Question about adding Performance Reeds to my 250r

[TrikeMike]

I want to put performance reeds into my 86 250r. I have looked at Rad and Boysen which both look good. Any suggestions? Also if I add reeds do I need to make any changes to my carb or exhaust. I currently have a fmf pipe on it and stock carb.
Thanks.

[RideRed250R]

stay away from the RAD VALVE, its a nice product i have it on one of my bikes but i have been informed its just a "ported" stock reed valve with carbin fiber reeds, go with the v-force its the best out there for the money its only 125 vs 140 for a Rad valve, remeber most of the pikes peak quads and i KNOW trinity uses them on their cheetah 410 banshees and they say they make the most horsepower and are a TOTALLY different then a stock reed valve were the RAD valve is just a improved stock reed valve
adam

[resto250r]

on that same note do they make both v-force and rad valves for a 83 250r. Or will a 85-86 valve work!

[TrikeMike]

Thanks, I'll definately give the v-force reeds a look. Do you need to make any carb or exhaust mods?

[Wickedfinger]

Boyesen makes an excellent product and I actually did some pre-production, ride testing for them back in 1996 on their new Radvalve for the Polaris "400" motor (thats another story I have told on here before). As far as it just being a "Ported" stock reed block - I assure you the team of engineers working up at Lenhartsville Pa. would take alot of exception to that. MotoTasinari makes a good, high quality product too in the V-Force delta's - but - personally, I would just call it a little overengineered (which I'm sure their engineers would take exception to). All they are really is a oneway valve when it comes down to it. You can easilly tell the difference between a stock motor and one with a Boyesen Radvalve installed. The engines "snap" is much improved, and you can almost feel a little "boost" when you get on the throttle and that secondary "main" petal opens all the way up. When I purchased my '00 Scrammy, I was told of the "mods" it had, and one of them was "It has a Radvalve in her". In taking her out on the trails for the first time to she what she was made off, I didn't feel that familiar "snap" and just figured I was given a little salesmans "polish". The bike ran like crap at first and I figured it was the jetting, not the reed valve. When I took the carb off and found out the main jet was at a 380 instead of the recommended 280 for a piped 400 with a 38mmTMX flatslider, I thought I had corrected the issue and didn't even think to look in the intake at the reed valve. The quad ran much better, but never really had, again, that "snap" I would have expected from a Boyesen. After taking off the carb for a second time to rejet for the winter, I decided to peer into the intake and low and behold - I saw the bullseye flow quadrant and double diamond reeds af a V-Force Delta 2 staring back at me. I can't say I'm that impressed with it and may change out over to a Boyesen valve. I've used their products exclusively in all of my two stroke ATV's and bikes over the past 20 odd years and I can't say enough about them. http://www.boyesen.com/

[Mr. Sandman]

Wickedfinger, DITTO, to what you said. Thankyou! I've used Boyesen products for many years as well and am quite impressed. That's not to say that the other products out there aren't good, but I'm sticking with the Boyesens


stay away from the RAD VALVE, its a nice product i have it on one of my bikes but i have been informed its just a "ported" stock reed valve with carbin fiber reeds, go with the v-force its the best out there for the money its only 125 vs 140 for a Rad valve, remeber most of the pikes peak quads and i KNOW trinity uses them on their cheetah 410 banshees and they say they make the most horsepower and are a TOTALLY different then a stock reed valve were the RAD valve is just a improved stock reed valve
adam

RideRed250R, not to burst your bubble here, but it seems that just about all the info you post on this board (besides being misinformation) is either something you were "informed" of, heard from someone else or read somewhere. Rather than writing something you obviously have no knowledge of, or hard facts to support your claim, your better off just reading and learning from those who do know what their talking about.
:)

[atc86r]

I run a rad valve for 01 cr250r. Works great for me. Intake on cylinder had to be ported some for it to fit.

[Apollo]

I had an 03 CR250R with Doma exhaust, Boyesen Rad 3, and the original Power Now on the air box side of the carb. That was the best combination for that year CR. I tried a V force 2 and liked my Rad 3 better. To me it had a faster, smoother and less abrupt delivery. I Know thats sounds kind of contradictry, but it just hooked up better with less wheel spin. That is Just my observation. Boyesen concentrates on the entire intake tract (unlike V-force) to make it flow fuel more evenly and efficiently. On V-force's side, practiclly all the factory riders are running Vforce reeds. On my next CR I am going to try the new Vforce3 and the latest Boyesen product. To throw a wrench in all this, I am using an ESR RB2000 reed block in my 86 ATC250R and absolutly love it. The ESR unit looks like a vforce in design, however they also send you an intake boot that matches up perfectly to the reed block. I am also using the ESR ATC 5 pipe and silencer and a 38mm Mikuni Tmx carb. To answer the other part of your question I am not sure but I do think you can run any aftermarket reed block with a stock engine. You will most likely have to rejet for it. Somebody else will have to answer that one. I do not know how Boyesen or Vforce runs in the ATC, I am pretty certain that you will like any one of these three designs.

[BIG BAD RED]

now look at all these people that think they know what is best for you...you havent even told us what your bike has on it or what type of riding you do ...:D the boysen dual stage reeds have worked best in the past for me since they give more bottom due to the thinner top reed..but this is your bike..we still need to know how u ride

[BIG BAD RED]

oh and you will need to just raise your needle a clip or 2 since there is more eficiant airflow

[OldSchoolin86]

oh and you will need to just raise your needle a clip or 2 since there is more eficiant airflow
Just curious, would he need to adjust the rest of the carb too or is just the mid-range enough like you have indicated?

[HRC1]

Just thought i'd throw in my .02 cents. I have a rad valve and researched it a bit before i got mine. It tends to work best in applications where the air intake tract isn'st straight, like the atc 250r. The boot curves a bit. And if you look inside the rad valve you'll notice that all 4 ports are different from one another. This asymetrical shape straightens the air out a bit before it hits the reeds, helping flow. It did help the snap of the machine a bit. My 85" was stock except for full fmf pipe and k&n filter. It wasn't a huge gain, but u did notice the diff. I really don't think that any reed system will differ enough that you would dislike it over another. But some verry respectable engine builders i know rank the rad valve in the top few products that actually make a diff on a 250R. Take your pic, there probably isnt a 1 horse diff between any of the 2.

[Wickedfinger]

Just curious, would he need to adjust the rest of the carb too or is just the mid-range enough like you have indicated?
...lof'nl Oldy.

[BIG BAD RED]

from my experience's and sugestions from boysen yes it is generaly the needle that needs adjusting...ocasionaly the air mixture needs to be adjusted...in extreme cases the main jet needs atention as well but that is normaly accoumpanied by major engine work done at the same time

:finger: