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View Full Version : Rubbing out fenders...



dblshockpower
01-25-2005, 11:57 PM
Fenders were o.k. but I wanted a almost new look so I started with 400 wet paper then 600 & man they don't look anything like when I started!!...very chalky red..but I plan on doing 1200 then 2000 then the Perfect It II fine cut...whew, this is WORK!

At what point do these go back red again?

Yamahauler
01-26-2005, 02:23 AM
I think once you get the 1000 going for a while is should start to come back. just make sure you go from only a little finer paper at a time (400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500) I jumped from 600 to 1500 because i looked everywhere for those others in waterproof and couldnt find them. It took a hell of a lot of time to get it really smoothed out though(I think a total of 10-15 hours on all the fenders from 220-1500 and compound)
another thing, my fenders were yellow so it doesnt show the chalky color as much, so it could take a little longer to get rid of it on red fenders.

TrikerR
01-26-2005, 04:31 AM
have A look at the tech tips section of the main site and theres a step-by-step guide on getting your old fenders new again.

petesatc
01-26-2005, 08:14 AM
get some Plastic Renew from PM Racing......it's great stuff.... it brought my 250r tank back to life and it will give you the red colour you are looking for......check the photo's ... the first one is the finished product the other is the half way through....hope this helps

dblshockpower
01-26-2005, 11:19 AM
Looks good, I could use it on the '03 Formans, but these big red fenders are all sanded now so probably too late for the plastic renew (lol). I do need a product link please....This is what google came up with?... http://www.properautocare.com/plastivrenew.html ... is that it?

tia
dsp

petesatc
01-26-2005, 11:47 AM
dude you don't use the plastic renew till after the sanding....it restores the colour and the shine but you still have to sand and wirewool it to take the layer of oxide off....
sorry don't know how to link but check out ebay number 4522429940

Preddy05
01-26-2005, 04:25 PM
get some Plastic Renew

i agree with him

That stuff does wonders! used it on the rear fenders for a 350x and now that they are done they do look like new!! that product is great!

bigredhead
01-26-2005, 04:51 PM
like woodworking.. you can't skip steps and expect good results.

gotta start with the heavy grid and work your way slowly to the finer ones.

Go back to the 200 and work your way up again.. not too late.

twgranger
01-26-2005, 06:58 PM
I think that plastic renew sucks!! I used a cleaner on mine after and the clear coat stuff started to peel!! That is when i decided to sell them and bought new fenders. Well worth it.

TimSr
01-26-2005, 08:53 PM
Ive done wonders on old oxidized fenders with a propane torch. I dont know exactly how its works, but when you hit the plastic with it, it brings the pigment out to the surface. It also will get rid of the white crease marks when plastic has been hard bent. You have to be very careful not to melt the plastic of course. You just lightly "brush" the plastic with the flame as though you are spray painting. I just did an old dirt bike fender tonight that was red where it went under the seat, and the rest was almost white with oxidation. 5 minutes later, and its all red.

bigredhead
01-26-2005, 08:55 PM
Done that before.

Gotta be careful not to stay in one place too long or you can warp it out some.

brush the surface and let it cool down ! got good point Tim.

ps: Experiment on old plastics if you got them !! LOL..

Yamahauler
01-26-2005, 09:38 PM
I was actually thinking about using flames on mine too, Does it have a real nice shine to it afterwards too? Mine still look dull close up

dblshockpower
01-27-2005, 12:38 AM
I'm sanding out the black mudguards right away and they look awful too..another 90min. again tonite w/800 and tomorrow I can look foward to the 1000, then 1200, 1500, 2000...so from 400 to 2000 I'll clock over 11 hrs. before I even get to the rubbing compound..this has now become a tedious boring PIA!

dsp

bigredhead
01-27-2005, 12:44 AM
But it's all about the before and after effect !

You'll have pride in it when you're done !

the mud guards might not work out so well. rubber vs plastic i imagine it would clog up the paper really quickly !

dblshockpower
01-27-2005, 12:54 AM
Hey they ruff up real good! lmao! anyway I can't get them off unless I get the drill out so I'll hope for the best....Things are really comming together now for the 84' 200es oem tires (dunlops) and muffler are here, ex. header (2) are out being acid boiled along with the footpegs, rack and rear rims...I'll paint the ex. header silver w/black heat guard and the hubs and round rim supports gloss black like the racks..not oem but all oem parts...then there's these damned fenders.

dblshockpower
02-07-2005, 01:16 AM
Well the fenders look almost new again after countless hours of sanding/polishing but I still have to get into the nooks & crannies...my dremmel tool is way to fast as it burns divets in the plastic. what does a good job around the sides for polishing?

grundlegrabber
02-07-2005, 01:29 AM
Don't use that plastic renew. It looks great for a few rides, until it starts to peel off and dull out. I used it on a few fenders and regretted it every time. I've had great results with fine steel wool, if the surface isn't too rough and the oxidation isn't too deep.

dblshockpower
02-07-2005, 01:38 AM
I'll tell ya this turtle wax polishing compound is excellent, way better than chainsaws rec on 3m perfect it II fine cut. I paid $1.39 for a 10oz tub 1/10 the price of 3m and that would freshen up fenders great with an electric polisher.

kando
02-07-2005, 04:03 AM
steel wool on mine then turtle wax polishing coumpound shined mine right up. But any scratches will have to be sanded out from 400 to 1200. To be perfect.