PDA

View Full Version : What is proper mix ratio for an 84 250 Tecate



skeeter
10-05-2004, 01:24 PM
I was told 32:1 and it smokes pretty heavy at that, is this the correct
mix ratio? What 2 stroke oil does everyone like?

hondatrikesrule22
10-05-2004, 02:20 PM
It just depends on the quality of the oil.Run a good synthetic 2 stroke oil, and mix it at 50:1.

bonkers_200s
10-05-2004, 02:21 PM
That sounds about right, but every 2 cycle motor is differant, some like it a little lean, some like it heavy, i preffer a misquito killer rather than one you ran too lean and blew up.

if the smoke is that much of a bother there is smokeless 2 stroke oil, its usually blue instead of the normal green

OldSchoolin86
10-05-2004, 02:54 PM
I run Klotz Super Techniplate in my 2-strokes and depending on the machine I will run 40:1 or 50:1. I know the Tecate would be fine with a 40:1 mix with super techniplate and most likley could handle 50:1. I ran 50:1 in my R and the cylinder would last longer then when I was running 32:1 with Wal-Mart type premium oils. Spend the money and you'll have longer life, better performace and you will use less oil. Shop around there are a few good oils out there.

coyote killer
10-05-2004, 09:26 PM
I use Yamalube 2R mixed at 40:1 in my 250R and YZ490 and it works great....

AirDonk
10-05-2004, 09:37 PM
I use a Shell synthetic or semi synthetic (depending on the money situation at the time) at 40:1, it runs great.

cliff2302
10-06-2004, 01:23 AM
I use klotz in my 86 tecate, mixed at 32:1, and it runs great. no fouling, and not a great ammount of smoke once it is warm. Even at 32:1 it is a very clean running trike. i

TimSr
10-06-2004, 09:09 AM
One thing to look at if you have excessive smoke is tar buildup in the pipe, especially the packing material in the silencer. Silncers can and should be repacked periodically. Once you get il in them, they will smoke forever, no matter what mix you run. My Z was next to smoke free with Blue Marble at 50:1 until I had that little incident with the cracked case. Now it smokes like a diesel bus, and will continue until I repack it, and burn all of it out of the pipe.

Tri-Z Pilot
10-06-2004, 09:20 AM
That sounds about right, but every 2 cycle motor is differant, some like it a little lean, some like it heavy, i preffer a misquito killer rather than one you ran too lean and blew up.

if the smoke is that much of a bother there is smokeless 2 stroke oil, its usually blue instead of the normal green
The more oil you mix with your gas, the leaner you are actually running. You see, it is the gasoline that cools your piston, not the oil. You are actually running richer at 40to1, then you are at 32to1. You need to find the right balance though because, the less oil, the faster your cylinder wears, and the more gas, your piston runs cooler, I myself run Benol at 32to1, gotta love that smell.
Skeeter, I think either your jetting is rich, possibly a dirty air filter, but TimSr is probably right, if that tecate is as you describe it, it has probably never had the silencer repacked. Why dont you take the silencer off (make sure no one is sleeping), and start it up and see if it smokes then. Wait a minute, I( dont want to scare you, but it could possibly be a bad crank seal sucking in tranny fluid, I would watch your tranny fluid just to make sure that that's not the problem.

TimSr
10-06-2004, 10:24 AM
The more oil you mix with your gas, the leaner you are actually running. You see, it is the gasoline that cools your piston, not the oil. You are actually running richer at 40to1, then you are at 32to1. You need to find the right balance though because, the less oil, the faster your cylinder wears, and the more gas, your piston runs cooler, I myself run Benol at 32to1, gotta love that smell.


Ive heard this theory many times before and could not disagree with it more. Its based on the idea that if there is more oil, there is less gas, and therefore it is leaner. Richer or leaner refers to air/fuel ratio, not air/gasoline ratio. Neither gas nor oil "cools your piston". What determines how hot your piston gets is the burn rate. Air accelerates burn rate, which makes lean running machines run better, but burn hotter. That is what the oxygen tank next to the acedylin tank on your gas welder is for. That is why your campfire gets hotter when you blow into the coals. Adding oil to gas retards the burn rate of the burn. If you do not change the flow of air, but run a higher concentration of oil, your fuel burns slower, and less complete. Incomplete burning results in more smoke, and more oil deposits.

I also disagree with the theory, the less oil, the faster your cylinder wears. The less friction, the longer it will last. What makes less friction? Quality of oil is certainly a major factor. The amount of oil is also crucial, but idea the more oil you add, the better is will lubricate is simply not true. Inadequate quality and amounts of oil will certainly cause a disaster. Anything over a sufficient amount of oil, will not improve lubrication, will unecessarily slow burn rate, and is expelled from your combustion chamber unburned in the form of smoke and tar. Think about it. Will your two stroke crank be better lubricated if you fill it to the top? Of course is wont since that little bit in the bottom is enough to keep it wet. More wet doesnt help if its already sufficently coated. If you have enough 2 stroke oil to suffiently coat your cylinder and crank, putting more in there wont help, but will make your fuel burn slower and make your engine run less efficiently.

Burning your two stroke oil is not desireable, but they havent found a way to lube the cylinder without that happening. All the new oil technology was based on how to keep more of that oil in the cylinder instead of burning it up and blowing it out as smoke. A key factor in new synthetic oils is that it is more burn resistant, and bonds better to the cylinder where more of it remains. The whole principal of Blue Marble is that their key additive, "Phosamid" they claim actually impregnates the metal. This is why heavy mixtures of sythetic are counterproductive, and can perform worse in heavy doses than cheap oils which will burn up faster and not leave oversufficient amounts of lubricant in the cylinder that will impede fuel burning even more.

Each brand oil has an optimum mix ratio for a specific motor. Too little oil causes insuffient lubrication, excessive heat and wear, or even meltdown. Too much causes inefficent fuel burning, which results in a loss of power, and excessive expulsion of unburned combustion byproducts in the form of smoke, and oil and tar deposits. Compensating by introducing more air into the mix (rejetting) eqates to turning up your cylinder's thermostat for a more complete burn.

Tri-Z Pilot
10-06-2004, 10:34 AM
Yes I agree, but let's say you have stock jetting, and you have no reason to change it, by mixing more oil in with your gas you are making it leaner, that is if you dont compensate the jetting for a mixture change. Your cooling system whether it be air or liquid, really has noting to do with cooling you piston, it's the incoming fuel charge. As for the lubrication, I can see the more oil you put in would cause stress more than friction. You would be stressin the crank/rod and bearings, but friction would go down because of more lubrication between the piston and cylinder, but as you said why use more than you need, so it is best to meet in the middle somewhere.

bonkers_200s
10-06-2004, 10:40 AM
lol, i have nothing wrong with my machine i was just givving suggestions, with 2-stroke motors ive had in the past they were all differant, the factory would say one thing but the motor would say something differant, you just have to find out what you trike likes the best, treat it like soft woman that cant make up her mind.


Yes you are right, rich/lean reffers to air mixture, and everyone gets it backwords, a rich motor, is heavy on air, and a lean motor is light on air.

OldSchoolin86
10-06-2004, 12:05 PM
everyone gets it backwords, a rich motor, is heavy on air, and a lean motor is light on air.
I'm sorry but that's horrible. I haven't heard something this wrong in a while.

bonkers_200s
10-06-2004, 12:16 PM
oh trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro, didnt even realize i typed it backwords, lol

OldSchoolin86
10-06-2004, 12:36 PM
LOL, faith restored in bonkers!

TimSr
10-06-2004, 12:37 PM
Yes I agree, but let's say you have stock jetting, and you have no reason to change it, by mixing more oil in with your gas you are making it leaner, that is if you dont compensate the jetting for a mixture change. Your cooling system whether it be air or liquid, really has noting to do with cooling you piston, it's the incoming fuel charge. As for the lubrication, I can see the more oil you put in would cause stress more than friction. You would be stressin the crank/rod and bearings, but friction would go down because of more lubrication between the piston and cylinder, but as you said why use more than you need, so it is best to meet in the middle somewhere.

Simply put, if you add more oil to your gas, it does not change the fuel/air ratio, and does not make it leaner or richer. It does slow the burn rate of the fuel resulting in what looks like a richer condition.

The hotter a motor runs, the faster it burns fuel, and the leaner it will look. Your fuel charge insignifanctly cools your piston. Your piston will reach the ambiant temperature of the inside of the burn chamber within a few degrees. You can affect the piston's temperature by three things. 1. You can control the temperature of the fire. Leaner, which means less fuel and more air makes a hotter fire, (like blowing in a campfire). Adding oil to gas, slows burn rate, and reduces the temp of the fire. 2. You can control the temp of the chamber walls with cooling fins or water jackets, which results in reducing the temp of everything going on inside that chamber. If you dont believe liquid cooling affects piston temperature, I posted a picture of a piston that melted as a result of an impeller failure a while back. This is why bike run so much "richer" until they reach operating temp. 3. The final factor is friction. This is what makes the quality of your cylinder wall lubricant is so important, as well as making sure you are getting enough of it. Less friction=less heat.