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View Full Version : Fuel Tank Repair: Post Yours



ATC King
10-24-2020, 12:05 PM
A rust free tank is almost a myth. By this time, most of the used tanks at least have rust in the very bottom, rear portion, usually beyond the point it can be seen directly from inside.

I'll start with the obligatory picture of just how awesome and rust free this tank is, with a straight down shot, right under the cap.
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Obviously, this tank is worth at least $200 for being so rust free. :rolleyes:



The reality is the rust holes are always larger than they look and there are more of them. Sometimes, the OE paint is the only thing left keeping it from leaking, pick at that, and drip, drip.




Now, lets get real, with some sand blasting of the bottom portion anywhere paint is bubbled or has tracks under it. Then get out the epoxy, apply, let set up overnight, sand down the next day so it doesn't outright look like chewing gum stuck to the sides, then hit it with a little paint so everything doesn't immediately rust.

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Products used: Blue Magic Quick Steel & some cheap paint that's been on my shelf for years.
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I'm not done with it. This was to just repair the leaks so I could use it to sort out a trike I recently bought. I've ordered some RedKote to line it with. It will be totally stripped, lined, and repainted.

The Quick Steel is good stuff. It holds up to fuel much better than regular JB Weld, which I've tried in the past. It's also easier to apply when dealing with larger holes, because it's more of a putty and not runny like the JB.

RedKote is an excellent fuel tank liner and I've used it many times.

This tank has the typical rust holes and easy enough to put back into service. I've repaired much, much worse with epoxy and RedKote. I've also brazed closed rusted tanks, which is better because the surface can be pretty much sanded level. With the epoxy alone, it will always have a little bump to it, because if trying to sand level with the surface, it won't be able to remain stuck over the rust hole. If a liner is used, it could be sanded even. I leave the epoxy under the tank pretty lumpy.


There's a bunch of different products, techniques, and levels of restoration. Please post up what has worked for you!

Blmpkn
10-24-2020, 01:01 PM
Good work. I'm going to have to do the same thing to my 110 tank before I fill it up. Its been repaired once already with the putty but new holes have shown up.

ATC King
10-24-2020, 10:08 PM
Its been repaired once already with the putty but new holes have shown up.

That's the reason for lining them. Once rust has set in, it will continue and you'll always be chasing holes. A liner is like putting a plastic fuel tank inside the metal one.

Also, that's why when plugging holes with epoxy, to always put it over a larger area than just the hole. There is more rust behind that one and another hole is not long behind.

ATC King
10-24-2020, 10:15 PM
I need to add that RedKote uses MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), and you can use that to thin it or remove it. MEK is very nasty stuff, it will absorb into your system through just skin contact.

Something to consider when working with it and choosing what brand and type of liner you use.

I just found a partial can that I still had. This has been on the shelf for a while and it may be enough for the 110 tank. It's still good and flows, disregarding all the dust on the top.

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Also, the epoxy repairs I just made are rock solid. I've been riding it the past couple of days and there are no leaks. Good news, but better is that it's ready for a liner.

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f76
10-24-2020, 10:19 PM
I've repaired some sizable holes in my Kawasaki klt 110 tank. Without any repro plastic options and a halfway decent tank is rare enough, you figure out ways to save an original tank. I have yet to do a final sanding and repaint but its been holding for a few years. I used some screen repair patch, JB weld steel stick, and final lining with caswell plating dragons blood liner. I've tried POR-15, wasn't impressed. The caswell plating stuff is much thicker and doesn't require a surgically clean tank.
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ATC King
10-24-2020, 10:29 PM
I've repaired some sizable holes in my Kawasaki klt 110 tank. Without any repro plastic options and a halfway decent tank is rare enough, you figure out ways to save an original tank. I have yet to do a final sanding and repaint but its been holding for a few years. I used some screen repair patch, JB weld steel stick, and final lining with caswell plating dragons blood liner. I've tried POR-15, wasn't impressed. The caswell plating stuff is much thicker and doesn't require a surgically clean tank.
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That is awesome and exactly more of what I'd like to see. Fantastic job!

Even the trikes that have aftermarket plastic tanks available, many of them don't look nearly as good as the original metal ones. Used OEM tanks range from a couple holes, to what you have repaired.

Everyone doesn't have access to welding or brazing equipment either.

Excellent! Thanks for your input on various products too.