View Full Version : lil X resto started +more questions about resto
DIGGER DOG
02-05-2003, 08:57 PM
Ahhhh sigh of relief ytm 200 shift shaft installed without a hitch .
84 200X resto started .Questions, the cdi cover (spark gen.cover) that does get hot yes (stupid ques.)so regular rustolium paint will bubble and what not when it does get hot ,or will it not get that hot .??
motor paint got some auto motive 500 degree paint will it work and will the motor get over 500 degrees or should i get the 1200 degree paint that only comes in flat ,got the 500 degree stuff because it was gloss this stuff also has ceramic in it . thinking about getting some for frame because i think the reg.rustolium is gonna bubble around engine and exhaust.
sorry about all the stupid questions but this is my first resto.
thnx guys. oh yea I know your gonna say "powder coat frame and swing arm " I would but cant afford it ,gonna try the rattle can approach first just gonna do good prep,before hand. thnx again.
jeswinehart
02-05-2003, 09:45 PM
the stuff i used was PJ-1. i bought it at the honda dealer and it was labled engine + case paint. they had gloss and satin (i got the gloss).
about 7.50 a can and turned out sweet !
by the way,,, the temp rating on it was 500 degree.
the header will get well over that so i had to use that flat, ugly as all get out high temp paint on it (scratch's real easy too)
john
DIGGER DOG
02-05-2003, 10:47 PM
thanks John would you know about the cdi cover ...well this is pointless lol its on the motor so of course i would have to use a highg temp paint on it also, i just cant find silver hi temp paint may be ill try to find that pj-1 in silver. ill figger it out somtime may be ill just polish it but thyen again if i go polishing things ill go over board thnx John cracking is what im worried about with this paint especially if i plan on using it on the frame cracking and chipping off.
sean8231
02-06-2003, 01:02 AM
For the frame, I didnt have any trouble with normal paint, didnt need the hi-temp stuff.. The 500 degree will work fine on the motor, not the header, that needs 1200.. The most important part to avoid bubbling and chipping is to make sure you get all oil, grease, dirt, loose paint or whatever is on there cleaned off.. If you prep it good, the outcome will reflect that..
jeswinehart
02-06-2003, 08:08 AM
sean8231's info is 100% correct. i sand blasted my motor first.
john
DIGGER DOG
02-06-2003, 04:19 PM
thnx guys unfortunately i dont have a sand blaster so i will take my dremel,hand grinder,plain ole sand paper to the motor i have wire brush attachments for grinder and dremel the bad thing about the dremel is its time consuming but gets in tight places it will work well for the motor .im using it now to polish the cdi cover it takes a while but its looking better.
as for the frame im going to use a drill + hand grinder with the wire brush attachments then some hand sanding no primer just gonna paint it. hopefully that will work.
whiteman350x
02-06-2003, 04:35 PM
Hey Digger, There is a guy in Auburn that will blast and prime your frame pretty cheap. He did one for me. Looks good. Let me know if you want his #.
DIGGER DOG
02-06-2003, 05:48 PM
cool whiteman how much ya think itll be would prolly take me for ever to do it the way i thought about.
whiteman350x
02-06-2003, 08:58 PM
Prolly 50 to 70 bucks for frame and swingarm. He did a trx 250r for me for 65.
DIGGER DOG
02-07-2003, 07:15 PM
That sounds good but my problems now are $$$$$$ and tools I just spent $111.00 on a tourqe wrench ,18 in ratchet handle,some sanding stuff ,paint and im not gonna use the paint im gonna get pj1 HONDA red for the frame i figured i may as well prime it too still gonna use the 500 degree gloss black for motor and 1200 degree for head pipe and muffler.
what i need now are some axle nut wrenches the nuts are 45 mm and searsdont have the wrenches i need a metric conv. for that into SAE maybe they have the standard wrenches at least 45mm is what my caliper says?? then i need $$$$$ for parts need to get gasket for ki9cker cover and the cover behind that also need a mastercylender rebuild kit need to get the inner parts for thumb throttle $$$all plastics,head light al thats just from the top of my head prolly need more.gonna take a while :(
"Metric to SAE conversion" no offense but in my book that's a load of garbage, I've stripped out plenty of bolts/nuts that the two sizes are supposed to be the same, and they weren't...there was just enough slack to make it strip. Try to find the 45mm wrench before going to SAE with it.
DIGGER DOG
02-07-2003, 08:05 PM
yea that what im gonna do goku id rather do it right the first time I also have a ytm 200 the sprocket come off the carrier and i had to use a frikkin pipe wrench to get it off i tried first with a hammer and punch but it was cracking chunks off after i fot it off i took it to my bench grinder and got the majority ot the teeth marks off and used a punch to reinstall it .
I just put in a new shifter shaft and gaskets on the ytm runs great goes anywhere lil tank i would have replaced the axle nut but its discontinued.
right now im looking at getting a sand blaster kit for my compressor $19.00 for a basic kit if i was going to use it once it would be a waste but I have 2 other 200x frames i could paint and sell and the 350x will need a frame painted for so i think its a good investment.still need $$$$ though
jeswinehart
02-07-2003, 08:30 PM
DIGGER DOG, i have alawys just used a pipe wrench and large crescent wrench getting axil nuts loose and tight. i hafta use breaker bars on both to loosen + tighten, if you adjust the pipe wrench tight, it won't leave teeth marks.
john
DIGGER DOG
02-07-2003, 08:44 PM
:D you know it john I have 3 cresent wrenches none fit the 200x axle nut I was gonna get one tonite but i dont want to pay sears 60.00 for it as for the ytm 200 it needs a special tool from Yamaha its one of those slotted nuts yamadog wants to call the tool a universal spanner tool :rolleyes: :D
DIGGER DOG
02-07-2003, 08:46 PM
I also need to get some pipe to make breaker bars
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