View Full Version : Quick carb Q. in or out for richer.
bigredhead
01-11-2005, 12:19 PM
Ok... i read the entire manual, searched the forum, read a wack of threads. And i know i've read this before at some point... but i need to make sure of a tiny detail.
( not the idle, i know the idle is in for higher idle, and out for slower.. since it pushes the plunger up if you screw in, and lets it go down further if you counter-clock it. )
The pilot screw however. the vertical one, that is accessible with a flathead screwdriver from outside the carb... air/fuel screw? Should it go IN or OUT for richer... ?
I set it to spec... on an 82. 200, all the way in t'ill it seats, then 2 and 1/8 out. but it's running a bit lean ( white tip on plug .. after a 10 minute run off a brand new one, runing moderately hard. )
anyone .. please.
TheOlderFox
01-11-2005, 01:21 PM
In is richer. There is a small hole in the carb body that the pilot screw fills allowing less air in
bigredhead
01-11-2005, 01:36 PM
Cool..
Thank you very much !
StangLX302
01-11-2005, 02:21 PM
That will only affect the air fuel ratio at idle though. You may need to up jet it. Do you have an aftermarket exhaust of air filter on it?
bigredhead
01-11-2005, 02:54 PM
All stock. exhaust and filter.
Might have to lower the clip a notch.. i have it on 2nd from top right now. Just put in a rebuild kit and used a vernier caliper to adjust the float exactly at 12.5mm so my float should be ok !
HaggLE
01-11-2005, 04:11 PM
The smoothness of the idle is adjusted with the screw you are talking about. It also affects how well it comes off idle. To get this right, with the engine warmed up and idleing (about 1500rpm), turn the screw in till it starts to faulter, then turn it out till it starts to faulter. The midpoint between the two is right. When you are adjusting this screw, it takes a few seconds for a reaction so turn it slow. You may need to readjust idle speed after adjustment.
The next thing to get right is the main jet. This is only on flat out revs. If it runs smooth up top when riding then its likely right. You cant go by judging whether the plug is white because only fuel with lead in it will give you a white plug with a lean mixture. Depending on the fuel but usually plugs go orange if its lean and black if rich. Find a straight and get a few gears up and hold the throttle flat out till its reving high and then hit the kill switch and grab the clutch. Check the plug and its should be marginally orange.
The needle affects everything inbetween idle and full throttle. If when you give the throttle a quick push to flat out (not too fast just smooth and about 3/4 of a second from off to on) and it faulters then adjust the needle.
All of this can only be done when the engine is fully warmed up.
bigredhead
01-11-2005, 05:19 PM
The needle affects everything inbetween idle and full throttle. If when you give the throttle a quick push to flat out (not too fast just smooth and about 3/4 of a second from off to on) and it faulters then adjust the needle.
All of this can only be done when the engine is fully warmed up.
^^^THAT'S what i was looking for. I do need to richen up the air/fuel a bit since i need to just " touch" the throttle with choke on when cold and it fires right up...
But once warmed up that Quote is the 2nd problem, gonna try that later on.
I find that the " turn the screw t'ill it falters.. then go the other way.. and find the middle is kinda tricky... a little bit of a turn seems to make a pretty big difference....... or i'm doing it wrong, i'll have to try again.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH ! :beer
83185s
01-11-2005, 06:56 PM
ok so an 83' 185s...when i rev it full out and it sputters alittle bit is that getting too much gas or too little? it sounds like it wants to go higher but cant...but i got a new piston and rings for it so will that help any?? i think its runnin to lean cause it also overheated alot before i got the new piston and rings...although the spark plug is dry black
83'185s that sounds like a spark issue or too large of a main jet it normally is a 98-100 on the 185's...., as for the turning orange insted of white, maby your gas is diffrent across the pond but evey bike i have done if its lean its white and this is pump gas non ledded, just my 0.02 cents :)
HaggLE
01-11-2005, 10:04 PM
ok sounds like we have different additives in our fuel compared to you guys.
Sounds like its running rich to me. The best way to tell is trial and error. Go 5 points smaller in the main and see if it gets better or worse. Then you know whether you went the right way or not. should be around the size of 90-105. But as said before, 98-100 should be right. Slow jet should be a 38.
When turning the mixture screw, it will make a big difference but make sure that the idle is set right before you do it and it will affect the idle speed when you are adjusting. Make sure that the engine is fully warmed up this is the most important thing whenever you are tuning an engine.
bigredhead
01-11-2005, 10:55 PM
what would you compare 1500 rpm to.. not having an odometer.....
Consider a properly running motor with idle as low as possible without stalling ( if i used my SX to compare , when i start it with choke on it revs quite a bit higher until i gradually remove the choke once warmed up.... and it goes to a nice slow putputput.... from vrrrrrrrrrrrr ) would 1500 rpm be much higher?
Does that ^ make any sense?....
HaggLE
01-11-2005, 11:16 PM
I just thought of something else
Make sure that your ignition timing is set right. With the "F" mark visible in the hole your CDI spinner should line up with the line on the black pickup sensor with the spring thingo turned. This may affect the way it revs out.
If you advance too far you will hear a noise in the motor when its under load that sounds like things rattleing in there. This is called Pinking. To reduce this you will have to retard the timing (turn it the direction of the motor) or run higher octane fuel or both.
Good luck
HaggLE
01-11-2005, 11:18 PM
1500 is low.
a-camp
01-11-2005, 11:18 PM
Take a small screwdriver with you. Put screw to stock setting and clip on needle. warm up and ride. Go out a 1/4 turn and take a quick spin. Did it respond fastewr or slower. If you cant tell go another 1/4 turn . If you can feel a differance try another 1/8 turn out did it make a differance is it snappy.So from here you should know if you keep going out or back a 1/8 .If you cant tell go back to stock and go in a 1/4 and see if that helps.Dont go to far in from stock ( I think its only 1 1/4 on a R ).May need to drop clip on needle one. If you think you got it ride 10 min and give it a wide open plug check as discribed above. If you got it go another 1/2 hour and ceck it again. Where im from White is Hot Black is rich And COCO BROWN is good.
kilabeez0
01-11-2005, 11:31 PM
wow these were all the questions i was going to ask. i'm working on getting my 200x to run correctly. all the carb settings are what i needed. now about the timing, i timed it up correctly with the F mark and also adjusted the valves, however I can hear a very loud clicking sound. Would it matter if the CDI "spinner" was off 180 degrees? because you can line up the F mark and the spinner mark will be facing down. Turn the crank one more time to the F mark and it will be facing up.
kilabeez0
01-11-2005, 11:42 PM
o and making the needle clip lower will make it richer correct? because the plunger wont be going in as far?
a-camp
01-12-2005, 12:44 AM
Yes . This is what you can change for altitude as well if you dont want to rejet for 1 day ride.
Kilabeez is your cam chain tight?
kilabeez0
01-12-2005, 08:19 AM
i'll check that tonite. i moved my trike to my shop so i can mess around after work in a heated garage :)
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