3d printed 185s/200s headlight shell

[Mike33]

As you see here is a 3d printed headlight shell for a 1983 185s. I am pretty sure it fits the 200 model as well. If print more of these in red and cleaner, would there be interest in these. I could sell them for around 45-50$(rough estimate).

P.S. this picture is before supports material are removed.

[Mike33]

Also would be able to do in multiple colors.

[ATC King]

With a little more refinement, you'll have something marketable. Good job so far.


The shell bolt area, bottom center, has reinforcements on the OE one. That is a weak spot on any of them. It's one area most likely to break. You may want to make that beefier than OEM. The factory one also has a recessed spot to hold a hex nut. That's not a deal killer, but that area needs something more than a perpendicular, flat mounting tang. Some type of gussets to spread the load out.

The rest of the bucket looks pretty solid. The OEM ones are pretty durable except for the spot I mentioned. Improve on that, and post a picture of a finished product, and you may be able to sell quite a few. Even high volume, injection molded plastics have finishing processes. They don't all come out of the mold ready for assembly. I've got a scar from an X-Acto knife to prove it. Operating an injection molding machine was one of my many previous jobs.

Multiple colors? Yes! :)

[kb0nly]

Agreed on beefing up the flat tang, i have had many of them with that broken. Some gussets would definitely help. How many shells and what is the infill percentage? I would go with at least four perimeter shells if your not doing 100% solid print. I assume you are using ABS? Because then it could be sanded and acetone smoothed, even a bit of body filler if someone really wanted to go for a smooth finish. I generally sand anything that is rough then do an Acetone smooth in a cheap rice cooker, works great and the parts look like injection molded. I used to run an injection molding machine as well at a previous job, i spent a lot of time snipping sprues off while the machine was cycling.

Only other suggestion i can make is that going with a larger nozzle will give you quicker print times and fatter layers but it makes for a lot more surface clean up. I could print one at .2mm layer height and the surface would be nearly smooth on my printers, but the print time would be horrendous, probably 14-16 hours. I did some parts in my MSLA printer and now i wish i had one big enough to print something this size, resin printing really is amazing, but my 7 other FDM printers were a lot cheaper!

[big specht]

How long did that print take ? Day or so ? And what material are you using pla or petg?

[Mike33]

Pla. 10hrs

[big specht]

That’s not to bad for the size of it. Did you use a 3D image converter?

[Mike33]

No, I used a design not by me just to see if my printer would print it. Now I have to design my own rendition to be able to sell it

[Mike33]

Good idea. Only worries is people would distribute it

[Baba Yaga]

I'd make a mold. Parts will be way stronger, cleaner. :)

[Baba Yaga]

Yeah, I guess your correct. I dont really see people doing that

The Chinese would never do such a thing....

[Mike33]

That is what I was getting at, I was replying more about the people on here

[Mike33]

Would painting the print red or printing in red be better. Painting would be closer to the red but could flake. Printing in red wouldn't chip but wouldn't exactly match with the red of the machine

[psujeepguy]

Would painting the print red or printing in red be better. Painting would be closer to the red but could flake. Printing in red wouldn't chip but wouldn't exactly match with the red of the machine

My vote is print in red. I’d rather have something close on color that is durable as opposed to a perfect color match

[Mike33]

Here is the final product.266297266298
Thoughts?

[ATC King]

That's looking pretty good.

Someone could put a little elbow grease into that, with some hand sanding, and have it smoothed out pretty good.

Are the mounts there for the inside nuts?

[Mike33]

Yes and the insert for the nut on the flange

[big specht]

How long did that take to print ? You try the Isotoner to help smooth it out yet ?

[Mike33]

~17hrs. I haven't used isotoner, isn't that for abs only? This is pla. It is actually really smooth and can barely see the print lines. Pictures for some reason, show print lines that aren't seen as easily by the eye.

[big specht]

I’m pretty sure it works on pla too.

[Mike33]

266400
Here it is mounted to the machine. Looks pretty nice. Just listed one on ebay

[350for350]

It sure looks good on there.

[Mike33]

Thanks, I was worried about the red not matching, but it is actually really close.

[sledcrazyinCT]

Nice product! Any member here end up buying one off you?

[Minter fab]

that looks really good on the bike!!!

[Mike33]

Not yet, I have one posted on ebay at the moment. If you know anyone interested, here is the link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Honda-ATC-185s-200s-Headlight-Shell-3D-Printed-SHELL-ONLY/193870571455?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Db89bc 01f711148c287907a6fa89ad84f%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D 15%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D203270171364%2 6itm%3D193870571455%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D238 0057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A7c0ad5b8-6bcb-11eb-b944-428bc1cdfbb5%7Cparentrq%3A8d24ac211770a4d4c1522a94 fff07700%7Ciid%3A1

[big specht]

Did you ever try the acetone to help smooth out your prints.

[Mike33]

I looked into it and it only works on abs. I am currently using pla. I the future I would like to use abs and acetone.

[MrConcdid]

Can you whip us up some 185s fenders and seat pans? j/k

The headlight looks great.
MrC.