Rear Brakes 200es big red.

[bigredhead]

Hi . !!!

Nice forum BTW.

Well.. here goes, been searching and reading a few hours so far... and need a few answers.

Got Big Red a weeks ago, was in fair shape, needed some TLC. :D

So far.

- changed chank oil
- changed shaft oil
- replaced spark plug
- cleaned air filter
- welded frame wich was badly rusted out on bottom.
- Welded foot guards ( previous owner installed, but were broken.. were welded to a protective plate under trany, heavy, but SOLID )
- Swapped rear tires from another atc200 i got with the house i bought in aug last year. another project.. needs gas tank and carb, and now has 2 bald tires.. :rolleyes:
- Patched both fenders using red crazy carpets nuts and bolts and washers.

And now... last night, spent 2 hours, 6 beers, 1 bandaid, and a can of wd-40 and alot of bad words trying to remove the front axle from the fork to replace front tire... it won't give..

Tonight.. i'm getting a 12 pack and a torch. the spacer/sleve that goes between the fork and hub seems to be rusted on real good....... this will involve vise grips and a bigger hammer i guess.. from what i've read on other posts.

My biggest questions is this.

Got new shoes for the back brakes, and she's shaft drive.. do i need to remove the 2 huge nuts that hold on the rear axle in order to remove the brake housing over from the rear end ? or will the cover come off over the nuts ?

and.

if i have to loosen the nuts.. do i need to mark them ( position wise ) before i take them off ? my rear is nice and straight and i don't want to mess that up !


:beer


:TrikesOwn

[bigredhead]

oh.. another quick Q.

any suggestions for places to buy the tech book ?

claymer or haynes.. or factory honda ?

and what should i expect to pay for one ?


I know i'll have to do alot of different jobs on this bad boy and the manual would be a gerat asset !!!


or.. uhm... if anyone knows of a download ????? :rolleyes:

[Mobular]

The 2 large nuts on the axle are the axle lock nuts. They do need to be removed to get to the brake drum and shoes. The nuts do not need to be marked, but must be reinstalled properly. The first tightens the drum/collar/axle together, and the second nut must be tightened against it to lock it all in place.
Best and cheapest place to find a manual is on eBay, or if you don't mind paying the price, and M/C shop can bring it in for you.
I highly recommend that it be the first thing bought for any trike!

[bigredhead]

Cool !!

thank you
thank you
thank you !!!

i'm gonna get the book, but would like to replace the shoes tonight !!..hehe.
:Bounce :Bounce :Bounce :Bounce


Now if i can manage to get the F!@#%% front axle out of the forks.. i'm all set to ride ! weeeeeee... :)

[bigredhead]

oh.

how tight should one tighten the 1st bolt.. as hard as you can by hand ? or just t'il you run out of threads lightly... or use a wrensh to torque it down ?

I read in another thread to just hand tighten it.. but another opinion would be great ! :p

[Mobular]

Use a wrench, and snug it well. And use 2 wrenches to tighten the two nuts togehter.

[atcmatt]

Gday,

Good luck with that 200es. They are awesome! With your front axel, try heating up the fork leg where it is stuck (it will burn the paint so be be prepared to repaint em) then spray wd-40 into it and get a engineers hammer and just tap it continuously, keep heating, spraying and tapping. The same thing happened on my 200es. Just keep on tapping cause it will come out eventually. You may screw the threads up a little but that can be fixed with a tap and die set. I say use a steel faced hammer and not a rubber one because the shock from the blow will be soaked up by the rubber one. So its almost as if you have done nothing, wheras the steel head makes the rust vibrate and loosen up.

Goodluck,

Matt

[Mobular]

You'll also find that the collar (spacer) between the 2 bearings (front and back) will most likely be rusted to the axle. These take some work, and may even need a press to coax them free. Here's another great place to use Never-Sieze wen puting it back together. You'll never have a rust/sieze problem again!

[bigredhead]

SUCK-CESS ! :beer

Phew...... what a job.

1st tried the butane torch... nodda. :Evil
2nd borrowed neighbors propane tank and torsh.... ;)
2rd GOT A BIGGER HAMMER.

and the icing on the cake ????

Support the other side of the fork ( using one's foot ) so that it don't move and when you hit the axle , the energy goes towards the rusted spacer and not absorbed by the flex in the other shock !!!!!!! and voila !

Greased that puppy up like no tomorrow.

Removed front wheel from 82 ATC200 ( which had brand new tire only 100 Meters on it from last year with rust in carb before it quit !! :Evil )

Soooo.. bolted on break assembly from the ES onto the new tire/rim from other bike.. and put her back on !

BINGO. :TrikesOwn

THANKS for all the help guys.. much appreciated ! :D :D :D :D :D

[bigredhead]

You'll also find that the collar (spacer) between the 2 bearings (front and back) will most likely be rusted to the axle. These take some work, and may even need a press to coax them free. Here's another great place to use Never-Sieze wen puting it back together. You'll never have a rust/sieze problem again!

That ^^^ was exactly the problem !! no need for the press tho..

Qestion about this.. how the hell do you get the thing in the press when it's still attached to the bike ???? portable press? I thought those suckers were floor standing ?

* mental picture of bike on wheelie with front wheel twisted into machine.. :D

[Mobular]

Glad to be of service! :beer