So I'm running the new Amsoil 20w-50 synthetic for V-Twins..

[dblshockpower]

and my 200es's actually run excellent on it...quieter, and noticeably smoother shifts compaired to the Rotella 15w-40 (which wasn't all that bad either)...but $8.15 a quart!...good thing three qts. does both Big Reds.

another thing, I have a brand spanking new OEM carburetor and was wondering if it can just bolt up and go right out of the bag, or will it need adjustments?

[Dads]

The carb should be ready to go. Set to factory settings.
never hurts to double check while it's off.

[dblshockpower]

I sure hope so Dad..that bike just will not idle til she's red hot..then the rpm's are very erratic but otherwise runs out perfect...very confusing.

[Dads]

the only thing you can check is the pilot screw settings.
if your new carb is a PD 55A . Screw should be 1 7/8 turns out.

[Huffa]

I sure hope so Dad..that bike just will not idle til she's red hot..then the rpm's are very erratic but otherwise runs out perfect...very confusing.

If it is erractic like that you may have an air leak on front carb boot, clamps not tight, base & head gasket are a few spots to check. Spray some D-40 around when the it's running erratic, if at a certain area the engine "straightens out" for a few seconds you know that's where the leak is.

I have a 200ES that I am parting out so if you need anything, give me a shout.

Will be away for a week starting tonight so be patient if you do PM me.

[dblshockpower]

Good advice!, I did order the other rubber o-ring for the manifold too as I suspected a leak because the rubber seals were flattened and heat glazed when I replaced the carb with another used one this spring.

[bigredhead]

When you remove the slide from the top of the carb.. check the slant part that the idle screw pushes against.. if it's all scuffed up and rough the slide will stop in different positions everytime you hit the throttle and cause weird idle problems.

things to check.. ya know.