View Full Version : Tecate wont start
Yamaha_Rules69
02-26-2004, 02:59 PM
Its my 84 tecate. I have tried almost everything I could think of, and it just wont start. It has good spark, and is getting gas. I cleaned the carb twice and have even tried diffrent plugs. When you go to kickstart it, it pops sometimes, but then on the next kick, nothing. It dosent sound like its going to start most of the time. I got so mad I kicked it over like 500 times, and no go. It has a working choke, and that dosent help either. I even tried ether, and it didnt work. Im pretty sure its not flooded, because it has been sitting there all winter, and I took the plug out and the carb off and kicked it a few times to make sure. The reed valves are in good shape. It seems a little low on compression, you can almost kick the lever down perfectly with your hand, but it does have compression. What the heck is going on here? x Can anyone help me out?
GreenLightening
02-26-2004, 03:32 PM
I think your problem is not eunf compression. Im no expert by any means but when I bought this old junker blaster. it had plenty of spark, fuel, everything checked out ok. it had compression and the reeds and filter looked good. I spent a lot of time messing with it and just gave up.
took it to the honda shop and they said it needed rebuilt. It had compression but just not enuf to start. sometimes if we pullled the hell out of it down the road the rings would heat up and it would try to run. Just not very good. somebody else could give ya the exact #s it needs i want to say they told me if its less then 60# it wont start, but i have been wrong before.
GreenLightening
02-26-2004, 03:39 PM
Its been quite a while since I had this problem with my tecate. I did have something like it though. My whole problem was in the carb. It still had the factory mikuni on it and it was totally worn out. the needles were shot and it would start but you had to kick it what seemed like a thousand times. finally ended burning the piston because the carb was so worn it couldnt be adjusted and was running anywhere from too lean to too rich.
with the new carb and rebuild it starts on usually 1 to 3 kicks.
KASEY
02-26-2004, 04:24 PM
IN all my years i have never seen a wore out carb, i don't see how a as you say ,,wore out carb can run lean,,, tolerances would be larger in the needle if it was wore out which would cause a rich condition ,, the topend wouldn't change cause it is controlled by the main jet which can't wear out,,, if the needle and seat are worn out ,,, it would flood the float bowl,,, not causing a lean condition either,,, hmmm
TimSr
02-26-2004, 04:43 PM
First thing I would do is take the pipe off. If a gallon of gas pours out of it youve found the problem. If its dry, Id put it back on, and get somebody with a strap to give you a pull start. When you get it started, if it remains hard to start when cold afterwards a compression test is next on the list.
I too have never ever seen a carb wear out which is why I laugh at the notion of "rebuilding" one. Normally only the needle and seat for the float bowl shutoff ever wear.
hondaATCman
02-26-2004, 04:49 PM
I can almost bet its your compression. My 110 won't even begin to hit when just the head bolts are a tad bit loose.
NICKG
02-26-2004, 06:59 PM
ah...before you tear into this or that,drain the carb of gas and go get some starting fluid and spray some in the carb, then see if it fires. it will start breifly if you indeed have a problem in the carb(if it does not fire you have ingition issues...and yes it will start with low compression with start fluid. that is how we started our flattrack engines as the porting was so aggressive the machine had low compression(2 strokes reve and have more power on top end with low compression and have better low to mid power with higher compression)
atckowalski
02-26-2004, 09:37 PM
Try removing your stator (left side)cover and inspecting the inside edges of it and see if the crank is coming in contact with it.If so you may have to add a thicker gasket to keep the crank from making contact with cover.If there is contact, they will rub together and give your spark a quicker path to ground,giving you a random week spark just enough from getting it to start. Just a thought ;)
Yamaha_Rules69
02-26-2004, 09:57 PM
Thanx for all the advice guys! I am going to try about every method that was explained above. If anyone else has an idea, dont be shy to give me the imput. ) Thanx a bunch.
GreenLightening
02-26-2004, 11:27 PM
IN all my years i have never seen a wore out carb, i don't see how a as you say ,,wore out carb can run lean,,, tolerances would be larger in the needle if it was wore out which would cause a rich condition ,, the topend wouldn't change cause it is controlled by the main jet which can't wear out,,, if the needle and seat are worn out ,,, it would flood the float bowl,,, not causing a lean condition either,,, hmmm
Like i said before, i have been wrong. all I know is what they told me at the shop when I explained what happened. I sure am not an expert on carbs.
Thats why this place is so great. people can explain to others why some stories are total bull.
it really does run great with the new carb though. :twisted:
TeCaTe_MaN
02-26-2004, 11:44 PM
i had a bolt come out one that holds my stator on my csae and it cale out far enough to start rubbing on the inside of the flywheel and it ground out and wouldnt start....this sounds like a similar problem... :?
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