View Full Version : SX Swingarm removal.
bigredhead
03-26-2005, 03:04 PM
Ok.. i got ALL the honda bearings and seals to totally re-do the rear end.
Took the bike to Honda on the back of a truck to borrow the " Special Honda " tool ( BTW, i asked how much to buy one.. get this. 150 $ !!! ) and i removed the plastic cap, and tried to remove the castle nut that holds the 17mm alan bolt in place, and nodda !... ain't budging !
I had a 2 ft bar with another 3ft extension and basically picked the trike up off the ground and it's in there good.
I took it back home, i'm going to remove the rack, rear plastics and seat, wheels etc.. and go at it again after i buy a 30 - 32 mm 8 sided socket and grind it down to make my own tool !
Anyone know of tricks to get this sucker off ? :rolleyes:
bigredhead
03-26-2005, 07:01 PM
Soooooo.... you guys all take your trikes to the dealer for swing arm bearings or what ????
Dirtcrasher
03-26-2005, 08:02 PM
That is a piece of cake. You take a 2lb hammer and a 5/16 punch and whack it in the loosen direction. Not a screwdriver and a ball peen hammer but some real tools and it will loosen no problem. One time I had to heat one up a bit due to corrosion but I have never had to use any special or homemade tool.
Just wait till you see how the front pinion bearing is held in, LOL - GOOD LUCK!!!!
bigredhead
03-26-2005, 09:25 PM
Hmm....
ok then. a 2 lb hammer and a big ass punch it is . Thanks.
Honda tells me that one of the bearings should be mig welded , inside race and outside race together, in order for it to come out...... i'm hoping they are wrong.
Any tips to be shared anyone ? right now would be the perfect timing !! LOL...
Dirtcrasher
03-28-2005, 09:16 AM
You can dremel a slice in the race if your gonna scrap it. Or smash right throught the tin cap behind it and into the other side to knock them out. Then either replace the tin covers, or drill and tap that tube 1/4-28 fore a zirk fitting and then stick a piece of foam in there so it doesn't take a pound of grease to fill it. There are 2 holes in that tube already which must be either used or plugged up.
bigredhead
03-28-2005, 02:27 PM
YEAH.,. i saw those holes.. made me wonder ?? previous owner .. or missing zirks ??
I looked at the new bearings and one of them has a cap with the bearing... so if i smash it .. i got a new one already !
Will that cap push both the inside and outside races out ? This is hard to mentally picture as i have not had it apart yet !!
The punch and hammer thing....... i'm afraid to smash the hell out of that ring ?? i have access to a compressor and air chisel too... but same thing. i don't want to break anything and have it stuck in there.. it's fine if i muck up the ring and it comes out, i can always buy a new one, but if it gets stuck in there i'm screwed.
Dirtcrasher
03-28-2005, 03:40 PM
Just squirt it with penetrating oil ahead of time and it will loosen right up. The inner race is set up exactly like a tapered wheel bearing and will slide right out of the outer race and off of the pivot bolt. Follow the book when reassembling and use a 17mm bolt head with a couple of nuts locked on it to deal with the pivot bolt. It has to be torqued to ?lbs. or preloaded just like the book says.
bigredhead
03-28-2005, 04:00 PM
Cool.
Got the book, and neighbor has the 17mm alen for a 1/2"socket so i'm all set there, just gotta get that outer one outa there....
Thank you !.. very much !
Don't got a torque wrench, but Canadian Tire has the old type with the bend bar 0 to 150 lbs.....for like 30 $. I want a good expensive one, but can't afford it yet.
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