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Tri-ZNate
02-28-2005, 03:21 PM
Ok I have never had to mess with the carb before but there is alot of gas commin out my over flow so I figure I need to clean it. I need instructions on how to do this, including taking it off the trike. If you could tell what to watch out for like losing any springs that would be helpful as well. Oh and it is a carb off an SX.

Dirtcrasher
02-28-2005, 05:20 PM
Your in luck - I cut and paste a post I made on this a year or so ago.....




Ive had like 3 people leave me there toys lately for bad gas problems or they think they need a new carburetor - I'm no expert, feel free to add to this but I just wanted to share my experiences. Just keep your fuel clean, run an inline filter and don't leave gas in there over the winter and you will avoid most problems. Clean your trike and the carbs outside before you start removing it.I use a well lighted table away from everyone and everything - a white rag to lay everything out in order is helpful along with a manual.

Rebuild kits are generally just orings, jets sometimes, gaskets and a new air/fuel screw. These screws if overtightened do get bent at there tip and bad gas eats the brass - either one will stop them from working correctly. There are no other magic parts in a rebuild kit.

Make sure you completely remove EVERY single jet (they are all just threaded in - no cheap screwdrivers on the brass!!), needle valve, air screw etc and clean them each by themselves in gas and then carb cleaner. Then you leave the carb body immersed in gas before you go at it with the carb cleaner. If your mother yells at you for cleaning with gas, forget the gas part. Put the plastic extension on there and completely soak and squirt through every single passage etc - the carb should be naked of all moving parts and pieces. Carb cleaner in your eye really really really hurts so I'm just warning you. Compressed air is very helpful but a good can or 2 or carb cleaner blasted through also works and evaporates quickly. I use a qtip in the larges passages but even 1 strand of cotton left in any air or fuel passage will screw it up. The constant spraying of cleaner eats the most gunk. No wires or drill bits as they scratch the jets holes and this can upset the air/fuel balance - these holes are thousandths of an inch in diameter. You don't want to see one spot of anything in any inside portion of that carburetor.

When removing air or fuel screws first slowly and lightly thread them all the way until they bottom out - counting the number of turns and the original "o - clock" position they were at. Then you can back them out and clean up in there and just reinstall them and back them out to there original setting. Look in your manual just to compare that setting - 1.5 turns out actually found at 5 turns out could be part of your problem. If it does not respond correctly try the stock setting but remember that even the air box lid removed or a dirty air filter affects this setting.

Behind some screws you may find a washer, oring, spring, spacer etc etc, but just pay attention and look in there before you toss it in the bowl of gas and you see a washer fall out - at which time you panic wondering where it belongs in the carb. Jets don't get a "turns out" setting - they just thread in and tighten against the carb body or another piece of a jet or spacer etc. Jets are just hunks of brass with a bunch of holes in them - not anything like plutonium or an atom bomb.

For the most part I have never seen a worn out carb, I have seen stripped or damaged carbs but most all carbs can be saved and have no problems other than dirt, missing or damaged orings and or improper setting. Anyone buying carbs on EBAY to remedy there "broken carb" probably just needs a little TLC.

Good luck


As far as removal from the sx. Get the clamps off or loose and out of the way, take the 2 airbox bolts out and slide the box up out of the way. Remove the black side cover, pull the cable out of the arm, then unthread the cable from the top of the carb by spinning the cable. Then turn the carb about 30degrees and it comes out pretty tight from the top. Not an easy carb to get out.

hrc85250r
02-28-2005, 06:56 PM
to clean your carb take the float bowl off and clean it until its shiny, save your gasket and/or o-ring, take out the main jet spray it with carb cleaner or wd-40 or something and blow it out with the compressor and hold on tight so it doesnt blow it away, hoold it up to the light and make sure you can see through it good, and do the same with the pilot...if anything else needs to be cleaned, just pull it apart and clean it, have a diagram handy to help with reassembly...

Tri-ZNate
02-28-2005, 09:03 PM
Well Obviously I had never done this before. I had a fun time. Took roughly 4 GOD D~~N HOURS TO CLEAN THAT THING! I will deal with pistons, cams, repairing every little thing on my SXs, But never will I deal with a carb. My uncle repairs ATVs for a living so he can clean it from now on. :) Oh man I hated that thing. Oh and when I was done it still leaked a little out the over flow so I half assed it and shoved a screw up there. If I screw something up I make sure its done right. :D


The most time consumeing part was putting the carb back on the trike and taking it off as well.

DeePa
02-28-2005, 10:52 PM
i just dug into my carb from the 200s, and boy, does that carb cleaner smell.

monster 84r
07-14-2005, 02:04 AM
where can i find a diagram of how to dissassemble and reassemble the carb on my 84 250r? oh, and how can i tell the size of it and if its aftermarket? its a keihin pj, did these come stock on the 84 r? thanks for your insight

Tri-ZNate
07-14-2005, 07:42 PM
You might want to make your own thread. then your sure R ppl will see it.

monster 84r
07-14-2005, 07:59 PM
i already did, but not too many people care about the air cooled r's. if all else fails ill plug the overflow tube or keep the petcock 'off' and ride till it sputters, hit it to 'on ' for a sec then to 'off' again

bigredhead
07-14-2005, 08:11 PM
Don't plug the overflow.. unless you don't have an airbox !!!

it has to go somewhere and the overflow lets it get out where it should.. fix the problem propery.. and thank me later ! LOL...

if the overflow is plugged and gas still pours thru.. it's either going to end up into the cylinder and fill the bottom end on a 2 troke.. or in the tranny on a 4 stroke. or in the airbox creating a dangerous problem in a backfire situation.

You want to hope that it was not overflowing bad enough to create this problem.