Timing Chain too tight !

[bigredhead]

Well.. i borrowed a feeler guauge from Rob0781 last night, was going to check my valve clearance, after removing the seat, tank, valve cover, plug, T mark cover, .. .. ...

I'm pulling on the pull cord to try and line up my T mark, and man, that sucker was hard to pull, WITH PLUG REMOVED !!!

So i'm like ???????? :evil: :evil:

Soooo.. thinking back, when i had the timing chain off the sproket last time i had a " carb problem after all.. argh.. " we put it back together and my friend had the timing chain tensioner nut and bolt, off, he flipped thru the pages of the manual real quick and just torqued it down , no torque wrench..

So, for the hell of it, i removed the top bolt, and the bottom nut was TIGHT.. i mean REAL TIGHT..... loosened it up, and the pull start got much easier to pull.

:Bounce :Bounce :Bounce

[bigredhead]

http://www.3wheeler.org/dirtwheels/6-87~tuneupindex.html
In this article...

For the timing chain tension, it says to

-start the motor, let it warm up
-remove the rubber cap that covers the adjusting bolt
-loosen the bolt a little so that the spring loaded tensioner can take up the slack
-tighten the bolt to lock the tensioner in place.

here is where i need some details.

when you remove the rubber cap, you have 2 bolts there, the top one and the bottom one, does the top one do the adjustment or does it only lock down the bottom one?

And if i understood correctly, the botom bolt is the one that needs to be set to 11-16 ft lbs at 1400 rpm... not the top one ????? is this correct. or am i all wrong ?

[bigredhead]

oh.. and another thing.

After slacking the tension a bit, it rides much better, it will actually rev out 5th gear now, before it was bogging down on 5th and unless i had really smooth road i had to go back to 4th.

I noticed now that when i slow down and go thru the gears to first, using the engine compression to slow me down, it will give off a wheeeze pop kinda back fire.

Valve adjustment? or related to carb settings?