Diode Dynamics SS3 Pods for Headlights

[ZacH_GrifF]

Has anyone used Diode Dynamics SS3 pods for headlights? I’m thinking I might try to run some in a dual Baja style setup on my bike. They’re 3” square pods. They make them in round too but I think the square housings look better.

268932 268933

[ATC King]

https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-3-sae-dot-yellow-sport-led-pod-pair.html

They're specd at 14.5 watts each (for the Sport model). What are you wanting to run them on and what is the available power of the electrical system?

The Pro model is 36 watts and the Max model is 38.5 watts.

Whatever the system power, it won't produce that at idle and with the power those will draw, the voltage may drop below the specified 9 volt minimum range at idle, which may harm the light or at least cause it to flicker. Those are some pretty expensive lights to risk damaging if not using a system with a battery to keep the voltage consistant.

[ZacH_GrifF]

https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-3-sae-dot-yellow-sport-led-pod-pair.html

They're specd at 14.5 watts each (for the Sport model). What are you wanting to run them on and what is the available power of the electrical system?

The Pro model is 36 watts and the Max model is 38.5 watts.

Whatever the system power, it won't produce that at idle and with the power those will draw, the voltage may drop below the specified 9 volt minimum range at idle, which may harm the light or at least cause it to flicker. Those are some pretty expensive lights to risk damaging if not using a system with a battery to keep the voltage consistant.

I had planned on adding a kholer reg/rec to run it off DC voltage instead of the stock 83 185s AC voltage setup. But I’m also not opposed to adding a small 12v battery to help with keeping voltage up at idle. I'd be running the sports as well

[ATC King]

I'd be best to do the DC conversion and run a small battery then. One of the lithium types if you don't mind the cost. They weigh next to nothing and hold a charge much longer.

[ZacH_GrifF]

Yea I had planned on using Lithium over Lead/acid if I ever went the battery route

[ATC King]

It seems like you're not worried about trying something new, so may as well do the battery thing and add a USB port to charge a phone.

With a phone, you got a speedometer, acceleromter, GPS, odometer, and a whole lot of incredible things you'll only need the one device for. There's probably some Bluetooth/WiFi O2 wide-band kits out there too so you don't need a seperate gauge on the bars.

With some apps, you can even see a difference in suspesnion changes based on how smooth/rough it rides.

[MrConcdid]

Hey guys,
Can it be as easy as, add a battery to say a 250r/350x/200x to run L.E.D. lights correctly? or is it a battery plus a regulator and rectifier?
Can someone make a list or "Kit" with parts and or part numbers along with instructions?
If someone would, I would be happy to make a video and go over the steps involved. I am just not that knowledgeable on LEDs and what it takes to run them.

Thanks

[ZacH_GrifF]

Hey guys,
Can it be as easy as, add a battery to say a 250r/350x/200x to run L.E.D. lights correctly? or is it a battery plus a regulator and rectifier?
Can someone make a list or "Kit" with parts and or part numbers along with instructions?
If someone would, I would be happy to make a video and go over the steps involved. I am just not that knowledgeable on LEDs and what it takes to run them.

Thanks

I’m not sure on the 250/350 bikes but on the 200’s without a battery all you should need is a reg/rec and a battery if I’m not mistaken. I will update once I actually have that setup working or someone who has done it or is a little more knowledgeable can chime in.

I planned on using a 3-prong kholer reg/rec of a lawn tractor and a Lithium battery. It doesn’t have to be a real big one cuz you’re not using it to start the bike.

The reg/rec looks like this
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220112/a94f6fa5ce12636813e197c1e512c486.jpg
And for the wiring you hook the two wires coming off the stator to the reg/rec on the prongs that say AC and the middle prong will be your 14v+ output that you can run to the battery. The reg/rec housing will be your ground so it’ll will need to be mounted directly to the frame and you’ll just ground the battery to the frame.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220112/cbddccb7a79483c32ba91136536b5196.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[patriot1]

MrC:

You put LEDs on your 350x. How are they working?

[ATC King]

I planned on using a 3-prong kholer reg/rec of a lawn tractor and a Lithium battery. It doesn’t have to be a real big one cuz you’re not using it to start the bike.

It'll work as long as it's capable of shunting the excess load to ground without burning up. If the lawn tractor has a total of 30w system but you use it on something with a 60w system, it may actually melt down due to heat. That's if you're running with the lights off and it has to shunt all the excess power in an effort to maintain voltage.

[ZacH_GrifF]

It'll work as long as it's capable of shunting the excess load to ground without burning up. If the lawn tractor has a total of 30w system but you use it on something with a 60w system, it may actually melt down due to heat. That's if you're running with the lights off and it has to shunt all the excess power in an effort to maintain voltage.

From what I’m reading the Kohler stator is a 70w stator and the 185s stator is a 50w stator
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220112/173a1a679984dac6bf42ee01f85f58c7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ATC King]

Hey guys,
Can it be as easy as, add a battery to say a 250r/350x/200x to run L.E.D. lights correctly? or is it a battery plus a regulator and rectifier?
Can someone make a list or "Kit" with parts and or part numbers along with instructions?


The Goki electric start kits used a half wave setup on the 200X and 350X because it's the cheap and dirty way to do it, but certainly not ideal for any electronics, like LEDs which have circuitry that is more voltage sensitive.

The best way would be to float the ground on those before going any further. That involves removing the stator, desoldering the ground and running that out as another wire itself. The 185S/200S models are already set up like that, which is why they're much easier to convert to a DC system and Honda sold a DC kit for them which included using a battery. That allowed use of the lights even when the engine wasn't running.

There's all kinds of hack jobs where people have cobbed some things together in some effort to brag about how cheaply they done it, but I get the feeling that's not the style of video you want to produce. Some have even directly attached LEDs to the stock system, and although they'll work in the basic sense of the word, there's also a real risk of damaging them and they'll have issues with flickering and dimming at idle. Not something I'd want to risk when running $100+ LEDs and frankly, it's just a half...sed attempt.

You'll need a reg/rec and preferably a battery. A capacitor works very well and if the lights don't consume too much power, that's all it needs, but if they're higher power and near the limit of what the system will provide, a battery is the better choice.

The wiring is pretty straight foward once the ground has been floated. Deciding where/how to install the reg/rec and battery box may take a little head scratching. The wiring you can do easily enough is you buy a Japanese motorcycle connector kit. One with the various multi wire connectors and one with the bullets connectors.

[ATC King]

From what I’m reading the Kohler stator is a 70w stator and the 185s stator is a 50w stator
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220112/173a1a679984dac6bf42ee01f85f58c7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Shouldn't be a problem then. Of course that diagram shows an unregulated battery charging system with a single diode and it list that one as 70 watts lighting. The stator image above list a 25 amp stator? At 14 volts thats 350 watts. Dang.

BTW, your phone needs charged.