86 250r tranny

[wanta86r]

i recently changed the transmission oil in my r with some honda fluid that said it was especially for cr 250's and trx 250rs. Before i changed the fluid the clutch seemed to work fine, but now when i roll it around in the garage with the clutch engaged it doesnt let the wheels spin while in gear. I havent had a chance to start the machine and ride it yet because i broke of my exhaust flange bolts while trying to replace it. my question is do you guys think i have a problem, or does it just need to be started up and warmed up to work?

[Mr. Sandman]

It sounds like your clutch isn't fully engaging. As the R ages the cable stretches, so try adjusting the cable or replace the cable if it doesn't adjust far enough. I highly doubt the new trans. oil has anything to do with it unless you put the wrong type in.

[OldSchoolin86]

You said it yourself, you need to start it up first and then see. The pre-88 250r motor had a poor design of a push rod & link for the clutch. They wear out easier. It's pretty common to update to the 88 system. It could be a couple things but if you only changed one thing I would start it first.

[wanta86r]

the cable is ok and adjusted correctly, and the clutch worked flawlessly trailprotrailpro the oil change- i guess i was just wondering if anyone else has experienced this- there were no signs of the clutch going out before

[wanta86r]

also- i didnt change the fluid because the clutch wasnt working correctly, only because i was changing all fluids in the bike

[md1985250r]

Chances are that you just need to run it for a minute to circulate the fluid. Especially if you let the old fluid drain for a long time.All the fluid will have dripped off of the clutch plates, and during the refill the clutch plates do not get covered. In my opinion you have absolutely no problem, just start the motor and you'll be good to go. GREG

[wanta86r]

thanx for all the info guys, i hope u r right greg

[ChrisD]

I think it's a combination of the two, but I have to agree with Oldschoolin on this one. The 250R motor has a couple chronic flaws. 1) the clutch basket is soft and gets grooves in it. That seems to be the problem with every clutch. You can cheat the system for a few years and file down the grooves.

2) The pre 89-89 clutch pushrod setup sucks. I replaced both of mine. The pushrod uses 1 ball bearing between the rod and pressure plate. It eventually wears and becomes less effective (on one of my bikes, the ball seized, then welded itself to the shaft). What happens is the pushrod eventually spins like a drill and wears out the pivot shaft (what your clutch cable attaches to on the motor) It's a cheesy design with a notch cut out of the shaft that is supposed to push the rod as you pull in the clutch. It wears out and you slowly lose clutch adjustability and finally the full clutch operation.

For now, you will probably start up your bike with the new oil and life will be OK for a while, but the motor is telling you something about the future of your clutch. You will eventually have to buy a pivot shaft and an 89 clutch upgrade kit (has needle bearings, rod and a new pressure plate) Your bike WILL need this eventually if you are having the disengagement problem you describe. I've had several 250Rs over the years and have come across this before. Your clutch should disengage if it's operating properly.

[wanta86r]

all of the info is greatly appreciated, however some of you seem like you are under the impression that my clutch is worn out. it is all new with about 10 hours of use- my only concern was if the fluid needed to be circulated to get the clutch wet again. unfortunately ill have to wait to find out i guess. it is very nice to have all of you guys on here offering your advise. I feel very comfortable asking questions because you guys dont make me feel like my questions are dumb. "YOU NEVER LEARN UNLESS YOU ASK" THANKS

[ChrisD]

one last thing. If your clutch was worn it WOULDN'T engage, not the other way around. If it doesn's disengage, then you have a different problem. The one explained above. Good luck!!! The R is a great bike.

[wanta86r]

CHRISD- what kind of pipe do you have on that thing? very nice trike!

[md1985250r]

I guess we should have asked , "what kind of fluid did you use?" GREG

[wanta86r]

i used some honda oil in a red jug that said it was high performance 2 stroke racing transmission oil( specifically for cr 250's and trx 250r's) i think i used the right stuff?

[wanta86r]

i could use some insight on this thread as well-
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=29723

[X2guy]

Wanta86r...I'm surprised you have not had this happen before. I have experienced what you are describing on every bike I have owned. Whether it was brand new or 20 years old. If you've ever rebuilt your clutch you will notice how the clutch plates stick together when you remove them almost as if there is some kind of suction holding them together. This is what happens when you are trying to roll you bike around in the garage in gear. The plates stick together even while the lever is held and the remaining friction between the disks make the bike difficult to move. After the bike has warmed up this effect will be much reduced.