how much does it usually cost for rebore or hone of your cylinder?

[chris200x]

I'm sure diffrent place=diffrent prices. If it aint bad the usually just hone it out.can some explaine these processes and price diffrences. Thanks

[BIGCRIP28]

you can get a hone for a drill and do it yourself. honing is to deglaze the cylinder. if it isnt too worn you can just hone it and rering. this roughs it up into a crosshatch pattern instead of being completely smooth (glazed) so the oil lubricates properly.
when it is worn too much you will need to bore or resleeve. when i did my 110 i took my cylinder to a honda dealer and traded it for one that was bored and payed like 15 or 20 bucks. then i just had to get the right size piston and rings for it.
to check how worn it is just stick your old top ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it down a little ways so it is even. then just get a feeler guage and check the ring end gap. a manual will show the tolerances and wear limits.

[thefox]

I have had a cylinder honed for $15 then I ended up buying a cylinder hone from sears later for $20 or so. Boring usually cost $50-$60 around here.

[leprogle]

boring costs 20 dollars at a local bike shop, here in musquash. the guy is a honda guru, and told me that when the cylinder wears out, it is like a barrel effect, and wears mostly in the middle, unlike a car, you can't just replace the rings, and if you hone it, it will work better, but still burn oil when the piston is at the middle of the cylinder. he also says that honing a worn cylinder, makes it like a record, and has fine grooves in the cylinder, and will not seal right. the PROPER way, is to bore, and get it perfectly smooth. then hone, honing is just meant for the finishing touch.

[chris200x]

This might be a dumb question but when do you know its time for a hone or rebore. Will it smoke real bad annd will you have a loss sov power? thanks

[vartiak15]

depends on the shape of the cylinder. if it is reall scratched up get a bore if just lil scratches you can only tell with your finger nail get a hone. i got to hone tool for 20 bucks. but it only cost 20 to do it from the shop i say have the shop do it. you will get a beter cross stich pattern.

[hrc85250r]

i paid 30$ for an awesome bore/hone job up here at an auto parts store....not all engine building guys can do 2 stroke cylinders due to the ports...the boring bit can catch on the ports and snap off the carbide( i think thats what it is)...which can cost those guys big$$....you have to get a self centering bore bar(i think)....cant quite remember...

[83185s]

it cost me 20 bucks for a bore and hone job at the local car mechanic place type deal..lol..couldnt think of what it was called...anyway..they did a really good job for my 185!

[BIGCRIP28]

burning alot of oil, smoking.
fouled plugs from oil blowby

[Dirtcrasher]

Again, anyone know when it is time to get this done?

You have to take it in and get it measured in a few spots - especially the middle. There really is NO other way. You can't look at it and guess unless it's scored up and lots of cylinders look good but need boring. If there are a bunch of hours on it, it most likely needs to be bored.

[chris200x]

So if it's not a two smoker I can take it to a automotive mechanic to do this? The reason I ask is I'm not having really good luck with the motorcycle mechanics in my area.

[hotroddal]

ahh...just go buy a hone and do it yourself, you will most likely need it again anyways so just buy it and do it your self, i got my hone from the carquest auto parts store for around$30, i was able to do all sized 2 and 4 strokes from 50cc-300cc with no ploblem at all.

[chris200x]

Does anyone have a pic of this hone so i know what i'm looking for...also do I need a drill press?

[grundlegrabber]

Ok, let me try to set you guys straight on this matter by sharing my knowlege of this subject. I am a certified auto mechanic and I have been working on all kinds of engines, mostly bikes and trikes, for about 14 years now and I have dealt with this many times. Not sure what type of motor you have, but let's just assume 4 stroke for a minute. As engines wear over the years, the cylinder bore and the rings lose some metal and the clearances between them become greater. This results in compression loss and oil burning, which tells you it's time to rebuild. Leprogle explained pretty well about what happens to the bore as it wears out. It becomes tapered, and the piston wears to match it. Unless the cylinder is pretty fresh, honing and throwing in a new piston is not going to give you the results you desire. Usually when a 4 stroke has worn out a top end, it has run for a long time and there is a lot of wear in the cylinder that you cannot see unless you measure with a micrometer. A proper bore job cannot be done without first having the piston in hand that you are going to use. The cylinder should be matched against the piston, so that the proper clearance is obtained. Many pistons vary in diameter by thousandths of an inch, which makes a big difference in the way your motor performs.

Now let's assume 2 strokes. A 2 stroke cylinder wears much more quiclkly, for many reasons. The biggest reason is that it receives its lubrication through the gas and not from a pump directly pumping oil into it (unless it's injected). 2 strokes require more frequent rebuilds, and often you will find scoring in the cylinder when it's worn out. When you disassemble the top end, look at the piston. The crown will have carbon on it, and the brown color will extend down into the area where the rings sit in the piston. If there is evidence of the brown color below the bottom ring, that means the compression rings are leaking, your motor is experiencing compression loss, and you are losing power. If the cylinder has a somewhat recent bore and shows no evidence of scoring, simply honing it and re-ringing it will probably get you by. This is actually more of a maintenance procedure for 2 strokes. When it is time to bore, 2 strokes have large ports in the cylinder walls that need to be chamfered after the boring is done. Some have a narrow bridge between the exhaust ports that needs to be clearanced, since that part heats up faster than the rest of the cylinder. For this reason, when boring a 2 stroke you should use a shop that is experienced with these types of cylinders.
A few things to keep in mind:
ATV motors tend to run hotter and at higher RPM than car engines, so they will wear much quicker. When rebuilding a car motor many guys just hone out the jugs, since they don't usually suffer the extreme wear that we see in many of the bike motors. The proper way to do a top end job, though, is to bore the cylinder (s) and match to the new pistons.
A common cause in 4 strokes of oil burning and compression loss is worn valve guides/seals and leaking valve seats. When rebuilding your 4 stroke, don't forget to replace the valve seals, inspect the seats, and re-lap the valve seats with lapping compound.
After a cylinder is bored it must be finish honed. When honing a cylinder, you want to end up with a cross-hatched pattern in the walls. This allows the rings to seat better, and the cross hatching actually holds oil so that the jug stays lubricated.
A good bore job around here costs $40 to 50 per hole for 4 stroke, and $50-60 per hole for a 2 stroke (2 strokes are more because of the time required to chamfer the ports). Most machine shops are capable of doing this, and in fact smaller shops will often send your parts out to a machine shop rather than do the boring in-house. I use a machine shop that specializes in automotive and small engine work. The cycle shops around here just don't seem to care and the turnaround time can be very lengthy. I have had no luck with any of them around here either, that's why I started doing the work myself. Your local repiar garage may be able to hone a cylinder, but they will not have the expensive equipment required to do a bore job. My advice is to call or visit a few machine shops and try to find one that does small engine work.
And finally, to answer your question about how do you know it's time for a top end job, 4 strokes usually will start to burn some oil, or you may feel that it just doesn't have the power that it used to. 2 strokes will either stop running, won't rev out and make any power, or the powerband will just start to feel soft. With a 2 stroke it's a good idea to disassemble the top end and inspect it once a season.
Hope this helps.
~ Rob ~

[chris200x]

Wow, that is ALOT of typing 2 days worth for us slow folks. lol

[Rex Karz]

You know what shape your cylinder with a COMPRESSION TEST!!!!!!!!

A compression gague is essential for motorcycle riders. Even if your bike runs well, you will have a baseline to go by when your engine gets older.

Be sure it has an adaptor to fit your head. It is a different size than car plug holes.

[chris200x]

thanks guys for the grest advice! these boards rule!!!

[Dirtcrasher]

Does anyone have a pic of this hone so i know what i'm looking for...also do I need a drill press?


They sell a hone with 3 stones that I've seen used mainly in automotive cylinders which works but I like the ball hones. There are about a hundred balls on the end of some support rods and they work very well - I have no idea where to get it other than where I got mine - McMaster/Carr.

Anyone who uses a drill press for honing has no idea how to hone unless it has a very slow speed, but then again most people don't really know how to anyway. The idea is to end up with a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder which is accomplished with a variable speed drill going slow and moving in and out of the cylinder maybe once for every few revolutions of the hone. It takes some practice to be done correctly. I have seen many knuckleheads flipping there drill on and just cruising in and out and thinking that they did a great job.

You've got a 4 stroke there, spend the 125$ for a bore, hone and a new piston and ring and you will get many hours and be glad you did it. Bring the new piston so they get it right.

[Huffa]

Here is what your typical honer tool looks like that goes on a drill.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/21200/21195.JPG

http://i13.ebayimg.com/02/i/03/aa/a7/33_1_b.JPG

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/21400/21332.JPG

[Huffa]

They sell a hone with 3 stones that I've seen used mainly in automotive cylinders which works but I like the ball hones. There are about a hundred balls on the end of some support rods and they work very well - I have no idea where to get it other than where I got mine - McMaster/Carr.

Anyone who uses a drill press for honing has no idea how to hone unless it has a very slow speed, but then again most people don't really know how to anyway. The idea is to end up with a cross hatch pattern in the cylinder which is accomplished with a variable speed drill going slow and moving in and out of the cylinder maybe once for every few revolutions of the hone. It takes some practice to be done correctly. I have seen many knuckleheads flipping there drill on and just cruising in and out and thinking that they did a great job.

You've got a 4 stroke there, spend the 125$ for a bore, hone and a new piston and ring and you will get many hours and be glad you did it. Bring the new piston so they get it right.

Dirtcrasher is right. You can't just go in with the drill revving it to the moon and expect a good job. You also must be sure when using the 3 blade type that you don't protrude out the bottom or top too far as this will cause it to burr the edge of the cylinder or the stones to go on an angl too much.. At least I think thats what will happen?

I used to do it years ago at a mower shop. I just remember slow and steady alternating the speed somewhat. That was 20 years ago so excuse me if I'm wrong about it.

[chris200x]

really i was just wondering how much it would cost at a mechanic? lol

[BIGCRIP28]

yep, you have to go slow.
dont do it if you dont have any experience or never seen anyone else do it.

[shanefoster]

The abstraction is to end up with a cantankerous bear arrangement in the butt which is able with a capricious acceleration assignment travelling apathetic and affective in and out of the butt maybe already for every few revolutions of the hone.

[Toledo_Tommy]

I just dropped my cylinder off at PR racing engines and it was a grand total of $227.00 . That is a bore and new wiseco prolite piston , just for your info they run a couple of hone jobs on it after they bore.

[oscarmayer]

get it bored and hones to the correct next sized piston. it will still smoke and still not run right and will haev piston slap due to loose piston ont he jug if you just hone. Trust me, I know cause I haev done it many times to tr yto jsut get it going, but within a yra it's back for a new refresh and bore this time.

bore/hone with new 200x piston you can expect to spend about $120 parts and machining. that is with a ebay 200x or xr200 piston. rememeber to get a .020 larger or .5m larger piston. that will be the next size up. so this means you must take yours appart and measure the cyclinder and piston to ensure correct sizings to the next step are correct. i have foudn where some real spart person stuck a stock piston into a bored cyclinder and could not figure out why is smoked.

[cr480r]

The abstraction is to end up with a cantankerous bear arrangement in the butt which is able with a capricious acceleration assignment travelling apathetic and affective in and out of the butt maybe already for every few revolutions of the hone.

say what? .

[Ironbnder]

Kinda off topic but-

I had a machine shop bore a 460 Ford and press the new 30 over pistolas on the rods for me. Brought it home, slammed it together, installed, fired it up and it barely ran and sounded like an old Cummins diesel. Tore it back down to discover they bored it 60 over. And I remind you that they had the pistons in there hands when they bored it! They had to find me another block and rebore it correctly. I have not used them since and this was a very reputable shop. I now remic before assemble, I do not care who bores it. That was alot of work to do twice.