250 sx swinger question.

[bigredhead]

Ok.

Last night i started working on a " Home-Made " tool to remove my swingarm to replace the bearings..... ran out of saw's all blades so project ended early... wow.. cutting into a 30 mm chrome venadium(sp? ) socket is no easy task !!!

Well.. at this point i started to fiddle around on it and here's what i noticed !!!

When i put the bike up on blocks and lift the rear end up.. the right side is tight and that's cool !

however. the LEFT side ( drive shaft side ) has a wiggle in it !!!! I can feel in in the foot pegs when i hit the gas..

If i pull the rubber drive axle boot, will i be able to tighten this sucker up ? or does play in here mean that the bearing on that side is shot ?

I have ALL the bearings for the entire rear end.. but am re-thinking the swing arm part... :mad:


oh. and btw.. this is an 85..

[Dirtcrasher]

Oh boy....... You better hope it's just the bearing. What happens is when you let the bearings get contaminated or go to long before changing/greasing/adjusting them, you start wearing out other things. Most likely you have worn out the OD of the pivot stud welded onto the SX swingarm. It is not adjustable and cannot be fixed unless you make up a jig that gets everything perfectly square and make up a new one in a lathe for it then mig weld it on. You will need a new/used swinger so look on EBAY but brighten the picture and look for a good pivot stud and very little scoring in the seal are. Once the seal area is scored then even new seals don't help and water gets in there. I have tossed at least 3 swingarms due to this problem.

Forget the tool, they are usually too tight and rusted in there for the tool to work anyhow - get out the punch and hammer.

[BLAZERONE22]

I'm yanking a sx swinger also, I have the pivot bolt out, but on the stud side I can't get it off, Is there a trick to getting it out of there with out messing it up, or is it welded to the bearing?

[bigredhead]

I see.

The punch and hammer thing is kinda scarry man.... i tried with a blunt/not very sharp large chisel and with a 3 Lb + mallet and all i'm doing is chewing up the nut, i hope that if i was to keep wacking at it that it would eventually go... but maaaaaan.... i cringe at every WAHK...


When i tried with the honda tool ( in the parking lot, bike in the truck bed ) i had just taken off the cap and it was bone dry... with limited access due to the rack and plastics still being on the bike....

I"ve cleaned it up really good and have been sparying it nightly with Bell-Ray penetrating oil and it's soaking into the threads really well....

I bought new blades .. and a grinding disk for the grinder... gonna give it a try first, if that finally fails then plan B.. TORCH and a HEAVYER HAMMER.

Play is very minimal.. aprox 1/16 th of up/down, but it's bugging the hell outa me.

Thanks for the info DirtC.

[BLAZERONE22]

I've got a good nut and pivot bolt I can send you if you ding yours up. Great fun huh ???

[bigredhead]

Tell me about it.

I love working on it.. but i hate it when you have to mangle stuff to get it out.

I'll let you know very soon if i need to take you up on that !!.. Awsome !!! :cheers:

[Dirtcrasher]

I use a 5/16 punch with a nice 90 degree flat on the end. It hits square and doesn't chew it up at all. I had no luck with the correct tool until I heated it up.

Blazer, the left side just sits into the inner bearing and that rests against the outer race. Unless it's all seized up it should slide right off.

[bigredhead]

Update :

Hey.. beleive it or not.. i got the sucker out.. she was tighter than a nun's ...... oh never mind... :P

Used the home-made tool.. Took 2 metal bladed in the saw's all and a 1/2 inch off the grinding wheel to make it .. but after a few HEAVE - HOe...'s she came off. phew.

Now comes the fun part.... taking all this apart.. i removed the rubber boot from the engine and removed both wheels... had to go by then so that's how far i am now.

I don't like how the manual keeps telling me " Take it to the dealer and have them ....... blablabla... ".. argggggg

[bigredhead]

Ok.... phew.... it's 12 at night, been at it since about 9.. and a bunch of beers later :beer

Got to use my new bearing puller.. man that thing is worth it's weight in gold... I just drove a spike thru the metal cover behind the bearings. hammered as much as i could out of it.. then put this sucker to work.. 5 minutes and a whole lota whacking later... outer races out.

You see the condition of the bearings.. they are shot.. barely move seized up.

Question:

Do i need ot sand down the spot were the seal goes.. there is a rough spot there and i'm curious to know if it's supposed to be that way.. clean and leave it alone.. or if i should polish that puppy up so that it does not rip up my new seals ???


And finally the stud on the swignarm itself.. it's in fair shape i think.. any opinions would be great !!!!!

[bigredhead]

oh and one more thing.

what the hell do you use to drive in the wheel hub bearings ??? those suckers are HUGE>......

I got this set of bearing pucks.. but i'm a few sizes doo short. :mad:

[bigredhead]

Hey.. it's now 1:25 am.. and i need to know about this.. anyone ?????


I'm cleaning everything nice and neat.... WD 40 and a tooth brush..

Oh i can't wait.. it's gonna be a sweeeeet ride.


And i get to put in a new brake drum.. off of e-bay. 45 shipped.. has back plate.. drum. and SPLINED hub was left on it !

bearings are shot there too... but got new pads.

Where's the cheapest plact to buy a hand perch/assembly/lever/cable. etc.. for back brake..

In canada.

[rob0781]

wow your still up workin on it..

[bigredhead]

yep.. another hour or so... . 1:51am right now.

[rob0781]

hahahahaha you must have a ride planned tommorow or just eager to get it done...

[bigredhead]

eager to get it done.

Got a 42mm socket to drive the bearings in the rear end... got the head running.. and am heading out for more fun..... i'll have pictures of my new front -max later tonight too !