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Longliveatc27
12-23-2022, 05:38 PM
I am new to this forum. I have been having some issues with a 1984 200es I bought. It started and ran good when I first picked it up. Ever since I have been having intermittent problems with it. It will start and run for 5-10 seconds and die. It doesn't do it all the time and once it runs it will run and drive great. It did die randomly on me once when driving. I have tried a few things I bought a new mukunni carb, new battery, new plug. I also adjusted the valves and the timing advance. The compression is good. It sure seems like a electrical issue. It will just die and not sputter or bog first. I'm not really sure where I should go with it from here. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

shortline10
12-23-2022, 08:09 PM
Try cleaning the coil wire connections and making sure the spark plug cap is secure to the wire .

350for350
12-24-2022, 12:04 AM
I think that it would be a good idea to check all of your electrical connections at this time. That includes the grounds. It may simply be a loose connection.

MrConcdid
12-27-2022, 01:31 PM
Also, any chance you have some water or condensation in the tank?

Footy
12-27-2022, 04:08 PM
I would check the connection between the battery and regulator/rectifier. Some older honda TRX models have issues with that connector as they get older.

dieseldigger
12-27-2022, 07:01 PM
Key switches are starting to go on a lot of these machines too. When it's running, try wiggling the key. Also try it with the kill switch.....

ATC200X4716
12-27-2022, 10:03 PM
I would check everything mentioned above, and also if it will idle, flex/wobble/shake each harness a little bit such as the one that goes into the engine, into the keyswitch, CDI. Turn the handle bard each way. I've seen a bad wire inside a harness that would cut in and out while riding as you hit bumps. It would idle all afternoon. The insulation actually looked fine and you could not see the copper inside was broken and intermittently making contact. The clean shutoff suggests your spark is just going away. Fuel would usually be bogging, sputtering, loosing power etc. I would also suggest an ohm meter to ohm out every component that has a spec. Don't assume a new spark plug is good just because it is new. Does it get worse when engine is hot? Electrical stuff tends to go away when it gets hot and can be ok when cold before it finally fails entirely.