Help On 200x Motor Troubles

[200xadam]

Hi
I just rebuilt my 200x motor. i replaced everything that touches the kickstarter gears. because my kickstarter gears where all stirpped out. i got it bored .080 and i got a 12:1 high compression wiseco piston. ive got a supertrapp exhaust system (it has discs on the end instead of an end cap) and ive taken all the discs off so its bassicaly a strait pipem and i have a uni air filter without the air box lid. my main jet is a 110 and it runs like sh*t.

i cannot get it to start from kicking it. i have to have it pull started by a lawn mower. but when it starts it will only idle, when i give it gas it boggs out. it is also blowing a little bit of blue smoke like its burning oil. what could i have done wrong durring the rebuild that could be causing this??

there is also an oil leak comming from the case to the kick starter, im going to re seal it but could that be effecting my engine??

me and a friend did all the work so we could easily have messed something up lol, what do you think is causing all the trouble?

Thanks

[jenndnn3]

Did you split the engine? or just do the kicker gears?

I am betting 110 is too lean, up it.
When you rebuilt, did you make sure the rings were placed correctly and the gaps place aprox 90 degrees away from each other?
12 to one is gonna be a ***** to start, I bet it is hard to kick? Sometimes you need to break her in a lil to make life just a touch easier.
Speaking of breakin, when you got her running you took it easy right? You didnt race it around full throttle or anything did ya?
I assume all timing, and adjustments are well within specs? A hair off causes fun starting issues.
How were those valves?
The oil leak would not cause your other problems if only it is out of bottom end. Where is it exactly?

[200xadam]

i was thinkin 110 was too lean too! i started at 145 and it was way to rich so i went down to the 110 and it still acts like its rich so im very confused,

i never actualy got it to run on its own it would only idle, if i gave it throttle it bogged out and died as if it was running rich, and it backfired once shooting a cloud of blue smoke, hence the thought of oil burning. i did split the cases...unfortunately that was the most annoying thing ever. im going back in to check the piston a friend of mine did the rings and he said that they are spaced out away from eachother but in no specific spot, so im thinking that might be effecting it?

yea it is a bi*ch to kick, i have a bruise on the bottom of my foot thats just a big line lol

the timing..i kept the notch in the top windown on the case but it was trying to pull out so it was on the very right edge but if we moved the cam chain a link over it was off so i think its right..

and for the valves..what are * asking??

i didnt do anything with the valves yet...i bought performance valves but i have not yet put them in because im getting a port and polish done to my head before i put them in.

the oil leak is on the kicker case the small case right behind the right foot peg. where the kickstarter comes out of.

pls help its becoming very irritateing to have a machine that i cant even run!!

and i do know the rules of breaking in a motor and the heat cycles i need to put it throught so dont worry about that

[Macs]

also check your compression, assembly lube will take a while to burn off ( please tell me you used assembly lube or lithium grease). your engine will not run right until it has burned off. but this remids me of a problem i had were for some reason when i had gotten the engine bored it didnt match the piston size. it was either a miss comunnication or something ( that is why i bring the new piston to the machine shop for now on so they can match it). i couldnt figure out why i was having to push it around the block to start it and it wouldnt run past idle. also you will have to richen your main. with the exhaust you are definatley running lean. i wouldnt run it with no caps cause you will burn the valves rather quickly.

[200xadam]

ok i used my regular motor oil as lube, and i figured that it might be that but i wasnt sure i kinda forgot about that, my piston is the correct size lol thats kinda funny that would suck but i left the piston with the shop just so that wouldnt happen. ok the exhaust thing helps thanks, i was kinda wondering about that becuase my friend told me to run it open i was kinda thinkin why dont they make straight pipes if its ok then..? ill put my disks back in and see if it makes a difference as well. i dont know about the jetting thought what should i do should i go back to the 145? i also have a 155 and the 110 that im useing

[Hornetpowerspor]

i was thinkin 110 was too lean too! i started at 145 and it was way to rich so i went down to the 110 and it still acts like its rich so im very confused,

i never actualy got it to run on its own it would only idle, if i gave it throttle it bogged out and died as if it was running rich, and it backfired once shooting a cloud of blue smoke, hence the thought of oil burning. i did split the cases...unfortunately that was the most annoying thing ever. im going back in to check the piston a friend of mine did the rings and he said that they are spaced out away from eachother but in no specific spot, so im thinking that might be effecting it?

yea it is a bi*ch to kick, i have a bruise on the bottom of my foot thats just a big line lol

the timing..i kept the notch in the top windown on the case but it was trying to pull out so it was on the very right edge but if we moved the cam chain a link over it was off so i think its right..

and for the valves..what are * asking??

i didnt do anything with the valves yet...i bought performance valves but i have not yet put them in because im getting a port and polish done to my head before i put them in.

the oil leak is on the kicker case the small case right behind the right foot peg. where the kickstarter comes out of.

pls help its becoming very irritateing to have a machine that i cant even run!!

and i do know the rules of breaking in a motor and the heat cycles i need to put it throught so dont worry about that

If you didnt do anything with the valves or the head, I would guess that you have sloppy valve guides and worn valve seals, and that is where the smoke is coming from. Also when you align the marks for your timing, make sure that your piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. If your timing is way off that could cause your motor to bog and backfire like you stated.

[200xadam]

my timeing is relatively right i believe, i had a friend help me on this motor that has rebuilt a few others, and he didnt know the timeing so he asked his friend that has a bunch of old three wheelers and he showed him how to time it so it should be right...but * never know lol all the help is appreciated

[200xadam]

and the sloppy valve guides and seals what is that about? the valves didnt look bad on it they looked relitively clean the motor had a top end rebuild last summer so i dont think there too bad, atleast i dont expect them to be but this is my first time takeing on the inside of a motor so i could be wrong

[Hornetpowerspor]

Your valves could be fine and still have worn guides. But if you had your head rebuilt last year then they should have checked everything out and should be fine, assuming they were done right.

[Dirtcrasher]

If it won't do anything more than idle then there is a big problem. Not a jet changing or disc adding problem. And not a ring out a few degrees problem either. Is the pulse generator timed right or 180 degrees out?? If the head ran before then it's not the valves or guides either but hopefully you at least adjusted them during assembley. Is there a leak on the intake or carb circuit?? That would cause a bog when throttled up. It should do alot more than idle.

[jenndnn3]

So lets start with simple basics. Pull all timing covers. Set engine at TDC rockers loose. and go back to F, where is your cdi? Are the 2 lines lined up? When you go to T on the flywheel is the little black with the line now slightly to the left? Just slightly to the left? IF not pull CDI. And line the CAM up with it loose. Now this is extremely easy. With sprocket off the cam screw hole on loose side will line up with the notch in the head. Then put the sprocket on with the O lined up to the head. You just release your timing chain a little and the sprocket will slide on and off. BY the way, I found out real fast, if your 180 degrees off the valves hit the piston. AND you cannot rotate the engine by hand. So it is really easy to tell if you off or not.

When the sprocket is lined up set them valves, DO it right now. You are all ready TDC, loose and concentrating on T. Now put that Cdi on, The Cam has a notch on the thing that sticks out to hold the middle part of the Cdi. Back the engine to F, Is it lined up? If not remove 2 phillips and adjust the black box on top to line up with the black box n middle. Now that this is lined up. Close it up and move to the carb.

Carb put a 112 or 114 main. jumping from a 110 to a 140 something is way way too much.
Try a 38 slow. That is a baseline for you. Pull that plug often and check it. If it white at all especially the first couple of runs, then keep upping your jetting, You must run rich. After your broke in then you may do a real spark test and get that jetting dialed in. Or all that work you did can go out the window. After every run for a bit check your torque specs, by the way did you torque?

I put 10 to 1 on mine and it is a ***** to kick. Yeah I am a wimp. Anyway, upped to 110 jet on mine 38 slow, and the airbox lid got pulled for idle. That was its only quirk. Yours will have its own quirks.


There are a couple of quick tests you can do to know your off on timing and stuff. put your hand on the back of the carb, is it sucking or blowing, sucking is good blowing is bad, intake valve, not set right, blown, stuck whatever.

how does that spark look by the way when you ground it?

Congrats on the engine rebuild, It is a good feet to accomplish. I understand you want to ride the thing, but patience. If you hurry or are not patient then you will forget something, and whammo. Be patient be systimatic. I learned an extremely good lesson in not being patient and it almost cost me my nice 6 speed. I broke the lead in 6th gear with no clutch and destroyed my crap bearing inside my case. We were trying to force the clutch to work. rather then fix why it wouldnt work. I got garbage bearings. Lucky for me I only ran small bit.

[jenndnn3]

Oh yeah forgot, oil leak, just get a new gasket for that cover. 3 to 5 bux at dealer.

[haywoodjalikme]

I agree with Jenn, check the timing, its not hard to be off by a tooth or 180 degrees.

As for the smoking, when I rebuilt mine it smoked for quite a while until the rings seated and assemby lube burned off.

12:1, are you running "GOOD" high octane fuel? You should be or your new engine will not last long! No racing fuels with a color in the name ie; red, blue
they are sub standard for the price you pay. I run VP C12 with my 200X with a 12:1 piston and it runs way cleaner than the TURBO BLUE that I used to run.

With my mods that can be viewed in my signature below my jetting is as follows;

Main Jet 118
Pilot Jet 38
Pilot screw 1-1/2 turns out
Needle clip middle
Keep in mind that I'm running a XR200R carb with a UNI with the airbox lid on and only 4 discs on my exhaust.

So if you are running no discs on the exhaust and no air box lid you are extremely lean! And without 110 or higher octane your engine will not last long!

Check your timing, buy some jets and good fuel and break your engine in, my piston came with break in instructions.....follow them.

Good luck
Jeff

[jenndnn3]

Oh yes the fuel!! Great call Haywood, I think I may need to up mine as well. I am ticking and I know all is well.

[200xadam]

ok im running only a little bit of 93 right now, i have less than a quarter tank in it because i was just useing the 93 to break it in or w/e but i have a bottle of octane boost i plan on dumping some in to equal it out hopefully, i will be running Torco racing fuel when it is done though i believe its 110 octane.

i think i may have a major problem..., i just bought a service manual for the 200x and it told me that the notch on the piston is suposed to face the intake manifold...i was told it was suposed to face the exhaust manifold...so im thinking my piston is in backwards..with is VERY bad. also i think my piston rings are not in the correct places. i havent torn the motor apart yet but im in the procces, im just praying that i didnt hurt it already. my timeing might be off just a little bit aswell, because when i timed it the notch was off to the right of the window not the left...it was almost out of the window but not quite it was like right on the edge...

i will take that jetting into consideration too, im not sure if im goona run disks or not on the exhaust im going to see how it works..i heard the more disks * have the better performance thought..? is that true??

[shudup]

ok im running only a little bit of 93 right now, i have less than a quarter tank in it because i was just useing the 93 to break it in or w/e but i have a bottle of octane boost i plan on dumping some in to equal it out hopefully, i will be running Torco racing fuel when it is done though i believe its 110 octane.

i think i may have a major problem..., i just bought a service manual for the 200x and it told me that the notch on the piston is suposed to face the intake manifold...i was told it was suposed to face the exhaust manifold...so im thinking my piston is in backwards..with is VERY bad. also i think my piston rings are not in the correct places. i havent torn the motor apart yet but im in the procces, im just praying that i didnt hurt it already. my timeing might be off just a little bit aswell, because when i timed it the notch was off to the right of the window not the left...it was almost out of the window but not quite it was like right on the edge...

i will take that jetting into consideration too, im not sure if im goona run disks or not on the exhaust im going to see how it works..i heard the more disks * have the better performance thought..? is that true??

i dont think its timming if the dot on the cam is up and the line on the fly wheel is correct its fine.
you cant have it 180 out if this is correct. and if its a even one tooth off its easy to see.

jetting may be off as said before but sould still run. But the carbs are a bit of a PITA to get correct . if it stalls when you give it gas (i take it this is after it worms up and w/o the choke on ) also where is your c-clip on your needle sould be all the way twards the pointy end or one above that.
if this is too high it will bog off idle also did you replace your jets in the carb or clean them and be sure the carb itself is clean and nothing is pluged.

you can also get it started w/o the cdi cover on and have a philips screw driver and adjust the timming more advanced if it is too retarted it will bog or die if it given much off idle


if the rotor is 180 out it will not run as it will be firing on exhaust stroke so it can not be this

[shudup]

hay where in michigan are ya just noticed

[haywoodjalikme]

They say the more discs the more top end, less discs more low end torque.

I don't know if thats true but I have just the 4 discs and mine has plenty of power all around.....it would flip my 215 lbs butt right of it if I let it, and even with 4 its still pretty damn loud at wide open throttle. Although I had an open end DG exhaust on my Kawasaki Mojave and that was just crazy loud, now I have a DG RCM alloy with 4 dics on that and its a little quieter than the Xcellorator I have on my 200X but with the 4-valve engine that the Kawasaki has it sounds a little tougher.

That sound of toughness doesn't matter though since my little modified 200X with smoke my Kawasaki Mojave.

I was told once that octane booster isn't all it claims to be and should not me used, that info might have even came with some of the performance engine parts that I bought for my 200X.

Jeff

[200xadam]

im taking the motor to a friend that knows what hes doing with trikes tomarow he will hopefully help me along with all the input ive gotten from *, i might have this beast running tomarow night!,

and i live in britton michigan, thats just south of ann arbor

[Dirtcrasher]

You gotta have some balls splitting a case without a manual. I've had a hundred motors apart and I still always consult a manual. The best advice I can give anyone is to sit down and read the entire chapter on the repair your about to do. Then you refresh your memory while doing the repair but if you've already read about it seems to flow much better.

[200xadam]

yea i think i put a little too much faith in my friends some times lol, i try to save money on laybor and manuals and i end up buying the manual later...and im praying that i dont end up paying for a new piston...and the laybor to install it because if i messed it up im letting a shop do it this time lol.

im still waiting for my ride to take me to my other friends house to tear this motor down and try n figure out what my problems are....hopefully with the manual, his trike knowledge, and all the help from * guys ill get this thing running within the week!

[200xadam]

ok ive opened up my motor again and my timeing it suposedly correct, and was the whole time...there was a little bit of slack in the cam chain, my piston was in the correct way. the rings are now arranged the correct way.

but now i have a new question, when we looked at my cam we saw a small dent in one of the nobby deals ( dunno what there called ) but there is a small dent in it, is that enought to cause the motor to act up like it is??

[200xadam]

oh and another thing i forgot to mention, we think that its possible when we re assembled the motor i did buy a new cam sprocket n chain and we think that the sprocket might have been put on upsidown, so that would make the exhaust valve n intave valve open at the oposite times...could this be whats wrong..?

[200xadam]

i dont think its timming if the dot on the cam is up and the line on the fly wheel is correct its fine.
you cant have it 180 out if this is correct. and if its a even one tooth off its easy to see.

jetting may be off as said before but sould still run. But the carbs are a bit of a PITA to get correct . if it stalls when you give it gas (i take it this is after it worms up and w/o the choke on ) also where is your c-clip on your needle sould be all the way twards the pointy end or one above that.
if this is too high it will bog off idle also did you replace your jets in the carb or clean them and be sure the carb itself is clean and nothing is pluged.

you can also get it started w/o the cdi <a href="http://www.ntsearch.com/search.php?q=cover&v=56">cover</a> on and have a philips screw driver and adjust the timming more advanced if it is too retarted it will bog or die if it given much off idle


if the rotor is 180 out it will not run as it will be firing on exhaust stroke so it can not be this

i totaly overlooked the fact that * said something about the needle in this post..i looked at my needle and the clip was twords the very bottom like one or two from the bottom i believe, so i adjusted it to the second notch from the top. this probobly effected my bogging but i dont think that it caused everything..

[short4stuff]

oh and another thing i forgot to mention, we think that its possible when we re assembled the motor i did buy a new cam sprocket n chain and we think that the sprocket might have been put on upsidown, so that would make the exhaust valve n intave valve open at the oposite times...could this be whats wrong..?

yeah that matters.. the cam lobes (the nobby things) face done when the piston is at TDC... so the dot on the cam sprocket should be on the oppisite side of the lubes....
Get it?

[200xadam]

ok yea i just remembered when we put the motor back together my friend telling me the lobes always face down so the sprocket must be on right. and would the nick in the cam cause these troubles??? the motor did run before i did this work....and i am looking for an aftermarket cam, as are you short i c from ** sig, does anyone know where to find one...??? webcam made one but there not in production anymore, and im going to check on hot cams right now....

[shudup]

yeah that matters.. the cam lobes (the nobby things) face done when the piston is at TDC... so the dot on the cam sprocket should be on the oppisite side of the lubes....
Get it?

you cant get the sprocket on wrong because you are getting the ignition timming from the cam and it can only be correct or 180 out (it will only fire on compresion stroke when rotor is correct) and it is a single cylinder motor. this means that it will always be correct and this is why they didnt use a keyway or pin so that the gear can only go one way.

kinda hard to explain but makes no dif. how the sprocket is on cam.

and also he has had it running so if there was a way to have it 180 buy the cam it would not run

[jenndnn3]

Actually there are only 2 ways to put that sprocket it on. Correctly or upside down. To not effect the cam. You may be correct that yeah the sprocket may or may not matter, but That O is there so that you know when the cams are down. The O lines up with the sprocket bolt holes that tell you where your cam position is. When you install the cam it needs to be set down so it is loose on the rockers. That puts one of the bolt holes dead top. Then when you put your sprocket on with the O where it belongs you timing is on as far as the cam is concern to that of the flywheel. Go ahead and put the O on bottom doesnt matter, but why confuse the situation? What truely matter is the cam is lined up to the flywheel. And they give you a nifty O to help with that.

[200xadam]

ok i got a picture of the cam dent...its a really crappy picture but its really hard to get in that small...n for some reason it showed up like all cartoony lookin but the dark spot is the dent or chip or w/e

[shudup]

that is what i was trying to do. tell him that it dont matter.. one less thing for him to wonder if he done wrong
hate to have im take that apart for no reason

that dent sould be ok for now (just to get it running) as it looks to be on the edge but hard to see
but id change it asap as not to mess up a rocker if it does ride in the dented area

you can get a compleat used head with cam and rocker cover off ebay for about $20 to $40

[200xadam]

i think ill try n get it running n all that with that cam but i might order me a new performance one tomarow with the help of jenn (thank you soo much ** really gettin me throught this project) ive found that powroll makes a race cam for the 200x.

one of these days ill have this thing running thought lol

[haywoodjalikme]

Webcam still makes cams according to the website;

WEBCAM CAMSHAFTS (http://www.webcamshafts.com/)

Jeff

[200xadam]

ok....ive ran throught the motor and found only the cam is wrong inside the motor but i expect that the cam would still let the motor run...i pulled the x with the tractor again and it ran exactly the same just no smoke this time...it acts like its not getting any gas...i have no idea why...unless there are some carburator problems...i just rebuilt the carbuerator too so are there any mistakes that could have been made durring that..? i need this thing to run!!

[jenndnn3]

200xAdam,

Get them jets!! I leave for a week. I expect to come back to hear that your machine is in top form. !! I know your close.

Haywood tell him he needs jets. And to stop useing that 110 jet. and the 145 jet. I told him run a very similar setup on jetting to yours.

Good luck Adam I know you can do it! :w00t:

[200xadam]

ok i got a 120 and 125 jet, the 120 would kick a little bit almost like i had my throttle hooked up =(

the 120 responds a little bit and it just kinda sputters n boggs out, the 125 does the exact same thing but it dosnt respond as well or as often so im guessing im closer with the 120.

i also took the clip on the needle to the second from the bottom notch, and i turned the screw in the float bowl 2 3/4 turns and my friend adjusted my fuel screw on the outside i dont know where its at but he was messing with my carb trying to help me, my pilot jets are also at 40 so i dont know what to do its just not working man...

i have a nice blue spark so i know thats good but i was adjusting my choke when i was having it pulled around running the motor and i touched the motor and it electrocuted the **** out of me so is the electrical messed up causing me these troubles??

[haywoodjalikme]

Will do Jenn, Adam and I have been PMing each other back and forth about this.

Adam glad to here you got some different jets!

I would say a 120 and 40 with your needle clip in the middle groove( I know I told you 2nd from the bottom, but I think the 120 may be a touch big so try the middle groove)

Since you have a 40 pilot jet go about 2-1/4 turns out on the pilot screw.

This set up should be enough fuel to get the machine running.

I don't understand the "shocking" thing, that has me baffled :wondering , only thing I can think of is if you painted everything and the coil and engine aren't making enough contact with the frame and isn't grounded

The screw on the side of the carb is the idle screw, it raises the carb slide when it is screwed in....Make sure you are giving it throttle while turning this screw in or the screw will ding up the adjustment ramp on the slide.

If you can get it started by pulling or kicking, let it sit there and idle for 5 minutes and shut it off and check the plug. At least you would know if its getting enough fuel for idling.

I'm headed to the raceshop to pull the motor out of the racecar, maybe if I get home at a decent hour I'll check back on here.

Jeff

[200xadam]

ok after talking with jenn im going to run a stronger wire as a ground and adjust my valves and i should be able to start this thing.. i will also adjust the carb screw as * said haywood

[200xadam]

wait haywood, * might be on to something, ok this trike was originaly my friends and he took the frame and cut off most of the cdi mounting brackets and put a 200s motor in the frame and mounted up the s cdi, so now my coil for the 200x dosnt have the correct brackets so only one side of the coil is attatched to the frame a believe...would that cause a problem in the ground??? i have a spare frame that im waiting to sandblast and powedercoat that will be done in the next week or so with all the correct mounting brackets so i will have it connected right soon...but i wanted to get the motor broke in first..

[83185s]

another camshaft place that makes racing cams is www.megacyclecams.com ...ive heard they are pretty good but im not sure cause i dont have one...it looks liek your comin right along with this 200x...as you prolly found out..jenn is a good help woth 200x's!!

[200xadam]

yea if not for her i would have thrown this thing away already, she makes me keep faith in myself lol

[haywoodjalikme]

Adam

You could take a wire with a 'loop' connector on both ends about 4" long and connect it to the coil bolt thats mounted to the frame and run it over to the side of the coil that isn't connected to the frame and just run a bolt through it so both sides of the coil are grounded. Except I don't know if doing it that way would hurt the coil though, it shouldn't but you never know.

The only other thing I can think of is that your plug wire is cracked and the spark is jumping to the frame. :wondering

Jeff

[Pigga]

heres an idea you probley dont have the right octain fuel so its pre detonating that might have been your problem all long because i have the 12:1 on my 350x and it runs like crap with 93. for a 12:1 you should run about 2 gallons of 110 "race fuel" to every 3 gallons of 93... that might fix your problem do not use octain booster its not the same it will gunk up your motor, if your looking for good cams i bought mine off of webcams they make a BIG diference in performance and you might want to look into a bigger carburator too . webcams (http://www.webcamshafts.com/whatatv.html)

[200xadam]

me and jen talked it out and figured out that im getting a double ground because my screw in my coil is bumping the frame grounding the coil with that, and my ground wire that i ran..

thast why its shocking me and thats why it wont run..

so what i was to do is take that wire off and securly mount the coil onto the metal mounts, grounding it. then if i had a spark without that extra wire i would be correctly grounded and should have a running motor....

i removed the wire and secured the coil on....got no spark, i removed what i had done and hooked the coil back up the way i had it before...now i have no spark that way either....and i have no idea what to do....

[haywoodjalikme]

O.k.

Do you have a multi-meter tester and know how to use it?

Also what year are all the electrical parts(cdi, coil..etc..) i'll give you some specs, but the cdi readings vary from the 83 model and the 84-85 models.

You or your buddy have to know how to use the multi-meter though.

Jeff

[200xadam]

my moms bf is a mechanic and pobobly has one and if he has it knows how to use it...

[200xadam]

would it be possible for me to put an entire 200s wireing harness on the x motor..? i have a complete s motor and i tried putting the s cdi box on it but it didnt work but could i put the wireing harness from the s on it?, just to see if my coil or something is my problem??

[haywoodjalikme]

I would have to say no since the test specs are probably different between the two...I will check tomorrow when I get home from work, just for reference what year is the 200X and what year is the 200S? I'll need to know for cross reference.

I am pretty sure you can't use the S coil on the X though and that would mean that you couldn't use the entire S wiring harness if I'm correct.

Jeff

The ohms test for the X coil is as follows;

Take the coil off the trike and test with multi-meter set for ohms.

1 lead to mounting hole, other lead to spade terminal= 0.2-0.8 ohms of resistance
1 lead to mounting hole, other lead to plug wire boot= 8-15k ohms of resistance

If you coil tests within these specs the coil is GOOD.

Jeff

[haywoodjalikme]

Heres the rest of the electrical tests for the 84-85 200X, if you need the specs for a 83 let me know(only the CDI test is different)

Check with ohm meter

Alternator test
black/red wire to CDI engine cover is normal if there is continuity and 100-400 ohms of resistance
************************************************
pulse generator (behind CDI engine cover) test
blue/yellow and green wires 50-150 ohms

also make sure the spark advancer behind the CDI engine cover moves freely.
************************************************
CDI test with ohms tester

You will have to note the cover of the wires on the connectors and test the CDI spade terminals as if they were color coded the same as the wires. Don't know how else to explain this.

First color listed is for the positive wire of the tester.
BLK TO GRN=.5-100
BLK TO BLK/RED=.2-20
BLK TO GRN=.5-100
BLK TO BLUE/YEL=5-200
BLK TO BLK/YELLOW=CONT

GRN TO BLK=CONT
GRN TO BLK/RED=CONT
GRN TO BLUE/YELLOW= .5-100
GRN TO BLK/YELLOW=CONT

BLK/RED TO BLK=CONT
BLK/RED TO GRN=.2-20
BLK/RED TO GRN=.2-20
BLK/RED TO BLUE/YELLOW=2-100
BLK/RED TO BLK/YELLOW=CONT

GRN TO BLK=CONT
GRN TO BLK/RED=CONT
GRN TO BLUE/YELLOW= .5-100
GRN TO BLK/YELLOW=CONT

And finally positive lead to blue/yellow and negative to every other terminal should have continuity.

And positive lead to blk/yellow and negative to every other terminal should have continuity.

Yes thats a whole lot of testing for a little CDI!

Good luck
Jeff

[200xadam]

what is the spark advancor becase i might have that held down or something?? im really out of ideas now man and im about to the point of giving up nothing makes this thing work, im goona try n buy a used wireing harness for cheap that someone knows is good just to make sure

[haywoodjalikme]

Its under the cover marked CDI, the advancer is the center thing, you should be able to move it freely left and right a little bit. There should also be 0.014-0.020" air gap between that and the black rectangular box above it when the marks line up.

Jeff

[haywoodjalikme]

ADAM

Any new updates?

Jeff