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View Full Version : What would cause this to wear out so quick?



Yamahauler
08-04-2005, 01:02 AM
My Tri-Z clutch, worked fine when I got it, pull wasn't too hard. It started to drag more and more and then finally didnt disengage at all.

I took it apart, reajusted the internal ajustment and then it worked good except for an extremly hard clutch pull, but then slowly started to drag worse and worse, and then finally, wouldnt disengage whatsoever

I took it apart, took out the ball and pushrod, the pushrod was majorly worn, the whole end was off (PIC), and the ball was marked up, the ajuster was bent and mashed at the end(PIC).

I replaced them with a better used ones, and filed the groves on the clutch basket and now I think it should work

but doesnt anyone know why the clutch pull would be so hard and why these parts wore out so quick?

TeamGeek6
08-04-2005, 12:37 PM
Look at the bend under a magnifing glass, that where the thread lead-out is and there might be a crack. A weak spot there might allow it to bend, and a bend might cause hard disengagement. The worn end is at the same angle as the bend, so its run like that a little while.

I assume either its run dry of oil and started grinding, or has been damaged maybe before you got it?

Are the clutch springs heavier than stock? That might overload the shaft.

ps The mechanical engineer looking over my shoulder says that shaft is a bad design, the end of the thread is in the middle of the span and that makes it weak.

Yamahauler
08-04-2005, 01:14 PM
Clutch springs are stock.
I think the threaded ajuster shaft may have been bent when I first took it apart and maybe it was ajusted to its limits and then since the shaft was bent, it caused the clutch pull to be hard and more wear on the other clutch parts.
Thats my theory.

TeamGeek6
08-04-2005, 01:18 PM
Yep, that theory works. That would be an easy part to make on a lathe. Might thread it then weld where the thread ends to prevent cracks from running. Any sharp edge is a source for cracks.

Yamahauler
08-04-2005, 01:25 PM
Ive got a spare threaded ajuster and linkage shaft so it should work I would think.

TimSr
08-04-2005, 03:41 PM
Ive got the orginal clutch in mine except for the disks, of course. My basket is worn pretty good now, though. I dont see any weakenesses in the design in my opinion. The most common reason it gets hard to pull is the clutch cable gets gummed up. Unhook it at both ends, and see how easily or how difficult the cable slides up and down within the sheath. I fill a rubber lever boot with WD40, and let it work down through the cable until it drips out the bottom of it. The other thing to check is the needle bearings in the pivot rod that goes into the case that your cable hooks to. My guess is that the part that bent did so because it was adjusted way to far in. It should be adjusted simply to take slop out of your cable and keep the other adjuster on the lever perch in its range. Screw the cable adjuster all the way in on the perch, and then turn the adjuster on the clutch until it makes contact, and back it out a little. Then use the cable adjudter on the perch to fine tune it.

This thread may help - http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=38799

LonesomeTriZ
08-04-2005, 04:02 PM
Mine has gone bad from over heating.

Yamahauler
08-04-2005, 06:59 PM
The cable is brand new, but I will check those bearings, I know which ones your talking about.