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350xman
05-30-2004, 05:04 PM
Hi Guys
I recently just repainted my 87atc200x gas tank and was going to bolt it on when I checked inside and saw some rust on the inside of the tank. The autobody shop that redid the tank for me said they had to fill it with water to pull out a couple of dents. So, I know have rust in the tank and how do I get rid of the rust. The AUTOBODY shop told me to just put gas in or spray some WD-40 into the tank and that will get rid of it. Does anyone know what is the best and safe way to clean your rusty inside of the gas tank? What are the best products and procedures to use? Please, reply to my post, thanks!
350xman

threewheelin-feelin
05-30-2004, 05:07 PM
i would let it soke in PB blaster or WD40 over night for a couple night and empty it in the morning

350xman
05-30-2004, 05:10 PM
What is PB blast and where can I get it and if I use WD-40 I just give it a good spray coating a few times?
350xman
Thanks

C W.
05-30-2004, 05:32 PM
Buy this stuff at the hardware store called osfo.But don't folow there instructions for your feul tank, do this insted.Swish around some acetone around in the tank to remove any petrolium products off so the osfo can work.Dump out the acetone it should dry out very quikly,when dry dump in a hand full of B.B.'s you know those copper heds for air rifels.Then pore in a cup or two of osfo,put the cap on and shake 5 or 10 minits.the rust will be gone or have died and turned grey.Dump all that crap out a magnet will get any pesky B.B. that won't shake out.Then swish around some more acetone to dry out the moisture in the tank from the osfo.fill with feul imedeately after this process or spray with some lubricant.Mask off the whole tank with blue masking tape before you do this ,acetone and osfo are not nice to paint but this can be done and work's.Just dont be slopy be neet. :beer

C W.
05-30-2004, 05:42 PM
Blaster is a exelent penatrating lubricant it will stop the rust wile on it,as will WD40.But the gas will wash it away instantly.Rust is like a cancer that has to be removed to be stoped.Your painters are bone heads you should be pissed.Good luck. :)

350xman
05-30-2004, 05:59 PM
Ya your right I am mad at the painters and I don't understand why they just didn't throw in a desecant bag that you get from a new running shoe to keep it dry? Thanks for all the advice. I ll let you guys know how thing go.
Thanks 350xman

leprogle
05-30-2004, 08:24 PM
someone was saying about using acid on here before, I just bought some muratic acid for my 200x tank. Is that the right stuff? they said to fill it with acid, swish around, let soak for 20-30 min, then rinse out with water, then rinse out with wd-40 to get rid of water
anybody know if I got the right acid, it was only stuff I could find?????

trailboss
05-30-2004, 10:13 PM
i had a rust problem,so i took the tank to a local gas tank repair shop.they acid washed it, soldered a few pin holes and coated the inside of the tank with a special rubberized liner for 125$ it saved my tank.

C W.
05-30-2004, 10:32 PM
osfo is short for osforic acid. It turns rust from iron oxide into iron fosfate.(kills the rust)The word osfo is what its sold as. The method of cleaning I talked about earlyer in this thred will work with muratic acid but you need to dilute the acid 50/50 with water.

leprogle
05-31-2004, 10:27 AM
So I just dilute the muratic acid 50/50 with water? good, I thought maybe I bought the wrong stuff. There's no holes in my tank, just surface rust on the inside, my dad's big red is the same way, because it sat empty. whoever invented metal gas tanks should be shot, so should the ppl that still have them and leave them empty :Evil

marshallfester^australia
05-31-2004, 10:42 AM
I use to own a panel shop (body shop) and the procedure that lerogle mapped out is correct with the acid. The acid treatment is used when a gas tank (or panel ) has had its inner or outer section birched by the oxidisation of the metal to the open air or chemical compound ( salt etc), and what CW. said is right on the ball, when the acid comes into contact with the rust it and it is left it will go black after a few hours (depending on the strength). --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------After it has been left and the rust is destroyed, wash it out with turps or fuel in case of any lose scale and then you can just fill up with fuel and away you go. I personally like the rubber liner way like trailboss pointed out and there is a kit so you can do it yourself, but be warned make sure you take the fuel cock out of the tank because once the rubber compound goes of it is like cement! Regards Fester :beer

smokeyhonda
05-31-2004, 11:02 AM
Get A kreem kit, it will have everything you need to refurbish your tank. The kit has a rust remover like discussed above but also has a plastic liner that will prevent any more rust from forming. I Kreemed my tank last year and it still looks great inside, clean and white. I recall hearing of another product that is very similar but cheaper than Kreem, maybe someone else knows of it. The kreem kit ran me about 35$.

EZ in NZ
05-31-2004, 02:40 PM
I have used the Kreem kit a few times in custom bike tanks. If you follow the instructions to the letter it works great. You get an etch acid to give the tank steel some 'bite' and then line it with the white kreem. You must get the rust out first and a good handfull of small nuts and bolts rattled around in a solution of gas or acetone will help with that. Or the acids mentioned by the guys previously.

I would NOT use Kreem at the stage you are currently at. The etch stage of the 3 stage process is vital for the Kreem to bond to the steel and almost impossible to not damage your new paint job. Trust me, I've tried it. Any etch solution that spills over your filler spout will kill your new paint job - it's aggressive stuff. Kreem should only be done on a bare steel tank and then take it to be painted. Your painters should have checked its condition for you - too late now.

Another option that will work is agitate the rust with the acid, nuts & bolts, etc and take the tank to a radiator repair shop. They can seal the inside of your tank with the liners they use, fuel won't aggravate it and you're sweet for curing the problem then.

I would call your local shops and ask if they've ever lined a Harley tank or similar before, if they've done it previously, then hopefully they'll be experienced enough to take care not to ruin your nice new paint.

Hope this helps

Andy

threewheelin-feelin
05-31-2004, 02:55 PM
id take it back and tell them dip sh*ts to fix it or pay for u to get a new one

EZ in NZ
05-31-2004, 03:07 PM
Hmmm....I should have asked but: How much rust are we talking about here?

If it's just a light coat of new surface rust from having water in it a few weeks ago - no big deal. Wash it out with the acid that was mentioned in the previous posts and you're good to go. If you have rust to the level of pitted steel, then it's been there longer than when the painter put water in your tank and even though he should have checked and pointed it out to you before taking your $$ to paint it - you can't really blame him for old rust.

If it is pitted steel - refer to my previous post.

Andy

smokeyhonda
05-31-2004, 04:53 PM
kreem kit I bought came with a bottle of masking stuff to protect the paint, you may be able to buy it alone. Try a bike shop/dealer.

350xman
06-01-2004, 01:31 AM
It's been about 4-5 weeks since I dropped off my tank to get refinished and there wasn't any rust in the tank. But , I guess after they put water in it to help pull out the dents it's been atleast 4 weeks possibly with the rust in it. I just noticed the rust this past weekend after I put the decals back on the tank and looked in side of it. If I wash it out with acid or the above mentioned methods of getting the rust out do I have to fill the tank with gas completely or can I just spray WD-40 in the tank to hold if for a few weeks until I get my motor back from the shop? Let me know what the best coarse of action is for my situation. The body shop said that I can bring it back and they ll clean it for me and hopefully they won't mess it up even worse if I take it back to them. Thanks for all the help and info on the rust in the gas tank matter to all the guys that replied.
I ll have to post some pics of my bike once it all put back together.
Take it easy!
Thanks 350xman :beer

EZ in NZ
06-01-2004, 04:14 AM
I've never used WD40 in a gas tank but some of the other guys here seem to have with sucess. You can use an engine oil/gas solution to swirl around the tank to give it a light coating for storage with no fuel in it. Just drop some regular oil (not too much)in a jar of your normal fuel, mix it up and drop it in the tank. I've parked a couple of tanks on my shelves for long term storage doing this and it works great. Then, when ready to use it again, slosh some regular fuel around inside it to remove the oil film, empty that out and you're good to go.

If the shop is offering to fix it, let them do it I would say. It will only be a little 'powdered' surface rust though after 4 weeks and is easy to get out.

BTW, most steel tanks I have ever cut up to rework have had rust in them in the top/front corners, it gets them all eventually.

Andy

trailboss
06-01-2004, 10:33 AM
prime example of why it is good to get the inside of the tank coated!!!