1984 Honda 200X Rescue [Archive]

knappyfeet

11-20-2021, 11:38 PM

I picked up this 200X from a family member. It has spent the better part of the last 15 years outside...neglected and left for dead. I remember when it saw use in its hay days.... then everybody got quads and completely forgot about it. It sat on a trailer in a rented yard til I came along...saw it in despair and decided to rescue it from its rusty..doomed state.

This is not going to be some fancy restoration. It's not going to be flashy and exciting like other builds/restorations/customizations.....it's going to be ugly and mundane. No fancy finishes....just a grody, stinky, messy job of unseizing everything that's seized...which is nearly everything......and getting things to work properly. It's another uninspiring 200X thread that we've all seen before but always love seeing again.

My goal is to get it to run, stop, handle and be dependable. Currently it doesn't do any of those. Another goal is to keep it to a total of $1500 spent. I paid $500...have a $150 in tires..so that leaves me with $850 to get it to run, stop, handle and be dependable...and that will be the challenge...especially since I do not know the condition of anything other than everything is stuck (except the engine) and I got a hole in the header. It may be a little more than $1500 but that's my goal. I know it may be a pipe dream but just let me pretend I can do it. Folks have stated the obvious to me..."you can buy one running for $1500"...yes I know. But this one is different...it's family and I love punishment. I may have bitten off more than I want to chew but it wouldn't be the first. Plus I like to piddle with stuff so there you go.

First thing will be to get tires on it so I can move it around and do a deeper cleaning. 2nd would be to take the front and rear calipers off and rebuild/unseize them so things will spin more freely. Then I want to start assessing what it needs.....motor wise, bearings, wiring, etc...whatever....just so I know better of where I'm at. The good news is the frame and forks look straight and there seems to be compression.

Aside from the occasional "wrench in the gears"....I hope this goes smoothly.

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This photo looks like the Powroll logo without the teeth and with a hole in the pipe

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Jim mac

11-21-2021, 10:00 AM

I think your 850 dollars is doable if you don't mind china parts on your trike. some searches here will tell you which calipers, master cylinders work for the front and back for cheap. air filter, new chain, headpipe, try rebuilding the carb, new petcock for the tank, and you'll probably be riding in a weekend. these machines are so simple, I wished my 200x project was complete like your, I would have kept it, instead I traded it for 3 partial 185s and 200s projects. jim

ATC King

11-21-2021, 10:05 AM

At least it looks like it was abandoned intact and not half disassembled then left in the rain. It certainly has that going for it.

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patriot1

11-21-2021, 10:53 AM

Good score for sure.

Jim mac

11-21-2021, 11:17 AM

like MrC video. tank, plastics and seat already there that's your big dollar cost and you have that covered, rest is just replacing normal parts that wear out. jim

Rick1956

11-21-2021, 12:29 PM

Ah, another person like myself that is easily smitten by things that can be bettered or saved from the dead. Some folks call us 'mechanic masochists'.

Looks like a blast!

350for350

11-21-2021, 09:15 PM

Like others have said above, at least it's complete. I think that you should be able to do it within budget too. It's going to be loud judging by the exhaust. That's not talking about the hole in the head pipe either. By the way, If the rest of the surrounding metal is good, I'd just try to braze that hole shut and then still use the exhaust. Another good thing is that it looks like someone wanted to keep it what I consider to be pretty usable. The holes in the air box lid will let a little bit of crud through, but the rest of the air box will keep the majority of the crud out and off of the filter. I don't mind seeing someone (besides me) fixing up trikes that aren't meant to be museum pieces. Those have a certain appeal, but I'd be afraid to ride one of those because I wouldn't want to damage the rare OEM parts. I knew a guy who called projects like yours (and mine) "beaters". I've always preferred to call them "riders". I don't beat on my machines and I'm also not afraid to get some scratches on them while I'm riding.

jasong_10

11-21-2021, 11:39 PM

Ditto on it being a complete starting point, looks like a cool project.

knappyfeet

11-22-2021, 12:27 AM

Some folks call us 'mechanic masochists'.

I love it!

We are the few...the proud!

We marry out of our league....we bite off more than we can chew! That's who we are!

Jim Mac.... I'm hoping I can get it within the next $850. It kind of all depends on the motor. So far everything looks straight and repairable. Like 350for350 said..... I would call it a rider. Since it's not an OEM restoration I'm not scared of some Chinese parts....... In fact if I'm trying to stay within a budget Chinese parts may be my friend. Right now I feel like I've already got $300 worth of parts already spent in my head. The motor has spark but I'm not getting a lot of compression. I can't open the throttle at all because like everything else it's stuck/frozen/seized...... but it looks a little low. I'll know better when I pull the carb off and do a proper compression test.

Like most things....the front axle was seized in the hub....it wouldn't have it any other way. Not just the axle in the hub but the spacers were frozen on the axle so getting the wheel off wasn't going to happen......so I let WD40 penetrate everything overnight. I eventually used a punch and hammer to at least give me enough room to remove the wheel.....but a couple of times the punch slipped and scared the threads. I eventually used a puller to remove the spacer and a Dremel to fix the threads. I thought for sure the axle was ruined but the rotary tool did its job. It may not look perfect but it threads no problem at all. After cleaning up the rust off the axle and spacers everything was good to go.

I better learn to practice a little patience because everything on this trike is frozen or seized so rushing through things will only cost me money and headaches in the future.

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atc300r

11-22-2021, 09:06 AM

knappyfeet

11-22-2021, 07:02 PM

I love these types of builds.Taking what most would consider a lost cause or parts machines and bringing them back to life.I had a 200x hub given to me last week with a frozen axle.I heated the collar hit it with the airhammer it popped off.Airhammed the axle and spacer out heated the spacer and got it apart.That definitely would have been quicker.

For a moment I thought about getting my tanks filled backup…… but I thought that after I got a few things heated it would just sit there for the next 5 years nearly full.

All of the other stuff that seized is going to be replaced anyways… like the cables, etc..... But my oldest son seems to be getting into forging and stuff like that. I thought he could get this heated up enough to straighten it back out… or least a little bit more reasonably straight. Again it's not a show piece but that's really the only thing that's kind of bent on the bike… that and the handlebars and maybe the shift lever. But what shift lever isn't bent on a 200X haha!!!

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Also he could maybe straighten the bars up too. It appears the bars are so minimally bent that if you just put a padded handlebar protector on it you'd probably never know it was bent. That may be easy enough to fix with some heat as well

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350for350

11-22-2021, 08:50 PM

If all else fails, you can buy a new pair of similar handlebars for not too much money. If I kep watching this thread, I'm going to get motivated to get started back on my 1985 200X project.

knappyfeet

11-22-2021, 11:55 PM

If I kep watching this thread, I'm going to get motivated to get started back on my 1985 200X project.

I love the 85 color scheme.

It's starting to look like a trike with the new tires. Once the chain and brake calipers were removed everything spins freely with no noise, rattles, etc. I thought I may be into it for some wheel bearings and stuff but it looks like they're fine. One thing I feel is that I don't know if I can save that exhaust system. It is so rusted....I don't know. The connecting joint looks rusted/welded together. If I can separate the head pipe from the muffler I'll let it soak in some Evaporust or something like that and see what's left to work with.

I may be sourcing an exhaust.

For now I'm going to remove some items and recommission/service them.

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badasskfx

11-27-2021, 05:59 PM

Is it running yet?
Clean the carb change the oil and give it a kick!

knappyfeet

11-28-2021, 10:18 PM

Is it running yet?
Clean the carb change the oil and give it a kick!
Haha!

Things move at a snails pace in my garage.

I'm currently just removing sections/parts at a time for servicing. I like to complete the cleaning/servicing/repairing of a section before I go to the next.....then when everything's completed it's just a matter of re-installing items.

I've always flirted with the idea of Chinese parts but never really purchased them. I always like to repair the ones I've had and then reinstall them....... But in this case the seller accepted my offer and for a whole $20 I have a brand new knock off rear caliper shipped to my door. It's not even half of what the parts would cost me to rebuild the original.....especially since I wanted new pads, crush washers, parking brake removal cover, etc. The old ones are serviceable so I will keep those for future projects.

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For now I'm just cleaning up the intake track. It will obviously need a new air filter and maybe a quick boiling in wintergreen oil for the rubber parts.

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Shep1970

11-29-2021, 12:21 AM

El Camexican

11-29-2021, 03:39 AM

I’m still trying to decide if that tire reminds me of a piece of cheese, or a camshaft lobe.:wondering

268646

knappyfeet

11-29-2021, 11:44 AM

If your thinking about a china caliper for the front as well, do not fall for that one seller on ebay that has the 200x front calipers for 80-90 bucks- its a china knock off Gy6 scooter caliper that can be had for under $30 and cheaper if u spend the time looking. Theres two types, one has a rubber cap over the mounting bolt sleeve area same as oem other type is solid / just compare yours to pics online. They bolt right up to your stock bracket- and work fine, no issues.

mentioned this in the past/ i just hate folks screwing people over for china parts they themselves can get alot cheaper.
figure this may help other people looking at this thread aswell.

shep
Haha!!.....it's a piece of cheese Mr. Suave!..haha!!

Thanks for the advice Shep....sound advice.

What I like to do is watch a whole bunch of parts. It seems like after a while I get a "seller's offer"...... Then I usually accept or sometimes I just declined and throw out my own offer which was lower than theirs......seems to work sometimes. That was the case with this caliper........ Because parts alone for the original was knocking on the door $50… plus all the fun/headaches of freeing up old calipers. Ironically the front one looks like I can almost push it back into its seat so I may not be looking for the front but it definitely needs a new master cylinder…. I think fluid will leak out of that hole. There's some all over the place.... EBay and Amazon that are under 20 bucks. Can't go wrong with that

I just ordered an air filter........same thing...seller's offer of $22 shipped including tax. My total amount invested so far is $692. Based on what I'm looking at so far even if the exhaust is scrap and the motor makes 1 PSI of compression I still may be able to make the $1500 budget.

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350for350

11-29-2021, 09:31 PM

Be sure to let us know how that caliper works. I've never tried a Chinese caliper. I did put a Chinese front master cylinder on my AutoX at first. It worked, but there was just no feel to it. There seemed to be the same resistance no matter how far or hard I pulled the lever. I hated that so I took it back off. I ended up buying a used master, caliper, and brake hose set up for a 2006(?) CR85 for less than $60 on Ebay. It came still assembled and it even worked. I put the master on the front, the caliper on the back (which I needed anyway), and it all worked just fine with no rebuilds needed. It all still works to this day. Plus the OEM master has good feel to it like it should. I can put up with a lot of stuff that isn't quite how I wanted it, but I'm pretty OCD about my controls. When I had the front master off of my 97 KX250, I probably spent 10 minutes trying to get it set back just right. Then I took the tools to loosen the bolts with me on a test ride and still stopped 2 or 3 times to adjust the lever height some more.

knappyfeet

12-02-2021, 12:40 AM

Be sure to let us know how that caliper works.

Will do.

Removed the tank today so I could wash off the remaining gunk. Now I have a cleaner engine so I can try to pinpoint where the leaks are...... but based on experience and location I'm going to assume the tappet covers need new o rings. I understood the nearly 40 year old finish on the engine is fragile so I decided to use a little gas and a hot water pressure washer instead of just higher pressure. It still managed to remove some of the finish.

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I also wanted to get a better idea of where I stood with engine compression. After I removed the carburetor and after about 8 kicks the highest I got was 70 PSI. For me that's a success for a couple of reasons..........one is that I used my Harbor Freight tester that works great with larger cubic inch engines but not good at all for small displacement engines. There is nearly 40 inches from the spark plug fitting to the Schrader valve under the gauge. Based on experience that 70 is probably 120 to 130. Secondly the kick start lever is too far back. I don't know why it is but I can't get good kicks out of it until I move it to its original forward position.....much more forward.

I'm guessing if I can get the kickstart lever in its proper position I can get probably closer to 80 psi…. Which in reality would put me near 140. Still not where it needs to be but it will run.

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patriot1

12-02-2021, 09:26 AM

Thanks for the tip on the compression tester. I have one from HF also and have questioned it's accuracy.

Amazing what pressure washing will do for an old bike.

ATC King

12-02-2021, 10:17 AM

In the last last year I started using LA's Tottally Awesome cleaner for things like engine degreasing and it's been working better than anything else I've ever used.

268651
http://www.lastotallyawesome.com/shop/all-purpose/awesome-all-purpose-concentrated-cleaner-24oz/

I haven't noticed any adverse effects from using it and the grease just falls right off of engines. It's even better than the aircraft grade Simple Green I bought for doing ATV/motorcycle engines. Best part is places like Dollar Tree and Dollar General always have it on the shelf.

knappyfeet

12-02-2021, 11:27 AM

Thanks for the tip on the compression tester. I have one from HF also and have questioned it's accuracy.

Amazing what pressure washing will do for an old bike.

I should get a proper one but as of the last 5-7 years I haven't been wrenching on engines. We've been riding way more and during that time wrenching to me was checking tire pressure.

I was using it for an old Cadillac motor we were doing 6-7 years ago and then I tried it on my little Yamaha 90 and got a whole 60 PSI which I thought was weird because it would start. A friend explained to me everything and then it finally made sense. I used it on an old sportster engine and it worked fine for that but these smaller ones not very good.

Sometimes I'm wondering if they're even all that accurate on the larger engines.

knappyfeet

12-02-2021, 07:50 PM

This wasn't what I was expecting at all.

Instead of attempting to remove the bowl screws right away I let it soak in WD40 overnight

The clutch cable is frozen, the throttle cable is frozen, the parking brake cable is frozen, etc… I thought in this case the carburetor would be frozen as well but it wasn't. It actually looks like somebody went in there and cleaned it at one point. The throttle assembly is semi frozen so that at least didn't let me down.

At this point I may not order any parts for it. The float assembly and needle seem to be working OK.. I'll take it apart and go through it all the same but once I get my new throttle cable in and everything unstuck in the throttle ........ I'm gonna give it the college try and see if it'll start.

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350for350

12-02-2021, 11:20 PM

If your true compression is 120-140, that would be excellent considering that it's sit for a long time. Once it runs and everything seats back in, your true compression would be higher.

knappyfeet

12-03-2021, 02:35 AM

If your true compression is 120-140, that would be excellent considering that it's sit for a long time. Once it runs and everything seats back in, your true compression would be higher.

I hope so.

I'm anxious just to hear it run. A 70 psi with those lousy kicks, a clean carb and spark (maybe a little faint)...I'm hopeful. To have all the ingredients for a running engine is good but that's not even half the battle. All the seals and gaskets leaking..all the engine noises...things like that are the unknown. To be honest I'm counting on leaky gaskets and seals and valve seals to be the minimum.

So far with the $12 throttle cable I'm at $704. I know it's odd throwing out cost numbers but to me it's a chess game....staying in budget.

ATC King

12-03-2021, 08:54 AM

It beging stored assembled and complete is probably why the carb looks as good as it does.

You've still started out with an example that's in better condition than most. Maybe I should pull the carb off of the 300EX that sat in the rain for years to make you feel better.

Looks like everything is going in the right direction for you.

knappyfeet

12-07-2021, 06:18 PM

While I'm waiting for a throttle cable and various other parts to see if it will run I decided to work on the headlamp. It was cracked in the back and sat kind of cock eyed with thin wire holding it all in place.......I'm assuming from a previous impact.

I ran some power leads to see if it would work and it works......so I decided to get the Johnny Weld and some super glue and fixed it right up.

Nothing fancy or glamorous but just a small little repair that gains me a little yardage in the game of getting this trike operational again.

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knappyfeet

12-10-2021, 07:36 PM

A little more disassembly.

I wanted to get a taste of what it would be like to clean up these plastics so I decided to work on the headlight shroud. This little piece was a complete pain in the the ass.....real deep oxidation. Got it about as good as I wanna get it. I could spend another day on it but it's got cracks throughout and it's just a worn piece. For this "rescue" it will suffice.

I really don't want to paint anything but a couple of these black rusted tid bits will get a can blast from leftover semi gloss engine paint. Once you start painting things it's easy to get the urge to refinish everything.....so it's going to be limited.

The parts are in to get it running so this weekend's chore will be to clean the carb... change the oil….. Install the new throttle cable and get it going. But 1st I've got to get this kill switch operational as it's stuck on.

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ATC King

12-10-2021, 09:12 PM

Painting that headlight shroud was a good choice.

Plastic welding any of those little cracks with the plastic in that condition would be iffy, but there's plastic epoxy that will fill them in pretty well and holds good. A little bit of that plastic epoxy before painting would smooth things out a lot.

Good job on saving that OE headlight housing.

350for350

12-11-2021, 10:49 PM

Is that kill switch full of sand? That's what it looks like from here.

ATC King

12-12-2021, 10:34 AM

Is that kill switch full of sand? That's what it looks like from here.

Don't forget about the spider too! :)

knappyfeet

12-12-2021, 11:13 AM

Yes packed with sand.

Makes me wonder how much found its way into the inside of the motor over the years.

I was tempted to buy one of those cheap Chinese knock off switches on eBay for around 20 bucks.........

350for350

12-12-2021, 09:18 PM

I didn't even notice the spider. At least it's dead.

knappyfeet

12-13-2021, 07:01 PM

Was hoping I could get by with just cleaning the carburetor and o-rings and such… just to see if it would run…….. but the gaskets and the o-rings are so hard/brittle they're coming off in chunks so a rebuild kit was ordered.

Checked bikebandit.com and looks like all the o-rings/gaskets were on back order.........then I checked eBay and there they were. The jets and such could be reused but I went ahead and ordered a Shindy kit anyways..… which comes with all the o-rings/jets/needle screws/needle/springs/etc.. They're made in Japan and I've used their kits before.

Painted a few more tidbits with the Dupli-Color semi gloss engine paint I have leftover from other projects. In fact I had 2 cans left over. One is almost gone so the other will be used for the fork lowers and the foot pegs. I let the parts sit in phosphoric acid. Depending on much rust & paint is present...usually overnight is enough soaking to practically remove everything. Some heavier powder coatings could get a day or 2 more.

That method also works well on chrome pieces that are rusted in spots… as the phosphoric acid will get the rust out but not damage the chrome....usually.

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knappyfeet

12-16-2021, 07:17 PM

The kill switch was time consuming.

Everything was stuck and yucky. Took each individual toggle switch apart and now everything works just fine.....complete continuity, etc.. I unfortunately lost one of the small little ball bearings and spent an hour looking for it. Just when I was about to purchase one on eBay I thought about one of the socket holders. Took it apart.......perfect size. They were socket holders that I bought at Dollar Tree awhile back (now everything there $1.25). I'll probably buy a bag of them on eBay for future projects…...an assortment of various sizes.

Even painted the kill switch with leftover paint from my El Camino.

On to some other tasks now as I await my carburetor rebuild kit

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Jim mac

12-16-2021, 09:40 PM

what year is your el camino? jim

edited the post, pic of my old 66 with a trike project. if you can look at my old posts from the last 15 years, you'll see a ton of pics of my 68 el camino hauling all sorts of trikes. jim

ATC King

12-17-2021, 02:04 AM

Cleaning switchgear is a little time consuming and those small parts tend to disapper, but it's just about more of a maintenance issue than a repair. They're not sealed, get used a lot, and all kinds of crud ends up in them.

There's been a lot of people who've had engine troubles that were actually just problems in a switch. Good that you tackled that now instead of later.

patriot1

12-17-2021, 12:51 PM

Good job on the bucket and the switch!

knappyfeet

12-17-2021, 02:26 PM

what year is your el camino? jimIt's a 72 with a 71 front end.

It sat in the garage forever......just recently we've decided to take it out more and fix problems that develop/ present themselves. We plan on taking it on a trip up-and-down the coast. For now we're just doing short drives and runs so we can't find all the gremlins and address them. They come up pretty frequently but we've addressed them every time… fuel and evap lines, pinion seals, oil leaks, suspension issues, etc..

We had intellectronics gauges that weren't functioning properly or displaying properly and the company replaced them free of charge. Lifetime warranty. Made in America....in Ohio.

One picture was with me and my wife on date night. We were just looking at the skyline and drinking Coors Light and smoking Swisher Sweets.

When we go riding our old bikes we like to use the elco...… just kind of completes that 70s vibe.

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MrConcdid

12-17-2021, 03:27 PM

Looking good Knappy feet!:thumbs up

knappyfeet

12-17-2021, 05:27 PM

Thanks guys.

I went ahead and re adjusted the kickstart lever to where I think it originally would be. I then added a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder…. kicked it a few times to get it nice and lubricated throughout.

After I kicked it about 10 times the max psi was 100. I did this procedure about 2 or 3 more times and 100 was the consensus. I can get 110 psi after 20 kicks.

First test was around 70 psi.......so with a jump of 30 psi....even with the kick start lever being better positioned I'm assuming a top end may be warranted. This is all with the understanding that this Harbor freight compression tool with the long extension gives erroneous readings on small displacement engines. Even with it being wrong a 30 PSI swing is an indication.

I`m still going to attempt to get this to run as I would love to hear it run before I dove into the motor….. to hear all the rattles or slaps or pings or whatever.

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knappyfeet

12-17-2021, 11:48 PM

Jim mac

12-18-2021, 12:14 AM

thanks, unfortunately a moment of insanity and I sold it. I love the 71 grille and turn signals. we had a 71 for a little while too, and a 64, 67, 69, 70, and a 72. jim

knappyfeet

12-19-2021, 03:01 PM

Still waiting for the shindy kit to come in. Took apart the carburetor and cleaned some of the innards but most of that stuff won't be reused.

Change the oil and put in 33 oz of the best oil money can buy… SuperTech. Drained nearly 80 oz out.....2 1/2 quarts. And I was worried the engine would be dry of oil.

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knappyfeet

12-20-2021, 06:19 PM

Since rain is forecasted for the latter part of this week I'm going to prep this fender so it can be my indoor project. All the oxidation will be scraped off and then finely scraped so it can be sanded indoors.

I dislike doing plastic fenders/items. The results are very rewarding but it's horribly time consuming ……. much more time consuming for me than smoothing out a badly orange peel paint job. Luckily only the front part of the fender needs the love. There are a couple little cracks here and there that will require some welding but overall the real chore for this is getting some shine back.

Even Maier plastics are pricey...... at least compared to about 5 years ago......but since the frame and motor will not be painted I would still shy away from putting nice shiny new plastics on it.

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350for350

12-20-2021, 09:48 PM

It's amazing what a little elbow grease will accomplish. That does it. You've convinced me to get back to my 1985 200X. I have an old truck that I have to get stripped out for parts this weekend. Hopefully, I'll be able to get started on it again around the new year.

knappyfeet

12-21-2021, 01:43 PM

That does it. You've convinced me to get back to my 1985 200X.

Right on!

The 85 200X and the first year Big Red are my favorite trikes......both of which I've owned and both were sold. I've never ridden/owned a Tri-Z or a Tecate or an R or a 2nd generation Big Red so I don't know. I've owned an 86 200x and an 85 & 86 350X ......but the 85 200X and 82 BR have my heart.

The shindy kit is in....and at $17 that brings the total to $721 invested in this rescue.

If things go right that should leave me enough $$ to convert it to an 85 200x clone!

I wouldn't mind owning a 90 or 110 in the future....just to putt around. I'm in no hurry to go anywhere.

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ATC King

12-21-2021, 11:23 PM

Thanks for posting that fender at 50/50 after scraping.

It's a whole lot of work, but worth it to save an OE fender. Not knocking Maier for what they do, but even after all the work you'll do on the stock fender, it still probably won't be any thinner than a new Maier. That's just the difference between the costly and complex injection molding the OEs use and the vacuum forming that Maier uses.

knappyfeet

12-22-2021, 07:45 PM

Since it's going to be a rainy week I decided to clean the carburetor body/chasis........ so it can be leisurely reassembled indoors.

My recipe is fairly simple… a long dip in heated Berryman's (small electric space heater)..... a quick rinse then a brief soaking in the acid (pure not diluted).......another rinsing then a short bath in boiling/simmering distilled water......then compressed air. We've all cleaned and blew out carburetors with compressed air only to find that passages are still blocked with crud. Heat is the ultimate emulsifier and I've found over the years just a quick bath in hot simmering to boiling water will free up a lot of the crud that the acid and solvents don't. When I placed this carb in the boiling water you can see the crud oozing out of all the small orifices.

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patriot1

12-22-2021, 09:56 PM

Awesome tip for carb cleaning! Thank you!

knappyfeet

12-24-2021, 07:02 PM

After about 10 kicks she fired right up.

A big rust cloud exploded out of the tail pipe..... It looked like one of those explosive dye kits going off.

It's an early Christmas gift as after it ran for a while all the initial oil burnt away ……. but the night is young and there's always tomorrow.

I had to keep the idle high or it would die. There's all these intake track related issues that needs to be addressed. These old Honda motors are very forgiving for neglect but they have a very quick temperament to intake track changes/issues...... and the smaller the displacement the more finicky they are

350for350

12-24-2021, 09:49 PM

That's great news!

ATC King

12-25-2021, 11:05 AM

A big rust cloud exploded out of the tail pipe..... It looked like one of those explosive dye kits going off.

That would've made a great GIF.

Congrats.

Jim mac

12-25-2021, 11:13 AM

could you tell us what kind of acid you use? vinegar? jim

knappyfeet

12-26-2021, 11:50 AM

could you tell us what kind of acid you use? vinegar? jimAnything with hydrochloric acid or phosphoric acid. The Zep brand at home depot (rust calcium remover) is a good brand and what was used on my carburetor. It has hydrochloric acid but the dip should only be no more than a couple of minutes if that.....if using at full strength. Sometimes a little longer but usually a flash dip of 30 seconds to a minute clears and brighten things up.

Here's a video of the bike running a couple of days ago.

https://youtu.be/hxGB2SqjNuY

It's got intake leaks from a bad o-ring. That has already been ordered and the mating services will be cleaned with a new o-ring installed. That and installing the air box and taping up those drilled holes on its lid should allow it to idle and then allow me to fine tune it.

I started it today and there's no smoke coming out of the pipe and there's no oil dripping......no funny noises. This will be it's 3rd heat cycle. So far if things hold up this way I will not be going into the motor.

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knappyfeet

12-26-2021, 06:30 PM

I spoke too soon.

Looks like 5th times a charm......seeing some oil around entire head gasket area......also looks like one of the tappet covers has a small crack and it's slowly seeping oil out of that as well. After letting it sit for about 6 hours went to start and some smoke came out of the exhaust.....briefly then burned off. I'm guessing the top end needs to be sealed properly.

Still no funny noises from the motor so that's good.

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knappyfeet

12-28-2021, 01:03 PM

It looks like this exhaust may be unsalvageable. The front hole in the header is starting to grow and I can't foresee this metal so thin and rusted being repaired. It can be soaked in the rust remover/acid but I do not want to ruin a batch of remover only to find it can't be repaired anyways.

It looks like this exhaust was made for this 200 X but it doesn't at the same time. The welds on the muffler look like crap...... Like a beginner did it.....or like someone was trying to fit it. Plus it's starting to crack in some spots.

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knappyfeet

01-02-2022, 05:17 PM

This is the best this front fender is going to get.

Was sanded to 1500 then dry sanded at 2000 then buffed it out. The picture makes it look better than it is….like a personal photo on a dating site but it will work.

Really not looking forward to doing the rear fender but it'll be done.

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jasong_10

01-02-2022, 11:07 PM

That looks pretty good to me, nice work.

knappyfeet

01-03-2022, 01:31 PM

That looks pretty good to me, nice work.Thanks man.

It's got these...I guess you would call them stress lines or something.

This is one of the tank shrouds....see those lines?

I can get it shinier and prettier and even brighter but unless I really dig deep into the plastic those lines would still be present.

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coolpool

01-03-2022, 01:46 PM

I'd say getting the plastics where they are after all the work you've done is commendable even with those lines there. Be proud of your efforts and run it as is. Looks good for almost 40 years old to me.

knappyfeet

01-03-2022, 04:14 PM

Thank you.

It sure is a time consumer!

jasong_10

01-03-2022, 10:29 PM

I agree, very commendable. Considering your goal is a low budget rider, I think they are incredible.

ATC King

01-03-2022, 11:28 PM

It sure is a time consumer!

That's a major understatement. Then there are the finger blisters...

As far as what that texture is called, I've called it crazing for as long as I can remember. Maybe I picked it up from high school pottery class.

Here's a Wikipedia link, and they also mention plastics.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crazing

I've seen motorcycle/ATV plastics that have been garaged with very little miles/hours, and they seldom show crazing. I think it's mostly to chemical degradation from UV rays then physical stresses exasperate the visual evidence.

When it's bad enough, it can't be sanded out. That's when painting is a good option and it'll protect the plastic from further sun damage.

oldskool83

01-04-2022, 08:36 AM

knappyfeet

01-04-2022, 02:09 PM

If you find you need any parts I have a good bit, I picked up another 1st gen Sunday. 3 Sundays in a row I bought a 1st gen. I prob wont do a build thread on mine but its cool to still watch guys do them.

Thank you.

If budget permits I would love an engine guard.......looks naked without it.

I heard PRM is back.....that would have been an option

oldskool83

01-04-2022, 09:56 PM

Prm is dead atc-atd on Facebook copied them. I just bought a desert grab bar for mine.

knappyfeet

01-05-2022, 07:35 PM

Here's a video of it running.

https://youtu.be/0NMEWjoEkis

I replaced the o-ring.....the other came out like it was abs plastic. I also installed the airbox and taped up those drilled holes. It idles better, lower and doesn't hang too much after throttle but it will still die eventually.

Settings before carb rebuild...

- 115 main
- 40 pilot (stock)
- needle 2nd position from bottom
- air screw don't remember.

After rebuild

- 100 main (stock)
- 40 pilot (stock)
- needle position middle slot (stock)
- air screw 1 1/4 turns

Started 3rd kick from cold full choke.....some backfiring. 1 kick start when warm. I'm assuming the 115 and the needle position was done with the modification of the air box and the exhaust in mind. I'm trying to recall how it ran 15 years ago and if memory serves it ran fine…… maybe dying sometimes.

I've got a box of various jet sizes and I'm pretty confident I can get it to idle smoothly once adjusted properly so I'm going to forget about the running aspect of this project and carry on with other tasks.

With $9 spent on the o-ring my grand total so far is $730.

It would be great if the exhaust could be saved as that would save a lot of money.

Warm compression test after 10 kicks 120PSI.

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Jim mac

01-05-2022, 07:55 PM

I keep watching this build and really want to find another X. actually found 2 and a 350x just not sure I want to do a road trip. jim

ATC King

01-05-2022, 07:57 PM

Ain't it great that Honda still sells an air filter for those.

Have you adjusted the cam chain? Kind of sounds like it needs it.

knappyfeet

01-06-2022, 12:21 AM

I keep watching this build and really want to find another X. actually found 2 and a 350x just not sure I want to do a road trip. jim

Hop in that El Camino...fill it up with ethyl and grab that 350X if anything. Actually grab the entire kit and caboodle because half of the fun is in the chase.

King...... Haven't done anything with the motor other than just trying to see if it can be kept alive. I'm pretty satisfied so far and since I've got to replace the head gasket and stuff I'll get everything tightened up and sealed up nicely.

oldskool83

01-06-2022, 10:10 AM

I find the best way to acquire trikes now days is just get parts. This guy has parts you show up, oh he parts for that so buy they. They he tells you this other guys had parts you become friends buy pizza beer have a man date to next guys house with parts. You trade you buy you sell, get parts. After awhile you have all the parts you need and the small stuff....just buy new on ebay done over you have a trike with out over paying for rusted junk.

knappyfeet

01-06-2022, 06:31 PM

2 hits with a rubber mallet and it seemed to straighten the crossbar on the handlebars. Once the bars are off it will show just how much out of whack they are.

Since every fastener isn't coming off without a fight I'm letting WD40 penetrate everything overnight before removal is even attempted.

The exhaust will get an application of WD40 twice a day for 3 or 4 days....just like antibiotics. Even if the exhaust is unusable I still don't want to break off a fastener in the head trying to remove it. I do not have high hopes for it. I remember right before Christmas there was a complete stock exhaust on eBay and it went for around a $150 shipped. Something told me to jump on it at the time.

Just trying to work a section or 2 at a time.

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Jim mac

01-06-2022, 07:06 PM

mix up acetone and trans fluid 50/50. it's suppose to work much better than wd40. jim

Shep1970

01-06-2022, 07:58 PM

When u go to remove the exhaust head studs (if u need to) run that motor till the top end is hot, grab a $3 dollar can of that spray keyboard dust off stuff, hold the can "upside down" (gets freezing cold) liberally spray the bolts one at a time then try to remove- damn thats a long sentence......
coarse as u know they may break any way but.. well thats my 2-cents worth of info

good luck
shep

looking good by the way.

ATC King

01-07-2022, 09:35 AM

oldskool83

01-07-2022, 10:48 AM

HREATV EXHAUST, NICE right high quality

ATC King

01-07-2022, 11:45 AM

I didn't see a 200X exhaust on the site, just 350X header. Are they still making a 200X header/exhaust?

http://www.hreatv.com/index.html

knappyfeet

01-07-2022, 12:42 PM

The crazy thing about the currently available exhausts for these are the exact same ones were half the price ten years ago.

They were barley even worth what they cost back then and certainly aren't worth it now. Many still have the same crappy paint that burns off during the first ride.

Thanks Shep & Mac..... I've never heard of those techniques. I Google search the acetone transmission fluid....they swear by it.

I was gonna do the keyboard cleaner method this morning but instead of the cleaner I was gonna use carburetor cleaner because that comes out ice cold and it was all I had….. but decided to try and unscrew them after overnight with WD40 and they both came out no problem…. one brought the stud with it.

Some of those aftermarket exhausts are cheap and it's accurate in that the paint flakes/chips/whatever off in a short period of time……… and left out in the elements it turns into what I have now.

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oldskool83

01-07-2022, 01:11 PM

just CALL Mike (HRE), he only list the items people buy all the time. There is no THEY with HRE. HRE is 1 person named mike who makes everything. I was over yesterday working on my stuff. Yes he has a 200x muffler systems started...if you don't call him It will be mine in a few months lol.

knappyfeet

01-07-2022, 04:58 PM

The exhaust came apart and off........and just as I thought....stick a fork in it cause it's done.

Couldn't see all the holes till it came apart and there are more…. and the metal is really weak. Not even worth wasting acid on it. I guess if this was the only 200X exhaust system on planet earth it would be worth the old "college try"...... but no.

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El Camexican

01-07-2022, 07:45 PM

Holy moly, there’s enough holes in that thing that there was probably a vacuum if you put your hand on the end of the exhaust pipe LOL!

oldskool83

01-07-2022, 09:29 PM

I just sold a mint aluminum dg rcm. Luckily if you have a few bucks you can buy new steel ones

ATC King

01-07-2022, 11:01 PM

Yeah, after dropping $300+ on one, then another $100 or so (not including shipping) to have the whole thing high temp coated.

Not worth it. Are they even true reverse cones? I thought they were just megaphones with a muffler on the end. Megaphone, then BAM, a flat wall where the muffler core starts. I haven't been able to find a single image of what they look like inside, where the pipe meets the muffler. I've had some reverse cone pipes and it's very obvious once the core is out. Some can even be seen from the outside because the muffler core diameter is the same as the reverse cone exit.

knappyfeet

01-08-2022, 01:56 AM

I just sold a mint aluminum dg rcm. Luckily if you have a few bucks you can buy new steel ones

I've got a used head pipe coming in with the heat guard in place. Looks straight and usable.

OEM stuff left neglected usually fairs better than most.

Now to get a muffler that's not an arm and a leg because some sellers think they are selling gold

Jim mac

01-08-2022, 04:52 PM

that's the problem with 35 to 40 year old trikes. stuff we used to throw away because replacements were easy to find and cheap is now scarce and pricy. I threw away a 200s fork assembly, now I needed a axle and it cost me 65 bucks for a used one. I would have tossed the old axle away, but got it out with minor damage to the threads, spent 23 bucks on a tap and die set to save the axle. jim

knappyfeet

01-08-2022, 08:28 PM

that's the problem with 35 to 40 year old trikes. stuff we used to throw away because replacements were easy to find and cheap is now scarce and pricy.

I know right?

Well bless the Chinese for these knockoffs because for $16 I have this nice looking master cylinder that looks the part. So clean looking the new MC was I rebuilt the throttle assembly.....all cleaned/greased/painted/new fasteners.....better operation. The Dupli-Color semi gloss engine paint resembles the powder coating.

Now my grand total is $746.

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ATC King

01-08-2022, 10:13 PM

Keep on keeping on. For a rider, it'll be nice to have when you're done.

Too bad a muffler is going to eat your lunch. Maybe buy one of those universal Chinese jobs and a little tubing and spend a day making it fit and look purdy.

It wouldn't save any money but...https://www.musketmufflers.com/products/honda-atc200-x-muffler-silencer?_pos=1&_sid=fb7881f0a&_ss=r

At least it wouldn't be an obnoxiously loud pipe or somone's used junk.

knappyfeet

01-09-2022, 12:01 AM

Thanks for the link

It said call for price and I got scared.

This master cylinder even has a mount for a mirror and a brake light switch.

Maybe I can get it street legal and ride it across AZ like Damon did haha!!

oldskool83

01-09-2022, 02:16 PM

i use OEM 400ex mufflers on alot of machines. They are still semi cheap flow ok and don't make a lot of noise. If you want aluminum stuff i just use take off OEM dirt bike mufflers. Those guys chase every bit of HP and for what at full throttle. I scored a KX450F one of a 2020 for $65, welded up a mid pipe and bam new nice muffler looks cool sounds good done.

knappyfeet

01-11-2022, 06:53 PM

I guess I love punishment........ starting to clean up the tank shrouds. Not so bad just a little brown and luckily not that big ...... but still a pain.

Clutch cable came in for $10...for a grand total of $756 so far. Still waiting for $75 more in parts. Not counting a muffler......off the top of my head I have another $150 at least.....gasket set, rear master, chain, etc.

I would love to rebuild the front end with new fork seals, springs, etc....... They are not leaking now but probably will when I start to use it.

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ATC King

01-11-2022, 11:03 PM

knappyfeet

01-12-2022, 02:07 PM

You're actually saving it in as OEM condition as you can and putting a whole lot of labor into it.

If someone was to pay for that it'd be way on up there, but also worth it as it's being saved as much as possible.

Good work and keep it up. It'll be interesting what you come up with for a muffler. The idea of using a dirt bike or modern quad OE take-off sounds good.

Thank you.

I've found on small...."gotten for cheap " projects they always seem to nickel-and-dime you. Since I didn't get this on the cheap the nickel-and-diming me adds up. Anybody can get anything running but to make it reliable and operate properly that's time consuming and costly

knappyfeet

01-12-2022, 07:58 PM

The head pipe came in today. It looks usable just a little dirty........ but structurally it's great. Smaller diameter than whatever was on there before. I was hoping to maybe use the muffler or at least have the option but no. Still satisfied.

Now to find that used can of Por 15 exhaust paint….. Icing on the cake

This cost me $61 shipped.... Which brings my grand total to $817

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Jim mac

01-12-2022, 08:52 PM

pretty sure POR15 isn't UV stabilized, that's why it's used for frames and stuff not exposed to sunlight. ji

knappyfeet

01-13-2022, 01:27 PM

pretty sure POR15 isn't UV stabilized, that's why it's used for frames and stuff not exposed to sunlight. jiYou may be correct.

Here's a picture of my 85 and the exhaust painted with Por 15. It held up really nicely until I sold it. I've found spray painting exhausts with any paint holds up better on smaller displacement engines than on larger ones. My DR650 would be would burn through any kind of exhaust paint within the 1st month… I'm assuming it ran hotter.

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Sent from my SM-T970 using Tapatalk

knappyfeet

01-13-2022, 07:11 PM

The new grips came in today and finishing up removing the rust from the handlebars in the throttle section....it was very heavy.

Probably gonna forego this clutch perch and purchase one on eBay with just a single cable........ to clean it up and get better lever action.

$13 for the grips brings my total to $830.

I think ATC king is right...... Finding a muffler that's not beat to crap is probably gonna eat my lunch.

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ATC King

01-14-2022, 11:43 PM

My DR650 would be would burn through any kind of exhaust paint within the 1st month… I'm assuming it ran hotter.k

If it's the last generation DR650, that may have been because the OEM head pipe is stainless, along with the muffler. I know they came painted black and some later ones were bare stainless, but whatever paint/coating/process Suzuki used to make them black is probably better than the majority of paint that's normally available to the consumer.

I like oldskools suggestion of useing a modern dirt bike or quad OE take-off muffler. I haven't checked Ebay for that specifically, but many times they're still too proud of them. Dang stupid mufflers aren't magic for stock engines, but the prices say otherwise.

On that lever with a brake light switch, a cheap way to create a brake light function with stock lighting is to run a resistor to drop the voltage on the main wire and dim the normal tail light, then use the switch to bypass that for full illumination. It was a cheap trick for dirt bikes back years ago so the OE housing and light were still used without modification because it gives a brake light funtion to a single fillament bulb.

knappyfeet

01-16-2022, 02:10 PM

I like oldskools suggestion of useing a modern dirt bike or quad OE take-off muffler. I haven't checked Ebay for that specifically, but many times they're still too proud of them. Dang stupid mufflers aren't magic for stock engines, but the prices say otherwise.

I've found that as well.

I'm just going to surrender to the fact that if I want a clean usable one that is not all dented up and incomplete......that I'm going to pay for it. Time is on my side so I'm in no hurry.

As seized up and faded and neglected as this trike was.....most of all it is straight and not really banged up..... and I wanna keep it that way.

The handlebars are finished. I straightened them out the best I can, then I chemically removed the paint…. addressed the rust and applied what left over red paint I had. It's not quite enough because I didn't have enough but it's kind of hard to tell as it came out ok.
It could have used another coat but not worth buying a can for. The paint is Dupli-Color Cardinal red and it's pretty dang close to passion red.

Fork covers came in. $22 .......which brings my grand total so far to $855.

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350for350

01-16-2022, 09:52 PM

Those handlebars look pretty good to me.

oldskool83

01-17-2022, 12:48 PM

You might have a budget in mind to 1st get the bike running and going but it wont stop. You will find this, and that or oh that screws stripped lets replace with something stainless then it goes down the line. In this day and age of crazy over priced toys only build it if you willing to keep it. If your a flipper like all these kids who see the you-tube morons do stick to the budget. Best bet if buy more of the, part them end up getting yours free or having it pay you. It makes its easier to tell a wife all this machine cost me nothing at all.

Jim mac

01-17-2022, 02:31 PM

everyone should build that "keeper" trike. and a 200x would be a great build and a keeper. On your muffler, if you plan on keeping the trike for the long haul, they say buy once cry once. Use the muffler you have, get it running and decide if the trikes worthy of a brand new muffler and pipe later. jim

knappyfeet

01-17-2022, 05:11 PM

You will find this, and that or oh that screws stripped lets replace with something stainless then it goes down the line.

This exactly.

Here's a couple pictures of the engine showing where it was spray painted. They spray painted over the fins and you can see paint in places where it shouldn't be and it's flaking up in other places. Now I never wanted to spray paint the engine/frame/swing arm/tank/etc….. but now my logic is..." Well if I have the engine apart already I might as well give it a coat of engine paint". This is primarily because other places were painted and started to make look pretty. Pretty soon the fasteners aren't good enough….. now its time to get out the Caswell kit and purchase $300 worth of chromates… now the entire project is $3000+ because I'm looking at new Maier plastics. It's a slippery slope and I'm sliding down it .....out of control.

Mr. Mac..... although this is not going to stay with me till the day I die I pretty much would consider it a keeper for now. The only reason I got it was to save it and to a degree.....save the memories of it. All the kids that used to ride it now have kids of their own and probably couldn't care less about it...… but at least in my mind I still hold on to some of those memories.

There seems to be a pretty decent muffler on eBay right now… look semi complete but it's $180. I've learned long ago that things pop up on eBay all the time so again I'm in no hurry…. especially considering this sat out in the elements left for dead for 15 years......what's another year or so.

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Jim mac

01-17-2022, 05:35 PM

at least you have a usable muffler and a 200x has a decent resale when your ready to sell it. my 185s came with a perfect seat pan but no foam. in the end just because I decided the trike was going to be my keeper, I opted for a hi flite seat kit. almost $200 bucks (158 plus shipping). it was worth the one time cash outlay even though a 185s really isn't worth very much locally. jim

oldskool83

01-18-2022, 11:13 AM

I'd run a CRF230 muffler if you could find something take off, or a TTR230 one. Have an adapter made or turned to line up. I used converted a 400ex muffler onto my daughters future 300ex cobra header. It worked out perfectly with a turned adapter piece welded to a cobra head pipe. If it flows a bit better that's cool. I do like stock mufflers now days...I dont need the sound to bang around in the woods with family and friends. I bet you can still buy new CRF230F mufflers for prob $200...that would be way better then spending that on a 40 year old 200x OEM muffler.

ATC King

01-18-2022, 12:50 PM

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The little bit of paint missing on that engine...:lol: In my head I'd be like 'it don't affect how it runs'.

Shoot. If you wore MX boots and pants, won't no paint hardly stay on the engine covers and fuel tank anyway.

What really should keep you up at night is those hammered timing hole covers that look like someone used a rock and chisel to remove them. Those are just terrible to think about looking at. Good thing you can't see them while riding though. :lol::naughty:

Keep fighting the good fight. :beer

knappyfeet

01-18-2022, 06:35 PM

Shoot. If you wore MX boots and pants, won't no paint hardly stay on the engine covers and fuel tank anyway.

Haha!....that's true.

But if you look good you feel good..... and it's a scientific fact that it runs better when it looks better.

I'm going to take the engine out and put all new seals, new gaskets, and maybe do piston rings or something I don't know yet. The test will be once the engine is out of the frame.....to not give into the
temptation to repaint everything.

knappyfeet

01-20-2022, 08:46 PM

Got the Eastwood zinc kit out to freshen up some fasteners. Haven't used it since the last time I did a 200X

Used a large metal bar and a rubber mallet to straighten the foot peg.....it's a little better.

Non glamorous nickel and dime stuff going on here.

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ATC King

01-20-2022, 09:16 PM

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Nice use of a tire spoon.

knappyfeet

01-24-2022, 01:48 PM

"Grody to the max" foot pegs got an acid bath and some zinc plating and a new finish.

It took nearly 2 full days of soaking in the acid to completely remove all the rust and the old finish.

Now off to another area of grodiness.

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knappyfeet

01-25-2022, 04:02 PM

The brakes on this machine are all messy. The rear master is all corroded and fluid port is broken. It looks like a new master is in order. That would make the rear caliper and the master cylinder new....so all is new except the brakeline. Of course the rear line is all plugged up.

I'm trying to get it free and unclogged but am having no luck. I've warmed it and blew it....nothing. It would be nice to have a working master.......so an attempt could be made to push the gunk out.

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ATC King

01-25-2022, 09:10 PM

That Rube Goldberg rear brake never ceases to to bewilder.

350for350

01-25-2022, 09:59 PM

I agree King.

knappyfeet

01-26-2022, 02:36 AM

That Rube Goldberg rear brake never ceases to to bewilder.

I had to Google Rube Goldberg

Now I get it

flightofphx

01-26-2022, 11:12 AM

Did boiling the brake line help?

207wheelin

01-26-2022, 11:35 AM

ATC King

01-26-2022, 12:48 PM

My experience with rubber brake lines that are blocked like that is that the inside of the line separates and the fluid is pushed between the layers of rubber instead of through the line. I've seen it a lot on older pickup trucks.
Take care and good luck.
207

Yep, the ol', 'I let off the brake and it didn't let go' thing. That or someone put ATF in the resevoir (I know that one :mad:).

That's why on road vehicles it's advisable to replace the brake hoses at regular intervals. It's kind of like running radiator hoses until they burst at a very inconvenient time. Getting you money's worth usually means a AAA call.

knappyfeet

01-26-2022, 02:08 PM

Did boiling the brake line help?

As of right now no.

To be honest I'm a little concerned as to how many boilings this brake line can take…… and how long of a duration that it should sit in the boiling water. Everytime I put it through another heating you can see stuff ooze out but I don't know.

207wheelin may be correct.... structurally the rubber may be no good inside. There's a guy on eBay selling used ones that are not plugged for $25…. I may just go that route and then dissect this old one and see what's going on.

207wheelin

01-26-2022, 06:54 PM

knappyfeet

01-27-2022, 01:26 AM

I once needed an expensive line for a hydraulic clutch on a Jeep. Think it was 180 bucks for a 2ft line. I only paid 50 bucks for the truck and wanted to keep my costs low. Welllll....I went to a shop that specializes in hydraulics hose and they reused the fittings on that line and replaced the dried out rubber. Cost about 20 bucks. Maybe call some hose specialists and see if they can help?
Just a thought.
Be well everyone
207

Thank you 207.

After a couple more boilings...still the same.....nothing.

I'm going to soak at least one end in acid for awhile because one side nothing ever oozes out. Maybe it's corroded closed.

ATC King

01-27-2022, 09:44 AM

knappyfeet

01-27-2022, 11:34 AM

Are the line ends 10mm?

There's all kinds of different length and end angle brake hoses sold on Ebay and Amazon. It's pretty easy to get the braided stainless ones too, but I stay away from those because the clear plastic coating tends to yellow with time.

Thanks for that King.... I never thought of that

I just checked..…. Why in the hell am I wasting all this time and effort and aggravation when I can get one of these for $10 shipped to my door!?!?

Size matches up pretty close… it's only about 2" longer than what I have.. I think I could make it work....thanks again!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-in-78-in-Motorcycle-Bike-Braided-Steel-Brake-Clutch-Oil-Hose-Line-Pipe-Cable-/293800659036?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

knappyfeet

01-27-2022, 03:39 PM

The bar ends and clutch perch came in today.

Assembled them all on the bars and put it aside until it's ready to be installed. It's nice to have sections and components completed and ready to be installed when you get to that point….. vs getting to that point then scrambling to do it. It's just my method.

Looking at those mirror mounts...... it would be nice to get it street legal. I remember starting a thread in the past after I saw a 250R street legal at a local car show. I felt the easiest way was to get a street bike… or bike registered for the street and turn it into a trike versus getting an ATC and make it street legal....but there was this R pining away.

$8 for the bar ends and $11 for the clutch perch brings my total to $874.

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ATC King

01-27-2022, 06:12 PM

If you'd like a mirror regardless of street use, the Ken Sean 970511 folding mirror works pretty well.

They're a little bit tough to get the tension on the spring adjusted just right, but once dialed in they work pretty good. Not exactly the best out there as far as staying put at high speed or rough terrain, but better than many and much less bulky than some. Going fast, the rider shouldn't be looking behind that much anyway, so on slower group rides I like the mirror for making sure nobody one or two places behind me gets dropped so the whole group doesn't have to stop while someone backtracks.

I keep silicone spray on the rubber boots and they hold up better than not, and don't leave them folded when stored. Can use on left and right side and adjust to look past shoulder or under the arm. They have lots of adjustment and when up, they swing away easy enough to resist breaking if hit.

When new, it's a good idea to disasemble the mechanism, then clean and grease it. They'll work a little better doing that. I almost forgot, but the threads are a pretty common size. The Chinese front brake lever on my 185S was the correct thread to work with the Ken Sean.

A little trick to getting them to stay put at faster speeds is to adjust it to your liking with the stem fully moved against the barrel. In other words, resting against the barrel instead of centered in it an just floating around.

knappyfeet

01-31-2022, 07:52 PM

Finally got the hose cleared. It took many boilings and a little soaking in the acid on one end but it's clear.

Also ended up plating that one end that was sitting in the acid and a few of the other brake tidbits. I don't have any olive chromates so it's going to stay like this. I know it's not OEM looking but it's not a bucket of rusty/corroded crap either........ which was my main goal.

The bake hose may get the other end plated before this is all over.

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knappyfeet

02-02-2022, 05:38 PM

It's getting naked.....just about ready to remove the motor for overhaul.

I can't remember where I was mentally when I started this rescue. I knew I didn't want to paint...and I didn't want to spend a lot because a lot was unknown. Now that I have a better understanding of what the motor needs and as things have progressed along…. I'm considering refinishing the frame and the swing arm. All the motor needs is to be sealed up….. new gaskets & seals… and probably new piston rings. That can all be accomplished with the motor in the frame. My initial intention was once the motor was removed.....give it a real thorough cleaning....all the corners and crevices of the frame and swing arm and then polish/buff out the best I can…. To give it some shine. But now.....as I look around I see rust and faded paint.....seems like a quick paint job would solve all that. It shouldn't break my budget. At the current $875 mark… in my head I probably have another $300 on engine parts and sourcing a new muffler.....which would bring me to $1175.

If I decided to paint it I would use a base clear system for a couple of reasons. 1... I probably have a quart to a quart and a 1/2 sprayable leftover clear from previous projects. It's getting old and should be used so that would take care of the clear. 2....I also have a can of Eastwood Argent rally wheel paint which is not full but pretty close...and also pretty close to the swing arm in color. That would leave me with purchasing the base color and reducer. I would purchase only a pint because a pint makes one quart sprayable. I could almost give a small car one coat with a quart so it should be fine.

I wouldn't strip it/sand blast it down to bare metal....it doesn't need it. It's not gonna be some show piece and with the exception of the areas of rust and fade that would require a sealer....... the rest of it would just need to be scuffed up a little.....the base coat shouldn't lift anything. All in all probably $70 for the base, reducer and sealer.

We will see.

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350for350

02-02-2022, 09:03 PM

It's amazing how deep the rabbit hole gets once you start inside. Sometimes it's hard to know when to quit.

ATC King

02-02-2022, 09:52 PM

If you're trying to rationalize any of the painting, the first purpose of paint is to protect the base material.

It'd be a good idea to at least hit all the steel parts with a fresh coat. In industrial applications, it's not uncommon to carry a can of spray paint with the vehicle to touch-up scratches and scrapes. One of the reasons for implement/tractor paint.

Rust is easier to prevent than repair.

knappyfeet

02-03-2022, 03:25 PM

It's amazing how deep the rabbit hole gets once you start inside. Sometimes it's hard to know when to quit.That's true.....and how quickly things add up.

This sprocket is worn. Now for the complete set up it's an additional $70 that I wasn't planning on.

Still to me there's a lot more than just getting it to run…… like that front suspension. I'm sure it's tired after nearly 40 years of service so to do it right would be about an additional $130. But when there's new fork seals and new fork fluid and new springs and the proper preload and air pressure… along with the new front tire and new neck bearings.... it begins to act and feel like a new bike. And that's way more than just getting it running.

But I don't think I have room in my budget for all that.

When you get things on the cheap....they nearly always end up being way more in cost...to do it correctly.

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ATC King

02-03-2022, 09:32 PM

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If could have been much worse...it could have been welded on.

Did some memories build a mental image for that? :)

Isn't that an OEM front sprocket too? I don't know of any aftermarket ones that have the rubber ring.

350for350

02-03-2022, 09:45 PM

Unfortunately a good chain and sprocket set is a requirement. If you happen to have a chain slip off of a worn sprocket while riding, it could cost you more than your original budget was. I just look at chains and sprockets the same way as I do tires. Every new-to-me trike will need to have them replaced.

knappyfeet

02-04-2022, 06:05 PM

If could have been much worse...it could have been welded on.

I've done that to a moped before.

Here's the initial picture I received via text that started all this nonsense.

Everything that's happened so far was no surprise. Based on that pic I threw out the $500 number. I was told the tires would hold air and it would run. Tires did not hold air...no surprise...but I was surprised that it started fairly easy after years of neglect. All the leaky seals and gaskets were no surprise either. The only thing I was hoping for was to be able to save the exhaust and based on the picture I thought I could. I then found out the entire exhaust was shot and unsalvageable.

I also knew it would nickel and dime me to death.......but even with that the $1500 budget still seems doable.

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knappyfeet

02-05-2022, 09:08 PM

350for350

02-05-2022, 09:20 PM

207wheelin

02-05-2022, 09:35 PM

Not that I'd ever pay that much because I'm a cheap SOB. But the hourly shop labor rates around here are $100+ an hour. One Toyota dealership quoted my neighbor $140 an hour recently. Prices are up across the board.
All the more reason to keep up our DIY skills and keep investing in tools.
There is also a "mint" 200x" for sale here for $4500. Saw a beater 200x for $1500 a couple days ago.
Take care
207

knappyfeet

02-06-2022, 12:43 AM

Seems like it's a little bit on the steep side. Maybe a lot on the steep side. The listing says that there's over $500 in parts and machine work. I can buy that part. So the labor was 15 hours for $1700? He's wanting to get $113/hr for his labor? Seems like he wants to use Ebay for more than just a little bit of extra income over the winter.

Yea....seems like he's fishing for whales.

He's selling the chasis for $2200.

Put them both together and you got a $5000 rig that needs to be restored

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Honda-ATC200X-ATC200-X-ATC-200-ROLLING-CHASSIS-FENDERS-TANK-COFFMAN-EXHAUST-/224810349176?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

350for350

02-06-2022, 09:55 PM

Yea....seems like he's fishing for whales.

He's selling the chasis for $2200.

Put them both together and you got a $5000 rig that needs to be restored

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Honda-ATC200X-ATC200-X-ATC-200-ROLLING-CHASSIS-FENDERS-TANK-COFFMAN-EXHAUST-/224810349176?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I completely agree. You can't expect to get shop rates for doing your own work.

ATC King

02-06-2022, 10:28 PM

On the hour rate subject, if they aren't getting the time from a Honda book, it's smoke and mirrors.

Vehicle repair times are noted by the manufacturer, same as it is when taking a car to the dealership. Everything has already got a time attached to it and that goes into the repair quote. This is vehicle repair, not building contract work. It's a known time for each repair which is why mechanics on commission take short-cuts and tend to screw things up. They're trying to beat the clock and make more money.

Anyone trying to ride the gravy train with independent repair hours is blowing that MJ smoke right up people's arses.

oldskool83

02-07-2022, 10:08 AM

Is this anyone here?

Are these motors worth $2000 rebuilt?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Honda-ATC200X-ATC200-X-ATC-200-REBUILT-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-/224810306861?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

They are only worth that if you have no mechanical skill and want to trust someone else...who knows what was really used. A full motor rebuild done right normally costs me around $700 maybe $900 if I fly cut cylinder bases and blow in a cam....Thats me doing all the work with all new parts, except having a great guy fully rebuild the heads for me.

Rick1956

02-07-2022, 11:22 AM

Quite a few 200's around the Pacific Northwest on Facebook Marketplace in that price range. I rejoined FB recently just to use their Marketplace feature (so far, nobody in the old world knows I have an account again--whew!) I've seen some pretty good deals go by on there lately. Bought a 125m(h) complete and running for 400 two weeks back. (of course it needs work--where's the fun without that?)

knappyfeet

02-07-2022, 04:34 PM

Bought a 125m(h) complete and running for 400 two weeks back. (of course it needs work--where's the fun without that?)

Score!.. need pics.

Oldskool is correct....2K for a 200X motor may be worth it to some but I would AT LEAST want it powder coated proper with new fasteners, tappet covers, etc....and some kind of guarantee it would run. It seems like the description in the listing is trying really hard to say there's no warranty and returns and he's pretty sure it would run. Kinda like the listing for the chassis.....messed up frame, dented tank, bent this..jacked up that.

These first gen 200Xs were a dime a dozen not too long ago....now they are a quarter a dozen....still no gem.

All this makes my $1500 budgeted trike seem like a bargain

knappyfeet

02-08-2022, 04:51 PM

Gonna start working on the engine as some parts have come in. I will a need a few extra things like the tappet covers and I don't quite know the piston situation but I'm going to assume it's only rings. We'll know later when the cylinders removed.

My plan for now is pretty simple… I'm going to leave it in the frame as long as I can and start disassembling items. This gives me kind of an anchor so I can use a little bit more force if need be. As things come off they will get the new seals and I'll clean them up and the gasket surfaces cleaned and a fresh coat of duplicolor semi glass. Then simply set them aside and get ready to reinstall all the items once things are complete. I would love a new set of fasteners but the budget may be tight..... so for now I'm just going to clean them as I go and zink plate the heads to make them look a little prettier.

I forgot how fun it was to clean and remove all traces of 40 year old gaskets. Also someone previously was very liberal with the silicone gasket maker.

Gasket set.....$37
Seal set.........$16
Engine paint...$8

Grand total so far $935

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207wheelin

02-08-2022, 06:58 PM

I'm rebuilding the top end of my 200s and getting the gaskets off has been a chore to say the least. I tried getting some gasket removal spray at local parts stores with no luck. So I soaked the gasket with PB Blaster and just scraped away slowly. I'm lucky right now to have plenty of time to just plug away at it. If it was riding season it would have got silicone gasket maker and I would have been riding before it even set up. But it's the dead of winter and time is on my side.
Good luck on your project Knappyfeet! It's going to be a sweet looking machine when it's done. Will it be trail ridden?
Take care
207

knappyfeet

02-09-2022, 05:38 PM

Will it be trail ridden?

I've never found an easy way to remove motorcycle gaskets. Those gasket removal sprays never seemed to help me. I remove as much as I can scrapping .... then use paint stripper and carburetor cleaner and steel wool.....nothing glamorous.

Yes this X will be used. The initial plan was just to get it working properly and cleaned up. But then I thought…. why can't it be a runner and still look halfway decent?

ATC King

02-10-2022, 12:14 PM

I've never found an easy way to remove motorcycle gaskets.

The secret is...get someone else to do it. :)

If I was running a repair shop, I'd have one well paid employee who's only job would be profesional gasket remover. I'd never wrestle with silicone boogers again or have to deal with sharp aluminum edges and a multitude of cuts on my hands. I'm not running a reapir shop though. :(

207wheelin

02-10-2022, 12:55 PM

I know on cast iron parts we started using the 3m gasket removal pads on a drill or die grinder. Is it possible to use these on aluminum? I'm done scraping gaskets of my current project but have plans on tearing down another engine after this one is finished.
Take care and be well
207

MrConcdid

02-10-2022, 02:07 PM

knappyfeet

02-10-2022, 05:39 PM

a wire wheel on a cordless drill or a bench grinder use a copper/bronze wire wheel of soft metals and a stainless steel wire wheel on hard material.
cant get it all off this way, but its does work very well.

Thanks for the tip Mr. C.

I guess the question is do you guys dress the gaskets when you install them?

I'll use a gasket sealer/dressing on gaskets if need be. Usually I install them dry. Some gaskets I apply a very thin layer of grease on the mating surfaces...... so they can be removed without problems… like a clutch cover or sometimes a base gasket or whatever.

Edit.....come to think of it I probably apply a thin layer of grease to the mating surfaces more often than I install them dry.

207wheelin

02-10-2022, 06:10 PM

I use that Copper sealing spray on the head gasket and the base gasket where the cylinder meets the block. I use oil or grease on the clutch cover because I like to open it every so often to clean the crud that accumulates in there.

What do you use to seal the valve cover? I have always used a very thin layer of gasket maker.

knappyfeet

02-10-2022, 06:49 PM

I use that Copper sealing spray on the head gasket and the base gasket where the cylinder meets the block.

I don't believe I've ever used that before. Thanks for the tip.....I'm going to go out and get some.

For that cover I will use hondabond......which to my understanding is the same as yamabond, etc..

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knappyfeet

02-15-2022, 01:50 PM

The exhaust came in for $151 shipped. I remember the good old days when there was no tax on Ebay....this would have been $138 or something.

It's stock and usable with a little rust here and there but will be chemically removed with ease.

ATC King is correct.......the exhaust ate my lunch at $212 for both parts. One of those loud DG exhaust systems could have been purchased for about $60 more new.

Since this thing will just be used for putting around I'm not interested in performance.....I am interested in reliability. Reliability in running...reliability with easy starting and being dependable. Hopefully bringing things closer to original stock specs will accomplish this.

With the $151 for the muffler that brings my total to $1086.

Getting close to the $1500 budget.

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ATC King

02-15-2022, 10:27 PM

knappyfeet

02-16-2022, 12:25 PM

Good job on keeping it under your budget so far, but if you go over, you won't be able to buy cool vintage stickers. You know, the kind that were sold through advertisements in the back of magazines back then. A lot of non PC ones though...like if it's got tits or tires it's trouble. I think a good ol' Buckwheat decal belongs on a trike, maybe ballanced out with a Alfalfa one on the opposite side. Even better if they seem to be looking at each other.

The non-PC ones are the best!

I don't believe I'll be into the motor for anything more than say $50....I hope. If that's the case and everything else goes to plan I should be fine.

I would love new front springs and a new seat cover. The springs will probably have to wait.

knappyfeet

02-17-2022, 08:12 PM

Getting things done slowly. These timing caps are gross and perhaps unsalvageable.

I'll need to source something else as they want an arm and a leg for them. Maybe I can get them a little better.

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dirtwheels

02-17-2022, 10:55 PM

The 86-87 200x caps should also fit your case cover. Benefit of those is they are hex wrench and don't get all messed up like the slotted ones.

ATC King

02-18-2022, 09:22 AM

There's a plethora of aftermarket timing caps available.

I don't know what sizes the 200X uses, but just typing in 'Honda ATV timing caps' on Amazon or Ebay will bring a whole lot of them up.

Here's some plain-Jane ones for a TRX300: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302766213684?hash=item467e45ca34:g:0igAAOSwFFZbHHd B

Here's some super cheap ones on Amazon that look similar to OE: https://www.amazon.com/Acouto-Engine-Stator-Cover-110cc/dp/B07NC1BL55/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1EZFMTEGSRWUT&keywords=Honda+ATV+timing+caps&qid=1645190667&sprefix=honda+atv+timing+caps%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-8

knappyfeet

02-18-2022, 04:53 PM

A hex head would be perfect.

The picture doesn't do it justice but the cardinal red is a very close match if not a match..…. that's what's going to be used. It may be a closer match once a light clear is applied.

The silver argent will be for the swinger.

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psujeepguy

02-22-2022, 10:54 AM

@knappyfeet - Just wanted to say that I am thoroughly enjoying this thread. It's quite inspiring to see what a difference you can make with some patience and a few new parts while still maintaining a budget. I'm doing something very similar with my Big Red 250es. Keep up the great work!

ATC King

02-22-2022, 11:45 AM

The Kenda Scorpion tires were a good choice. They look nice on the 200X.

knappyfeet

02-22-2022, 02:24 PM

It's quite inspiring to see what a difference you can make with some patience and a few new parts while still maintaining a budget.

Thank you.

Or how thrifty you can get trying to maintain that budget.

I spent way too much time on these timing covers/caps..... But I'm still waiting for the other shoe to drop on a big expense. So with the budget in mind I try to make everything work. Getting new covers isn't a deal breaker but $30 here and $30 there and $30 everywhere becomes a $100 quickly....... and at a $1500 budget there's not a lot of wiggle room where I'm at now.

Also this thing is in no real hurry to get done. It spent 15+ years outdoors rotting away… what's another year indoors to get it cleaned up and operating properly… those are my thoughts.

I can't really get those caps any better… especially the smaller one. The stater cover housing has a nice shifter print ground away in the material.. It doesn't need a new one so I just painted over it and pretended like it's not there.

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350for350

02-22-2022, 10:01 PM

Boy I hope this doesn't take another year to get running. Not after all of the work you've put into it so far.

Hopper055

02-22-2022, 11:14 PM

The trike is looking great that red looks really close I have some spots on my 83 200x around the air box that I have wanted to touch up for a while I'll have to give that a shot. I just got done with my 84 auto x I went a little over budget but I'm pretty happy with it. It came with a white frame/swing arm so I just touched up the white. I'm not too keen on it but for a rider I'll scratch anyway plus not having to strip the frame/ swing arm it's fine. Sure you can buy one for about what you'll have into it but you can put it together how you want and you know it's put together right.

knappyfeet

02-23-2022, 01:00 PM

Boy I hope this doesn't take another year to get running. Not after all of the work you've put into it so far.

I hope it doesn't either but it might. I already got it running the day before Christmas…. ran it through 10 heat cycles before I decided to go any further. I posted a video of it. The head gasket was the worst leak but they all started to seep. Unlike 2nd generation 200Xs the 1st generation needs to have the motor removed to do any headwork. At that point I figured what the heck… just go through the whole thing and button it up.

The trike is looking great that red looks really close I have some spots on my 83 200x around the air box that I have wanted to touch up for a while I'll have to give that a shot.

Thank you.

Yes that Duplicolor cardinal red… I think it's a Ford color.. is a pretty darn good match if not already a match. I have a picture somewhere in this thread of the cap with the paint number for reference. You can buy it straight from or O'Reilly's or Autozone or you can go to your paint shop and have them mix you up a batch. Probably half the cost if that of Honda passion red from Color Right.

knappyfeet

02-23-2022, 10:51 PM

What's a good paint stripper out there?

Hats off to Hondas powder coaters 40 years ago.....that coating is on there.

I use to use Dad's Paint Remover and it was the best I've ever used. Can't find it locally…. not even on Amazon or Walmart. com......only Kleen strip or environmentally friendly stuff that can't remove Krylon paint from glass.

I like to use paint stripper on small little parts I can't take the pressure washer to or larger parts that I CAN take the pressure washer to that makes it quicker and easier to remove stuff in tight crevices.

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oldskool83

02-24-2022, 02:56 PM

paint stripper is now what is use to be, have it blasted anything else is just wasting hours of ones life we don't get back. Kleen strip changed ingredients about 3-4 years ago. Before that it use to really strip things.

knappyfeet

02-26-2022, 09:56 PM

While everything was moving along nicely I forgot how everything was still frozen up… like these fasteners. The heads are rounded off on some. I decided to go back to step one and liberally apply WD40 to all the fasteners and let them sit overnight. Everything loosened up on top except one....which is really rounded. Tomorrow everything should be able to break free.....then get ready to remove the motor. If not another day/night of soaking and it should be it.

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knappyfeet

03-04-2022, 08:08 PM

These tappet covers came in today. Other than that and some slow going stripping nothings changed.

Been busy with my wife's 125 so in between doing things on that I just keep the stripper wet on a part and let it soak. A longer soaking works way better and since I'm working on other things I'm not just watching paint stripper strip. At work we use steel wool to about 50% so I bring home all the old and use it for stripping. Kinda messy but not as messy as the pressure washer shooting stuff all over.

And of course it doesn't need to be perfect........ just most of the stuff off.

$12 for the covers from China for a grand total so far of $1098

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ATC King

03-05-2022, 08:56 PM

It'd be so tempting to polish the cover at that stage, and maybe fill 'HONDA' with red, or even red, white, and blue.

Setting it up for an oil cooler would be tempting also.

How much is on your plate? :)

It's good you didn't set a labor budget.

knappyfeet

03-07-2022, 01:00 AM

It's good you didn't set a labor budget.

I know right?.....it's that large labor budget that keeps the fiscal budget at $1500. Hopefully.

This cb125 will get all the polishing. Once my wife outgrows it I will "bosozoku" it without "bosozokuing" it too much. No funny fairing probably but it will be outlandish.

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knappyfeet

03-13-2022, 02:06 PM

Got a couple of things done but not a lot going on. Motor is still in the frame. Weather here has been perfect for riding so chores/projects taking a back seat.

Still managed to get some covers painted.....and the clutch arm cleaned up a little. It looked as if somebody used a screwdriver with a hammer and banged it. The clutch cable was frozen. Everything seems to move freely so I sanded it down a little bit before plating it.

It's a little bent as well but it's good enough.

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ATC King

03-13-2022, 02:37 PM

It's looking good.

Are you spraying the engine enamel sans primer?

I've done that a lot in the past and it's held up well and I just sprayed the magnesium stator cover on my bike without primer and hoping it holds up better than last time. I need to get it back together and none of the stores had high heat primer on the shelf.

I think last time I done it, I may have blasted the cover with walnut shells and the finish was too smooth, which didn't help the paint adhere at all. I done it with paint stripper and sandpaper this time (no glass beads in the blaster), but apparently didn't get some gunk off because it's got a few fisheyes in the fresh paint. I'm just going to wait until cured and dab some paint on the spots with a brush to see if that'll fix it. Ain't got the time to start over and a paint blemish or two isn't going to keep it from running.

knappyfeet

03-13-2022, 04:23 PM

Are you spraying the engine enamel sans primer?.

Yes sir.

I give it three coats with the last coat being the heavier/wet coat.... Also seems to give it that powder coated look. I found that when I do that and then bake it in an oven it seems to be much more durable. All the paints say they resist oil and fuel but that's a load of caca....at least when you bake it you give the finish a fighting chance.

I'm not baking these parts however.

knappyfeet

03-15-2022, 06:45 PM

I got this engine stand in today.

I remember seeing it in someone else's thread and thought how cool is that. I got this engine and then the cb125 … and about 80% sure I'm doing a little 90 2 smoke so I figured what the heck. In the past I would weld up some square tubing or nail up some 2X4s or something like that.....but this looks so neat. The flexibility of moving the engine around at different angles with ease was inviting. Heck it looks like you could turn it upside down.

It comes apart with ease for easier and more compact storing.

Hopefully it'll be put to use this weekend

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knappyfeet

03-17-2022, 04:11 PM

I was debating on whether to paint or not.

We used all of the remaining clear for a van project but went ahead and purchased a quart....specifically for a couple of side covers on another project and this. I will probably use 2 to 3 ounces on the side covers so the rest is for the frame and swingarm......which I'm guessing 8 ounces. Either way I'm attributing the cost to this project. I haven't purchased the base coat yet as I don't want it mixed and have it sit around for a while until I am ready… so when I'm ready I will purchase.

I'm guessing I'll purchase a half a pint as I can't see me using more than a half a quart sprayable on this frame.

Clear coat cost....$45.

Grand total so far $1143

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knappyfeet

03-20-2022, 01:44 PM

Nice stand.

For a heavier engine I feel a more "center" mounted position would be better.......better than mounting on the side. The 200x motor isn't heavy but it's not light either..... and since it can't be mounted to the lowest engine mounting position because of it's size it has to be mounted higher....more top heavy.

For a larger motor...400cc or something...fabricating some mounts for a more centered mount would be a must in my opinion.

Still I love it. It's holding fine but the rubber mallet just adds a tick more support.

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El Camexican

03-20-2022, 03:04 PM

I think Yeagerb has one of those. Looks like the cats pajamas

knappyfeet

03-20-2022, 05:04 PM

I think Yeagerb has one of those. Looks like the cats pajamasWhat's really cool about it is that I can tilt it to the side and get up close and personal with those gasket mating surfaces that otherwise....... would be not impossible to do.........but just a little cumbersome.. Plus the motor likes to be in that position because how it's mounted.

At that angle the bottom is "grody into the max"… I got some more cleaning to do.

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knappyfeet

03-26-2022, 09:17 PM

This came in last week for $25 shipped. I know.... "whoop de doo...whatever" ....but it's straight and a great deal at $25.

They don't look the same without a skid plate in my opinion. It still has all three rubber bumpers intact. It will need to be stripped and smoothed and painted but that's normal stuff.

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Edit.....

$25 for the plate for a grand total of $1168

I can see $1500 right around the corner.

ATC King

03-26-2022, 11:06 PM

knappyfeet

03-27-2022, 02:19 AM

I think that skid plate looks pretty good. It could be worse and require several hours of hammering to smooth out the dents and weld up cracks. Probably couldn't find one in that condition at a better price either.

I remember when I started this rescue prices were $60-100...on average for one. They've seem to have gone down in price but I was still patient.

Perhaps the market is being flooded with folks parting out old 200Xs thinking they hit a gold mine.

knappyfeet

03-27-2022, 10:30 AM

Nice work nappyfeet and much respect! No offense, but I have to sometimes hide from your thread, lol.. As you're building one, I'm helping get rid of some X's and your thread makes me want to keep them.. Nothing wrong with being thrifty/money savy either, plus what I call 'polishing turds' which I've done my whole life is very rewarding. Again, that's nice work you do!

It's nice to cross paths with you as well, have fun and enjoy what you do!

Thanks man.

Your Nicholson build has me jealous. One came up on offerup not too long ago for like $700 or something totally complete. I was knee deep in this 200X and other projects so I passed. Not next time though.

Keep us posted on yours..... I can't wait to see the progress

knappyfeet

04-03-2022, 01:54 AM

Normal 200x stuff going on here.

Rocker assembly looks good and tight and cleaned up nicely.

Pretty good carbon build up on the normal places.

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knappyfeet

05-09-2022, 06:02 PM

The weather's been great for riding so this poor little rescue is on the back burner. But every now and then I muster up enough gumption to piddle with something small.

Cleaned up the head. Going to lap the valves and paint it soon. Seats look good.

Also got some washers annealed and coated some fasteners.

Those cheapo tappet covers are going to work great

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knappyfeet

07-05-2022, 07:24 PM

I was feeling like this rescue is dead.....this thread is dead.... and my desire to finish was dead. It's summer and I forgot I had a 200 X apart in the garage so I decided to get a couple of nickle and dime stuff done.

Finished zincing the fasteners. Cleaned and painted the head. Cleaned and lapped the valves. I was hoping the valve seats would turn out better but the exhaust seat is pitted and yucky and toast. I reinstalled the valves and did the fill up the chambers with gas test and neither leaked.....so I feel good about that. It needs to be addressed …. but not right now.

I'll just wait for a new head to fall into my lap one day.

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350for350

07-05-2022, 08:19 PM

Oh man! Don't forget about this 200X. We need to see it done (enough to ride). Could you take the head to a machine shop and have the valves and seats touched up?

Jim mac

07-05-2022, 08:22 PM

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjTooyO_-L4AhVCP60GHSMFAS4YABAMGgJwdg&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2qKP0rNSyrgDepw_FdAJmQR8gQV-nHjZMx6KElaBd4qY39a20APh8TB8IjOaWAYwE5JXkGJvfWGEvF EwPwO2UhZQXgxqu9_BHcHdhgwecXIwCJ6bPPg3HaahFAPrksDb zbwaQBGPjODzmvbc&sig=AOD64_1hcv9_5Dnm2g5zdkpZNRXnoyNhRA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiXzYGO_-L4AhXDKkQIHe8PB2oQwg8oAHoECAEQCw&nis=8&dct=1&adurl=
since it's apart, something like this to address the pits? jim

knappyfeet

07-06-2022, 07:58 PM

350for350

07-06-2022, 09:00 PM

Heck yes! Whatever you have to do. I'd hate to see you stop on this project just of something that could be taken care of fairly easily and somewhat inexpensively.

ATC King

07-07-2022, 08:46 PM

knappyfeet

07-11-2022, 07:13 PM

I had to go back and reread where I was at concerning this motor. I couldn't remember where it was compression wise or how easy it was (or was not) to start. I did this after pulling the cylinder off and inspecting the barrel and the piston only to find ordinary wear and buildup. Everything looked fine and after reading again it was an easy starter...in that 2 or 3 kicks from cold and 1 kick when warm. Then I thought.... "Why did I get into this motor?"....... only to remember all the leaky gaskets and seals, etc. I guess I didn't want to purchase new rings but for $30 why not.

Did another test on the valves with the gas in the chambers/port test........absolutely no leaks. It will do for now.

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MrConcdid

07-12-2022, 11:01 AM

Hey knappy, those rocker pads look pretty worn, 1 more than the other, may be just the photo.
otherwise, its always a good thing to rering an engine while its torn down.
looking good

knappyfeet

07-13-2022, 10:35 PM

Hey knappy, those rocker pads look pretty worn, 1 more than the other, may be just the photo.
otherwise, its always a good thing to rering an engine while its torn down.
looking goodWell when Mr. C points something out it's like money in the bank and worth a second look.

It's something I never really thought about but it does look a little bit more worn than I thought. I tried to get better shots of it but it's hard to get a close up. I'll still use them but if I was going to go through the motor proper I would definitely replace them.

Thanks for pointing it out.

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knappyfeet

09-01-2022, 05:49 PM

All this talk about 200X's has me thinking about my clunker in the garage. Talk about new plastics and motors and this and that.......I can barley keep this pile at $1500 ...let alone anything else.

New rings came in....$30.

That brings my total invested so far to $1198.

Just inspecting the barrel before I go any further with it. It should be fine.

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ATC King

09-01-2022, 11:51 PM

That's nothing some Ajax, a dead cat, and a drill won't take care of.

knappyfeet

12-05-2022, 06:18 PM

To go on or not to go on....that is the question.

Maybe it's just the time of year or maybe there's something in the air but I have right next to no desire to finish this project. I can remember when I was gun ho about...."saving some family history!" and " bringing this thing back to glory!" but that is all gone now.

I was reminded that I even had this project when family came over and went into the camper and asked "what's all this from?" My neice then replied...."I remember that thing!...can't wait to see you finish it!" That briefly gave me a little motivation but I'm going to need way more than that though. Right now I'm more tempted to part things out rather than finishing the project. I will clean the motor and get that all buttoned up but that may be it.

I don't know if anybody ever used these Nibbi coils but I have one extra from a previous project. Supposed to be a little hotter spark but who knows

We'll see how this goes after a little eggnog

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350for350

12-05-2022, 08:55 PM

After all of this work, I'd hate to see you part it out. Sure, you blew your initial budget, but the work is all yours. ID you finish it and get to ride it around, that is worth more than the money that you'd get for parting it out in my opinion. Even if you don't want to touch it for a while, keep it inside, out of the weather and work on it again when you feel like it.

Jim mac

12-06-2022, 02:00 AM

problem parting it out now is you might get half your money back and end up with a trike that's missing a bunch of parts.
it might make more sense to bolt it back together, get it running. at least you can ride it. But you'll kick yourself for not making everything nice while you had it apart. jim

oldskool83

12-06-2022, 05:53 AM

This is why I buy a bunch of toys and part them out so later the machine or parts are free. Let it sit a bit and resume it in spring.

Jim mac

12-06-2022, 10:29 AM

while I hate the idea of parting out a trike, I appreciate people that do so I can bring a project back from the dead. jim

knappyfeet

12-06-2022, 08:58 PM

while I hate the idea of parting out a trike, I appreciate people that do so I can bring a project back from the dead. jimI couldn't agree more.

This is how the motor currently sits. Everything I do at this point will be cosmetic with the exception of replacing the seals and gaskets. Sometimes I wish I split the case so I can get a better clean and a better paint job......... that rod has too much play and who knows if the bottom of the cases are leaking… (I don't think they are)… but then I say thank God I didn't at this point.

And when I mean cosmetic I mean rattle can over everything and just clean everything up.

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ATC King

12-06-2022, 10:09 PM

I don't know if anybody ever used these Nibbi coils but I have one extra from a previous project. Supposed to be a little hotter spark but who knows

The problem with 'hotter' coils is on a stock or mostly stock engine the energy required to jump the plug gap is lower than required by even the stock coil. It only takes what it takes and nothing more. Without really high compression or artificial aspiration the spark plug doesn't need extra juice and won't use it.

The other issue is some 'hotter' coils may have the wrong winding ratio and produce an impressive spark in open air but won't in actual conditions. These engines aren't high revving in any sense and unless it's built for racing, with race fuel, even proven race coils are a waste and may even decrease stock performance, like a huge cam in a stock engine bleeding off cylinder pressure and raising the operating RPM to way above what the stock engine can handle, killing low end power. I've driven poorly assembled engines like that and they are miserable to experience, sometimes to the point that a stock engine was more powerful where needed and more enjoyable overall.

Besides all of that, keep trucking. Pick away at it until it's done. Small bites.

knappyfeet

12-09-2022, 02:44 PM

The problem with 'hotter' coils is on a stock or mostly stock engine the energy required to jump the plug gap is lower than required by even the stock coil. It only takes what it takes and nothing more. Without really high compression or artificial aspiration the spark plug doesn't need extra juice and won't use it.

I agree.

It said "racing" so I got impressed.

I purchased it from Amazon hoping it would solve a starting problem… only to find out the carburetor purchased from Amazon WAS the starting problem. So we purchased ANOTHER carburetor from Amazon and everything is fine now.

It's hit n miss with those cheap carburetors but sometimes it's your only reasonable option. In my case usually it's more hit than miss.

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ATC King

12-10-2022, 11:43 AM

It said "racing" so I got impressed.

Ain't that the truth. After owning a scooter and moped, everything I try to find for it says 'racing'. That must be in the Amazon or Ebay title or it won't sell; apparently. I'm pretty certain I've seen a racing camshaft for a two cycle engine...

There's none of that nonsense in the bicycle world, it's just 'lightweight' instead. :lol:

knappyfeet

12-11-2022, 05:48 PM

The barrel is all cleaned up, painted and honed.

The piston is cleaned up and new rings installed....... Both should be good for another 38 years of service.

Now off to the motor for some cleaning, etc.

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psujeepguy

12-14-2022, 09:07 AM

@knappyfeet - If it provides you with any bit of motivation, I have really enjoyed your thread on this build. You've inspired me to keep moving on some of my own projects and also to up my game to your level of work! Cheers!

knappyfeet

12-17-2022, 01:42 PM

Thank you jeepguy.

Sometimes motivation is hard... especially when I look at that rear fender. That looks like it's going to take 2 years to get right. If there's any space in the budget.. which there probably will not be.. I would love a better rear fender or at least a better one to restore.

knappyfeet

12-22-2022, 08:27 PM

As I'm waiting for some paint stripper to loosen up some gaskets.... I scraped a little of the rear fender to see what kind of an uphill battle I'm in for. The front part of the fender isn't as bad as the rear so there's some consultation in that.

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knappyfeet

01-18-2023, 06:59 PM

$12.00 for another can of paint...... brings the total to $1210 invested. Boy paint has gone up in the last 2 years.

For now just letting the remainder of the oil drip out. Tomorrow will be a final clean of all surfaces....then new seals and then the masking of everything. It's going to be a halfass paint job but it will be better than nothing.

Going to try to get moving on this as another broke project may find its way here.

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207wheelin

01-24-2023, 10:13 PM

RedT2

01-24-2023, 10:36 PM

Unless finishing this will have an impact on you financially that you can't handle, I'd commit to finishing what you started. I believe you'll be happy that you did... if you don't finish it, you'll never know what could've been. Leave no stone unturned.

knappyfeet

01-25-2023, 01:02 PM

Every time I go to the parts store for parts or supplies I shake my head at the cost increase. Its expensive staying busy! Glad to see you getting back into it Knappyfeet. If I ever get caught up with the vehicle projects I plan on taking a few weeks to finish some of my ATC projects.
✌207

Everywhere I go its crazy expensive.. but California is even crazier. I can remember when Amazon was clearly cheaper than anywhere else for the same item.. now eBay is consistently cheaper than Amazon for the exact same item. I'm assuming it's the higher minimum wage and 5 months paid maternity leave and stuff like that that drives the cost up for Amazon.

knappyfeet

01-29-2023, 08:46 PM

Final clean on the engine is done....gasket surfaces cleaned and new seals installed. Looks like it was painted before over the original finish so I'm going to let it dry over night....then wire brush all the dried up loose paint and then mask and paint.

It will be a half ass job but I'm cool with it.

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dieseldigger

01-29-2023, 09:37 PM

Come on...split that sucker and powder coat...lol. Besides, that countershaft looks like it needs a little work to get the seal to last.

knappyfeet

01-31-2023, 12:15 AM

Come on...split that sucker and powder coat...lol. Besides, that countershaft looks like it needs a little work to get the seal to last.

Haha!.... I got to give something for the next owner to work on.

Although it's not leaking....your right about the countershaft.

knappyfeet

01-31-2023, 02:29 PM

Engine painted and slowly being reassembled.

Does anybody know that the washer pictured......#13........ is just a regular washer or a crush washer? There's a few things I can't find and that's one of them. To be honest I don't think when I disassembled everything that there was a washer on that..or a thrust washer on the camshaft for that matter.

So for now I wait for a couple of parts and slowly clean some fasteners and zinc plate them.

At least I'm moving on this project and feel good about that.

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shortline10

01-31-2023, 06:27 PM

Definitely a crush washer .
Looking good BTW .

coolpool

01-31-2023, 06:45 PM

Definitely a crush washer .
Looking good BTW .

I believe it's the same as a cam roller type being soft aluminum to seal up the jug cavity where the cam chain is.

knappyfeet

02-01-2023, 06:25 PM

Thank you guys.....a wealth of information right here.

Ordered that and a couple of other things to keep this show on the road.

knappyfeet

02-03-2023, 05:04 PM

Dang it!

Just when things started going so smoothly

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dieseldigger

02-04-2023, 10:51 AM

If you take a couple of threads of that clutch cover bolt, you might get away with epoxying that chunk back in. That's some shitty luck right there...

TexFest

02-04-2023, 10:15 PM

weld it up

knappyfeet

02-06-2023, 08:49 PM

I'm thinking of tipping the motor forward and using an epoxy to fill it up.

My quick steel has been sitting in the toolbox for 20 years… it's as hard as a rock.

Ideally probably just source a half case and split everything and do it right..... but if JB Weld is good enough for the block of grandpa's old McCormick-Deering it's good enough for my 200x.

Jim mac

02-06-2023, 09:44 PM

the 2 part epoxies today are amazing. jim

TexFest

02-07-2023, 02:36 AM

knappyfeet

02-09-2023, 07:07 PM

i just remembered, that i have a whole 200x bottom end if you're looking for a case halfThank you.

$25 worth of parts came in...mostly stuff I lost.

The new sprocket seemed so much bigger I thought I got the wrong size. That could have destroyed the other side case.

$1235 is the total so far.

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knappyfeet

02-14-2023, 06:26 PM

Motor coming along slowly. Had to wait for $10 worth of bolts. Cleaning fasteners and zinc plating stuff is time-consuming.

Now that they have arrived, I can continue with the assembly of the top end.

Still haven't addressed the chip but will do that later.

Grand total so far is $1245.

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knappyfeet

02-27-2023, 12:46 PM

The chip has been repaired with JB Weld.

This engine stand is so versatile.....easily flipped the motor over for the repair.

I used a little releasing agent on the threads, so hopefully, it won't chip when the cover needs to be removed.

I didn't do it all "pretty," but it got painted, and since it's on the bottom, it can't be readily seen.

I'm satisfied and hoping it works.

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350for350

02-27-2023, 10:33 PM

Doesn't look too bad.

knappyfeet

02-28-2023, 06:50 PM

Picked up this headlight guard for $30 on Offerup.

I was hoping I could clean it up and get that chrome to shine, but on further examination, there's too much rust....and the chrome is gone in places replaced by paint. Either way, no big deal as I'll just paint it black to go with everything.

I always felt they looked naked without one.....just my opinion.

Grand total so far....$1275. Already in the driveway of my $1500 budget.

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knappyfeet

03-01-2023, 03:54 PM

The motors all finished up.

I had to disassemble the top end as the cam chain was binding at the bottom, but it's all timed and buttoned up tight......should be good to go.

The stand is all apart and tucked away nicely, ready for its next project, which hopefully will be never.

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shortline10

03-01-2023, 06:35 PM

Looks great

floydechoes2000

03-04-2023, 12:17 PM

I appreciate your efforts keeping this project going and sharing it with us, The X looks amazing, I always look forward to updates on this one!

knappyfeet

03-06-2023, 09:58 PM

I appreciate your efforts keeping this project going and sharing it with us, The X looks amazing, I always look forward to updates on this one!Thanks guys.

Now that the motor is finished, I have to decide whether to just install the motor with everything as is.......or refinish everything and service items that need to be serviced. Everything in my being is yelling at me to just assemble things and be done with it.

There are rust spots and the like, though. It would be nice to clean things and grease things up. The axle bearings spin freely with no play whatsoever. It feels as if it's been replaced at one point........so if I decide to paint the swingarm, I probably won't remove the axle. If I have to bang the crap out of it to remove the axle, I may upset the bearings......no need for that.

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207wheelin

03-07-2023, 10:12 AM

Some car guys I know call that "Patina" Knappy. I had some of that "Patina" on the bottom if the quarter panels of an old pickup truck one time. By holding the gas and the brake for a few minutes I applied some Goodyear undercoating to it and its been fine ever since.��
✌��207

knappyfeet

03-07-2023, 12:54 PM

applied some Goodyear undercoating to it and its been fine ever since.��
[emoji111]��207

Haha!

Saw this Goki starter for a 200X on eBay for $2500 used.

Are these going for that much?

I hope the seller gets as much as he can for it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266159776314?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7YzPeNtRS42&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OVbwHPteQEy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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Jim mac

03-07-2023, 07:58 PM

I've got the goki side cover and ring gear on my 350x. I understand the motors are 60 bucks. I'm trying to just get what I have into the 350x with all the extras for 1600 bucks. jim

knappyfeet

03-10-2023, 04:25 PM

This is the non glamorous gross parts of a build that nobody sees, but we all do.

Against my better judgment, I decided to take things apart and get ready to paint things. I'm glad I did now.......as all the shock linkages were dry and corroded and somewhat seized. The fasteners need cleaning and degreasing and all that corrosion/rust removed. There's just a lot of gunk that's accumulated over the years that became hardened.

For now, i'm just going to clean things and paint stuff and get ready to grease all the linkages and fittings and get this working properly.

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knappyfeet

03-14-2023, 04:40 PM

Swing arm is finally cleaned up and degunked.

I'm going to stick to my initial plan and not remove the axle. There is no play or wobble or anything so why bother banging the heck out of it to get it out.

So for now i'm just going to start sanding it lightly to get it ready for painting. I'm not going to take it down to bare metal because this is not one of those builds.

But I am going to be bummed about that rusty axle...... which will stick out like a sore thumb against the new paint.

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ATC King

03-14-2023, 08:32 PM

I hear you on not getting carried away with it until it turns into a full blown restoration.

What about getting the rust off the axle, painting it, then putting some red heat shrink on it? I think that'd add a bit of pizazz and hold up better than just paint. You'd want to keep some extra of that around because it'd have to be cut off to remove the axle nuts when the bearings need replaced.

oldskool83

03-15-2023, 08:59 AM

Powder coat the axle, than you do nothing but focus on something else for a bit

knappyfeet

03-15-2023, 06:11 PM

What about getting the rust off the axle, painting it, then putting some red heat shrink on it? I think that'd add a bit of pizazz and hold up better than just paint.

That's a great idea.

I may be wrong but I think I remember seeing "axle protectors" long ago. They were kinda like those foam pool sticks/floaters or handlebar pads except they were on the axle and sold as "saving your axle from bumps and scrapes." I'm probably going the shrink tubing route.

The axles widest point is 1.25 inches.......so inch and a half ones should work. With so many different options, oldskools idea of powder coating in a zinc type finish is a great idea.

knappyfeet

03-19-2023, 04:33 PM

Got the rear disc & fasteners cleaned.

I let them soak in the acid overnight then a quick spray with the Eastwood Argent. If you look good you feel good.....and this thing is feeling terrific.

While looking for the chain, I came across these items that were delivered awhile back from the family member I purchased the 200x from. The paddles are nice for the sand but what's more nicer is the swing arm skid plate. That's straight as an arrow but needs to be refinished..........along with those fasteners.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230319/db36edb9ac73efac1c5fed846bfd0015.jpg

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floydechoes2000

03-23-2023, 09:46 PM

I've just come across these cleaning discs by Pryme MX that seem to work magic on old parts. I hadn't thought about using them for an axle but they might be just the ticket.

https://www.prymemx.com/

https://youtu.be/StZre3ottUo

knappyfeet

03-24-2023, 09:07 PM

Thank you floydechoes.

Got the shock cleaned up and degunked/etc.

My wife says.."just get it running already".

To me there's WAY more to it than "just get it running". I could of "just got it running" probably the next day I got it......just clean out the carb and airbox and changed the oil and that would work. But there's so much more. I want this machine to work and operate properly....to instill confidence. That means grease all the linkages and remove rust and clean fasteners and bearings and seals and chainge fluids and new pads and chains and cables.....properly adjust everything to specs....the list goes on and on.

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knappyfeet

03-27-2023, 03:56 PM

Decided to spray the swinger today.

This Sata minijet is simply perfect for small tight spaces and lays down great.

Unfortunately it couldn't compensate for operator error. It's been awhile since I painted and there was something in the line that made the airflow "sputter" and I was rushing and blah blah blah.....totally me though. I think it was in the in-line moisture separator. I'm still satisfied and it will do just fine.

On a different note..... Those welds from Honda on the swingarm seem a little sloppy. It's not what I'm used to seeing from them. They even looked slopier than the welds on my 1975 CB125S.

For now the minijet is getting a thorough cleaning. I have a medium Devilbiss sprayer I could use but it wont be as good.

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ATC King

03-27-2023, 09:18 PM

Care to share how you cleaned the shock up and if you replated the bolts?

I ask because some people may see it and think; wire wheel. Steel particles embedded in aluminum won't do well for the short or long term when exposed to moisture. You probably know that, but other people not so much.

knappyfeet

03-28-2023, 01:12 AM

Care to share how you cleaned the shock up and if you replated the bolts?

I have things just sitting in various buckets with various solutions....soaking away.

The shock was just disassembled and cleaned, and the fasteners, spring keeper, dog bone linkage,,etc was all plated.

Normally, things will set in the solvent, then move to a rust remover or acid, then to the zinc plating.

When I got my Eastwood kit, it came with Autosol polish. After an item is plated, it is grey and dull and gunky. Polishing straight out of the solution takes too much time, and if you use a wheel, you can burn through the zinc. I just use fine steel wool to take the grey dullness out. I usually plate at least 2 times...usually 3 times as I've found only plating once can sometimes allow rust to happen. After you steel wool it polishing is way easier. For this project though I am satisfied with just using steel wool to brighten up the plating.

When I exhaust all the zinc I just purchase more anodes from Amazon

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Just wanted to add......I mainly zinc the fasteners and hardware for 2 reasons. 1....it makes things look a little cleaner but more importantly it protects the metal after you've used acid and the like to remove rust and corrosion. If you didn't it would probably rust in a week....even being greased.

oldskool83

03-28-2023, 07:32 AM

knappyfeet

03-28-2023, 06:25 PM

Whats that kinda stuff run? Locally there's a shop we use to use which was $125 lot charge for like up to 50lbs to do plating. I thought it was fair but never had enough hardware to pretty up so I always bought new stainless since it ended up being cheaper.

LMK.

I don't think the whole kit cost more than $80-$90..... and it's so simple to use it insults my intelligence.

I've taken fasteners out for professional plating and I've had better results from the Copycad Caswell system doing it myself..... it's just a much higher cost to run and unlike the flexibility of the Eastwood system once you mix the batch you need to use it.

Whether you're doing one bolt or a batch of fasteners as long as you have the sync annodes and the battery you're good to go with Eastwood.

Just to edit......I've been using the same Eastwood solution for the last 6-7 years. I just purchase new batteries and zinc anodes when needed.....so cool.