PDA

View Full Version : Screws on the cam cover!?!?



J.D.
01-22-2003, 08:54 PM
This is pretty stupid, in my opinion. I've never really given my engine a good look, but there's screws holding the outside of this thing together! What's up with that? Why didn't Yamaha go with like Allen head screws, or even just standard bolts? I was following my manual and taking off the cam chain cover, and one of the screws came off fine, and the other is stuck in there and will not come out! I've tried spraying WD-30 into the hole to get it unstuck, but all that keeps happening is I strip the head of the screw more and more each time I try to take it out. Does anybody have any suggestions for taking these screws out? When I was removing the motor from the frame, one of the starter bracket screws that mounts into the engine, it's stuck too....one came out fine, the other is stuck in there, just like my cam chain cover. Sorry if I seem like an amateur...it's because I am! This is my first time doing anything like this, and I just can't afford to bring my engine to a shop and have it redone. So if I seem too stupid in my questions, please try to ignore it.

Tri-Z dude
01-22-2003, 09:04 PM
use an impact driver
thats what i always use for all screw on my motors
Ben

hrc200x
01-22-2003, 10:12 PM
If you can get a vice grips on the head of the screw that might get it loose if the impact driver doesn't work.

Lots_Of_Nothing
01-22-2003, 10:13 PM
thats a yamaha for you!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

J.D.
01-22-2003, 10:20 PM
vise grips, eh? I never even thought about those! does anybody know if I can buy replacement bolts that instead of phillips heads, they have either allen key heads or just hex heads?

waterfowler
01-22-2003, 10:25 PM
Use either an impact driver or drill into the screw enough to get a tool called an easy-out into the pilot hole. Another less known way is to take a dremel and flatten two sides of the screw opposite each other and then take vise-grips and lock onto it. Do not try to use your hand to unscrew it, what you want to do is use a hammer and hit it quickly just to break it free then you can use this or another method to get it out. This last option depends on how well you can get at the screw. Good Luck

freaksfix
01-22-2003, 10:53 PM
What I always do is, put the screwdriver in the slots and give it a nice wack w/ a hammer, then put vicegrips on the screwdriver handle horazonaly put all your wieght down on the driver and push on the vicegrips w/ your other hand. They come every time for me... Good luck

J.D.
01-22-2003, 11:52 PM
thanks guys I appreciate the tips a bunch. hopefully someday I'll be able to give other newbies tips too :rolleyes:

KLT Man
01-23-2003, 12:34 AM
IMPACT DRIVER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kawasaki is like this too. Impact driver will get it loose.

TimSr
01-23-2003, 12:50 AM
Impact Driver

ATCnut
01-23-2003, 01:12 AM
I agree that the impact driver is the best thing to use in the beginning. If the head of the screw strips out, I use a small pin punch. I make a dent on the outer edge of the screw, and then angle the punch so that when I tap on the punch it turns the screw head.

TimSr
01-23-2003, 09:29 AM
If its stripped, you make a cross cut with a hacksaw, and use a flat blade tip on your impact driver.

Jeb
01-23-2003, 09:44 AM
To answer one of your other questions, yes you can switch those bolts to either allen-head or hex-head bolts. I always hated those yamaha philips head screws too. I believe that typical thread for the case and cover bolts is M6x1. Typically, the Hex Heads on an M6 bolt will be 10mm. There are some M6 hex-head bolts with 8mm heads with a little flange. that's what Kawasaki used on the Tecates and KXs. Try your local hardware store or an industrial supply store. Take your stock screws with you for length and to verify your thread size.

Hope this helps! :)

J.D.
01-23-2003, 01:17 PM
Use either an impact driver or drill into the screw enough to get a tool called an easy-out into the pilot hole.

http://www.cvfsupplycompany.com/7pceasoutscr.html
Is this a good kit to buy? Seems cheap enough.

waterfowler
01-23-2003, 01:36 PM
That's not a bad price for an easy out. I use them all the time because their easy to use and bolts are cheap to replace. If you go to craftsman (sears) you will pay at least twice that much.

J.D.
01-23-2003, 03:01 PM
With it being so cheap do you think it'll be some cheap quality tool that'll break on 2nd or 3rd use? Or should I go for it?

Joel85350X
01-23-2003, 03:08 PM
Goku, I have just recently replaced all of the engine bolts on a 1972 Honda 350-Four motorcycle that were philips head before, and were supposed to be torqued to 30 ft-lbs. Give me a break. Out of 48 that I replaced, I had to drill 29 out. I replaced them with black oxidize alen head bolts, they look super nice with all of the polished aluminum.

I am also doing the same conversion to my 350X, except I am replacing every bolt on the whole bike and puting in the same black oxidize allen heads. They are really nice, very strong, and if you get them from fastenal, they are cheap. I got $15 worth of hardware store priced bolts for $2.41 at fastenal.

Pics will be on my website soon.

J.D.
01-23-2003, 03:18 PM
That sounds great! Does fastenal have a website, or is it a store? If it's just a store I doubt I'd have one anywhere near where I live...Nevada sucks.

hrc200x
01-23-2003, 04:47 PM
I havn't had good luck with easy outs, 3/4's of the time when I use them they break off in the bolt. And drilling the easy out does not work.

J.D.
01-23-2003, 06:02 PM
I see. What method do you recommend hrc200x?

Joel85350X
01-23-2003, 06:30 PM
Fastenall is a worldwide supplier of 'anything fasteners' to companies and contractors, and will also sell through retail. There should be a dealer near you. I know for fact they are nationwide. Look online.

The easy-outs are sometimes easy, sometimes hard to use. The best thing to do from the start is use a GOOD set. Cheap Homier sets may work for some appliactions, but why risk breaking one off in a bolt if you THINK it is good enough? Spend some money and get a good sears or snap-on set. Also, a good centering hole in the bolt before you easy-out is important too.

J.D.
01-31-2003, 02:13 AM
I got to looking through my Dennis Kirk magazine at the tools, and I saw a hand impact driver for 14 bucks. Is that what y'all meant by using an impact, or were you talking like the pneumatic air drills? I've always known the pneumatics to be called impacts..if you meant the hand impacts, how do they work without stripping the phillips head?

Howdy
01-31-2003, 11:48 AM
I got to looking through my Dennis Kirk magazine at the tools, and I saw a hand impact driver for 14 bucks. Is that what y'all meant by using an impact,

Yep, that tool is the most handy tool you can own. I have 3-4 of them and have wore out 2-3 times that many. Buy one and you will see how handy they are. You local hardware might have one for the same money ( saves on shipping cost also ).

FYI, My last 2 cost me $7 each at a tool sale. Those 2 probably have saved me $50 in broken easy outs.

Just my 2 cents.
Howdy

J.D.
01-31-2003, 01:05 PM
Thanks Howdy. I think I'll look and see around town if I can't find one first I'll just order it from DK.

samster143
01-31-2003, 06:44 PM
When using the easyouts be careful not to break them off into the screw. As you try to turn the easyout,... if you feel it is about to break.....IT IS! Always use the biggest one that will fit into the screw! If you go easy with them, they should work for you. I hope this helps.

KLT Man
01-31-2003, 10:22 PM
Impact Drivers are available at most auto parts stores in the tool section. :-D

kwit
02-02-2003, 08:34 PM
What I always do with those striped bolts whne all e fails. Get a dremel tool and cut a slot in it and then take trailprotrailpro chances with a flat haed and a large wrench around the handle for torque.