1983 ATC200X basket case resto-mod

[1stGEN110]

Today marked day one of my 1983 ATC200X restoration. I started by taking some before pictures. She is quite rough, but mostly intact.


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[1stGEN110]

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I bought the bike a little over a month ago for $250. The clutch cover had been unbolted and left loose on the engine. The gas cap and spark plug had also been removed and then the bike was left out in the weather for an unknown amount of time. The CDI pickup looked practically new, the wiring still had color to it which stood out as the rest of the bike is sunbaked. The missing parts are,
Kick start lever
Kickstart gear set cover
One kickstart gear (I found a lone kickstart gear inside the fuel tank….)
Gas cap
Clutch cover bolts

The engine looks OK from the outside and the engine is not locked up. The clutch, oil pump, oil filter slinger thingy and the primary gears look pretty good. No rust amazingly.

[1stGEN110]

The cam has what appears to be a bushing or the remnants of a needle bearing but it is galled and the lobes are pitted and worn. The head luckily appears to be mostly undamaged. I think it is salvageable.

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[1stGEN110]

The cylinder looked better than I expected to have had rain water entering in it. The journals in the head could be better but they are smooth. I can thinking about trying to polish them out.

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[1stGEN110]

The piston looks pretty good, some minor scratches and the rings were easily unstuck by hand. The cylinder looks great, it measures roughly 2.630” with my dial calipers. The liner looks thinner than I’d expect a stock Honda liner to be.

The carb appears to be a stock Keihin the main jet is a 118 and the pilot is a stock 40, the carb is in remarkably good condition. The bike has a very rotted Supertrapp pipe.

I’d love to rebuild the motor with a mild compression piston and perhaps a mild camshaft. Next step is to split the case and see what surprises lurk inside the case halves!? I also found the timing advance spring is missing so I’m wondering if the person who worked on this trike last knew what they were doing. On a brighter note the only bolt that broke is one 8mm bolt that holds the parking brake cable into the rear caliper. Part of the stub is protruding so I’ll have that to play with once I figure out how to get the caliper off!


If the engine is viable I’ll build it, if not I’ll probably send it to Mark Brenny in Iowa for an exchange.

Any ideas if this is a high compression piston? I’m thinking it is.

I welcome any comments, ideas or sympathy!
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[Footy]

Good job man! For the parking brake bolt just buy the parking brake block off plate. Less than $15.
The honda parking brake almost never works and is a bunch of unnecessary weight.
Looks like a maier front fender for a 250R.

[1stGEN110]

Thanks for the encouragement! I’m really excited to fix this bike up, I can remember riding my grandpa’s ATC200ES before I rode anything else off road as a kid. I was less than 5 years old and am 30 now, so there’s some nostalgia and really fond memories there.

I like the look of the front fender! I’ll check out the block off plate, I could make one but for $15 I’ll save the time. The mechanism looks kind of Mickey Mouse, can it be made to work? I’d like to have the parking brake if able.

My plan for the bike is to make a sporty trail rider. I have a buddy who has a Yamaha Blaster and this will be my go to when he is on that or I’m just fooling around. I plan to finish it in red white and blue somewhat like the 85’-86’ ATC200X.

Still mulling over fixing this engine or swapping a CRF230f engine, or a Pitster Pro 230cc and slapping a battery on the frame. I would like to keep this classic all Honda if at all possible. Decisions…

[1stGEN110]

I had one surprise yesterday as I was taking this bike apart. Behind the headlight I found a small black box. I could tell by its design is was a hall-effect sensor, branded TEC which is a common Honda OEM supplier. The signal wire to this sensor was gone and there was a chip in the plastic of the sensor. I set it aside pondering why I’m the world there would be a pickup coil type sensor anywhere near the headlight. Upon pulling the CDI pickup plate cover off the head and seeing the new pickup coil the whole ordeal made sense. There was 3/8” of play in the end of the camshaft due to the roasted cam bearing, when that bearing failed I’m guessing the advance mechanism/trigger crashed into the CDI pickup plate and killed the original pick up!

Oh I bet this bike could tell some stories.

I also like the “Wooly Booger” rear tires.

[1stGEN110]

I have two questions for those in the know,
First off, my rear subframe (where the grab bar bolts on) has snapped off. I can fix the tubing and weld in new threaded inserts, who makes the best aluminum grab bar? I know the DG is available and there are a few others around too. What’s the consensus on which aluminum grab bar to get?

Second, my handlebars are trashed; rusted beyond salvage. Is there a known bend that matches the stock ATC 200 bars relatively well? Preferably in aluminum.

[1stGEN110]

Took advantage of my day off today and got some additional work done! The bike had a lot of caked goop all over the cradle of the frame. I also found that the cross bar on the handlebars was slightly rusted! As in rusted in two!

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[1stGEN110]

She looks a lot better post pressure washing, it appears that brake fluid has killed the paint on the frame near and below the rear master cylinder reservoir; that allowed the corrosion to accelerate in that area. The pitting is worse there but it doesn’t look as if it’ll affect the structure or integrity of the frame. I received a tremendous blessing today. The infamous swing arm bolt was something I was dreading, the nut came off easy and I resisted the urge to go to town on it with a sledge, instead I liberally applied WD40 and PB blaster to the swingarm bolt and went inside and ate lunch, when I came back outside I gave it a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet and she popped right out! The stripped frame is how she sits now. I need to blast the frame and repair the broken tubing back by where the grab bar mounts then send the frame out for powder coating.

While I was cleaning the trike I found an alarming amount of runout on the rear wheels. They have some deep gouges in the bead area so I’m not surprised that they are not round. I hope the axle isn’t bent but I wouldn’t be surprised if it were. There is less runout on the front wheels but still way more than I’d expect from the wheel. Next step is to check the wheel bearings.

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[350for350]

Honestly, if you're this far into it, I wouldn't bother to check the bearings. They would just be replaced. They'll never be easier to get to than they are now.

[1stGEN110]

Honestly, if you're this far into it, I wouldn't bother to check the bearings. They would just be replaced. They'll never be easier to get to than they are now.


I agree 100%, every bearing that I can change will be changed. That includes the loose ball bearings in the stem, I’ll change them to tapered roller bearings like a proper bike should have. What I meant was, I hope to find bad bearings causing the runout and not the axle being bent or the wheels. But I think it’s more than bearings personally.

What usually bends first on these trikes? Wheels, hubs or the axle?

[Footy]

I might be wrong on this but I think you can use a 250x/300ex rear axle if yours is bent. This could save you some $ if it will fit the 200X. Hopefully someone on here that has tried this will chime in and confirm this or correct me on it.

[1stGEN110]

I just got an offer on a running 1985 200X motor. It has been worked on and I think it has a dirt bike head as there’s a compression release on the right side of the head. Any reason to stay away from that if I can get it for $750 or less? Im mainly concerned of timing changes between the 85’ and my 83’ CDI and harness? Thanks for the expertise guys!

I’m going to try to get my motor apart today but I don’t have a case splitter tool or a flywheel puller. I’ll try to open it up from the clutch side case half. If it’s rusted inside I’m a lot more tempted to abandon or at least delay building this original engine.

[1stGEN110]

I might be wrong on this but I think you can use a 250x/300ex rear axle if yours is bent. This could save you some $ if it will fit the 200X. Hopefully someone on here that has tried this will chime in and confirm this or correct me on it.

Good lead! I’ll do some digging and see what I can come up with on this, thanks!

[1stGEN110]

Still waiting to hear back on the 85’ 200X engine. I did order a DG grab bar today so I can fab up the missing tubes on my subframe. Does anyone know if I can buy DG wheels to fit my stock 200X rear hubs? I’m guessing no one makes a new aluminum front wheel for the 200X?

[Footy]

Still waiting to hear back on the 85’ 200X engine. I did order a DG grab bar today so I can fab up the missing tubes on my subframe. Does anyone know if I can buy DG wheels to fit my stock 200X rear hubs? I’m guessing no one makes a new aluminum front wheel for the 200X?

I am not sure that I have seen DG wheels. I would guess that there would be sources for an 8 inch aluminum wheels with 4 on 110mm bolt pattern. I have some for sale but these are steel instead of aluminum. Most of us use trx300ex or 400ex rear hubs and wheels. Unfortunately this trick does not work for the 250R or 350X.

[1stGEN110]

I am not sure that I have seen DG wheels. I would guess that there would be sources for an 8 inch aluminum wheels with 4 on 110mm bolt pattern. I have some for sale but these are steel instead of aluminum. Most of us use trx300ex or 400ex rear hubs and wheels. Unfortunately this trick does not work for the 250R or 350X.

You are correct I meant Douglas wheels. Sorry!

[1stGEN110]

Looks like the 82’ ATC250R axle is a direct swap on the 200X. You have to buy a sprocket for the R axle as it’s all rigid on the R, not rubber bushed like it is on the factory X axle. I’m probably going to close my eyes when I click the order button and get a Dura Blue. I’m building this bike to keep, and I want it right.

What are you guys opinion on the Kenda front max tire vs the Kenda K530 Pathfinder? Either would probably be fine, I’m thinking cornering would be better with the front max but braking would likely be better with the K530. Pretty sure I can get the front max in a 23.5” for stock geometry but the K530 is available in a 23” so not much of a difference to me there. Thanks!

[350for350]

Yes you can order 8" rims for the back of your 200x from either Douglas or ITP. There may be others, but those are the most common by far. I just ordered a pair of Douglas rims back in June for my 250SX. I have some stock 200X rims on there right now. I gave $160 for them on Ebay. Personally, I prefer the Front Max over any drive tires for the front. It's only my opinion, but I think that tires that are obviously drive tires look stupid on the front of a trike. The pathfinders are good rear tires. They do get pretty good traction for all around (not mud specific) tires.

[1stGEN110]

Yes you can order 8" rims for the back of your 200x from either Douglas or ITP. There may be others, but those are the most common by far. I just ordered a pair of Douglas rims back in June for my 250SX. I have some stock 200X rims on there right now. I gave $160 for them on Ebay. Personally, I prefer the Front Max over any drive tires for the front. It's only my opinion, but I think that tires that are obviously drive tires look stupid on the front of a trike. The pathfinders are good rear tires. They do get pretty good traction for all around (not mud specific) tires.

More great insight, I personally prefer the look of the front max and agree that it looks like a front tire for a trike. Thanks for the input!

[Dirtcrasher]

If you need any, I've got NOS kickstart gears and the updated spring for either the 83 or the 84/85 200X.

[1stGEN110]

If you need any, I've got NOS kickstart gears and the updated spring for either the 83 or the 84/85 200X.

PM sent! Thanks!

I have a shop day scheduled for tomorrow, so after I change the final drive oil in the Gold Wing and address the unfriendly top end noise on my KLX351 it’ll be time to try to split the case on the 200X motor.

[1stGEN110]

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Well, I got a lot done on the 200X today. I pulled everything off the clutch side that is needed to split the cases. With that said it didn’t come easy, the oil slinger and clutch were easy. The two JIS countersunk screws that secured the oil pump to the block were insanely tight. I shattered a 1/2” impact rated JIS bit trying to get them out. In the end I had to drill them out which wasn’t too bad. Now that everything is off the clutch side, including the case half bolts, I tried gently tapping the crank snout (clutch side) to split the cases. My rubber mallet didn’t even phase the cases. They are on there really well!

I don’t have a puller yet for the flywheel but I’ll likely order it along with a case splitter tool.

Not that I wanted more of a flight but it’s almost insulting when the remaining studs (the ones I had to drill the heads off) unthread from the block with my fingers…

I also found some puzzling marks on the inner clutch side case half. It appears that the rivets on the clutch basket are somewhat sheared, there are corresponding marks on the inner case half that match the clutch river marks. I also think I have a few shifter parts that are just outright missing. More to dig into when I get the cases apart, maybe the missing shifter parts got wedged behind the clutch basket and the case half causing the score marks? It seems impossible for the basket to contact the case if the bearings are OK and the clutch nut is tight, which both were.

[1stGEN110]

Based off the apparent condition of my engine, and the scarcity/cost of some parts I opted to source a donor bike for this project. I have no idea what kind of shape my CDI, Stator or wiring harness are in. Considering that the trigger coil and cam bearing are both destroyed I think that is the most cost effective way to complete this bike, and maintain it going forward. I picked up this 03’ CRF230 today to cannibalize for the ATC! The modest increase in weight from the starter and wiring should be offset by the slight bump in power from the longer stroke of the 230. The bike runs great and shifts nicely, I was surprised to see a top speed of 58mph on my GPS from the 230. I also want to make a custom LED headlight set up for this bike and having a DC charging system will make that much easier, it already has a Li-ion battery that’s super lightweight so I don’t think It’ll weigh the 200X down too much. As an added bonus, I plan to use the master cylinder off the CRF for my front master on the ATC and I may use the front caliper off the CRF on the ATC as well.

My grab bar should be here Wednesday and I can begin making repairs to the subframe, my goal is to have this bike done by first snow which in NC is usually in January. The timeline is looking good!

Tomorrow I’ll disassemble the rear end and address straightness of the axle.



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[1stGEN110]

I will have to sort out the carburetion of this bike to use this motor. I may end up using an XR200 intake and carb as others have, part of me wants to throw a TM33 pumper carb on it but I doubt if there is room. Maybe a custom manifold is in order?

Lastly, I need to do more research to see if my ATC kickstart, transmission and clutch cover will fit on the CRF motor. I’m really torn on that decision. Most guys in the know say the 230 trans is stronger than the XR200 6 speeds due to the lack of kickstart and associated gears that take up real estate in the transmission resulting in thinner gears on the XR.

Even if I cannot use the kickstart gears or ATC 5 speed I’d still like to mount the ATC clutch cover to support the stock rear brake lever. I need to do more research to verify compatibility.

More to come, stay tuned!

[1stGEN110]

Axle is apart, pretty sure its bent but I need some V blocks and a dial indicator to be sure. I'm working on getting access to those tools.

Fitting the ATC clutch cover on the CRF looks like a no-go, visually speaking it doesn't even look close. Looks like I'll keep a fresh battery in it at all times!

I'm looking at plastics and I see Maier and KTXPro sells a set for the 200X. I know and trust the Maier name, never heard of KTX. Any opinions?

[oldskool83]

You can not put a 300ex axle in a stock 200x carrier 83-85. If you build a new carrier or buy my weld on extensions you can. There's a metric fuckton of math involved. Here's built extended correctly +2 semi professional oem swinger. Everything was laser cut and premachined to go together like a puzzle.

Hreatv.com has my specs to offer these to the masses out of round tubing.

It's worth the upgrade, but your chain won't line up and you need special spacers. I did all the engineering and 3D files and 2D drawings of all my parts.

[1stGEN110]

You can not put a 300ex axle in a stock 200x carrier 83-85. If you build a new carrier or buy my weld on extensions you can. There's a metric fuckton of math involved. Here's built extended correctly +2 semi professional oem swinger. Everything was laser cut and premachined to go together like a puzzle.

Hreatv.com has my specs to offer these to the masses out of round tubing.

It's worth the upgrade, but your chain won't line up and you need special spacers. I did all the engineering and 3D files and 2D drawings of all my parts.

Cool, do you have a ballpark cost for this set up?

[1stGEN110]

Id love to hear any feedback on aftermarket plastic suppliers that makes plastics for the 200X. Leaning towards Maier but curious how the KTX compare? KTX are cheaper but I'm more interested in quality.

[oldskool83]

Cool, do you have a ballpark cost for this set up?

No.

Contact Mike from hreatv.com

The swinger I built is my personal one. I had prob 30+ hours into figuring it all out. I built it from free spare parts..
I don't run all 300ex stuff in the rear. The 300ex rotor is way larger than the 200x . It is the size of a dinner plate. I run atc250r since it is the smallest. I also only use yz426f front caliper since they are just great.

Hre can build you one and talk you thru the parts you would like to run.

I am not Hre. I have known him nearly 2 decades and he's built many different custom swingarms for me and members on here.

You must call. Go to his website and get a feel for what he can do.

He has my drawings for everything. It is always easier to build new than do what I did. I had too much time and decided to figure out what was needed to mix the two since I own 300exs and 200xs.

Kxt plastics are just nicer maiers. DC Plastics are just not as nice maiers. I had DC reproduce Tecate front fenders years ago.

DC Plastics is also reproducing 200x tank scoops for me.

Your new to this I can tell...just buy whatever fenders you can afford. Go ride. Don't overthink the process lol.

[1stGEN110]

No.

Contact Mike from hreatv.com

The swinger I built is my personal one. I had prob 30+ hours into figuring it all out. I built it from free spare parts..
I don't run all 300ex stuff in the rear. The 300ex rotor is way larger than the 200x . It is the size of a dinner plate. I run atc250r since it is the smallest. I also only use yz426f front caliper since they are just great.

Hre can build you one and talk you thru the parts you would like to run.

I am not Hre. I have known him nearly 2 decades and he's built many different custom swingarms for me and members on here.

You must call. Go to his website and get a feel for what he can do.

He has my drawings for everything. It is always easier to build new than do what I did. I had too much time and decided to figure out what was needed to mix the two since I own 300exs and 200xs.

Kxt plastics are just nicer maiers. DC Plastics are just not as nice maiers. I had DC reproduce Tecate front fenders years ago.

DC Plastics is also reproducing 200x tank scoops for me.

Your new to this I can tell...just buy whatever fenders you can afford. Go ride. Don't overthink the process lol.

Ok, there’s a fair amount to process here.

1. I can buy a bolt in DURABLUE axle for about $800 shipped and have a straight axle that is stronger than OEM. Aside from purchasing a different driven sprocket I’d be done and I’d gain between 2”-4” of axle width. I can reuse my brakes, hubs and ect.
2. I appreciate your input regarding the extensive work, and development for the modifications you made to your swingarm. As you so keenly pointed out (and as I openly stated in my initial thread about this trike) I am relatively new to three wheelers, not sure how that is relevant to the build but either way, thanks for pointing it out. I could brief you on my experience with various powersports endeavors but who cares? I’m not here to get into a stretching contest.
3. My bike is an 83, it has a totally different swingarm from the one you modified; I’m sure you are well aware of the uniqueness of the 83’ year model swingarm. It’s a tube frame welded swingarm, not a box section swingarm like yours. Maybe your custom set up would work, maybe your friend could build me an entirely new swingarm. Doesn’t matter to me as I suspect it’ll cost well more than the DURABLUE axle and probably won’t do any better job in the end than my stock set up with the DURABLUE axle.
4. I appreciate the insight on the plastics, I think you’re saying that the KTX is best among what I listed, Maier is middle of the road and the DC is bottom dollar. While I’m not independently wealthy, I am restoring a toy here and I want to be wise with my money. I cannot justify the cost of NOS plastic, I can however afford and justify aftermarket plastics. I’ll probably go with the Maier‘s as they offer both fenders and the tank shrouds all in the same color. Not sure how the KTX fenders would match the Maier shrouds regarding color.
5. “Your new to this I can tell...just buy whatever fenders you can afford.” I think you mean “You’re” here, but I’m not your (ha, see what I did there) English teacher. Half the time autocorrect screws up what I type the first time. LOL

[oldskool83]

84-85 swinger work on an 83. Just buy a 84-85 shock link and you can swap out the swinger. the 83 200x swinger is stronger and has the shock mount built into it. Nothing changes.

Buy the durablue axle and fix yours up. You will in the long run spend more to do it the 300ex conversion way, however you will get axles for $140 all day long the 300ex way. I would not give $5 for any used OEM 200x axle. They are too skinny and too old at this point.

Enjoy your build.

[1stGEN110]

84-85 swinger work on an 83. Just buy a 84-85 shock link and you can swap out the swinger. the 83 200x swinger is stronger and has the shock mount built into it. Nothing changes.

Buy the durablue axle and fix yours up. You will in the long run spend more to do it the 300ex conversion way, however you will get axles for $140 all day long the 300ex way. I would not give $5 for any used OEM 200x axle. They are too skinny and too old at this point.

Enjoy your build.

It sounds like our thinking is the same, this bike won’t be raced or abused… much… ��

I plan to ride it myself and I don’t plan to let others, who don’t know trikes, ride it. I think the DURABLUE will be fine. Originally I didn’t like the look of the 83’ swinger but the more I look at it I appreciate its uniqueness.

Thank you for the reply and the info. I’ll keep the updates coming, and I assure you, I’m enjoying the build!!! Thanks

[1stGEN110]

Made another parts order yesterday, every chassis bearing and seal will be replaced with genuine Honda bearings and seals. Only exception is the steering head bearings will be replaced with Pivot Works tapered roller bearings.

The DG grab bar I ordered should be here today, I plan to mock up the subframe repairs first. Then address the suspension, I’d like to get the chassis squared away before I begin the engine swap work.

I’m going to use the front master cylinder off the CRF for my front brakes, maybe the caliper too. Still need to address the rear brakes. Disassembling them will determine if they are viable or not. I have one broken stud soaking in penetrating oil as we speak, it hold the parking brake plate on so hopefully it comes out without killing the threads.

[1stGEN110]

The grab bar arrived and looks about like I expected, not great but not bad. It'll be very helpful when reconstructing the broken part of my subframe. Shouldn’t be too big of a deal!

I also ordered plastics this evening, went with the KTXPro. We'll see how they look! Going to try to measure the runout of the axle tomorrow.



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[oldskool83]

you will need to beef up a few areas on the frame. Check out my build thread for those areas.

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/threads/turning-stuff-in-a-sport-trike-aka-return-of-the-honda-atc.137496/#post-1330887

[1stGEN110]

Yes sir, I actually rear your whole thread on that swing arm early last week, great work! So it looks like your strapped a doubler plate onto the downtube, gusseted the subframe to the main frame hoops and my personal favorite was the gusset by the left side foot peg! So weird Honda omitted that on the left but had it on the right? Did I miss anything? I’ll plan to add these mods, do you jump your bike a lot?

[oldskool83]

I did not ride on that frame yet. Its apart and its foolish to think any 40 year old frame is super strong now days. They all will break at that point at the lower down tube sooner or later.

[1stGEN110]

It’s funny how it’s all relative, I consider the full cradle ATC200X frame plenty strong for woods duty. Compared to the hard tail Z50 frames I’ve repaired and restored those frames are extremely fragile, then again they were made for kids in the yard. Not adults jumping them….

I’d go a step further on the 200X and say that under extreme abuse I’m more scared of the 33mm fork tubes than the frame! :p

I’m debating a USD fork swap, but in reality I don’t need another custom fabrication project and I don’t intend to motocross this bike so I’m sure the stockers will be fine.

[oldskool83]

USD forks are over kill on these. I did that 10 years ago. 83R suspension with my re-indexed dog bone HREatv.come makes brings the rear to match the correct geometry when running a 2nd gen R forks (35mm) and 83R only rear shock only. I am the sole engineer of that dog bone. If using 83 200x swinger then your machine will sit like a chopper with longer forks. I used YZ80/85 one mine....I converted back to an 83-84R forks.

HRE makes my re-indexed dog bone. He has a fixture for it.
It's an easy swap but there's tricks him and I know about over the years on doing them.

And so you do not ask me what's involved with 2nd gem R front end...nothing (It's that simple). 83-84R front ends are 100% the same parts and part numbers as a 200x...you reuse all your 200x stuff just run the R forks on bored 200x triples, or you take 83-84 R triples and removed the steering stem, bore the bottom triple to accept the 200x stem and install.

I've been doing this WAY to long. Hopefully this helps.

[1stGEN110]

Yeah, I know. Sometimes we are our own worst enemy! I plan to stick with the stock forks, I’d rather have a nice running X than the best suspension in the world and it is in pieces. Are NOS fork lowers still available? I’d love to strip and polish mine but they are beat up beyond belief, if I can find a decent set of lowers I’ll just paint or powder coat mine.

[ATC King]

USD forks are over kill on these.


Heresy! :beer

[oldskool83]

NOS forks sets...yes I have a few brand new in the Honda box. I will not sell them. I am working with a chinese company to reproduce fork legs. I own them a bad set to reproduce...sucks but they are willing. No one in America is really willing anymore. Most forks are bent or pitted badly.

The amount of money I have hidden way in NOS parts is nuts...I will sell off some every now and then or used stuff once I have it reproduced or remade. I just sold a CT racing swinger.

[1stGEN110]

Ok, I’d settle for a decent set of used lower fork legs. As a good friend of mine would say, “we’re not building a church here!”

[1stGEN110]

Still waiting on the case splitter to arrive. While that is in transit I’m researching wheel options, I have decided on Douglas .190” rear wheels and I see that the early 250r’s and 200x’s had a 4x190 bolt pattern on the front wheel. I have read that the 1986/1987 200x front hub is a direct swap on the first get 200x’s. But the 86/87 front hub/wheel is the more common 4x170 front pattern! If that’s the case I can get a complete set of replacement wheels for this build! Still researching my options there. If this is true, I’ll be on the hunt for a 2nd generation 200x front hub!

[haroldpo6]

My i ask what is a case splitter?

[1stGEN110]

269794

Yeah man! A case splitter is a tool that aids in separating the inner case halves of your engine. The bearings on the crank and the transmission shafts can make dividing the cases in two a real challenge. I’ve seen many techniques before, some lend themselves to the engine never running again…
A case splitter threads into the case half bolt threads and allows a relatively uniform amount of force to be applied to one case half and the other half of the force applied to the snout of the crankshaft to literally push one case half off the crankshaft.

[haroldpo6]

Learn something new everyday.

[1stGEN110]

Minor update, I ordered a set of protaper ATV high bend 7/8” bars, Douglas rear wheels, ITP Holeshots in 20x11x8, and a Kenda front max today. Plastics should arrive tomorrow! Time to spec out material to repair the broken off subframe and get the frame ready for the engine, then I’ll work on figuring out the customs rear brake pedal set up!

[oldskool83]

YOU don't need 86-87 200x for the front hub. 85-86 250r and 85-86 350x is the same. Guys run the prices up too high on the 2nd gen 200x stuff. I have 87 NOS forks on 85 tripples with 85 350x front rim and hub. axle stuff is all the same. Game over. Mix and match.

[1stGEN110]

Great to know, I agree on the pricing. I think I read that to get away with the smaller front hub there is some clear among required on the 83-85 caliper. My main goal would be to reuse my rotor, axle and forks and change the hub alone to get to a 170mm spacing so I can run a Douglas front wheel.

My front wheel is actually in pretty good shape cosmetically speaking. I need to check the runout but otherwise I’ll likely run it for now and if I don't like how it looks after polishing I’ll pursue the later model hub/wheel. Thanks

[oldskool83]

83-85 200X front caliper is same as 86-87 200x which is the same as 83-84 250r. Stop reading info on here...much many guys know nothing / bad info. Ask the pros

[1stGEN110]

Ok, great! Here’s a question for the pro! I know my stock 200X forks are 33mm diameter, my forks have some pitting between the triple clamp mounting areas. Is it a worthwhile upgrade to bore my trees to 35mm and run 83-84 250R forks on my 200X? I don’t plan to race but I’ll probably do some jumping and I weigh 200LBS ready to ride so I expect some flex in the forks either way. Thanks Oldskool83!

[oldskool83]

Unless you do the 83r rear shock mod and new dig bone no point going with a longer front end. I pointed out it will throw off rake and trail geometry. The pitting is an eyesore. Forks can be stripped and rechomed yet. I have a local company in York pa who does it yet. If not, clean them up, electrical tape the part between the tripples and cover it up. Forks race be built to your weight and riding style. Nos fork tubes are still out there yet. The more you remove 200x from the machine a resto mod is worthless in the next guys eyes. Even though you may say I'll keep forever you prob won't. Most of us don't. Run as close to stock as you can.

I've had about 30 in last 17 years...each one I build nicer and closer to stock. My current one im still on fence about motor. 230f vs 200x. I do want to run 2nd gen 200x front fender so I'll just need to destroy a worthless set of lower tripples lol...I think if not destroy a $80 maier fender. I never liked 83-85 200x front fenders.

[1stGEN110]

Perfect, I know it’ll be fine stock and you are correct in that it’ll be worth more that way.

My wife might argue your last point, I currently own 23 bikes between the motorcycles, trikes and quads. I’m a lot better at buying than selling.

My problem is I go and build something that I can replace so rather than sell, I just keep them and buy more. Hey… there are worse vices and investments! :p

To my credit I have sold two bikes in my life, both were easily replaceable milk toast models and I have no regrets there!

I’m with you 100% either strip and rechrome the uppers or tape em up and call it a day!

[oldskool83]

I use to do crazy money selling / parting toys out. I am down to 5 machines I think. They all run. Most of my builds were build from spares. Most of my parts are hand build like the chain guides I make since those are obsolete now and just plain worn out.

[1stGEN110]

269845269846

More parts arriving. I bought what I thought would be a decent quality new K&S replica switch off a TRX model bike Honda. It would incorporate all my original lighting and ignition controls plus the added benefit of electric start. Turns out the quality is sub par, the high/low beam switch was broken out of the package. On to buy a real Honda switch.

[1stGEN110]

269847

Wishful thinking…

[oldskool83]

new parts are fun

[1stGEN110]

The pictures are probably deceptive due to the rears being mounted and inflated. I went with a 20x11x8 ITP Holeshot on the back and a Kenda front max 23x8x11 in the front! I too feel the motor would lug more than needed with a 22” rear tire. I usually ride dirt trails. Not much rocky stuff around my area, so hopefully the reduced ground clearance won’t hurt! I can’t wait to polish up the front wheel and mount it up!

Been really busy with work so the frame repairs have yet to begin.

I have been researching the performance options of the 230 motor and I think I’m going to go with an Athena 240cc big bore, performance CDI, stock header and possibly port the intake side of the head. That should make for a rock solid reliable engine without overheating issues and hopefully around 20hp!

Still undecided on the carb, probably the stock 200X 24mm PD or maybe a TM28 pumper (if I can get it to fit) I do not plan to chop up the frame to work on a carb. The carb will have to clear the stock frame.

[oldskool83]

22'S are too much for this small motor. new 22's are not like old ballons 22's which weight nothing.

[1stGEN110]

269848269849

More goodies!

[1stGEN110]

269852269853

Pretty nice tank, couple of pinholes at the back but pretty straight overall. One decent dent in the right knee area which I’ve already got halfway knocked out. Couple of small divots on top that will get bondoed, the fuel cap is in great shape! The seller adding the rubber was a very nice touch.

I still need to find, or make the special fuel tank bolts that double as the seat mount. They are available on eBay but at $100+ I’ll make my own. Anyone got a spare set for sale?

[Jim mac]

on the fuel tank bolts, I just buy 2 bolts and 2 nuts. screw both bolts in, measure the width between the tank hooks, cut the bolts so it's a little narrower. get some rubber grommets from ace hardware, fit it over the cut bolts. the nuts are used as jam nuts to keep the bolts from backing out. jim

[1stGEN110]

on the fuel tank bolts, I just buy 2 bolts and 2 nuts. screw both bolts in, measure the width between the tank hooks, cut the bolts so it's a little narrower. get some rubber grommets from ace hardware, fit it over the cut bolts. the nuts are used as jam nuts to keep the bolts from backing out. jim

Great idea, that’s very simple and effective! My thought is to center bore the head of an M8 bolt of the correct size, and press a piece of round stock in the bore of the correct size. These really are not that hard to reproduce. I may have a local contact who has an original that I can blueprint. If interested, I can see about making some sets for guys who need them.

[oldskool83]

I can make new fuel tank bolts, any machine shop can if you have a drawing or a sample to provide. I have the drawings to do this. You need to start out of hex stock. Stainless is my call on them. I tend to reproduce or make what I do not have. OEM tank scoops are being remade for me. My 1st set will be hot pink.

I'd sell that stock tank and put a IMS plastic copy on it. They are about $330 plus shipping, or a white oversized clarke $275 shipped. The metal tanks are hard on the knees and always rust and gum up carbs. Metal was just a bad idea all the way around....Honda finally got it right on the last gen 250R using plastic.

That's just me but you can do what you want. I got a white clarke tank

[1stGEN110]

I can make new fuel tank bolts, any machine shop can if you have a drawing or a sample to provide. I have the drawings to do this. You need to start out of hex stock. Stainless is my call on them. I tend to reproduce or make what I do not have. OEM tank scoops are being remade for me. My 1st set will be hot pink.

I'd sell that stock tank and put a IMS plastic copy on it. They are about $330 plus shipping, or a white oversized clarke $275 shipped. The metal tanks are hard on the knees and always rust and gum up carbs. Metal was just a bad idea all the way around....Honda finally got it right on the last gen 250R using plastic.

That's just me but you can do what you want. I got a white clarke tank

I’d love to see a picture of your white Clarke tank on a 200X. I prefer everything about plastic, except the look. The main reason I went metal was to retain the use of the factory tank shrouds, are you adapting your reproduction Pink shrouds to the Clarke or IMS tank? I’d love to have a plastic tank that retains the shrouds, that would be the best of both worlds in my opinion.

Metal tanks do have their drawbacks. Keep them full of fuel and in my case they have been fine. This is what I’ve done on everything from my 86’ 125M to my 72 CB500/4 and they are fine. Ever bang one though and they dent super easy.

[shortline10]

IMS makes a short track tank that uses the factory shrouds . Clark does not .

https://www.justgastanks.com/honda-atc-200x-ims-gas-tank/

[1stGEN110]

Just called IMS, they confirmed their 200X tank does have brass threaded inserts in the front portion so some form of shrouds would work. Crazy that they don’t have any pictures or even a reference blueprint for the tank to show what it looks like?! The tank I bought has some tiny pin holes in the back that can easily be tig welded up. The rest of the metal looks great, so I’ll fix this one and go with it for now. I want to redo the original decals and put a red, white and blue Honda wing back on it!

[oldskool83]

I cold of told you that, so does phase 5 if you can ever find one of them tanks lol I've owned all 3 styles. These are IMS short track red tanks.

[Gumbo]

This is my IMs tank https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220913/08f8333536b623f87aec7a17179e9c4d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220913/78022d419b7fe334c61369e6f8645abd.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1stGEN110]

I cold of told you that, so does phase 5 if you can ever find one of them tanks lol I've owned all 3 styles. These are IMS short track red tanks.

Ok, you’ve answered one question. That tank looks great! I’ve always had a hard time getting stickers to stay on plastic tanks. I think the purge some vapors through the plastic as the breath, that or they outgas somehow causing the fuel vapors to react with the adhesive of the sticker.

Now, secondly, is that a CR125 or maybe a CR250 in that 200X frame?!?! I bet that is a riot! Sweet bike!

I still dream of a Blaster 200 2t motor or maybe even a KDX200 motor in a 200X frame. That would be an awesome woods weapon.

[1stGEN110]

This is my IMs tank https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220913/08f8333536b623f87aec7a17179e9c4d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220913/78022d419b7fe334c61369e6f8645abd.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks nice, I’m guessing the mount bracket is reversed? If I hadn’t found a decent metal tank I’d have certainly considered this route. Thanks for posting the picture, it really is worth 1,000 words!

[Gumbo]

Yes 100% correct, just reverse the bracket, it sticks out a bit so I presume it was like this to make it more compact for storage etc, I put pictures these up as I thought it gave a clear image of the tank scoop mounts look like. [emoji1303]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oldskool83]

No that's a kx112 Eric gorr motor. It's not a friendly swap, and 1st gen 200xs are pointless to do any 2 stroke swap in...no a blaster motor won't fit. I own blasters too. The frame design does not lend to 2 strokes with center pipe swaps nice....let alone linking airboxes to carbs. I built that one from spares also.

[1stGEN110]

No that's a kx112 Eric gorr motor. It's not a friendly swap, and 1st gen 200xs are pointless to do any 2 stroke swap in...no a blaster motor won't fit. I own blasters too. The frame design does not lend to 2 strokes with center pipe swaps nice....let alone linking airboxes to carbs. I built that one from spares also.

With enough time and money you can make anything work. With that said, the more you chop up the frame and modify these bikes the more you lose what makes the 200X so much fun. Solid reliable, lightweight, balanced and great handling. I’ve cut frames in half to swap street bike engines into dual sport frames and that didn’t bother me a bit because the frames are plentiful and easy to come by, plus the bike was as turd out of the box (400lbs and 37hp is not an exhilarating ride). I can’t bring myself to hack this 200X up. Some basic, minor improvements to keep it going as a real rider for many more years is my goal. Having OEM parts availability is a huge plus too as far as the engine goes. With that said, when your Gorr built Kawi/Honda hybrid hits the power and I bet it’s a load of fun. ��

[oldskool83]

Yes it ran....it was a pit the gearing it. Tha'ts your main problem when doing dirt-bike swaps. Things are engineered for a reason. I hated that machine. I road it 2 or 3 times and traded it on a 660 raptor. Let a 200x alone, you need more buy a 250r or a 350x

[1stGEN110]

Looking forward to getting this tank sorted out, are there any petcock rebuild kits available? I see all balls makes a kit for the other 200cc ATC’s, but not the 200X. I’m thinking about buying the basic ATC200 kit and using the pillow out of it in my stock petcock.

[oldskool83]

any tank used stock petcocks which every Chinese guy remakes now days for a few bucks. You are way over thinking the petcock issue which is no issue. Run an inline fuel filter and call it a day. Just not a paper one. Ethanol will eat the paper in 2-3 years.

[1stGEN110]

any tank used stock petcocks which every Chinese guy remakes now days for a few bucks. You are way over thinking the petcock issue which is no issue. Run an inline fuel filter and call it a day. Just not a paper one. Ethanol will eat the paper in 2-3 years.

I’ve seen the Chinese options, I will stick with my Honda casting. I’ll probably gut a Chinese one and rebuild mine. I just don’t want it to leak fuel!

[Footy]

I’ve seen the Chinese options, I will stick with my Honda casting. I’ll probably gut a Chinese one and rebuild mine. I just don’t want it to leak fuel!

I have been through this petcock issue so many time. Honda ,suzuki, yamaha it does not matter. All of the petcocks fail after 5 to 12 years. Just get the cheap ($15) ebay petcock and go ride. I usually keep a new spare because the same one will fit so many models. It is much easier to get right than the weird petcock set up that is on the ATC 70, 110, & 125M. i am completely fed up with trying to get those to not leak.

[oldskool83]

Honda didnt make their own castings lol...there is nothing wrong with a chineese petcock. I use them on everything. 20 years ago maybe they were total garbage but stuff has been getting better. I've had no issues with any of mine. Waste you money in other areas such as suspension OR real foot pegs

[1stGEN110]

Sounds like the verdict is in! Chinese petcock it is!

[1stGEN110]

Been away from the forums for awhile, my first child was born Wednesday! As I am laying low around the house for the most part tending to her and my wife, I’ve been researching carb options. As a fallback, I have my stock 200X carb to use which I’m sure would make good torque down low on the 230 motor. I’m debating trying to fit a TM28 pumper or even a Yoshimura MJN28 carb on it. Easiest would be the 200X 24mm Kiehin, but what’s the fun in that?! I’ll need to get the motor in the frame along with a manifold and see what kind of clearance I have. Most, if not all, flatslide carbs have wide bodies.

[Footy]

Congrats on your baby!

[1stGEN110]

Congrats on your baby!

Thank you sir! She’s our first, momma was admitted to the hospital last night with a severe kidney infection so it’s going to be me and the little one for awhile. My life has been a series of “trials by fire” basically a single Dad less than a week after delivery, it could be worse!

After doing some additional research (as you know I have plenty of idle time on my hands) it looks like I might pickup a couple MPH top speed with the bigger carb but since I’m aiming for a trail rider with plenty of grunt I think I’ll stick with the stock 200X carb for now, if I good deal pops up I may swing for an XR200 26mm carb, that should meet in the middle!

[350for350]

In my opinion, the 200X carb would probably be the best for a trail rider. When swapped the 200X carb out for a XR200 carb on my AutoX, I lost a little bit on the bottom end and gained a little bit on the top end. It does rev out better now, but most people probably couldn't tell the difference. For me anyway, I want better bottom end power for a trail rider.

[1stGEN110]

Got access to the tools to measure the runout on my original axle today. She’s got over 3/16” of runout!!! Wow! I’ll be contacting DURABLUE tomorrow for a replacement axle. I also found that my forks have a very slight amount of bend to them, a straightedge from the top of the chrome to the fork seal area shows less than a 1/16” gap in the middle of the span. I’ll run them for now to get it going but definitely plan to explore other options down the road.

I just watched a video of a guy who has used modern dual sports to make trike conversions that are street legal… man that has me thinking hard about plating this bike. No aspirations to take trips or go on the interstate but it would be awesome to cruise through town on a 230X!!! Pull up to Dairy Queen on a Friday night on my three wheeler… :):) decisions

[1stGEN110]

Hello again! I ordered a Durablue axle on Monday, it requires a 1981-1982 ATC 250R sprocket as it does away with the rubber isolators in the stock 200X axle set up. I’ve found several options online for 40, 42 and 44 tooth options. What do you guys like to use for a rear sprocket with a 20” tires set up? If needed, I can always go up on the front sprocket to compensate. The only axle option available is stretched, +4” I think, and I believe the offset on the wheels will also add a couple inches. Hopefully this bike will fit on the local trails!

[oldskool83]

When i ran that axle I took the sprocket hub to a machinist, had him turn down the stock flange and make me one that used TRX sprockets. It's fully solved all the issues of being stuck with odd or big sprockets. Hers a photo of one of mine. Anyone machinist can do it. I ran stock 38T sprockets on mine.

[1stGEN110]

Very slick, that’s a good, simple solution too! I have a friend who can build practically anything in cad and have it water jetted, 3d printed or CNC machined depending on what is needed, I may lay this at his feet and see what kind of hybrid aluminum/steel carrier he can come up with! Great photos, explain the issue and solution perfectly! Thanks

For reference my research shows the stock 81-82 250R rear sprocket is a 4x100mm bolt pattern.

Is it preferable to go to a smaller rear sprocket like a 38 instead of increasing the size of the countershaft sprocket? Usually on a motorcycle I’d prefer to go up in the front to extend chain life. I can see a minor advantage of slightly increasing the rear sprocket’s ground clearance when going to a smaller size, which is a benefit with the smaller tires.

[oldskool83]

Just do what I had done. Solves all the issues. This is 1 of the reasons I built my own swinger to run a 300ex axle...solves $800 worth of parts and 2 issues at the same time. Plus It cost me well. $0

[1stGEN110]

Durablue axle had arrived, it’s a nice piece! Also got an Uni air filter for the OEM air box. Progress has been slow between work, baby and my KLX needing a new crankshaft. I’m still dead set on getting the 230X done. I’ll post back ASAP!

[oldskool83]

They prob where...but where are documented parts to get the correct ride heights, not just putting a shock on the machine and going riding. That's why I came up with the re-indexed dog bone. Thanks big buddy

[1stGEN110]

Getting back to this project, I’m going to do my best to match the beautiful pristine polish of the new DWT wheels on my old OEM front wheel. Then on to adding some gussets to the frame. I can’t wait to get this project rolling!

[oldskool83]

polished looks so nice but stains so easy in dirt / mud. You might want to polish and then have them clear coat hard anodized. Don't know a place, I do. LMK

[1stGEN110]

polished looks so nice but stains so easy in dirt / mud. You might want to polish and then have them clear coat hard anodized. Don't know a place, I do. LMK

I have considered that. Getting back in there to polish under the disc would be a major pita too. Another thought is cut my hub down on the lathe to accommodate a 4x170 DWT front wheel. It would likely be cheaper and easier to cut the shoulder of the hub down and bore and tap 4 holes than trying to get all the gouges out of my OEM wheel and have it cleared. Or find a stock Honda 4x170 hub off a 86 200x or similar 250R. Jury is still out on that one!

[1stGEN110]

Not sure if anyone said yet but the piston you had before you decided on a crf230 is aftermarket high compression

Yep, sadly I have zero history on the engine. It has what I think is an aftermarket cam, HC piston, stock carb with a larger main and a very roached Supertrapp pipe. Based off how the bike was when I bought it I’d say it’s clear the prior owner/mechanic was clueless. Hard to say what this bike may have done in its hayday! I really hoped to save the original engine, and while I haven’t written it off completely it just had too many what ifs attached to it. No idea of the clutch, bottom end or transmission condition, the wiring is another large variable, I found it best to start with a known good Honda built engine and harness.

[1stGEN110]

Still plugging away slowly at this project. I dropped off the forks and shock at the local suspension shop for assessment and reconditioning. I know the forks are slightly bent so in addition to trying to fix that the guy is also going to re-powdercoat my shock spring and have a new braided stainless reservoir line made up! Depending on how the lowers look, they are pretty rough and gouged, I may have them powder coated as well. Painting them is also an option and would make touch ups much easier.

Tonight I worked on brakes. The rear caliper had 3 seized bolts in it. All are out now after various methods of destruction! The OEM front MC is pretty much trash. Reservoir and cap plastics are all but gone, I plan to snag the front MC off the CRF230 for the ATC. Front caliper is stripped down to bare casting with the exception of the larger slide pin which is seized in its bore. My impact didn’t touch it, I was able to shift the caliper on the slider pin in compression with a press but have yet to move it outwards at all.

Have not assessed the rear MC yet but I hope it’s salvageable as I’ll rebuild all of the original hydraulics with fresh rubber and hard parts.

More to come!

[oldskool83]

I put a blaster master on rear of my 200x...I had to drill out the hole...its about sport on. Basically a carbon copy of 04-12 carbed yfz450 rear masters. Use what ya have. Its all made by nissin. However get an etcher and etch in what it is off one....one day you will forget and no one keeps a built records anymore. I have tons of extra parts 200x 300ex blaster if you need masters or something. I use what left from parting. Going after a certain thing can cost a bunch. I also have 2 extra 200x motors here if you need anything.

[1stGEN110]

Well, I definitely need a different rear master cylinder, mine is beyond roached. Ideally I’d find a working take off MC and rebuild it myself. I’m almost done tearing down the front caliper. All but the large slide pin is out, it is limited in its travel by the mounting bracket and since the pin won’t spin freely I can’t unthread it! The whole ensemble is soaking in PB blaster while I’m out of town on a work trip. Maybe it’ll have penetrated the corrosion by the time I get home. I was glad to see I can find new rear brake reservoir cups on eBay so all that I’ll need in addition is a new low pressure hose to couple the reservoir to the rear MC.

I plan to have new stainless brake lines made up to replace the old, tired rubber hoses. Also looking forward to adding decals and making a bracket for the headlight. Can’t decide between going back with the rough, but serviceable, stock headlight set up or making a custom LED based arrangement. LED would be awfully easy with the DC stator and rectifier on the 230f engine…

I’ll get it rideable first and go from there!

[1stGEN110]

270833


Progress on the 200X has been slow but I am making a little headway. Frame has been gusseted and powdercoated. The guy I took my suspension too has really screwed me over. Took a little over 6 months to get my parts back, I called weekly and he kept giving me the run around. When I finally told him to get my stuff ready because I’m coming to pick it up he went ahead and put new fork seals in and painted my lower fork legs black, then threw the new seal kit in I gave him and poured some oil into the shock.

He didn’t even try to straighten the bent fork, didn’t have my spring powdercoated, didn’t make up a new remote reservoir line… I picked up my shock in pieces.

My powdercoater had the spring done in one day. While checking out the clicker on the bottom of my shock (less the spring) under compression the shock shot oil out all over me. Ruined my pants and stained my sunroom carpet. I took the spring and leaking shock back two weeks later for him to fix. He said “can I keep it a couple days?” It’s been three months now. The guy is useless.

The leak is coming from the clicker needle that goes through the shock shaft. He didn’t know how to take it apart so he set it on the shelf and it wasn’t until I showed up one day that he finally decided maybe he should get back on it. He goofed around for a couple hours while I was there trying to stuff various size orings into the bottom of the shock body to seal the needle but said that it kept leaking. I’m guessing there probably shouldn’t be pressurized oil in that area anyway and the orings are likely to keep dirt and trash out of there.

Anyway, I have about 95% of all my build stuff ready and waiting. I certainly have enough to get the bike up and rideable which is what I really want to do. I’ve missed a whole summer of 200X riding due to this guy and am about at my wits end.

If anyone has a decent spare 200X shock I’d love to buy one.

I’ll update again soon, been too long.

[mikeheck]

Hey thanks for the update; that frame looks great! Wow that is frustrating about the shock. Maybe someone around here knows a good suspension guy?

[1stGEN110]

I’m curious if anyone on TWW has any experience with the adjuster needle orings on a 200X shock. In retrospect I should’ve done the suspension work myself, I could’ve tried and screwed it up a dozen times at this point and come out ahead on my time and the whole project being done. Unfortunately, I have never disassembled a shock and I certainly didn’t disassemble this one either, usually with enough time I can figure about anything mechanical out by reverse engineering the assembly.

If the tiny oring in the shock shaft that seal the needle are supposed to be under high pressure, would anyone here be willing to share some insight on how the needle and shock shaft go together? I have a factory service manual and can get the rest of the shock together.

[Footy]

I’m curious if anyone on TWW has any experience with the adjuster needle orings on a 200X shock. In retrospect I should’ve done the suspension work myself, I could’ve tried and screwed it up a dozen times at this point and come out ahead on my time and the whole project being done. Unfortunately, I have never disassembled a shock and I certainly didn’t disassemble this one either, usually with enough time I can figure about anything mechanical out by reverse engineering the assembly.

If the tiny oring in the shock shaft that seal the needle are supposed to be under high pressure, would anyone here be willing to share some insight on how the needle and shock shaft go together? I have a factory service manual and can get the rest of the shock together.

The nitrogen pressure should be in the reservoir.

[1stGEN110]

Yup, I totally get that! The issue is apparently instead of the oil going through the orifices to dampen the movement applied to the shock, they are taking a path of lesser resistance through the shock shaft bore and out of from behind the clicker knob when the shock is compressed. This is when actuating the shock by hand with no spring installed, I’m sure it’ll create even more resistance to fluid flow at higher loads and speeds than I can induce by hand. Basically, I’m wondering what keeps shock oil sealed away from the inner shock shaft bore where the clicker needle lives? Thanks for the reply!

[1stGEN110]

The rebound adjuster needle has a large groove closest to the adjuster knob, I believe this to be a secondary seal point and the main locating point for the needle. The needle itself appears to float in the shock shaft bore secured only by the oring pressure. The small step down towards the tapered end of the needle appears to be the primary seal point. I’m guessing that’s where the bulk of the hydraulic pressure is held back.

270865

Upper end of the shock shaft, I believe this oring groove is the primary seal to hold back fluid pressure inside of the shaft.

270863

Bottom of the shock shaft, yoke that attaches to the swingarm. This oring groove I believe is the large cross section locating oring groove that holds the needle in place and acts as a dust seal/secondary seal.

270864


Finally gave up on the local suspension shop, in retrospect, I cannot believe I left my stuff there for a total of 10 months… insanity is doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting different results…

Anyway, after studying the internal shock shaft bore for about 3 minutes I see that there are two oring grooves as opposed to the single groove the shock mechanic appeared to be fixated on. The lower groove is rather wide in its cross section and it corresponds with a groove in the rebound adjuster needle which I assume like likely there for locating purposes, secondary sealing perhaps.

The groove I think is the primary sealing location is located approximately 1.5” down from the top of the shock shaft. The tolerances/clearances are pretty close and replacing the orings will be a challenge. But just the same I intend to try before sourcing another shock shaft/yoke assembly.

If anyone has dealt with these orings before or has any insight into what size the orings are I’d be all ears to hear. I had the owner of Schmidty Racing return my call last week to tell me in all of the ATC rebuilds he’s ever done he’s never seen a leak from this point. Lucky me…. 😁

[1stGEN110]

No one has any experience with these rebound rod orings?

[1stGEN110]

Progress! I bought a complete shock off eBay, it’s an 85’ 200x shock based off the ad and the blue spring. Surprisingly the coil diameter and wind is exactly the same as my 83’ non linkage shock.

270936

[1stGEN110]

Making very good progress on the 200X, I have a complete rolling chassis with brand new bearings all around. Brand new tires, handlebars, plastics, seat cover yada yada yada. I am addressing the brakes now, in an effort to keep this bike all Honda I’m rebuilding my calipers and rear MC. I plan to use the more modern front MC off the CRF230 donor bike.

Question, my big caliper slide pins on the front and rear were a nightmare to remove. Corrosion had them all but seized in their bore. To the old timers out there, are these steel “liners” or “sleeves” supposed to remain in the caliper? I assume the take up any clearance between the caliper pin bolts and the caliper itself. Sadly the sleeves are not depicted in the parts diagram. I’d greatly appreciate any insight on whether or not I should try to get these off the old crusty caliper slide pins or just forget them and put in the new Honda pins I ordered and don’t look back.

Thanks!

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[1stGEN110]

Follow up to my last post, for those that it may help. You definitely need these sleeves/bushings, they should stay in the bore of the calipers. My big caliper slide bolts were so seized and corroded that the sleeve and the big pin had essentially become one. Fortunately, utilizing some light heat from a torch did just the trick! They came off my old janky caliper slide bolts with little effort. I cleaned them up with a steel brush inside and they are going to be perfectly serviceable. The amount of play that was present between the caliper body and the new slide pins without the sleeves was excessive, over .050” but with the sleeves they are nice and tight! Another issue sorted out!

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I used a 1/4” drive, deep well 3/8” socket as a die to slip the deformed bushing over and a little light work with a ball peen hammer and you’d never know it had a defect.

When cleaning up my old caliper pistons I noticed the front brake piston had some minor corrosion on the forward edge of the piston, the rear was even worse with sizable pits in the side of the piston that would surely cause leaks and loss of brake performance. I erred on the safe side and ordered new pistons for both ends. I want to fix this bike once and ride it for the rest of time!

Once the pistons arrive I’ll get the brakes installed and bled, then it’ll be time for an engine swap!