Proper procedure to strip and paint frame

[DeePa]

I just powerwashed my 200s frame, and am letting it dry outside.

Unfortunately, i wanted the powerwasher to take all the paint off, but it didnt. Now I have to figure out how to strip the remaining paint, and I was wondering if you guys could help me out.

I originally wanted to powder coat the frame, but expenses wont let me at this time. I bought a couple cans of rustoleum automotive primer, and plan on putting 2-3-4 light coats onto it before i use the gloss black enamel i bought for the finishing coats.

Whats the proper procedure for stripping and preparing the frame for a primer coat? I know preperation means everything, thats why im asking the best, you guys.

After its ready to be primed, how many light coats of primer and then the finishing paint should i apply?

Thanks for your help,
MIke

[TheOlderFox]

I use a wire brush or sand paper to rough up the frame so the primer will stick. Put a little more time on anything that is rusty. If your frame isn't too bad, use 2 coats of primer and 2-3 coats of color. Light coats prevent running. Good luck and take your time.

[sandpuppi101]

Strip your frame with a product called Tal-Strip ,that will do you good follw the directions, and after you do that you"HAVE TO" put on the primer immediatly or rust will start.

[Derrick Adams]

Don't waste your time and effort with that stuff. Look up the local sandblaster in the yellow pages. Run it over to him and have it blasted. Usually doesn't cost more than $20 and well worth it. You'll spend $10 on stripper and sandpaper!

Once it's blasted, blow it out real good and scuff it with mild sandpaper, say 180grit. Pick up a spray-can of "Self Etching Primer" from your local Napa store. (a must for bare metal). Shoot that on and then spray your black on it.

From there, what I would do is, talk to one of your local body shops and ask them if they would shoot a coat of clear on it the next time their spraying. (most times they'll do it for $20 or less)(especially if it's a body shop you use occasionally!)

You'll end up with a frame that looks as good as new!

[Huffa]

Don't waste your time and effort with that stuff. Look up the local sandblaster in the yellow pages. Run it over to him and have it blasted. Usually doesn't cost more than $20 and well worth it. You'll spend $10 on stripper and sandpaper!

Once it's blasted, blow it out real good and scuff it with mild sandpaper, say 180grit. Pick up a spray-can of "Self Etching Primer" from your local Napa store. (a must for bare metal). Shoot that on and then spray your black on it.

From there, what I would do is, talk to one of your local body shops and ask them if they would shoot a coat of clear on it the next time their spraying. (most times they'll do it for $20 or less)(especially if it's a body shop you use occasionally!)

You'll end up with a frame that looks as good as new!

Got to agree with ya Derrick. I always did it the "old fashion" way except one time with sandblasting. So, so much easier and it gets every nook and cranny.

Self etching primer........never used the stuff. Always learn something. I'll have to give it a try.

Will the frame last (not rust) a few days if you can't get to priming it right away or is that a "must do" as soon as you get it home?

Speaking of painting............I just did this brake hub with Rustoleum Hammered Paint...........use for rusted metal (although there was none) and needs no primer.

Hey, I missed some rust on the brake cable lever! Damn digital cameras! :D

[wanta86r]

my best advise to anyone reading this thread is this:
-get the frame sandblasted, most effective way to prep a frame and not very costly
- have it powdercoated- ive done many 3 wheeler frames, and its never been more than 150, and that was with a bunch of extra misc stuff added. powdercoating should make your trikes frame last another 20 years and look good doing it. ive been powdercoating all of my trike parts for the last few years, and im 100% sold on the process, paint isnt durable enough for frames.

[straight pipe]

bare metal starts to rust in about 5 hrs. what i do is right after you sand the metal down after blasting hit it with etch. what etch primer does is bite into the metal and have zink that helps with corrosion. if you paint it right away you don't sand the etch primer . give the etch one medium light coat...that's all it takes than paint. if you are planninig to leave the etch for a few days before paint give it a coat or two more and use a scotch brite to rough it up before squirting it.use a quality spray bomb to coat it with if you do it at home and give it like 4 medium coats istead of one heavy coat.as for clear coating it i can't see the benefit of that cause clear is designed to top coat base not spray bomb and adheision would be a concern. .if you want to go automotive that get a body shop to spray it with a urathane black single stage. dupont has a really tough paint called imron. it is more money but tough as nails. but all in all i would not be afraid of bombin it. if you get a shop to blast it ask them if they can paint it too...that would be easier. but the ultimate IS powder coating.