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phatcat600
02-24-2005, 07:02 PM
Im gonna order a 14t front sprocket and 38t rear sprocket today and I was wonding what chain I need? Im going to get a DID non-o ring chain.

Is the 520 the right one? How many links do I need?

How big of a loss in acceleration will I experience with this change in sprockets?

Lasvegasrider
02-25-2005, 12:40 AM
I have know idea on the size but all i use is non orings. i had 3 oring chains break on my 350x but never a non know idea why but i like them

x.system
02-25-2005, 01:14 AM
stock is 13 front 39 rear so you are not going to loose any top speed, you will loose low end but not alot. I am running a 15 front and a 37 rear for top speed on ice. I was running a 14, 37 and could take off in second gear but now I have to use first.

TimSr
02-25-2005, 10:08 AM
Its easiest to buy chain a little longer than what you have, and then cut it down to size. You need a #520. You save a lot of money by not buying a custon length. Id also highly suggest getting a low priced O-Ring chain. You can buy something like a cheap Parts Unlimited O-Ring chain for what you are going to pay for your "name brand" non O-ring chain, and it will last you 3-5 times longer. If you choose to use the non O-ring chain, be sure to carry the tools you need to adjust it with you in the field, because you will need to retighten it frequently. You cant afford a loose chain on 250R, because they are notorious for throwing chains, usually with dire consequences.

I have never heard of a chain "snapping" in 30 years of riding. Every time Ive questioned somebody who "snapped" a chain a little further Ive also found that the chain did not break in any way, but that the master link clip came off, then the side plate fell off, and then the master link bent at 45 degrees and came off. Chains are extremely strong, and old ones make fine tow chains, and security chains. I used one of mine to pull my van out of the mud once. Lasvegasrider, if you actually broke 3 chains, you need to either read the thread about properly installing a master link, or to stop buying plastic chains. O-ring chains are certainly not any less strong than a standard chain.

KASEY
02-25-2005, 11:20 AM
i agree,,, i have only seen broken chains on drag bikes with huge amounts of horsepower,,,,, on a stock 350x,,, never!! i am running mid range oring chain on the 500 ,, its 3 years old and is doesn't show any signs of wear at all,,,

Mike Fort Laud
02-25-2005, 11:30 AM
I run a Gold Renthal O-Ring chain and a Renthal front and Sprocket Specialists rear sprockets on my 250R. The chain was about $110. I change the chain when the sprockets wear out. I bought a couple master links, and have changed it about 5 months ago. but have not rode the bike enough to put a lot of time on this link. The O-Ring chain uses more power to turn, so a non o-ring is a better performing chain,but either way you should not break one,maybe after 10 years of riding you may wear it out.

Mr. Sandman
02-25-2005, 01:50 PM
I snapped a chain once on my R when hauling ass across a whoops section. It wasn't the cheap variety and I did have the master link on correctly but it may have been adjusted too tight. It does happen but not very often.

For maximum power in dragging or hill shooting a non O-ring will give you an edge in performance as an O-ring chain does rob some power. Enough to justify the wear factor??? You decide.

Lots_Of_Nothing
02-25-2005, 02:00 PM
Someone please explain how the non-oring chain gives better performance? I have heard this before and never heard the reasoning behind it.

Dammit!
02-25-2005, 02:02 PM
A non o-ring chain moves more freely. If you ever get the chance, pick both of them up at the same time and see how the links move. Without the o-rings though, the chain heats up more and stretches faster.

Mr. Sandman
02-25-2005, 02:05 PM
The o rings that provide the seal between plates and rollers also increase the friction between the same plates and rollers which causes the chain to be stiffer which in turn makes it harder to turn. How much power it actually robs is questionable.

OldSchoolin86
02-25-2005, 02:06 PM
DID's non O-ring chain is a LOT stronger then the O-ring. It's even stronger then the X-ring chain. The same goes for Renthal and most other chains too. You just better stock up on some chain lube and use use it.

Dammit!
02-25-2005, 02:14 PM
Tensile strength ratings for D.I.D. chains.

Standard (non o-ring): 7200 lbs. average tensile strength

ATV x-ring: 8120 lbs. average tensile strength

ERT: 8470 lbs. average tensile strength

X-ring chains have reduced friction compared to o-ring by the way. Nice compromise imo.

Lots_Of_Nothing
02-25-2005, 02:19 PM
Thanks guys. I have used both many a time, And always use o-ring now, taking links out and adjusting during every ride got old after awhile.

OldSchoolin86
02-25-2005, 02:32 PM
Tensile strength ratings for D.I.D. chains.

Standard (non o-ring): 7200 lbs. average tensile strength

ATV x-ring: 8120 lbs. average tensile strength

ERT: 8470 lbs. average tensile strength

X-ring chains have reduced friction compared to o-ring by the way. Nice compromise imo.
From the DID website:
ATV 520 O-ring: 6,830lbs
ATV 520 X-ring: 7,600lbs
Non-O-ring: 8,220lbs

http://www.didchain.com/spec.html

TimSr
02-25-2005, 03:12 PM
Denns Kirk Catalog

DID
520STD - Tensile Strength 7200 - 100 Wear Life Index ($33.99 100 links)
520NZ Heavy Duty TS 8220 - 410 WLI ($52.99 100 links)
520Vector Supreme O-Ring - TS 6830 - 2350 WLI ($67.99 100 links)
520ATV X-Ring - TS 7600 - 3250 WLI ($83.99 100 links)

Parts Unlimited
520 O-Ring TS 7400 - 800 WLI ($42.99 100 links)
520 X-Ring TS 8400 - 1200 WLI ($48.99 100 links)


Like I said, your cheapest O-Ring chain will outlast your best standard chain by a long shot. If you are snapping 7400 or 7600 TS chains in half, and and you consider an 8220 "a lot stronger" and it solves your problem, even though its wears out a lot faster, go for it. For most of us, a Parts Unlimited X-Ring chain is one of the better buys out there.

OldSchoolin86
02-25-2005, 03:35 PM
Like I said, your cheapest O-Ring chain will outlast your best standard chain by a long shot. If you are snapping 7400 or 7600 TS chains in half, and and you consider an 8220 "a lot stronger" and it solves your problem, even though its wears out a lot faster, go for it. For most of us, a Parts Unlimited X-Ring chain is one of the better buys out there.Like I said the o-ring types aren't as strong. I felt like repeating myself too, lol.

AZ250R
02-25-2005, 04:00 PM
Another thing that always bug'd me about standard chains over Xs & Os... They rattle & make alot more noise when riding. Which may equate to the sound of you wear'n that chain out a tad quicker!?!?

TimSr
02-25-2005, 04:15 PM
Like I said the o-ring types aren't as strong. I felt like repeating myself too, lol.

Really? Always?

Parts Unlimited 520 X-Ring TS 8400 - 1200 WLI ($48.99 100 links)

Dammit!
02-25-2005, 05:31 PM
I got those specs from rocky moutain atv. Should have gone straight to the horse apparently. :D

OldSchoolin86
03-08-2005, 04:02 PM
I have never heard of a chain "snapping" in 30 years of riding. Every time Ive questioned somebody who "snapped" a chain a little further Ive also found that the chain did not break in any way, but that the master link clip came off, then the side plate fell off, and then the master link bent at 45 degrees and came off.
You missed it Tim, you could have seen your first chain break this weekend. That's no master link either.