1985 Honda Atc 200m

[AbsoluteZer0]

So I came across this ad while I was at work. $200 1985 Honda Atc 200m, been sitting for a long time, not running currently.

I thought holy crap I gotta try and get it before someone else does!!

Messaged the guy with no reply. Found out he was someone’s dad that I vaguely knew but my brother in law knew well so he got his phone number and I called.

He said yes I still have it but another guy messaged first and asked if I would hold it for $300 so I’m gonna hold it until he gets off work.

I said well when is he supposed to come out? He says well idk but I’m gonna hold it until 6, if he doesn’t show by then you can come on out.

So 6pm rolls around and I decide to call him. Guy says he messaged me and said he had to work over until 7:30 and I told him I talked to you and you could get here before then so he backed out.

It’s a little rough, rear tires are great, front is trashed. Needs a seat cover and a muffler. I started by taking the tank off and draining what bad gas was left in it.

Took the carb off and the jets out and sprayed them all out and slapped it back together and began pulling.....

I did about 15 pulls before I heard it fire....i thought holy trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro it’s gonna run!!! So I kept pulling, hit the compression release, fire...die...

Pull some more.... by this time I’m standing up with my hand on the throttle and pull the rope again and she fired up so I hit the gas and it stays running!!! Man I never felt so giddy when it stayed running and reving!!

Got a new tire coming eventually. Rear brakes are good, just gotta find a brake lever and tear apart the front as the front is tight and does nothing.

Took a little less elbow grease than I thought it would for it to fire up. He said he was trying to remember how long it’s been since it ran and he said he thinks it’s been almost 10 years.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200821/1f6fb2b6a66120e85422403151e78ada.jpg

[ATC King]

Glad you got it. Congrats!

It's going to need a battery, and you should put one on before riding it, so the voltage regulator/rectifier isn't damaged. A battery does more than store energy, it's like a shock absorber for the charging system.

With all the battery choices available today, I'd go with something that won't potentially leak acid like the standard flooded batteries can that must have a vent tube on them. When they get hot, they will vent, and if the tube isn't on or it doesn't terminate below the frame, it's just inviting rust and eventual frame damage.

AGM batteries are typically slightly heavier than stock, but not much more expensive. I wouldn't bother with gel batteries for this application. Lithium type batteries are much more expensive, but much, much lighter and will be smaller for the same power. They perform poorly in cold temperatures until warmed up, which is their biggest problem for starting engines, but they do hold a charge much longer than the other technologies and have a higher resting voltage.

[jasong_10]

Nice find, I saw what I think was one of the 200 variants on the back of a pickup with a for sale sign on it a couple of nights ago on my way home from work. It was right up the street from my house and looked like it had been restored so I thought about checking it out but once I got home the thought left, haha. It's funny thinking back to when I was a kid, I learned on a '79 110, an uncle had a pair of 200s', and another uncle a really nice '86 250sx, and those were just the ones I had access to, I'm sure there were more in the family. Now they highly sought after restoration projects.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I will look into batteries tomorrow, I’m going to have a set of tires from my brother in-law who just picked up a big red but doesn’t like the rear tires so I will have one for the front when he gets his new ones out on.

Friend of mine said he had a stock 200x muffler that might work so I’m going to try and get that to put on it. Didn’t seem to smoke thst I could tell but it was dark by the time I got it running.

I didn’t smell any oil burning so I guess that’s a plus. I checked the oil before I started it so I know it had the right amount of oil in it. For sure needs a oil change.

Inside of the tank was surprisingly clean, hardly any tarnish/rust at all. Cap needs a good scrub on the inside but at least it has the original tank as I know those are pricey to come by in good shape.

I do need to get some crankcase breather tubes as the ones on it are brittle and falling apart. Throttle is pretty tough/sticks so I may end up getting a new throttle cable(maybe a twist throttle as I like then better than thing throttle).

Needs a headlight and a key switch since they must’ve lost the key ages ago and just wired it direct so it’ll start without the key.

[ATC King]

Hose that cap vent down with some WD-40 (or similar). Make sure it's venting.

I've had some that weren't, but worked fine after copious amounts of lubricant. Seems to happen to that style cap that sits for years. That'll possibly save you some troubleshooting later on.

Oh, and the cap gaskets are still available new. I keep some on hand. No reason to have a leaky cap, especially if it's upside down.

Just checking out a couple batteries.
The Yuasa https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/yb14a-a2/
Made in USA, 7.9lbs, 190 CCA

Duralast Gold (Deka) https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/power-sport-battery/duralast-gold-etx15-group-btx14ah-agm-ready-to-ride-power-sport-battery-220-cca/350078_0_0&searchText=etx15
Made in USA, 11lbs, 220 CCA

Yuasa is a conventional flooded. The Duralast is AGM, it's also sold under several different names, but all the same battery.
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/applications/power-sports/
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Deka-Sports-Power-AGM-Flyer-0278.pdf
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Intimidator-Power-Sports-Flyer-1738.pdf
https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank-ETX15-Battery.html

I've been using the Duralast AGM on my 200ES for a few years now. It's still working good. Mine was in stock at the local AutoZone. They have very beefy posts with a easy to use bolt, instead of having to try and hold the nut on the backside and get the bolts started, like on the Yuasa.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Hose that cap vent down with some WD-40 (or similar). Make sure it's venting.

I've had some that weren't, but worked fine after copious amounts of lubricant. Seems to happen to that style cap that sits for years. That'll possibly save you some troubleshooting later on.

Oh, and the cap gaskets are still available new. I keep some on hand. No reason to have a leaky cap, especially if it's upside down.

Just checking out a couple batteries.
The Yuasa https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/yb14a-a2/
Made in USA, 7.9lbs, 190 CCA

Duralast Gold (Deka) https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-non-automotive/power-sport-battery/duralast-gold-etx15-group-btx14ah-agm-ready-to-ride-power-sport-battery-220-cca/350078_0_0&searchText=etx15
Made in USA, 11lbs, 220 CCA

Yuasa is a conventional flooded. The Duralast is AGM, it's also sold under several different names, but all the same battery.
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/applications/power-sports/
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Deka-Sports-Power-AGM-Flyer-0278.pdf
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Intimidator-Power-Sports-Flyer-1738.pdf
https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank-ETX15-Battery.html

I've been using the Duralast AGM on my 200ES for a few years now. It's still working good. Mine was in stock at the local AutoZone. They have very beefy posts with a easy to use bolt, instead of having to try and hold the nut on the backside and get the bolts started, like on the Yuasa.

Thanks for the links, I will check the autozone one. My local actually has one in stock currently.

I wondered about the gasket, the one in the cap is a little dry but I don’t have a full tank of gas in it yet.

The bolt that usually holds down the rear of the tank appears to be snapped off so I gotta figure out what I’m gonna do to remedy that be it cutting and drilling then welding a new nut on the underside to fix it or what.

Is the tank also supposed to have rubber pieces for the front that slide onto the studs or whatever they are called on the frame? If so I need to find those as well.

[ATC King]

Once the fuel cap gaskets start getting a lot of cracks around the edges, they'll probably leak, at least a little bit, with a full tank. Just old and hard by that point and don't seal like they're supposed to.

I think that fuel tank bolt goes all the way through the frame. If so, I'd start by drilling it out with a small enough bit to avoid getting into the threads. It may turn out as you drill. I'm not so sure it has enough meat to put a Helicoil in, so tacking a nut on the back side may be you're best option if you can't save the threads.

Yes, there are supposed to be rubber mounts on the frame posts that hold the front of the tank. They're still available new. CUSHION, FR. TANK
17611-437-000

There's supposed to be a rubber pad at the rear too. RUBBER, RR. TANK
17509-437-000 It's not available through Honda anymore. NOS or used are you're options. Maybe some other part number that's still available will work. It really needs that. You don't want the tank just vibrating around on the frame. Those tend to be missing on the Hondas. I think you can come up with something home brew if wanted. It's much easier than doing that for a ATC110, which those rear tanks pads are more substantial.


Are you going to get a seat cover that matches the decal on the front fender?

[AbsoluteZer0]

Once the fuel cap gaskets start getting a lot of cracks around the edges, they'll probably leak, at least a little bit, with a full tank. Just old and hard by that point and don't seal like they're supposed to.

I think that fuel tank bolt goes all the way through the frame. If so, I'd start by drilling it out with a small enough bit to avoid getting into the threads. It may turn out as you drill. I'm not so sure it has enough meat to put a Helicoil in, so tacking a nut on the back side may be you're best option if you can't save the threads.

Yes, there are supposed to be rubber mounts on the frame posts that hold the front of the tank. They're still available new. CUSHION, FR. TANK
17611-437-000

There's supposed to be a rubber pad at the rear too. RUBBER, RR. TANK
17509-437-000 It's not available through Honda anymore. NOS or used are you're options. Maybe some other part number that's still available will work. It really needs that. You don't want the tank just vibrating around on the frame. Those tend to be missing on the Hondas. I think you can come up with something home brew if wanted. It's much easier than doing that for a ATC110, which those rear tanks pads are more substantial.


Are you going to get a seat cover that matches the decal on the front fender?

Ha I forgot it even had that decal on it. No probably not. I’ll just get ahold of a friend of mine that got a seat cover for his 200x and ask where he got it. His is just some generic blue/red cover.

It does still have the rear rubber just not the front 2 from what I can tell.

So I went and got a battery so it has juice. The start button no longer works but they’ve added a push button to use so I gave that a try.

I’m trying to figure out if the starter is just locked up or if it’s the solenoid. I can get clicks from behind the battery. I tap on the box a few times and try again and just clicks.

I’ve considered removing the starter but I’ve never taken one off before. There aren’t any little pieces that are gonna go flying if I unbolt it is there and slide it out is there?

I’m assuming it’s solenoid related but I can’t be for certain since I’m at least hearing a clicking coming from there.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Well after some thought and tapping I ended up hitting the button while tapping on the bendix side of the starter and it took off. Must’ve just been stuck from sitting.

Fires up and now idles, has a little sputter to it when trying to ease on the throttle, probably still a little bit of old gas/dirt in the tank or carb.

Once I get a new tire on the front I’m gonna put it through the paces to maybe try and get it cleaned out. It does not smoke which surprises me from how it looks.

Glad to have electric start so I don’t have to pull start it every time lol. I do need to get a muffler.

It’s extremely loud without one. I did manage to see if it would go into gear so I went slow (front tire won’t hold a lick of air) and it moved 20 feet or so no problem so I know the gears are good.

I found the broken off piece of the left side fender in the toolbox. May just pop river it back on at some point.

Tried multiple times shutting it off then starting it. Fired up each time no problem. Not trying to make it a looker, just a backup runner when I don’t feel like riding the kaw.

[ATC King]

There's no bendix on the starter, it's always engaged, and uses a one way bearing on the crankshaft.

If you ever think you'll have to take the starter out, there is just one O-ring where it goes into the case. You should have one of those on hand before pulling it. It'll most likely not seal back up and leak a little oil if you don't replace it after removing the starter. The old, hard O-ring can also make getting the starter out a little tough.

They used to sell aftermarket brush kits for those starters. That's typically what goes out in them, if you ever have a problem with it.


There used to be an aftermarket muffler available by the name Kimplex. I think they are the same muffler, but just changed the name to MBRP. No more expensive than what people are charging for good, used OE mufflers, and sometimes, less.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MBRP-Black-Utility-Slip-On-Muffler-AT-7105UT/193617993853?fits=Model%3AATC200M&hash=item2d1488207d:g:zV4AAOSwAmNfL89L
264048

[AbsoluteZer0]

So I’ve also found that the crankcase breather tubes need replaced. Where exactly to they all run? I know one just runs back and has an end on it keep water and mud out but where does the other go? Into the air box?

When I was taking the carb off both pieces fell off so I have no idea where they actually need to be routed. I just know the hose comes off the case into a T then one went back towards the rear of the frame beside the air box.

[ATC King]

You've got the general idea of the crankcase vent routing. From the case, to a T, one larger hose goes down and has a duckbill type valve on the bottom, and the other small hose goes up to the rear frame rail and runs back for a length.

It's important to keep both hoses, the lower and upper. There is but one vent on these engines, so, fresh air cannot purge the crankcase vapors like on automobiles with a PCV system.

On the ATC, the lower hose allows heavier elements that wouldn't make it all the way out of the vent, to fall into the lower hose (why it's larger), while the upper hose does all the venting and is long enough to prevent things from traveling back into the engine during crankcase pulses, which happen every time the piston moves up and down. That valve on the end does prevent water from entering, but it also lets that goop drain out.

I know a lot of people just stick a length of hose with a filter on the end, but that really isn't proper. It needs that larger, lower hose close to the engine to allow the heavier elements to fall out of vapors, which keeps the engine cleaner. The only reason these engines stay as clean as they do without a PCV system is the temperature that air cooled engines run at. Old car engines that just had blowby tubes would form sludge, in large part due to the cooler temperatures that liquid cooled engines operate at and not having an adequate crankcase ventilation system, while the old formula oils and leaded gas didn't help either.

If you want some type of filter on the end, aquarium intake filters work well. They don't have any metal in the construction, so they'll conform to wherever you want to shove them. You can also get a bag of them and just change out when dirty. I use them as a little extra protection. Just put one over the vent tube and zip tie it on, bam, done.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-L-Size-Black-Sponge-Aquarium-Filter-ProtectorCover-For-Fish-Tank-Inlet-CG/233685676724?epid=16035166831&hash=item3668c072b4:g:3PoAAOSwHX9dw3ifhttps://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/3PoAAOSwHX9dw3if/s-l1600.jpg

I have actually seen on someone's machine, where the previous owner had removed everything except the lower hose with the duckbill type rubber valve, and plugged the other end of the T. The new owner couldn't figure out why it was making a farting noise when he shut the engine off. It was pretty funny.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So is it worth rebuilding the carb or would it be better to get a new one off eBay for $20?

Friends of mine have used the ebay ones with no issue

[BarnBoy]

So is it worth rebuilding the carb or would it be better to get a new one off eBay for $20?

Friends of mine have used the ebay ones with no issue

Usually rebuilding the OEM is the better option IMO.

[ATC King]

Yep. Go for the OE rebuild if the carb isn't damaged.

A lot of people go with Shindy or Keyster carb kits.
Keyster: http://www.keyster.ca/
Shindy: https://www.shindypro.com/

Going with a non name kit from Ebay or Amazon, you may end up with some wrong size jets.


The Chinese carb I just put on my YTM is really nice, but the jets it came with were WAY off.

[BarnBoy]

I'll second this by saying you can't go wrong with any Shindy product. Made in Japan same as OEM.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I think for now I’m just gonna see how it runs once I get the front tire on. It sound good at idle and reving. Just barely giving gas it kind of sputters but comes out of it.

Might do one more clean on the jets and such to see how it goes. Maybe there’s still a little piece of dirt clogging a jet but it sounds good.

I picked up some 8A fuses from work since I couldn’t find a 7a fuse. For some reason either the fuse blew or they didn’t have another to put in or just didn’t care to but they had the wire spades slid together so I want to take care of that before it burns something up.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So I’ve found someone parting out a 200s even though he’s telling me he only had the exhaust after asking if I needed any other parts....

My question is this:does the 200s and 200m have the exact same exhaust? Like they run the same way no different bends etc?

He said he wanted $50 bucks for al of it but I only need the muffler. Figure I’ll have a spare header if it’s the same.

[ATC King]

They are not the same.

Anytime you have those type of questions, you can find the answers on retail OE websites, like Partzilla, Bikebandit, and Babbits.

The 200M uses the same muffler, which runs outside of the frame, as the 200E and 200ES Big Reds. The 200S muffler runs inside the frame and exits above the rear axle carrier.

If I was planning on keeping a trike for a long while, I'd just buy one of the new mufflers available and be done with it. Even a nice looking OEM muffler may still not be too far away from getting rust holes in it.

This is one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MBRP-Black-Utility-Slip-On-Muffler-AT-7105UT/193617993853?fits=Model%3AATC200M&hash=item2d1488207d:g:zV4AAOSwAmNfL89L
264139

[AbsoluteZer0]

That’s really all I need is the muffler. Just not looking to break the bank on one.

The 200m I have looks like the header runs along the engine then ducks behind the frame right before the rear fender then comes back out along the side.

I assumed the 200s had the same setup.

[350for350]

I'm fairly certain that the 200S has the muffler in the middle of the frame like the 185S does.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I think it does, I had him send a picture of it. May still end up getting it and making it work.

I have a couple different mufflers but the mid pipe piece is really all I need to get it out along side the frame after looking everything over.

[MrConcdid]

Congrats, the 200m is a great bike, it is my favorite hardtail, good front end and electric start, lighter than the big red versions.
MrC

This is my smokey Joe bike I built up this spring. still one of the funnest bikes to date.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Congrats, the 200m is a great bike, it is my favorite hardtail, good front end and electric start, lighter than the big red versions.
MrC

This is my smokey Joe bike I built up this spring. still one of the funnest bikes to date.

I just finished popping a tire on for the front I got off my brother in law. Going grab a bite to eat then put it back on and take it for a spin.

Just a bear claw but it holds air. Just been itching to get a good tire on it the front so I can at least take it for a quick spin to see what else I may need.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Honda for sure handles better than the kaw but the kaw just feels nice lol. It is a better woods toy than the kaw I will say that.

It is gonna need a carb rebuild, idle and wide open it runs great, trying to hold it and putt around it cuts in and out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/968a907b2aec355fb46ae1116379b344.jpg

[ATC King]

You've got the bug now.


I see your M has been blessed by Carlisle. When you show up to the Trail, it'll know you're a Pro.


I'm stuck with the same dilemma on my YTM . Good tread on the tires, but tires I'd rather not have, and not willing to spend more $$ at this point to replace them.

[350for350]

One of the first things that I try to do to a new to me trike is to replace the Trail Pros.

[MrConcdid]

I don't know your skill level so take my advise for what it is
I have had great success with caltric carbs on ebay out of 25 carbs used this year 1 was a bummer out of the box.
For 14$ you cant beat it. A shindy kit is nice, but its $30 plus labor, there can still be casting wear that the kit wont fix. So I don't, I have a box full of original carbs I have pulled off. One day I will lay them out and sell the lot.
Mufflers, can you weld? if so Tractor supply has a nice $29 muffler fits nice if you can weld it to the main pipe.I also weld a heavy duty washer over the exit, that restricts it by half.

"Cole, Tires is what wins races" you have about 40lbs of tires on that poor bike. I know there not fancy but I really like the knobby Ocelot tire for $55 on amazon, there very light weight and hold up very well, My point is get some weight off that bike, it will handle and perform better all round. The tires on the Kawi are the type of tire I am suggesting, that may be why it rides so good, there softer, flex more and weight half as much.

Headlight, get a L.E.D. replacement light, there cheap and super bright, you have a strong charging system on that bike, it will work plug and play.

As for a seat look on ebay, but I have had very good luck posting a want ad on the various facebook 3 wheeler specific forums. I have bought 2 different seats in the last few months for less than $50 each. shipping varies from 25 to 45 so far.

MrC.

[AbsoluteZer0]

You've got the bug now.


I see your M has been blessed by Carlisle. When you show up to the Trail, it'll know you're a Pro.


I'm stuck with the same dilemma on my YTM . Good tread on the tires, but tires I'd rather not have, and not willing to spend more $$ at this point to replace them.

I believe they are actually kendas on the back. They actually feel pretty good on the trails, got some give to them.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I don't know your skill level so take my advise for what it is
I have had great success with caltric carbs on ebay out of 25 carbs used this year 1 was a bummer out of the box.
For 14$ you cant beat it. A shindy kit is nice, but its $30 plus labor, there can still be casting wear that the kit wont fix. So I don't, I have a box full of original carbs I have pulled off. One day I will lay them out and sell the lot.
Mufflers, can you weld? if so Tractor supply has a nice $29 muffler fits nice if you can weld it to the main pipe.I also weld a heavy duty washer over the exit, that restricts it by half.

"Cole, Tires is what wins races" you have about 40lbs of tires on that poor bike. I know there not fancy but I really like the knobby Ocelot tire for $55 on amazon, there very light weight and hold up very well, My point is get some weight off that bike, it will handle and perform better all round. The tires on the Kawi are the type of tire I am suggesting, that may be why it rides so good, there softer, flex more and weight half as much.

Headlight, get a L.E.D. replacement light, there cheap and super bright, you have a strong charging system on that bike, it will work plug and play.

As for a seat look on ebay, but I have had very good luck posting a want ad on the various facebook 3 wheeler specific forums. I have bought 2 different seats in the last few months for less than $50 each. shipping varies from 25 to 45 so far.

MrC.

Yeah the front tire is super heavy, the backs are a kenda from what I recall at the moment, they do have some decent give to them(not sure how old they are but no dry rot).

Do you have a link to the eBay carb in question? That muffler is the perfect size, I would just need to find a mid pipe to put on as mine stops where the factory one is supposed to slip on.

My plan was to try and make a 200x muffler work (it’s already been cut and welded once on the back end) or I have an aluminum shorty off of a Suzuki 250r I was contemplating making work(looks like a factory muffler) that actually would fit pretty good but I would need more pipe to bring it back farther.

I also need to get on bike bandit and order some brakes and maybe a front cable.

As for the seat I actually do have the seat, foam isn’t too horrible. Just wanting to find a cheap cover to put on and it’ll be good to go. I was thinking about just going to rural king and picking up a small LED light bar a friend of mine uses on his 200x that’s ridiculously bright.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I went ahead and ordered the caltric carb off eBay. Was it just a pull outta the box and slap on or did anything need adjusted?

I’m going to look at rear shoes right now. eBay has them for 15 so unless bike bandit or Rocky Mountain are cheaper I’ll probably just order those off eBay as well.

Also I think the clutches may have slipped a little bit so I’m considering ordering a clutch kit for it as well but I want it to run right to really see how they are before I do order them.

Might be figuring out the exhaust this weekend. I’m trying to remember if I still have my stock z400 exhaust at my parents. I think it’s about the right length and bend. Pipe might be a little large but if I still have it and I can another piece of pipe to make that work.

I just have a hard time swallowing $200 for a muffler/mid pipe lol

[ATC King]

Try adjusting the clutch if you haven't already. Ride it a while with some fresh oil too. Clutches can get some funk on them if they've sat for a while, and sometimes just riding it will set them right.

$200 isn't bad at all for those utility mufflers, considering they're more complex than something like a glasspacked DG or Cobra. They also don't require ever repacking, and have a spark arrestor, all for less than a DG. The DG is the entire system though, with a larger head pipe, which isn't necessarily beneficial on a stock engine. The stock head pipe is dual layered, which keeps it from radiating as much heat as a thin, single walled, aftermarket pipe, and it's quieter.

[AbsoluteZer0]

Does it have the same style adjustment like the big red 250 on the side? I never really paid attention to notice if it was the same or not.

That’s next on the list is an oil change.

[BarnBoy]

Does it have the same style adjustment like the big red 250 on the side? I never really paid attention to notice if it was the same or not.

That’s next on the list is an oil change.

You need to get yourself a manual. Follow the link. I think its similar to the BR but idk for sure.

I have a 200x supertrapp ill be fitting on my 200M, hopefully soon. Will post pics...its gonna require some modification.

Oil...a lot of guys like Rotella t4 15-40. But most atv oils should be fine AS LONG AS they are compatible with a wet clutch. I believe its the JASCO MA rating is what you want. Also, Rotella contains higher zinc levels than other oils which is a good thing

[ATC King]

I have a 200x supertrapp ill be fitting on my 200M, hopefully soon. Will post pics...its gonna require some modification.

I like Supertrapp. They'll soot the fender up is not using a deflector disc though.


Oil...a lot of guys like Rotella t4 15-40. But most atv oils should be fine AS LONG AS they are compatible with a wet clutch. I believe its the JASCO MA rating is what you want. Also, Rotella contains higher zinc levels than other oils which is a good thing

I use Rotella, but it's not because it's my favorite thing to use. It's cheap, available just about everywhere, and my trikes burn oil. I haven't had any clutch problems with it and it seems to work just fine. All automotive oils are using less zinc now, because most modern valvetrains use rollers, OHV and OHC engines.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So as far as adjusting the clutches to see if it makes them better.

I read on another post here somewhere about loosening the lock nut then turning the screw counterclockwise until you feel resistance then turn it back an 1/8 of an inch to set them.

Does that sound right?

[ATC King]

You need to get a manual. Not an Emanuel, he won't do it for you.

http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

Those are no cost.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So I got the caltric carb. Had to swap the top hat and figured I may as well swap the needle assembly.

Fired right up, still has a slight sputter when trying to slow speed putt but comes out of it easily and isn’t as violet as before.

I need to get a new spark plug as they could be part of the sputtering as well since it’s hard to tell when it was changed last.

The plug that is in it is black as all get out.

I do have one question I can’t figure out. Where is the CDI box supposed to sit? Right now it’s just kind of resting between the head and coil. Can’t really find any pictures showing where it’s supposed to be.

I’m going to try a find a good spot to try and zip tie it out of the way this weekend.

I also found out I do have front brakes, just need to get a new cable as it’s super stiff. Probably the same for the rear as the rear I figured out work but the pedal is almost dragging the ground by the time.

May try to button up the exhaust a little more as well. Leaks galore but way quieter than before. I think the biggest part is the piece I used to slip over the header.

It’s off the 200x muffler but a little bigger than it needs to be. Plus it hard trying to weld it since too much heat causes a hole which I ran into a couple times.

Probably go lowest heat setting I can go and mess with the speed. I’m using an older industrial Hobart 120 which is heavy as hell to begin with and .035 wire which may not be the right flux core wire for something like that but it’s what I have.

[350for350]

I haven't seen a 200M in person, but from my experience, there's usually a rubber "holder" around the CDI. That goes over a bracket on the frame over the top of the engine. Those rubber pieces like to rot away after 30+ years. I've zip tied the CDI to the frame and it worked just fine.

[AbsoluteZer0]

I haven't seen a 200M in person, but from my experience, there's usually a rubber "holder" around the CDI. That goes over a bracket on the frame over the top of the engine. Those rubber pieces like to rot away after 30+ years. I've zip tied the CDI to the frame and it worked just fine.

I think I found where it’s supposed to go but like you said, the rubber probably disappeared a while ago. May just drill a hole in place and zip tie it there.

I just finished changing the oil and cleaning the screen, wasn’t too bad. Going to see if the levers off the klt 110 I have will fit this one as I think I’m just gonna let it go to a friend of mine to mess with.

[MrConcdid]

Yes, always change the top hat, gasket, spring and slide when swapping carbs, there can be minuscule differences and make it run poorly.
There is a frame tang or metal flag the cdi has a rubber sleeve and it has a slot for the flag/tang to pass through and hold the cdi in place.
The little bit of sputter may go away with some run time or or may mean you need a valve job. Either way, I'm glad it's running better for you. The 200m is a great bike.

MrC

[BarnBoy]

BTW, that rubber CDI sleeve is still available new from various OEM distributors.

[AbsoluteZer0]

So I’ve been riding it around a bit more, my oldest has putter around with it in the yard.

It never fails to fire right up wether it’s one pull from the pull start or hitting the electric start. The sputtering is still there but not terribly bad. I still need to get a new spark plug for it.

I’m thinking it may need new clutches as I’ve tried to adjust it to get some of the slip out of it but doesn’t seem to make it worse or better.

[BarnBoy]

Clutch isnt too bad to do. Be a good idea to clean the centrifugal oil filter also. Get a manual, it'll walk you through step by step.

[kb0nly]

On the 200's you will need a side cover gasket and a centrifugal oil filter gasket, as well as a clutch nut socket. All easily available though, Dr ATV has them, so does eBay. I bet nobody has been in there to clean it in a long long time. I have had the centrifugal oil filter come out with so much crud packed in there that you think its round inside, but its got three bumps where the bolts go through. You will see what i mean when you take it apart, it will gather a LOT of crud if nobody has done it! Get a couple cans of brake cleaner unless you got a parts washer, clean the inside of the side cover and the centrifugal oil filter before putting it back together.

To make it a bit easier tip it on its side, lay it over on its left side, i just use a milk crate with a block of wood and some rags to prop up the front end so it lays flat on the left side rear tire. Then when you take the right cover off you won't have to deal with parts falling out, aka the clutch lifter and lifter cam. And it makes it a lot easier to get back together. There is two clutches, the centrifugal clutch and the manual clutch. If when you put it in first and you tap the throttle it engages and you can make it hop with each throttle stab then your centrifugal clutch is working, its probably the actual clutch discs that are worn. But you have to remove the centrifugal clutch before you can get the other clutch out. The centrifugal clutch takes a 30mm socket to get the nut off, and its LEFT HAND threads, so clockwise to loosen. If you don't have an impact it can be a battle to remove, with an impact i can usually zip them off no problem, but a breaker bar and a lot of grunting will get it done! LOL

[BarnBoy]

On the 200's you will need a side cover gasket and a centrifugal oil filter gasket, as well as a clutch nut socket. All easily available though, Dr ATV has them, so does eBay. I bet nobody has been in there to clean it in a long long time. I have had the centrifugal oil filter come out with so much crud packed in there that you think its round inside, but its got three bumps where the bolts go through. You will see what i mean when you take it apart, it will gather a LOT of crud if nobody has done it! Get a couple cans of brake cleaner unless you got a parts washer, clean the inside of the side cover and the centrifugal oil filter before putting it back together.

To make it a bit easier tip it on its side, lay it over on its left side, i just use a milk crate with a block of wood and some rags to prop up the front end so it lays flat on the left side rear tire. Then when you take the right cover off you won't have to deal with parts falling out, aka the clutch lifter and lifter cam. And it makes it a lot easier to get back together. There is two clutches, the centrifugal clutch and the manual clutch. If when you put it in first and you tap the throttle it engages and you can make it hop with each throttle stab then your centrifugal clutch is working, its probably the actual clutch discs that are worn. But you have to remove the centrifugal clutch before you can get the other clutch out. The centrifugal clutch takes a 30mm socket to get the nut off, and its LEFT HAND threads, so clockwise to loosen. If you don't have an impact it can be a battle to remove, with an impact i can usually zip them off no problem, but a breaker bar and a lot of grunting will get it done! LOL

Yeah, remember to turn the impact to tighten, not loosen for the left hand threads. Ask me how I know....that almost turned out bad....lol

[AbsoluteZer0]

One thing I have yet to do is take the cover of the CDI off the head and clean the contacts. I’m wondering if some of my sputtering isn’t from that since it sat for 8-10 years not running.

Might end up doing hat this weekend but man it just fires up so easy and no choke every time.

Wether it’s 1 pull on the pull start or hitting the starter it fires up without missing a beat.