PDA

View Full Version : My 1st 2 a stroke. 250r need help!



WannaRace400ex
06-26-2004, 09:44 PM
Ok, I just went and got a 86' 250r I was just going to look at it, I ended up taking up a road and back, and fell in love with the way it scared the trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro out of me. I got it for $400, the rear fender is half broke, rear bar is gone and the carb leaks gas from the over flow everytime you turn the engine off. But the thing that got me the most is that it has no intake tube but it still runs awsome. I HAVE NO IDEA ON HOW TO MIX OIL. Can someone tell me how to mix the oil correct, it smokes and went threw 2 plugs already so that has to be the problem. Can someone tell me like how many cups to a gallon of gas? And what grade of fuel to use? I may sound stupid but I just need to know because I dont have any idea.
Thanks ALL
Eric

TimSr
06-26-2004, 10:02 PM
Premium pump gas is a good default. You may find you dont need it later on, but thats a good palce to start. As fas as oil mixing, its best to run whatever the last guy ran for starters, but since it sounds like you dont know that, a general rule is 20:1 for general purpose 2 cycle oil, 32:1 for factory brands of ATV/motorcycle 2 cycle oil, and 50:1 for Premium hi performance synthetic 2 cycle oils. Any shop sells a Ratio-Rite cup that has everything marked on it. If you dontr have one, youll have to do the math. There are 128oz in a gallon. Divide that by the high number in ratio, and that will give you how many ounces of oil per gallon. Example: 128/50 = 2.56 oz. per gallon if , mixing 50:1, 4oz if mixing 32:1, and 6.4oz if mixing 20:1.

WannaRace400ex
06-26-2004, 10:07 PM
OK, thank-you very much. That helps a ton. Now, I still cant figure out why it runs great when its not hooked up to the airbox.
Thanks
Eric

atc krazy
06-26-2004, 10:07 PM
good find 400$ that is cheap yah just listin to what he said

TimSr
06-26-2004, 10:18 PM
OK, thank-you very much. That helps a ton. Now, I still cant figure out why it runs great when its not hooked up to the airbox.
Thanks
Eric

My first inclination would be that the air filter is clogged and needs cleaned. That can easily cause your plug fouling too.

WannaRace400ex
06-27-2004, 09:48 PM
well I took the tank off and dumped all the fuel out and put fresh mixed fuel in and man what a world of differance not all that smoke, just a little. Is that ok? Rode all day and didnt foul a plug once. I still cant figure out why it runs good when the airtube is missing.
Thanks Eric

WannaRace400ex
06-27-2004, 09:51 PM
Also, the carb wont stop letting gas out the overflow I took the carb apart and it was clean as can be the float was good, Does anyone know if the problem can be the needle? It's set almost on the bottom notch.
Thanks Eric

Lots_Of_Nothing
06-27-2004, 09:52 PM
its running good because its running lean as hell, it SEEMS like its running great, but its actually not good for the engine, i have all the parts you could need for it, i got a PRM grab bar, intake tube, and tons other stuff for sale, drop me a PM with a list if you feel like fixing her up!

WannaRace400ex
06-27-2004, 09:55 PM
I sent you an email on all those parts already waiting on your reply.

hondaATCman
06-27-2004, 11:38 PM
The reason gas is leaking out the overflow is because the float is not nessesarily "stuck" but its not shutting completely off when the bowl is filled. Take the bowl back off and clean the needle seat out with a q-tip then bend the little piece of metal that the needle goes on until the gas stops leaking.

TimSr
06-28-2004, 11:51 AM
Also, the carb wont stop letting gas out the overflow I took the carb apart and it was clean as can be the float was good, Does anyone know if the problem can be the needle? It's set almost on the bottom notch.
Thanks Eric


The "needle" and seat being referred to is the one that the floats close. Sometimes there is a tab that adjusts at what fuel height the floats will close this needle. This is NOT the needle with the notches with the clip on it. That needle has nothing to do with bowl overflowing.

WannaRace400ex
06-28-2004, 09:00 PM
I'm confused? I know the needle thing that the float hooks to. But what part do I need to bend the part where the little needle slides onto? the little top flap thats on top of the needle?
Thanks Eric

plkmonster2
06-29-2004, 01:44 AM
Yup, bend that flap that it is hooked on to. Bend it up a tad (Toward the needle)

WannaRace400ex
06-29-2004, 05:58 PM
I bent it and now all it does is leak from all three holes now. I bent it both ways same result.

Red Rider
06-29-2004, 10:20 PM
I wouldn't have bent that tab at all till I knew what was causing your problem. While it is possible that the float level was set incorrectly (tab bent to the wrong position) to begin with, more than likely it was set correctly, and you just had some grains of sand, that made it's way from the fuel tank into the carburetor, preventing the float seat from seating properly. Now, hopefully you can get the float level set properly before that tab breaks off.

Keep in mind that a lot of people will suggest a quick fix for your troubles because they had a similar problem. While that fix worked for them, it may not work for you because you have a different problem with similar symptoms. I'm sure they're only trying to help, but sometimes they will inadvertantly steer you in the wrong direction. Good luck.

monster 84r
07-13-2005, 08:40 PM
I think im having the same problem on my 250r too. i took it out today and full throttled it to try and clean it out, but it still gushes gas from the bowl over flow. im gonna clean it out as soon as i can find a clymer manual. good luck though. you got an amazing deal on the 250r, hope you enjoy it as much as i enjoy mine.

bigredhead
07-13-2005, 09:14 PM
A little does alot when it comes to bending that tab and adjusting the float level.

You don't even really " Bend It " .. you actually " Gently push it " in a direction and check the tip of the float at the oposite end of the tab for a x mm height when at rest.

It's not impossible, but it's a fine adjusment and a careful ballance...... A manual REALLY helps in these cases.

If the rubber stopper / tip of the thing that the metal tab on the float holds ( did that confuse you ? .. ) is messed up in any way.. dry or grovved it won't stop the gas from flowing no matter what you do to the float..

wanta250r
07-13-2005, 09:54 PM
I had the mystery gas overflowing problem with my 200x also. And you know what I did to fix it....













...I bought another carburetor :w00t:

sandrooster
07-14-2005, 02:23 PM
My experience with this type of carb and fouling plugs problem.

I fought the overflowing carb issue for a year on my 85R.

After repeatedly taking apart and cleaning the carb, replacing every gasket, and buying new floats, nothing helped the problem. I even removed the float bowl so I could manually move the floats up while the fuel shutoff valve was opened. This of course would stop the fuel flow leading me to think the needle valve and seat were good to go. Replace bowl, overflow problem returned. WTH.

I finally bought a carb rebuild kit and figured out the problem. The float needle was worn out.

The new needle was different than the original and didn't have the rubber tip that I thought was the issue. The culprit was the spring loaded end pin of the needle. After comparing the old and new needle spring tension. It was obvious the old spring was too soft and worn out. Installed just the new needle, reassemble and install carb, no more overflow problem.

What was going on. With the worn out needle, the fuel flow will continue to flow into the bowl even though the floats were up. Fuel pressure would over power the needle spring. Thus resulting in the overflowing fuel.

I haven't fouled a plug since. My Rs now run with crisper throttle response.

Moose carb rebuild kits for 86-89Rs, ATC or TRX, are $16 to $18.

conig
07-15-2005, 03:49 PM
i think you should just buy a new needle it would be alot easier.

what do you mean by air tube? the tube connecting the manifold to the carb, or the tube connecting the carb to the air box? either way they need to be replaced. You could take the carb to home depot and possible find some hose to work there.

I apologize if the carb on a 250r doesn;t connect to the intake manifold via a tube I don;t have one, but im just trying to understand the problem im not getting it from the posts thaty have been made.

Fox250R
07-15-2005, 11:38 PM
My 38 stryker was leaking like sob...I opened the bowl and i found a peice of hair on the needle seat .. i cleaned it off then cleaned the carb put it back together and no more leaks :) Still dont know if its going to run rich or lean yet LOL im still working on that :)

toyvette81
07-17-2005, 09:21 AM
it blew the plugs b/c of no itake tube. my o ring was bad in my intake and the throttle would race by itsself and would blow a plud every time, get that tube or * willb e rebuilding soon or go broke on plugs, and if its ** 1st 2 stroke * may not know that * need to keep that thing raced up to keep the plugs good, all 2 strokes foul plugs if * put around, ride the heck out of it when * get it right, thats what its made 4

Fox250R
07-18-2005, 02:28 AM
ummm yeah! what he said :eek:

Mr. Sandman
07-18-2005, 05:54 PM
it blew the plugs b/c of no itake tube. my o ring was bad in my intake and the throttle would race by itsself and would blow a plud every time, get that tube or * willb e rebuilding soon or go broke on plugs, and if its ** 1st 2 stroke * may not know that * need to keep that thing raced up to keep the plugs good, all 2 strokes foul plugs if * put around, ride the heck out of it when * get it right, thats what its made 4

SAY WHAT!?!?! :wondering I made enough sense of your rambling abbreviated run on sentence to correct you on one thing, all 2 strokes DO NOT foul plugs if they are jetted, tuned and maintained properly. :welcome: