My BlueMarble experience

[J.D.]

When I first fired up the Z, and for about the first 5 minutes of riding it was same ol deal.....after that, it started revving a little bit quicker, and harder.....now after 25 minutes of riding it's almost like a different machine. This oil makes a BIG difference and I highly recommend it. Contact TimSr for ordering. (BTW this isn't a paid advertisement this is my personal experience that I wanted to share.)

[Rocketman]

So are you running it in the tranny or as premix?

[J.D.]

Oh sorry guess I should have been more specific, it's premix oil. I don't think BlueMarble makes 2-stroke tranny oil. I'm mixing mine at 50:1 btw.

[smokinwrench]

I told ya that was some good stuff. My exhaust smelled really bad for about 1-2 hours of ride time. It just stunk up the air. Smelled like sulfer really bad.

I had the same experience faster rapping and all around better performance.

[kimmer250r]

I've been running blue marble for over 2 years now and love the stuff. Just ask waterpumper, I was always trying to push the stuff on him! :p Anyways, it is by far the best 2 stroke oil available right now. You will normally notice more smoke for awhile until it cleans out the carbon buildup in the motor from the old oil. I gained 300 rpms topend and better starts and better throttle responce from running it in my skidoo rev. Glad to hear you tried it buu! :D

[TimSr]

Thanks guys! Checks are in the mail! Somebody charaterized 2 cycle mixtures as religions to some people, and I was one of those. After 13 or 14 years of MC1 at 50:1 I was reluctant to change, but after heairng Kimmer and some of the others talk about this Blue Marble stuff, it peaked my curiosity and I had to try it. Ive still got a 2 year old unopened bottle of MC1 on my shelf! I switched quite some time ago and never looked back. I dont have numbers, and am reluctant to toss around MFG's claims, but I have no qualms about saying it gave me gains I can feel in everything Ive run it in.

[cliff2302]

where do you get this stuff?

[F7Firecat]

Hey Cliff Tim Sr. is a Blue Marble dealer if you click on the ebay link above you`ll find there is Blue Marble in his listings & at a good price for an oil that`s ahead of it`s time I might add. Hope to hear more of the benifiets of the use of this stuff soon.

[kimmer250r]

Also check their website, www.nulubes.com and look at the dealer list to see if you have a local dealer. This will save you shipping costs and time. I usually buy one gallon local and order the rest. I see alot of bm on ebay for $20 a gallon. I know I can save money on ebay, but I don't mind paying the $35 a gallon because the stuff is worth it. They have changed the formulation a bit though. When I first started using blue marble it was almost clear with a tint of green and didn't smoke a bit after a few hundred miles in my sled. The lastest formulation seems to be different. It is a dark green like arctic cat oil and seems to smoke a little. I think they changed it to make the arctic sledders happy, because they were complaining about the cold temp pour point. It still has the great characteristics as the original, but a little smoke.

[cliff2302]

thanks guys, i'll try it once i get some money. I'm going to be just about broke after i pay for this tecate i am getting. you know us poor college kids...

[TimSr]

Just follow the link in my signature below.

[nitekrawler]

Oh sorry guess I should have been more specific, it's premix oil. I don't think BlueMarble makes 2-stroke tranny oil. I'm mixing mine at 50:1 btw.

What were you mixing it before? That could have something to do with it also. Meaning your old mix was 32:1 and now 50:1 more gas less oil :D

Flame suit on...I run AMSoil Full Synthetic for the last 2 years and love it @ $20 a gallon :D
Personally, what ever you like I guess works. Just ride!

[Troll 2]

I wonder if there's anything to this;
I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626
/////////////////////////////////////////////


Pre-mix 101

OK, looks like it's time for a little pre-mix 101. I don't usually get into ratio discussions, because mix ratios are like religions to most people, and they tend to be closed-minded on the subject, but I'll put in my $.02 here anyway.

There is a prevailing myth that less oil is better, and that the oil in the fuel is what lubricates the engine. Both are wrong. The engine is lubricated by the residual oil that builds up in the crankcase. All the oil in the fuel does is replenish this oil.

The best way to determine if you are running enough oil is to check the level of the residual oil in the crankcase. If the ratio you run leaves enough residual oil in the crankcase to cover about 1/8" of the bottom of the crank wheels, then you are fine. If you don't have that much residual oil in your crankcase when you pull the top-end off, you aren't running enough oil for your riding style and conditions.
With that said, to have that amount of residual oil in the crankcase at 50:1 (a ratio made popular by magazines and oil bottles), you can't be riding very hard, or your bike is jetted richer than necessary simply to deliver enough oil. I arrived at 26:1 for my bike with my riding style because that is the amount that gives me the proper amount of residual build-up. Small-bore engines require greater oil concentrations than larger engines to achieve the proper amount of residual build-up, because they rev higher and have higher intake velocities. Along the same lines, someone that pushes the engine harder, and keeps the revs higher, also needs to use higher oil concentrations to achieve the proper residual build-up.

To understand why the residual oil is so important, you have to understand what happens to the oil in your fuel when it goes into the engine. While the oil is still suspended in the liquid gasoline, it can not lubricate anything. It has about as much lubricity at that point as straight gasoline. When the gasoline enters the engine, it evaporates, dropping the oil out of suspension. Now that the oil is free, it can lubricate the engine, but it must get to the parts to lubricate them. The way it gets to the bearings and onto the cylinder is by being thrown around by the spinning crankshaft. Some of the oil eventually makes it into the combustion chamber, where it is either burned, or passes out the exhaust. If the combustion chamber temps are too low, such as in an engine that is jetted too rich, the oil doesn't burn completely. Instead, some of it hardens into deposits in the combustion chamber, on the piston, and on the power valve assembly. The rest becomes the dreaded "spooge". The key to all of this working in harmony is to jet the bike lean enough to achieve a high enough combustion chamber temperature to burn the oil, but also still be able to supply enough oil to protect the engine. If you use enough oil, you can jet the bike at it's optimum without starving the engine of oil, and have excellent power, with minimal deposits and spooge. At 50:1, you simply can't jet very lean without risking a seized engine due to oil starvation.

With the high oil concentrations that I use, I tend to get far more life from my cranks and rings than most of my friends that run leaner oil ratios. The high oil content also produces better ring sealing, so more of the combustion pressure is retained.

One small point. No one ever broke an engine by using too much oil.

__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Pre-mix Ratios and Horsepower Production

I have run Dyno tests on this subject. We used a Dynojet dynamometer, and used a fresh, broken in top-end for each test. We used specially calibrated jets to ensure the fuel flow was identical with each different ratio, and warmed the engine at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes before each run. Our tests were performed in the rpm range of 2500 to 9000 rpm, with the power peak of our test bike (an '86 YZ 250) occuring at 8750 rpm. We tested at 76 degrees F, at 65% relative humidity. We started at 10:1, and went to 100:1. Our results showed that a two-stroke engine makes its best power at 18:1. Any more oil than that, and the engine ran poorly, because we didn't have any jets rich enough to compensate for that much oil in the fuel. The power loss from 18:1 to 32:1 was approximately 2 percent. The loss from 18:1 to 50:1 was nearly 9 percent. On a modern 250, that can be as much as 4 horsepower. The loss from 18:1 to 100:1 was nearly 18 percent. The reason for the difference in output is simple. More oil provides a better seal between the ring and the cylinder wall.

Now, I realize that 18:1 is impractical unless you ride your engine all-out, keeping it pinned at all times. But running reasonable ratios no less than 32:1 will produce more power, and give your engine better protection, thus making it perform better for longer.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Like I say, I found this on the net and just wonder how much there is to his way of thinking? Thanks.......................:cool:



I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626

[nitekrawler]

I wonder if there's anything to this;
I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626
/////////////////////////////////////////////


Pre-mix 101

OK, looks like it's time for a little pre-mix 101. I don't usually get into ratio discussions, because mix ratios are like religions to most people, and they tend to be closed-minded on the subject, but I'll put in my $.02 here anyway.

There is a prevailing myth that less oil is better, and that the oil in the fuel is what lubricates the engine. Both are wrong. The engine is lubricated by the residual oil that builds up in the crankcase. All the oil in the fuel does is replenish this oil.

The best way to determine if you are running enough oil is to check the level of the residual oil in the crankcase. If the ratio you run leaves enough residual oil in the crankcase to cover about 1/8" of the bottom of the crank wheels, then you are fine. If you don't have that much residual oil in your crankcase when you pull the top-end off, you aren't running enough oil for your riding style and conditions.
With that said, to have that amount of residual oil in the crankcase at 50:1 (a ratio made popular by magazines and oil bottles), you can't be riding very hard, or your bike is jetted richer than necessary simply to deliver enough oil. I arrived at 26:1 for my bike with my riding style because that is the amount that gives me the proper amount of residual build-up. Small-bore engines require greater oil concentrations than larger engines to achieve the proper amount of residual build-up, because they rev higher and have higher intake velocities. Along the same lines, someone that pushes the engine harder, and keeps the revs higher, also needs to use higher oil concentrations to achieve the proper residual build-up.

To understand why the residual oil is so important, you have to understand what happens to the oil in your fuel when it goes into the engine. While the oil is still suspended in the liquid gasoline, it can not lubricate anything. It has about as much lubricity at that point as straight gasoline. When the gasoline enters the engine, it evaporates, dropping the oil out of suspension. Now that the oil is free, it can lubricate the engine, but it must get to the parts to lubricate them. The way it gets to the bearings and onto the cylinder is by being thrown around by the spinning crankshaft. Some of the oil eventually makes it into the combustion chamber, where it is either burned, or passes out the exhaust. If the combustion chamber temps are too low, such as in an engine that is jetted too rich, the oil doesn't burn completely. Instead, some of it hardens into deposits in the combustion chamber, on the piston, and on the power valve assembly. The rest becomes the dreaded "spooge". The key to all of this working in harmony is to jet the bike lean enough to achieve a high enough combustion chamber temperature to burn the oil, but also still be able to supply enough oil to protect the engine. If you use enough oil, you can jet the bike at it's optimum without starving the engine of oil, and have excellent power, with minimal deposits and spooge. At 50:1, you simply can't jet very lean without risking a seized engine due to oil starvation.

With the high oil concentrations that I use, I tend to get far more life from my cranks and rings than most of my friends that run leaner oil ratios. The high oil content also produces better ring sealing, so more of the combustion pressure is retained.

One small point. No one ever broke an engine by using too much oil.

__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Pre-mix Ratios and Horsepower Production

I have run Dyno tests on this subject. We used a Dynojet dynamometer, and used a fresh, broken in top-end for each test. We used specially calibrated jets to ensure the fuel flow was identical with each different ratio, and warmed the engine at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes before each run. Our tests were performed in the rpm range of 2500 to 9000 rpm, with the power peak of our test bike (an '86 YZ 250) occuring at 8750 rpm. We tested at 76 degrees F, at 65% relative humidity. We started at 10:1, and went to 100:1. Our results showed that a two-stroke engine makes its best power at 18:1. Any more oil than that, and the engine ran poorly, because we didn't have any jets rich enough to compensate for that much oil in the fuel. The power loss from 18:1 to 32:1 was approximately 2 percent. The loss from 18:1 to 50:1 was nearly 9 percent. On a modern 250, that can be as much as 4 horsepower. The loss from 18:1 to 100:1 was nearly 18 percent. The reason for the difference in output is simple. More oil provides a better seal between the ring and the cylinder wall.

Now, I realize that 18:1 is impractical unless you ride your engine all-out, keeping it pinned at all times. But running reasonable ratios no less than 32:1 will produce more power, and give your engine better protection, thus making it perform better for longer.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Like I say, I found this on the net and just wonder how much there is to his way of thinking? Thanks.......................:cool:



I found it here;
http://www.motocross.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21626

So the amount of oil does effect hp, interesting

[nitekrawler]

Here is some good reading
http://www.xl7500.com/2-cycle%20oil.htm

[Trikeaholic]

i always run 32 to 1, no leaner than 40, but I play around in that general area. like the guy said "no one ever broke an engine by running too much oil" If I sacrifice a little power, so what? I say better safe than sorry!

[C W.]

a huge smart place. macdizzy if you start at his home page you can dig around for hours. www.macdizzy.com its real 2 stroke stuff

[Jeb]

I like the blue marble oil @ 50:1 too. I need to get a gallon from TimSr.

The only thing about it is after all these years, I feel like I'm betraying Bel-Ray! :(

[Yamahammer490]

This maybe hard to answer, but how much less smoke do you get when using Blue Marble? When I ride with my buddies (almost all of whom have thumpers) they give me a hard time about the blue smoke. Does Blue Marble really cut down the smoke and smell significantly?

[smokinwrench]

My R doesn't smoke once its warmed up. It doesn't smell either once you get through the first stages of using it.