Aluminum frame 70

[HaggLE]

I have a 70 frame that is a hand made replica but in aluminum with some other enhancements such as:
90 rear hub and axle - This makes it wider
Hydrolic disc brake rear end
Lengthened frame for those longer legs and better handling

The engine isnt standard either. Its a 110 motor Bored AND stroked to 178cc. It will run a manual clutch and have an aftermarket exhaust (not sure from where) and a CR80 carb and a UNI. Expecting at least 20HP from this baby and with very little weight to push around.

Anyone else with interesting customisations?

[HaggLE]

Thought i would have some comments or questions by now...

[OldSchoolin86]

How about...
Wow that's one thin sleeve! :p Looks like the set up has some sweet potential.

[chris200x]

Is that gonna be for a child or you?

[HaggLE]

Thats definately not for kids! Its a weapon! It used to be together about 10 years ago and pulled it apart to fix a big end rattle. I was 10 back then and thought it was awsome and still think it is.

[Darius1502]

Yeah I don't think I have ever seen an ATC 70 with 100 extra cc's that would a bad ass and fast as heck trike. Fast comparatively speaking especially when you consider horsepower to weight.

I can't wait to see if finished. How do you bore a 110cc (108cc or so) to 178cc's thats quite a bit.

[jmsmilin]

here is my 110 70, too bad they didnt copy a full suspension framein alum. like mine!

[HaggLE]

Yeah I don't think I have ever seen an ATC 70 with 100 extra cc's that would a bad ass and fast as heck trike. Fast comparatively speaking especially when you consider horsepower to weight.

I can't wait to see if finished. How do you bore a 110cc (108cc or so) to 178cc's thats quite a bit.

Ok, you missed something, its bored and STROKED!
It has been bored from 52mm (actually 50mm, im using a 90 cylinder) to 61.5mm and the stroke is changed from 50mm to 61mm. You cant get that kind of capacity without stroking it. Actually its 181cc, i miss calculated before (forgot the .5mm). As mentioned before, the sleeve is very thin and you cant go any bigger than that. Its running a spacer under the barrel to compensate for the longer stroke.

I dont think you can buy stroker kits for them anymore but a VERY VERY GOOD machine shop could do the job but it will cost you big time. Alot of accuracy and experience is required to re-machine a crank.

You also have to make a crankcase breather to allow for the extra capacity.

The high/low range gearbox has been removed completely as that kind of horsepower chews them up.

And thats how its done.

[Rex Karz]

Where do you get pistons and rods ?
Jimsmilin, is that a honda motor? Lifan?

[HaggLE]

Running a standard rod (90 i think, im sure thats what the crank was originally) and the piston is some aftermarket thing, venolia or something i think they are called.

[Rex Karz]

So, when they machine the crank do they build up material on one side before they machine? I thought the only way was by machining the rod journal and ending up with a smaller rod journal and they would use a special rod. OK, just very interested, I have 2 110's and would love to have an ATC110 with 15 hp or so, that would just KILL!
BTW, what is the stock 110 HP supposed to be?

[HaggLE]

There is two ways to stroke a crank.

The first one is to have an offset crank pin made. This means that the part that the con rod runs on isnt inline with the hole in the crank wheels so therefore giving you a longer stroke. This is the cheaper way of doing it.

The other way (also known as the proper way) is to remove the crank pin, weld up the holes in the crank wheels and redrilling them further out on the crank wheels. This way requires alot of skill and engineering (and money). This is how my crank has been done, I bought it already done.

I think the specs are 7.5 HP(DIN) @7,500 rpm but dont quote me

[jmsmilin]

mine is the Lifan, and it bolted right in