rebuilding R forks

[JOEY11]

I pulled my forks yesterday to send them for rebuild but I decided to tackle them myself since it doesn't look too terrible. I was worried about the dampening rod bolt in the bottom of the tube since I've seen YouTube videos of people using impact guns or stripping them out after they've disassembled the fork and the rod just spins so I knew what NOT to do and attempt removing the bolt while they were still together. I cleaned out the 35yrs of gunk around the bolt head and in where the allen tool goes then sprayed some PB Blaster on it to let soak in. I was able to get both of them loose with a regular length 3/8 drive ratchet with no problem just holding the fork in my hand and they weren't loose but not overly tight. I ordered every OEM seal, oring and bushing I could from Partzilla so there's no questionable parts going back in. Also matched up some new front wheel bearings and seals at work so I can replace them since it's off. Maybe I'll start a thread so I can post all the repairs and upgrades I do to it since it's got quite a few needed.

[Red Rider]

Yes, it is a very simple job, but can seem like a daunting task before tackling it. Kudos on doing it yourself.

[BarnBoy]

I have a rebuild tutorial on this forum for the 200M forks. The basic idea is pretty similar I think. Maybe it'll help you out.

[Dirtcrasher]

I always take that bolt out when the fork is together, the spring pressure on the damping rod is what holds it from turning.

I do not put it back in with an air gun.....

If it won't come loose, put the lower half in a vice and have someone slightly compress the tube into the bottom and that should prevent it from turning.

Or, man handle it down and hit it with an impact.

I've never stripped the inside allen/hex out, or any threads, but I take the time to dig out the dirt and use a good metric allen socket.

I always BLUE loctite that lower bolt in, it's basically all that holds the tube in when over extended......

[JOEY11]

Before I watched it being done and looked at the parts diagram I didn't want to mess with them myself but I figured most shops charge a minimum of $200 to reseal them and usually they only replace the upper seal and dust cap. I got all the wear parts for about $150 and I can't imagine it'll take me more than a couple hours. Now I feel confident playing with different weight oils and adding spacers to the springs to adjust how they feel.