Moved to the Yellow Side

[ATC King]

Picked up this YTM200K a couple days ago. Cool dude and definitely a Yamaha guy. He loaded me up with a extra frame, engine, rear axle, and two wheels.

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I stopped by a winery on the way home, picked up a few bottles for some friends, and am now ordering what I need to get it rideable (it already runs). 350 mile round trip, which is nothing for the 1,000 mile a day Ford. :p

[MrConcdid]

We will hold your spot here on team red, everyone slips up once in awhile. no hard feelings

MrC. (nice score)

[Jd110]

Have fun king, that’s a nice pair.

[ATC King]

Oh, I still have the Hondas. Just had a hankering for a Yamaha.


I have a new chain, sprockets, rear brake pads, axle bearings, voltage regulator (adding one), headlight bulb, clutch cover gasket, rear axle nuts, and grips on the way. The clutch is slipping, but I'll tear into the spare engine and see if those are good before I buy new ones. Got to check the clutch drum too, it could be that slipping.

It has good, albeit slightly dry rotted TrailPros on it, holding air decently enough. I can't stand those heavy, rock hard things, but they'll stay for now. Got to get everything else sorted first.

Stating the obvious, it's not a Honda. It seems Yamaha jumped through their butts to get around Honda's patents.

I'm liking the short chain though. I was able to buy one 150 link chain to replace the YTM200 and ATC185S chains at once, just had to buy an extra master link.



Not liking the forks, not one little bit. Actually cost me a RCA surround sound head unit, which fell off the work bench as I was pounding away on a fork leg in the vise, trying to dislodge the seal. While yanking like a madman on the fork tube, I didn't notice everything on the bench was bouncing around until things started falling. Got worried my Yamaha speakers were going to fall, so I got the propane torch and heated the slider until the rubber seal started to smoke. It still took some force, but came out easier. Of course, that was all after I had battled removing one of the caps. The other one popped out easy enough. I've seen the oil and press method for the seals, and the bolt method for the caps, but I wasn't having a hard enough time, so I ignored them. Really, I don't have a press and didn't feel like loading anything up to go use one, and about the time I rummaged through my bolt bucket and found washers that'd work, drill then tap the caps, I was well on the way to getting it out anyhow. Not planning to do any more of these forks.

They did have oil left in them and no rust (on the inside, plenty on outside), and in useable condition, without bent tubes, but I think I'll clean up the parts and set them aside for another option, a Honda option I have sitting around and already test fit.

I got the shifter and rear brake pedal off, with heat and sweat. Dang, they were on there. Got to clean, baptize in grease, then reassemble. Something has to be done about the shift linkage. The rear brake cable is useable and I lubed it, that's good to go. The hand brake cable was on there, now it's not. Was completely seized beyond salvation. The trike came with a new front brake cable and shoes, still in the packages, but won't but used if swapping forks.

The taillight isn't correct, but I may change that anyway. The plastic chain cover is missing and I'm not even worried about it. Some type of home made rack is on the rear, but I kind of like it, so I'll clean up the welds on it and paint it.

All of the intake tract is there and in good condition. I like how Yamaha routed the crankcase vent into the air box with the little baffle box. Less chance of water getting into the crankcase and also keeping out of the open and sucking dust.



I got too many projects and ain't got time for this nonsense. That's it, no more three wheelers, this is the last one...

[DAM shop]

Nice find, we had two for a bit. They are a bear cat to start without the decompression system working. We have some parts left from out 200’s a great front fender and flap. A triple tree and a few recoils I believe let me know if you need anything. I’ll also take a look and see if there is anything else we have.

[MrConcdid]

I said "last one" 2 weeks ago, since then I bought two more, and have a solid lead on a very rough 350x!
granted I sold two in that same time period so really just the chance at a 350x. lol its a wash.
MrC.

[DSHOT59]

Yea famous last words, Last one ! Said that too now I have 4 yellow ones also.:rolleyes:

[El Camexican]

Welcome to the YTM 200 club.

Looks like you found pretty much everything that can go wrong with those things right out of the gate, so once you get them all taken care of you should have a very reliable trike.

If your clutch system is slipping and it can’t be adjusted out on the secondary clutch, you’re probably going to find out it is the primary, or centrifugal clutch that’s worn.

Easiest swap for the front is a 225 set-up if you can find a straight unbent set. The triples are the same, but you need the 225 axle and spacers. It’s better, but not really necessary unless you add rear suspension (not worth doing).

You will want to add a set of tapered bearings to the steering head. The stock balls get pounded out by the constant wheelies that trike does.

Be careful threading the axle carrier bolts into the rear brake caliper and keep them snug. I stripped mine. You’ll find that the back brake is like a light switch. On/Off but mostly off if it gets wet. Warning: Fine tuning the two cables to both work properly may lead to alcoholism.

[ATC King]

We have some parts left from out 200’s a great front fender and flap.

I may be hitting you up for that front fender, after I get it all sorted out and riding. This one is extra brittle. I already took a piece out while trying to work it onto my lift while the front wheel was off.

[ATC King]

Welcome to the YTM 200 club.

Thanks.

The engine doesn't smoke and is quiet, so that's the best part. I tried adjusting the clutch while at the seller's house and it was too tight, so I'm hoping it's just the clutch disks that are roasted. I know how uneducated people ride these auto clutch trikes and start off in 2nd or 3rd gear all the time, which is what smokes the primary clutch. Hoping that isn't the case. That clutch should last the life of the engine, but I think we've all seen people who don't grasp the concept of down shifting before stopping, or understand what a sequential shift transmission is.


I've got the rear caliper apart and will be thoroughly cleaning it and greasing before assembly. The pads were worn low and someone had put washers behind the outboard one, even though all the adjustment hadn't been taken out. It looks like they didn't understand how to adjust the pad contact.

I'm not putting a parking brake cable back on right now. As far as getting the foot and hand cable both functioning properly, Hondas can be a PITA too. Been there, but it usually because one of the cables needs lubed or replaced. Too much drag in the system for one return spring. I've never had a need for a parking brake. None of my motorcycles have one either.:wondering

I'm already using the spare axle I got with it, because the current axle has nearly stripped threads on one hub end. Already got that torn apart and ready to clean. It wasn't easy getting the spare axle out of the trashed carrier it was in. The spare carrier, someone had obviously rode with the bolts loose and just destroyed it. Nothing broken off, but too much wear on the mounting tabs to ever use without major aluminum repair. I hosed it all down with Kroil and let it sit for a few hours before touching attempting to disassemble it.

[350for350]

No more three wheelers? Yep I've lied to myself like that so many times that I've lost count.

[ATC King]

The forks are back on.
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I had some dirtbike bars and adapters laying around, so put those on. Going to stay with the fat bars, but may get an ATV style if these don't do it for me.
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Put a new knobbie on the front too. Didn't want to put the old, cracked Trailpro on a freshly painted wheel.

[ATC King]

It's back on the ground, but still have some more to sort out

Has new...
Chain
Sprockets
Rear axle bearings and seals
Rear brake pads
Forks new seals, wipers, and boots
Headlight bulb
Front tire

Shift linkage was stiff as all getout. Got that freed up. Same with brake lever. Sand blasted and painted shift and brake levers.

Carb was loading up, so disassembled that. Needle and needle jet are flat worn out. Going to try using a Timberwolf carb kit because can't get one specifically for this trike and OEM individual carb parts are NLA.

Tripples seem to be bent, so need to take the ones off the spare frame and try those.

Then...will move on to the clutch.

[ATC King]

I put some new grips on.

These are locking grips for bicycles. An aluminum clamp on each end of the grip is tightened to hold them on.263227263228

Because ATV's use thumb throttles, bicycle grips fit the handlebars. Motorcycle grips are two different sizes to accommodate the throttle tube.

All my trikes have 'bicycle' grips. There's a whole lot more styles to choose from than just searching for ATV grips. BMX grips are generally available in very long lengths, which is great for winter riding while wearing big gloves. I have really thick, vibration damping grips on my 185. Yes, non suspended bicycles have a lot of handlebar vibration so there are many grips out there to deal with that. There's even locking grips that have built in isolation, but they're expensive.

[ATC King]

The Timberwolf kit was useable. Not all of it, but enough I was able to get the main things taken care of and the YTM running better.

First off, the bowl gasket is a no go. Besides that, I used the needle, needle jet, idle mixture screw, float needle, float seat, various O-rings, and both jets. I used the no-number jets in the kit because I wasn't sure if someone had hogged out the original ones. It idles great now and runs good up top, but there's a mid problem, so I'll probably put the original jets in to see if that's it. This was a Ebay kit, so <$15. Considering this is about the only option for a kit, that's a good deal. The float bowl gasket is still available OEM if that is needed.

One of the main issues was the (original?) needle. It looks like aluminum, is pitted and very thin. The needle jet had tool marks on it like someone tried removing it or who knows. I mainly bought this kit for those parts, but a new float needle and seat were nice to have.

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[ATC King]

I've determined there's a leak in the '83 YTM200 manifold at the carb. I'll get everything going OK, then next day it's not.

Being this is a first year deal and I've got the later manifold on the spare engine, I'm going to try swapping to the bolt on manifold and carb. I've ordered a Chinese carb. We'll see.

The carb had the stock jets, but it was loading up, which makes me think they were drilled out. No idea, but parts for this '83 YTM are like hen's teeth. Not like I'm used to with the Hondas. If it's ignition issues, I might drop the whole trike in a vat of acid to fix it.

While I was looking at optional carburetors I came across this...FUXU PWK 30mm Carburetor Carb For Keihin Koso OKO Carburetor Universal Dirt Bike Motorcycle Scooter ATV https://www.keihincarburetor.com/fuxu-pwk-30mm-carburetor-carb-for-keihin-koso-oko-carburetor-universal-dirt-bike-motorcycle-scooter-atv/


Will a FUXU carb do me right? All night long?



Also, the dirt bike bars weren't doing it (too low and not enough pullback), so I got some Pro Taper Raptor bars. When they come in, I'll post.

[MrConcdid]

Now, look what you made me do. I had a hard fast rule ONLY Honda's, but right between these 2 Big Reds set this blue thing. I had to buy it as a packaged deal. I ain't changing teams (not that there is anything wrong with that), I'm just saying.

I got home late in the rain, I haven't even unloaded them yet, after 24 years of neglect, 1 more night shouldn't kill them.
Just parts bikes, I didn't have any 250es parts bikes, I do now and this Blue thing, I think its a 84/85 200e Yamaha? not sure, never saw one before today.
I had a tractor job and near where these were being sold, I had to make it home in one trip. Look closely, a 72 inch front bucket, spare, jack, tool box, extra fluids, and 3 -3 wheeler's, try that in a regular truck bed, gotta love a flatbed dually.

MrC.

[ATC King]

The blue Yamahas look pretty cool. That one looks frozen.

I wonder if the front rack will fit my 200.

[ATC King]

I got the new handlebars in and they're what I was expecting, perfect for the trike. The are the Raptor bend, the tallest bars they had and I think with the most pullback. My experience with these type of bars is they are much, much, much harder to bend in a crash than carbon steel and especially stock Honda bars. They still have a good bit of flex which can be seen by standing and pushing down on them.

The YTM bar mounts face more backwards than upwards, so with the 1-1/8 bar adapters, they're even farther back and a little higher. Cables and and wires are fine, not stretched tight.

I usually buy the carbon steel Moose Racing ATV High bars, and the dimensions work well on the trikes, but they do bend fairly easily. No as easily as OE, non-crossbar Honda bars, but still pretty easy.

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I was hooking the front brake back up, but only had a Honda brake hose that was too long for the YTM. Does anyone know the part number for a 1983 YTM200 front brake hose? I can't find one online.

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[ATC King]

Made a little more progress. I got the Chinese carb installed. It looks pretty dang good compared to what I thought it was going to be. I ordered some stock jets (don't have yet). Still has some mid throttle running issues, like a stumble. I haven't ruled out the ignition.
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I got a decent length brake hose. I guess it was for a blue Yamaha.?
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The clutch...is sucking some money. I was hoping the spare engine had a good centrifugal clutch, but HELL NO! Apparently the spring had come apart inside the drum, some time ago, as evident by the notches worn into the clutch. This is exactly how it looked when I pulled it out (pic is of the backside).

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I've ordered all new clutches, both of them. I'm not popping the cover until I have some new parts in hand.

The spare engine is probably only good for case parts, if even that (chain got into the left side). The oil filter was covered in grey and had hole in it. Will probably fully dismantle and put into a box what's useable.
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[El Camexican]

I was hooking the front brake back up, but only had a Honda brake hose that was too long for the YTM. Does anyone know the part number for a 1983 YTM200 front brake hose? I can't find one online.

263364

What front do you have on that trike??? That’s not a YTM hub or forks. They came with cable operated drums mounted on the left side.

Versa oil filters are on eBay and a Timberwolf centrifugal clutch works. I think you might need to use some of the YTM mounting hardware, but I can’t remember what exactly. A washer, spacer or nut maybe? It’s been years since I put one on, you’ll figure it out.

[ATC King]

I've already got some oil filters, and I did order the ATV style clutch, which looks like a better design.

'81-'82 250R forks and front hub/disc. 30mm, just like the YTM ones, slid into the YTM trees. I need to slide them up a little to get the steering right. I was waiting for someone to say something :lol: Dropping hints like cluster bombs.

I had them laying around for something else, but then I got this YTM and started looking at it and them...

Master cylinder is XR600R (already had it), caliper is a Ebay Chinese special that was real close to a 250R front one (much less expensive). I made a caliper bracket and used a 185S or 200S front wheel I had around. Just got the brake hose in a couple days ago (Ebay special).

Full disc brake hardtail baby!

[ATC King]

Waiting on parts. 90% of what I'm ordering isn't being delivered on time, through any of the carriers. I'm not making ANY more orders through the OEM retailers this year, it's taking a month to get parts through them.


I've been playing with the jetting and needle, but there is a certain RPM, no matter if I bang on it or creep up to it, it cuts out like an ignition issue for a second or two, then resumes running. The CDI must have advancing built into it, because there is no mechanical advance like on the 200cc Hondas. It seems like a certain RPM is triggering the problem, and it's at some advance point, like some circuitry is bad, maybe a capacitor or resistor. I'll order a used OEM CDI and try that. If that solves it, I'm gong to buy a Chinese CDI to test so I have options for a inexpensive, new CDI.

[ATC King]

I got to work on the clutch today. And...someone has been in there before and didn't tighten things.

The nuts on the primary and secondary clutches were completely loose, not even hand tight. The only thing keeping them in place were the locking tabs. The clutches don't look completely shot, so :wondering

The bolts in the clutch basket look factory, but bottom out before completely tightening. Not sure what's up there, but going to fix that.

I have a Timberwolf/YTF clutch for it, but neglected to research further and need a different washer and locking ring. I bought a new locking ring for the YTM200 clutch, but that won't work. After looking for some answers, I found this thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/143422-YTM-225DX-centrifugal-clutch-info-update

I'll get those parts on the way. Maybe they'll be here by next month.

The clutch I pulled out was at minimum thickness, but looks OK. Same for the clutch plates, which basically look new. Whoever was in it last, at least used a Yamaha gasket and didn't smear silicone all over the thing, so it came off easy, without having to scrape for an hour.

I'm not really sure why the clutch was acting up. Maybe they put some automotive oil in that didn't agree with it. Regardless, I was suspect of what was under the cover, and the loose nuts confirmed that.

I haven't done much but spend money and work on it. I may name it Gomer Pile, yes, with an I, because it's starting to be a real pile of crap. I found some JB Weld on the stator cover after pressure washing it, to get ready to look at the clutch. Chain damage.:rolleyes:

I think I also learned the oil filter cover won't come of without taking the right rear wheel off, because there is one really long bolt in the cover. Yamaha, what the hell?

[El Camexican]

I have a Timberwolf/YTF clutch for it, but neglected to research further and need a different washer and locking ring. I bought a new locking ring for the YTM200 clutch, but that won't work. After looking for some answers, I found this thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/143422-YTM-225DX-centrifugal-clutch-info-update

I don't remember exactly what I did, but between the parts that came with the clutch and what was with the trike originally I made it all fit.



I think I also learned the oil filter cover won't come of without taking the right rear wheel off, because there is one really long bolt in the cover. Yamaha, what the hell?

From what little I can recall from the day you can probably thank Honda's patent lawyers for the location of that bolt as well as your non-stop wheelies. Yamaha likely employed more lawyers than engineers to build that trike and the result is a very front light trike with a weird frame.

However, you may take solace in knowing that unlike ALL THE HONDAS EVER MADE your gas tank will never rust out or dent and when you run out of gas, you're really out of gas!

[ATC King]

However, you may take solace in knowing that unlike ALL THE HONDAS EVER MADE your gas tank will never rust out or dent and when you run out of gas, you're really out of gas!

While true, and good in many ways, it also means the tank has to be completely empty to take off without spilling gas all over the trike. Fuel tank crossover tubes have their downside.

Another benefit of the Yamaha design though, is the plastic fuel tank is covered by another plastic...cover. The fuel tank itself is very protected from sun damage and knee abrasion.

[El Camexican]

While true, and good in many ways, it also means the tank has to be completely empty to take off without spilling gas all over the trike. Fuel tank crossover tubes have their downside.

Another benefit of the Yamaha design though, is the plastic fuel tank is covered by another plastic...cover. The fuel tank itself is very protected from sun damage and knee abrasion.

You’re right, completely draining the tank can be a pain in the azz, but it’s never a bad idea to completely drain the tank once in a while.

Good thing is there’s not a lot of reasons to have to take that tank off.

[ATC King]

Alright, I've got the clutches back in. Waiting on a gasket to put the cover back on. Stupid Yamaha has two pieces to the clutch cover, and stupid me ordered the wrong gasket the first time.

Here's the skinny on the upgraded primary clutch (centrifugal):

At the bare minimum, there are three parts to change, the clutch, washer (between clutch and one way bearing), and the lock washer.

CLUTCH CARRIER ASSY (available aftermarket for less than half the price)
4BD-16620-00-00

WASHER, PLATE
90201-404M6-00

WASHER, LOCK
90215-22259-00

All of those parts span from the early 1980's into the early 2000's. Pretty cool. Entire, used clutch assemblies are plentiful and inexpensive on EBay right now. Most are from later quads. I'd still want to use a new lock washer. Those tabs don't like being bent twice and a chuck of loose steel floating around in the engine isn't a good thing.


Pictures, old style on left, new style on right.
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One thing to note, is the new drum isn't the riveted construction of the old one, but it fits the same. They are also currently available, new, for less than $150. Guys and gals, if you plan to keep a YTM in the stable, that's going to be something you'll want to have around for later and it's not a bad price for a new major part. I got one of the last few Honda ATC clutch drums, and should have bought at least one more before Honda quite selling them. NOS will drive the prices higher.

The one way bearing, the bearing collar, the nut, the washer that goes between the drum and crankshaft, those are all the same parts as the early YTM stuff, so it all swaps. Way to go Yamaha!



Now something cool and unexpected. Maybe a performance gain.

I weighed the old style and updated assemblies. These are used, so weights are approximate. The old assembly, 4lb 9.8oz. The new, 3lb 15oz.

That's over half a pound less of rotating mass on the crankshaft!


Back to "the bare minimum" part. The number of grooves in the clutch is different between the two. Technically, the old drum can be used, but because used parts have wear and the worn grooves of the old drum are fewer than the new, parts won't mesh right and available surface for clutch friction will be reduced. I don't know the effect it will have on clutch holding power, it's just something to think about. Buying an entire used assembly will cancel that out, as the parts are worn together. At least buying a new style, used drum, will have similar groove patterns to match a new aftermarket clutch.

Or, just buy a new drum and don't worry about it for the next 30 years.


In a Columbo voice...Just one more thing. The aftermarket clutch was difficult to fit. These are available on EBay and Amazon. The problem was it would go partially on and get stuck. I had to use a Dremel with a sanding drum on the teeth, a little at a time, and it eventually went on, still tighter than the OE clutch though. The more I test fit it, the easier it went on, but still a bit of a problem. For less than half the price, not really a problem.

The new aftermarket clutch isn't in any of the pictures. I use all the OE stuff for comparison.

[ATC King]

A week and a half later, the clutch cover gasket finally arrived.

I got it buttoned up today and boy does it feel good just to have something working like it should. All new clutches and it's rocking and rolling. It's sounding better too, because those loose clutch nuts were causing a rattle under certain loads.

There was also a part in backwards, that I discovered just before putting the cover on. Part #14 (pretty gosh darn important)
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Remember, the clutch was out of adjustment when I first seen this trike at the sellers house. There is a lip on the center of that part, and being backwards (lip's supposed to face in), the ramp function that it's designed to provide to release the clutch, was more apt to hold the clutch open because the lip on the wrong side made the whole assembly wider than what it's supposed to be.

I worriedly looked for anymore questionable wrenching after that and before putting the cover on. Too much crap was wrong under this clutch cover. I'm sure this entire trike has had a bunch of hands on and in it that didn't have the Midas touch.


It's too hot to be dicking with this thing all day, so I called it quits after a short ride to make sure the clutches were functioning properly. Although, I did take the sparkplug cap off to test if it had a good resistor in it, and it did. I was concerned it was just a straight through plug cap, because it looks like Chinese aftermarket. Though it may be jacking with the CDI. Ruled that out. I've got to get onto sorting out the running next, but it seems to be better now. I've got that used CDI to try on it. If nothing else, it'll be nice to have a spare one.

Sliding the forks up about an inch made it steer better. I may still slide them up some more. I've still got to get a working tail light and add that voltage regulator. Depending if I keep this one, I may convert it to DC.

[ATC King]

I got around to messing with the carb yesterday. It's the Chinese carb that I swapped over the the later style YTM on this 200K.

The carb itself is pretty nice, but the jetting was way too lean. I bought the stock size jets that many of the YTM use with the later carb, 25/112.5. That actually turned out to be a little too rich in this application. Fuel screw set at half turn, so the pilot is borderline rich, but this was at 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit, so I'm going to leave it. Should be better at colder temps, and I do have a 20 if not.

I drilled one of the Chinese main jets to about a 110, but it still loads up on the very, very top. Going to drop that a little more, but, cooler weather and it will get better. I really don't want to get it spot on in these temps, because once it cools off to the point I'm riding more, it won't be spot on anymore.

Otherwise, it's running really good now. The counterbalanced engine is definitely noticeable compared to my Hondas and this engine seems to be in better condition than any of them. Very quiet, just the valves ticking away. Still has that factory fresh whine sound.

The biggest reason it's running so good now, is I found out why the main jet that should have been running lean, was severely loading up past mid throttle. It wasn't the ignition. I've been wanting to get the bore scope after it and finally done that yesterday.

Take a guess what the porblem was.
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[350for350]

Man those little F'ers can get EVERYWHERE before you realize it!

[ATC King]

Yeah. It only takes them a day, two at the most to build a nest that size. There's no easy way to keep them out of the trike frames that are fully assembled either.

When I first got this YTM, I ran something up there to check for obstructions and blew air through, so it's been after that. My bare trike frames have red wasp nests inside of them. I should have plugged the holes before setting them up. In the summer, don't ever just grab anything large that has been sitting a week or more without first checking for red wasp, or for that matter, black widows and brow recluse. This place is critter crazy in the summer. Got to plug any holes you don't want them to, and spiders have caused automobile recalls because of their webs (true, fact).

Southern living. At least the bull frogs are relaxing to listen to...the tree frog outside the window right now too.

[patriot1]

Love this build as I am trying (and sometimes promising to quit) to get a Yamaha 225 going. Wish I had the knowledge. Very good work

[ATC King]

Thanks.

It's been learning about something new to me, but I've had everything except the engine off of this frame, so I'm getting to know it pretty well.

The oil flow check bolt on the head is kind of scary. Why does it even need that? :( Makes me wonder if these are bad at not getting oil flow after an oil change and it's going to lunch the top end. It' also got some type of one way oil valve screwed into the case, under the clutch cover. The plastic oil pump gear isn't helping me feel better about it either.

I was browsing for trikes on Craigslist and seen your "Dueces". I haven't looked to see if it's still on there.

[patriot1]

Dueces went to a loving family in East Texas. Great bike. Bought a 125m yesterday that I am thinking about putting my blue plastics from a 110 on. Making major progress on "Sexy black" 225DR that I picked up in Bloomberg, TX. Learning a lot from it for sure. I've ridden it a couple of times but it still needs attention. Looking for an exhaust for it now, might have to buy a new DG but don't want to spend the money.

Are they still cooking fish down there at Nadenes?

[ATC King]

IDK what's on the menu at Nadine's. It's been months since I've eaten there. It's the stereotypical small town haunt, where local girls try to make a living working in a small town café, and the old farts drink coffee all day and gossip. Could be a Hollywood location for an apocalyptic movie.

If in town, may as well say hello to Eddy at the local hardware store that's been there since 1869. Cool place, but it will probably close when he stops running it.

[ATC King]

I made a trip to T-town today to get a few bolts for the YTM. Got some stainless fasteners for the brake caliper and plastic clutch cover...cover. Too dang hot today and after riding the motorcycle, I'm going to wait until tomorrow to put them on a get pics. I ride like a total trailprotrailprotrailpro-hat on the motorcycle, jumping curbs across parking lots and such. Cars and their drivers are so sluggish in town because they can't see squat from their cages, and are so distracted by everything in them, it irks me a little and I put the dual sport to use. Y'all just wait there in line, confused at the four way stop, Ima gona jump this curb, straight into the parking lot. I need to chill out, but it's hard to, sitting in traffic with an air cooled bike.:naughty:

The law has been suspended anyway, as far as I can see on TV and the news. It shouldn't apply to me just try to get where I'm going. :w00t:

It's not like I'm kicking people in the head.


I did put a LED taillight on it yesterday. No, I haven't converted it to a DC system...yet. I use LED marker lights, like those used trailers, that Wal-Mart and auto parts stores sell. I've used these for years as taillights on 12V AC systems. They probably survive well because they are low power and don't produce much heat. They're relatively cheap, so I didn't mind trying them and they seem to do just fine. I do use a voltage regulator though, and it's to protect the headlight bulb. Without the additional draw of the stock taillight, a regulator is really needed. Same as if the headlight blew, it will protect the taillight.

It was typical for Yamaha to use voltage regulators on the two stroke engines. Probably because they turn more RPMs and NEED one to keep from blowing bulbs.

On this YTM, without a regulator, and with the LED taillight, voltage gets above 17V at high RPM. That makes the headlight very bright, but it also severely shortens it's lifespan. The regulator I'm using is keeping it just below 12V, which I'd like to be about 12.5-13, but it's not adjustable. So, a little dimmer headlight, but it'll last longer. TrailTech sells an adjustable AC regulator, and I have one on something else. I'll probably convert this to DC if I keep it, so I'm not fudging around with another AC reg.

[ATC King]

The caliper bracket and cover bolts. Posting this mostly for size.
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I painted the cover. It had some wear on it and was sun faded. An adhesion promoter was applied before paint.
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After removing the angle iron a previous owner welded to the grab bar, to bolt some unknown motorcycle tail light to, I fastened the LED marker light to the OE location by using screw clips. The light already has a rubber back to it.
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The voltage regulator I used are sold on Ebay as a voltage regulator for Yamaha Blaster/Banshee. The adjustable TrailTech one can be bought for about $5 more. I'd just go with that next time. This one has a grounded case, so only one wire to hook up. Not knowing what I'm going to do with the system in the future, I used one of the grab bar bolts to hold this on, nothing fancy.
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Real simple to hook up. I made a little Y connecter to attach it between the OE harness and tail light.
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These can be added to any 12V AC trike. It's needed if going to a LED tail light, and just good insurance otherwise.

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[ATC King]

I've had some time to actually ride this thing now.

I'm probably going to put the #20 pilot jet in. Ambient temps got around 100f a few days ago an it just didn't want to idle. The #25 is just too close to the line. If the #20 lets me get the fuel screw 1-1 1/2 turns out, it should be fine. I don't have jet drill bits small enough to fudge with pilot jets on small engines, I've just got to buy the jets.

The ATC250R forks are working good. I put a little air in them, with a fork air pump I have for my mountain bike. Maybe the springs are weak, but about 5psi made a big difference. They had too much sag with no air. I run about 175psi in my mountain bike forks, yes, 175psi. I'm fat. In case anyone doesn't know, narrow road bike tires often run 110-120psi (that's slightly more than 18 wheeler tire pressures). You have to have a high pressure pump, which a bicycle fork (suspension) pump is. That should put ATC fork air pressure into perspective. With good seals and chrome, you're not going to blow out oil anywhere within the specified fork pressure. Bicycle air forks, for example, don't have any super duper seals. It's just O-rings and oil seals, and and air only, no physical spring.

The '81-'82 250R front disk brake though...leaves me unimpressed. The lever is a little squishy, so I need to bleed it again, but it's not as powerful as I hoped. I know it's a tiny brake rotor, my mountain bike has larger rotors, but it's not any stronger than the front drum on my 185S, which is working great with a freshly lubed cable, good lever, and new(ish) EBC shoes.

Really, my 185S with the rear hydraulic disc conversion and stock front drum, is stronger braking than this YTM with mechanical rear disc and front hydraulic disc. Not that the YTM won't lock the tires, it just lacks the modulation.

I am using a Chinese caliper, which has pads that are anyone's guess as of composition. Is the '81-'82 250R front brake really just a styling exercise or is mine in need of some different pads? What the hell type of pads fit the Chinese caliper (I'll have to answer that one myself)?

[350for350]

I don't know about the calpier, but I had a Chinese master on the front of my AutoX for a short time. I didn't like it. It worked fine, but always felt squishy. There's just wasn't any feeling of building pressure. I replaced it with one off of a CR85 and that works great. All I did was install the Honda master and rebleed the front brake. Maybe the same thing is happening with your caliper?

[ATC King]

I'm using a Honda master cylinder from a XR600R.

After some more riding time, I'll have to update if the pads bed in or are just not good. It looks real close to a ATC250R caliper, so if I buy new pads, that's what I'll buy them for.

It was running so good yesterday, then today the humidity went full helter-skelter, and it wasn't running so well. I've got to put that #20 pilot in.

[ATC King]

I've got a #20 pilot and #105 main jet in the new Chinese carb now and it's running great. Needle back to the middle position. Starts easy, idles good cold with the enricher on, and pulls to the top.

Last time I had something close to a 110 after drilling one of the spare jets, and it was a smidge too rich on the very top. I ordered a 105 and 100 so had some wiggle room.

Someone must have snuck in the shop and filled the front tire with helium. I can barely accelerate in first gear without the front wheel coming up. If it had reverse, it'd be a decent hill climber.

[ATC King]

I ordered some new rear tires. The TrailPros are just too bad too tolerate on a hardtail. Even if I sell it, I can't enjoy riding it with those still on before.

The seat foam is too soft for my heavy self, combined with the concrete hardness of the TrailPros. Something has to give and at this point, it's my spine. A $100 for new 2 ply tires is less than a chiropractor appointment.

I'm sure someone has felt this way before, but anyone who could afford to buy something other than TrailPros for their hardtail, but didn't, should ride a turbocharged pogo stick. Cheap bastards...



I have a long history or riding hardtails, all the way back to being a teenager. Stiff tires have always sucked and left the rider worse for wear at the end of the day. This isn't just an old guy rant.

[ATC King]

Just got around to mounting the new tires today. Later, I'm going to post the crud that I went through to make these wheels last another round, but they are later ones that do have a bead lip, so I'm using them.

One of the new tires had the bead seat with a little bouncing around, but the other was being difficult. I borrowed a fix for that.

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These are also a great tool for curing constipation while simultaneously making people want to kick you in the balls.

[ATC King]

I replaced that beaten up grab bar and homemade rack with a straight grab bar, and also upgraded to a bar from one of the other YTM models that has a toolbox. I got a good condition taillight with it too.

There was a little rust on it, so I blasted it and painted it black. It's got something a little different on it than the US version grab bar, if anyone notices.

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It turns out the taillight socket is actually designed for a dual filament bulb, but only has one lead soldered on from the factory. I'm going to run a LED bulb in this, so I soldered a jumper on, so it'd be a bright as possible.

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[El Camexican]

I recognize those mounts. Cut mine off when I modified the bar to hold a rack. Does your lower triple tree have mounts as well? I always wondered if they went through the trouble of making a different set of dies just for the American models.

[ATC King]

The lower triple has some bumps on the side, which look like they could be machined for threads.

I looked all over EBay at other lower clamps, and some from that northern country, but there weren't any good pictures of that area. It looks like the option is cast in, but not machined on the US models; as best as I can tell.


I'm just wondering if it'll end up on top of me when I overextend the first gear wheelies now. With that rack thing, it was perfect and would just stop with the front wheel up and me rolling off the back so I could get it back down. It certainly doesn't need a rear rack. I could actually stand behind it, push down on the rack, and the front tire would come right up. At most, a six-pack of some type. A OEM front rack would be perfect on this recreational hardtail YTM.

I'm still undecided about keeping it, but the more I work on it, and the more I look up parts, I see that a lot of the bigger/pricier parts are still available (at this time). That taillight assembly is still available new for ~$45.

I'm thinking the Yamaha recreational/utility trikes are next on many peoples list as the Honda prices have gone through the roof. All the sport trikes are up there in price, so I think those are a wash and comes down to preference.

It'd be nice If the front fender was still available from Yamaha. A NOS one sold on EBay a little while back for ~$220 (shipping not included). I'm wondering if the Tri-Z Maier fender will fit.

[ATC King]

Anyone wanting to, needing to, replace the stock exhaust baffle in one of these, Caltric sells one for about half the price of OEM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Muffler-Pipe-Outlet-Spark-Arrester-for-Yamaha-Tri-Moto-200-YTM200-83-85/293080714975?hash=item443cf8cedf:g:qssAAOSwb1Nc0zE o
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qssAAOSwb1Nc0zEo/s-l1600.jpg

The muffler on mine isn't completely trashed, so I decided to put a new baffle in it. Before removing the old one, I had already seen the OEM baffle was still available for ~$60, that way I wasn't up a creek ruining the old one while removing it, in an effort to save the muffler. The muffler has some rust, but the baffle was the worst part and it's didn't come through the extraction unscathed. While looking at exhaust on EBay, I found this Caltric brand replacement.

The stock muffler isn't exactly loud without the baffle, but without it, there's not a spark arrestor. Being still available new, it's worth buying one, only if to put it away (just in case).

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It didn't come with a new bolt, but it's just a typical size metric bolt and I had one laying around.

Taking the old one out, I had a bit of a hard time, because it was rusted in there pretty good and the main objective was to not destroy the muffle while doing it. The new baffle didn't fit very tight into the muffler, but I'm sure the muffler exit is a little wider than it would have been new, or at least with less rust.

[El Camexican]

I think the stock baffles are pressed in before bolting. Even when the trikes were brand new the removal presses was of a destructive nature.

I’ll post a photo of a northern triple clamp in a bit.

[El Camexican]

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You can see the threaded hole on the lower clamp.

[ATC King]

Confirmed: That looks the same as the US lower clamp, it just has the mounts drilled and threaded. So, Yamaha used the same lower clamp, but saved a few pennies on the states version, or charged those northerners extra for the bicycle reflectors.

That pic must have been from when you bought it new. :wondering :) Super Nice!



I did look the baffle over real good before removing it, checking for spot welds, as is common on other motorcycle and ATV OE baffles that have a retaining bolt. Not finding any, I got to tugging away on it, but the baffle had some rust holes, along with the muffler, and I just figured it was really jammed in there from years of use and abuse.

It's good to know they're like that new and trying to remove even a pristine one may result in damaging the baffle. The Caltric one just slid in by hand. I did take a large pair of locking pliers and tried to shrink the outlet around the new one.

The new one got a thorough coating of anti-seize before installation. At some point, I'll likely remove the entire exhaust and repaint it. It won't fit into my blasting cabinet since it's one piece, so I'll have to fill the pressure blaster and do it outside.

[El Camexican]

Photo was taken in 2010 after I rescued it.

We removed the baffles as kids with a screwdriver and hammer expecting an easy 30hp gain with no other mods as confirmed with our very precise neighborhood noiseonometer.

I have a really nice OEM pipe that came with the baffle still in it. I tried to remove it in order to inspect and paint it and realized pretty quick that I’d probably end up damaging it.

[ATC King]

[QUOTE=El Camexican;1516445]
We removed the baffles as kids with a screwdriver and hammer expecting an easy 30hp gain with no other mods...[QUOTE]

You needed the No Fear stickers to notice the power gains.




If these are like other baffles and OEM mufflers, they're supposed to be periodically removed to empty any carbon buildup from the spark arrestor. Like on some of the older Honda XR motorcycles, which had a port or two on the muffler bottom that were removed, then the baffle blocked with a rag, and the engine revved up a few times to blow any junk out.

That was the main reason I wanted to get it out to start with, as I was still trying to sort the engine problems out and wanted to nix exhaust restriction from the equation.

[El Camexican]

You needed the No Fear stickers to notice the power gains.

I wish. I was already in my 30’s when those stickers came out and knew better. I’m from the big red white and blue USA sparkly # 1 and “Ass, Grass or Ass, nobody rides for free” decal generation.

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[ATC King]

At least you were probably smart enough by the time of barbed wire and 'tribal' tattoos to avoid those also. :beer

The hippie slogans and iconography are still popular, so I guess they withstood the test of time. No so much for tramp stamps that are growing hair now. :cry:

[ATC King]

I just repaired the headlight bracket on my YTM200E.

Someone had tried to repair it in the past, and it looks like they used a buzz box.

No after pictures, because everyone knows what a weld repair looks like, but here are a few before pics, as it came off and after blasting.

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After a bunch of light welding and grinding, it did get some fresh paint and the headlight is back to shining where it needs to.

I've been meaning to get to this, because the headlight wouldn't adjust and was pointing just a few feet in front of the trike. I was planning to do a night ride and had to take care of it.

After a bunch of light welding and grinding, it did get some fresh paint and the headlight is back to shining where it needs to.

The thing I noticed, is on the later YTMs or the larger ones, like the 225 models, they appear to use the same bracket (with a key switch and neutral light holes drilled) and added reinforcing plates to the area that mine had cracks.

I'm guessing this was an early issue they had and Yamaha beefed up the later ones. I didn't add anything extra to mine, just stuck it all back together with a MIG. If it breaks again, I'll add some plates.

One for a 225 that's on EBay, for comparison. They also have more junk on them and that may be the only reason Yamaha beefed them up...or not.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Yamaha-YTM200EL-OEM-Headlight-Stay-24W-23174-00-00/183834337912?hash=item2acd616278%3Ag%3AkUoAAOSw8Pp c9JiY&LH_ItemCondition=4
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Easy enough to just buy the later version, especially if someone wanted to add a key switch, and maybe find a use for the two light holes, like adding a high beam indicator. I can't confirm if they're interchangeable though, as far as mounting to the top clamp. The large D shaped hole on either of them is for the enricher cable.

[TrikeKid]

Anyone wanting to, needing to, replace the stock exhaust baffle in one of these, Caltric sells one for about half the price of OEM.


Hey any chance I can get a rough outside diameter measurement on that baffle? The baffle for the 175's is unobtanium at the moment, but that looks close enough to be adapted and save me making a spark arrester.

[ATC King]

47mm diameter, near the end/outlet, not measuring the short flare at the very tip, but the section that slips into the muffler.

~185mm total length.

[ATC King]

My YTM200 had a ticking noise once it go warmed up, even though I had gone over the valve clearance and cam chain tension.

I think I figured it out. The intake valve inspection cover was upside down and the valve lifter was slightly contacting an inside feature. They can indeed be put on either way, but the cover has a shallow and deep side. There's also a small protruding feature that looks a bit like an arrow and that's supposed to be at the top. When upside down, there is some contact which will make noise.

Smooth as buttah now. Derp.

There seemed be a more recent post about valve noise on one of these, but I couldn't find it to reply.

[Royster]

Howdy,
What carb model/size is this? I have an '84 200L and it has a Mikuni 26mm (intake) carb. It has 21V 00 stamped on it. I'm having a hard time finding parts for it. The mixture screwhead is trashed and I can't really adjust it. The one in your photo looks close to the one I have. Just wondering if that rebuild kit would work for my carb. Thanks!

[ATC King]

Better late than never?

Here's the carb I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352833593996

I can't give a solid answer on a OEM carb rebuild kit. Being these are all so old machines, there's not telling what type of ham fisting went on or how much wear is actually on the original carb. Keeping in mind that the new Chinese carbs are most likely going to need the jetting fiddled with and may not even run correctly with stock size jets, I've been very satisfied with them and the price. Just expect to double the purchase price to include some new OE jets to get it right.

Carbs are simple, but with nearly 40 years of unknown history on most of these trikes, it can take some serious cleaning, inspection, and experience to sort out even the original carbs.

If the idle mixture screw on yours is trashed, there's a very good change someone over tightened it and ruined the seat in the carb body. That idle screw is harder than the carb body. When that happens, there isn't a straightforward/simple way to repair it.

[ATC King]

I rode the YTM200 some yesterday. I keep thinking it'd be the first to go if I sell one, but every time I ride it, I remember why I still have it.

The 250R forks were a huge improvement though, as far as ride quality. The springs may be a little weak, but with all the sag and total travel, the front tire just glides over things (when it's on the ground).

It would be nice if the correct recoil cover was on it and the auto decomp worked.

What'd really be nice is if Maier made front and rear fenders for it. First little oopsy I have, these are toast.