Yamaha 225 DX battery charging issue

[Halligan86]

I am having a battery issue charging issue. I have a brand new battery. If the trike sits the battery is drained. We aren't getting charging voltage at the battery when the engine is running
We should be getting at least 12 and 1/2 volts when the engines idling and up to 14 volts when the engine is revved up higher.
There's a chart in the manual that shows what charging voltages should be present at what RPM
The rectifier converts ac voltage from the stator/Magneto into DC voltage to charge the battery.
We may not be getting enough ac voltage from the stator/Magneto.
There are instructions in the manual on how to check the resistance in ohms in the stator
I think we either have a wiring issue between the stator and the new regulator/rectifier that we put in, or the stator is not putting out enough voltage.
The charging coil and the lighting coil I believe are separate coils on the stator.
One additional clue is that the lights are way too dim but when we unplug the regulator the lights get brighter to the point of the correct brightness.
But that doesn't make sense because the regulator is supposed to regulate the high-voltage down to a lower voltage so the lights don't blow up.

What’s everyone think it is?

[350for350]

I would be looking at the regulator/rectifier. You didn't mention whether or not it was charging before replacing it. For the battery drain, try unhooking the battery and then checking it after it sits for whatever amount of time it now takes to discharge it.

[Halligan86]

I would be looking at the regulator/rectifier. You didn't mention whether or not it was charging before replacing it. For the battery drain, try unhooking the battery and then checking it after it sits for whatever amount of time it now takes to discharge it.

That tested bad before replacing.

[ATC King]

New reg/rec? N.E.W. = Never Even Worked

As suggested, isolate and charge battery. Check state of charge every day. Get that out of the way first.

If the battery is good, hook it back up, but unplug the reg/rec. Repeat state of charge checks.

Then if that checks out, plug the reg/rec back in and check again, Then if that checks out...



Process of elimination is the most sure and direct way to diagnose the problems you're having. Going straight to resistance testing can lead you down the wrong path, because even a part that test good, can be bad. Charging issues diagnosis - always start with the battery and work toward the stator/generator/alternator.

Continuity and resistance tests can only tell you if a part is bad, they aren't total verification of a good part. Load testing parts is the most accurate test method for electrical systems, and that can be as simple at an old-school test light, NOT a LED test light. LED test lights will verify continuity, but won't load the system because they draw such little power. One good strand of wire will have a LED test light saying that wire is good, but if all the other strands are broken, only a regular test light (or headlight bulb) will signify the wire can't handle current and is actually bad. A simple test, but it's still a form of load testing. Doing that along with wiggle-testing the wiring as the light is hooked up, will detect the majority of wiring issues the quickest. Simple tools, simple approach, solid results.