

[firefirefire90]

Why do you need to do it anyway?

[jeswinehart]

Yes you can remove the headcap ( very top of the motor that has the vales in it ) and remove the sprocket then the cam.
A couple of tips ( buy a manual is the at the ver top of the list ).
1 - set the motor (piston) at "top dead center" on the compression stroke.
2- loosen the headcap bolts evenly starting from he center and working outwards in 2 or 3 steps.
3- stuff rags on both sides of the cam chain gear so as to not drop either one of those cam chain bolts down into the case ( it's really hard to shake them out with the motor upside down in your arms - or worse yet ,,,, tear the whole stinking motor aprt to retreive them )
4- tie a strong string around the cam chain when you get enough slack in it so it don't flop down in the bowels of the motor.
At that point you should be able to wiggle the cam out of there.

Reasembly ,,, reverse the above. seal the head cap mating sufaces with a sealent made for such purposes. you really should have a clymers. honda or suitable manual for going inside the motor cuz there is sevral little things to be aware of when doing so.

john

[bigredhead]

Once you remove the timing advance / rotor thing....

REMOVE THE LOCATING DOWEL FROM THE CAM AND PUT IT ASIDE !!!!! Unless it's stuck in there VERY well..... Do not let that thing fall into the bottom of the engine.

[jeswinehart]

oh yeah ,,, for about that "little " detail bigredhead.




john

[Solid Snake]

I need to pull it out because my timing is off, I had some guys work on the engine and they set the timing 180 degrees off. Thanks guys.

[firefirefire90]

You put the O, on top. Oh if i am wrong i am about to screw myself over. Am i right?

[R Nutt]

I need to pull it out because my timing is off, I had some guys work on the engine and they set the timing 180 degrees off. Thanks guys.


There is no such this as 180 degree off in a single cylinder!
they may have gotten it a tooth or two off but you can never get it 180 off, cause that would be where you want it, on either side of 360.

remember that your single cylinder 4 cycle fires on every upstroke (well a few degrees before TDC) it fires once on TDC compression resulting in combustion, it also fires once on TDC overlap resulting in wasted spark.

[Solid Snake]

I see, but anyways it is definately off a tooth or two because when I look through the timing "T" mark on the stator on the compression stroke the cam sprocket is definately pointing towards the ground but not completely towards the ground. I would say it's 2 teeth off, and that's why my trike is running like crap and is mad crazy hard to start. To fix this they moved the pulse rotor base around a few millimeters from the notches until they thought it was ok. I noticed that right away when I took the c.d.i. cover off.

Oh yeh I do have a Clymers now, and someone sent me a Honda shop manual, so it looks like I'm good to go.

[bigredhead]

You don't need to remove the head or cam to adjust the timing or to skip a tooth on the sproket....... just loosen the tensioner and the 2 screws that hold the top sproket on and pop it off the cam.. jump a tooth by working the links over one at a time and put it back together... Don't break that seal on the head cover if you don't have to.


Also.. don't forget to gap your rotor to spec. If it was played with and not adjusted with feeler gauges.. i bet it's off..

[Solid Snake]

Thanks for the tip bigredhead. I got a question though, the tensioner bolt...I know where that is under the rubber cap but is the one that I should loosen the 6mm Bolt that threads into the larger bottom one or the bottom one? Do I just loosen it and that's it? And when I go to tighten it apparently this is suppose to work itself with the engine running...the tensioner bolt I mean? Thanks.

[bigredhead]

ok.. the 8mm bolt.. leave it be.. don't bother with it.

Turn the 14mm bolt clockwise to loosen the chain.. and counter clock wise to tighten it.. it's oposite of what you would usualy think... the tensioner is spring loaded and counter clock wise alows the spring to push on the tensioner and tighten your chain.

[bigredhead]

oh.. about the 8mm bolt.. all it does it give you access to the tensioner when assembling the engine. You can remove it if you want.. nothing bad will happen.

[bigredhead]

oh .. more:

To adjust it once you are done working on the engine... fire it up... let it warm up.. and then turn the 14mm nut Counter clockwise to take up the slack in the chain and then clockwise something like 10-12 ftlbs .. got a torque wrench ? to set it to spec( Actually.. give me about 2 hrs and i'll quote the clymer for ya to make sure i got it rigth.. )

[bigredhead]

ANOTHER detail:

When you look the the T mark on the flywheel... you have to line up the bar next to it with the notch on the tranny casing.. not the T itself... .look carefully for that mark NEXT to the " T ".. kinda like " T l " or it might look like " l T "

EDIT : Btw .. i would have edited my original post and added all this info instead of replying 10 times... but i want to make sure he reads the updates i added.... LOL.. sorry guys.

[Solid Snake]

Got it, thanks man.

[bigredhead]

As per Clymer:

Page 50.. Cam Chain Tensioner Adjustment:

With time, the camshaft chain and guide will wear and develop slack. This will cause engine noise and if neglected too long will cause engine damage.

1. . set brake.. yadya...
2. start engine and let it reach normal operating temp.. shut off engine
3. Connect a portable tachometer
4. Remove ruber cap located behind cylinder on left side of crankcase
5. Restart engine and let it idle at 1400 rpm
6. Loosen the adjuster. The tensioner will automatically adjust to the correct tension.. retighten the adjuster bolt to 11-16 Ft.-Lb ( 11-16 N.m )
7. Install the rubber boot
8. turn off engine and disconect the tach.

You don't really need the tach.. 1400 is basically idle and a bit higher....

I was close.

[Solid Snake]

Man you have been a huge help. Unfortunately I won't be around home for a few days to actually work on it....damn. But these replies will definately come in great handy. Thanks for all your help guys.