What to do with my 350X suspension?

[TSpencer]

So I want to improve the suspension on my stock 350x but not wanting to break the bank. The front has been rebuilt with new slider bushings, oil and seals. The rear seems ok but it doesn’t feel like the compression adjuster makes any changes as I turn the knob. All the way soft and all the way hard feels the same when I push down on the rear end. For race tech to rebuild the stock rear shock is $330. I’ve heard good things about the the gold valve upgrade but that was $550. Front fork emulators are $179 plus $50 to modify the springs. I have a second rear shock but don’t know the condition. It looks ok but no gas escapes when I push the Schrader valve so I’m guessing it’s empty. Is that where the nitrogen gets filled? The threaded part that goes around the valve that the cap screws down on is also missing. It’s just the actual valve sticking out of the reservoir. The shock on the bike now let’s gas out when I tested it. Also the bushings on the spare shock are shot. So looking for advice on what’s going to be the best bang for my buck. Front fork emulators on freshly rebuilt suspension or do the rear which the condition isn’t really known? And which shock do I send? The one on the bike now or the spare in worse condition? I don’t want to lose a lot of riding time. I also have a spare set of fork springs I can send to get modified so no down time for that. I ride mostly on tracks because there’s no land where I live. I like jumps and going fast. Your expert advice is appreciated!

[ATC King]

The first thing you should probably do is settle on what suspension shop or person you want to deal with.

Did you measure the free length of the stock fork springs? Are they within spec? From there, work with your suspension servicer choice and find out what rate fork and shock spring is best for your riding weight and style. Got to have the correct springs to start with or you'll end up spending $$ and won't see the full potential.

Which shock is best to rebuild probably is impossible to say without a complete teardown of each, unless one has visible damage or wear on the shaft. I don't know about how durable 350X shock bodies are, but shock bodies can simply be worn out or damaged too.

If it were me, I'd make sure to at least have the proper fork springs, then spend the rest on a shock rebuild or another shock, for the time being. It's going to be the most involved and unless you buy a new shock outright, you'll be enlisting the services of a suspension guru. The forks are something simpler and typically something most people can do themselves.

Budget is relative, but other than springs, you've got a 50/50 choice. I think on a trike, the suspension with the most wheels to control, does the hardest work.

[TSpencer]

The first thing you should probably do is settle on what suspension shop or person you want to deal with.

Did you measure the free length of the stock fork springs? Are they within spec? From there, work with your suspension servicer choice and find out what rate fork and shock spring is best for your riding weight and style. Got to have the correct springs to start with or you'll end up spending $$ and won't see the full potential.

Which shock is best to rebuild probably is impossible to say without a complete teardown of each, unless one has visible damage or wear on the shaft. I don't know about how durable 350X shock bodies are, but shock bodies can simply be worn out or damaged too.

If it were me, I'd make sure to at least have the proper fork springs, then spend the rest on a shock rebuild or another shock, for the time being. It's going to be the most involved and unless you buy a new shock outright, you'll be enlisting the services of a suspension guru. The forks are something simpler and typically something most people can do themselves.

Budget is relative, but other than springs, you've got a 50/50 choice. I think on a trike, the suspension with the most wheels to control, does the hardest work.

The front springs were in spec and according to Race Tech's spring rate calculator the front should be stock rate and the rear 15.18 for my weight and riding style. I've looked all around for the spring rate of the stock rear shock but no luck. I figured if the stock rate was recommended for the front then the rear shouldn't be too far off. I was planning on using Race Tech if I went with the rear rebuild and if I do the front, have them modify the springs and I can do the install. They told me they modify the front springs to work with the emulators which I believe means shortening them. I guess the rear is doing like 4 times the work since it's controlling 2 wheels with one shock and spring and the front has 2 to control 1, Never thought of it that way...

[Arky-X]

I haven't used them but this will probably be the route I go.....

https://www.schmidtyracing.com/default.asp

I don't think it will be much difference in price than what you have already been quoted but it may be worth a shot.
Like ATC King said, you can do the forks yourself and save some money and then put the $ towards the shock.

[TSpencer]

I haven't used them but this will probably be the route I go.....

https://www.schmidtyracing.com/default.asp

I don't think it will be much difference in price than what you have already been quoted but it may be worth a shot.
Like ATC King said, you can do the forks yourself and save some money and then put the $ towards the shock.

I'd been on their website too. Was contemplating using them as their price seemed less than Race Tech. I also found a local shop called Exxtreme MX. They seemed very knowledgeable based on the website. I reached out to them by email for suggestions and waiting for a reply.

[ATC King]

ATV on Demand done a 350X project and they used Racetech for the suspension work. http://atvondemand.com/1985-honda-atc350x-vintage-three-wheeler-project/

[Dirtcrasher]

Even just having your shock oil changed, valved and a spring installed for your weight will help quite a bit.

If you keep a stock shock, the gold valve seems to be a huge improvement.

I've made a half dozen+ 450R swingarms to fit the 350X, then you can buy 450 axles, hubs, caliper etc etc.

My suspension works fantastic! And because I did all the work and I'm an Ebay hound, I did mine very inexpensively.

Don't give up on your stock shock, it can be reworked and that is your cheapest way out...

[wonderboy]

I built a test stand to measure spring rate and can share what I've observed after measuring a few 350x springs. I've measured three different stock 350x rear shock springs at:
- 11.4 kg/mm (636 lbs/inch)
- 12.7 kg/mm (711 lbs/inch)
- 12.0 kg/mm (673 lbs/inch)

So there is quite a bit of variability in the springs, of course some of this can be due to my measurement setup. However, 15.18 is definitely beyond the margin of error in spring variability and my ability to measure, meaning this would definitely be a stiffer spring. Of all the shocks I've rebuilt for various people, they've always required a stiffer spring based on the RaceTech calculator. I'm 200 and use the highest rate spring they offer.

I did also put the emulators in the front and gold valve in the back, and really do like my suspension. I think the emulators in the front need a bit more involvement from you when in install them to get them tuned how you want, compared to the rear shock gold valve which pretty much you'll get a recommended shim stack from racetech that you just assemble and go.

As for spending money, even just freshening up the existing shock with fresh oil (and seals possibly) can help make if feel better, a new spring will also help. A biggie is really just getting your spring preload adjusted correctly for your weight (regardless of what spring you use). What I recommend to my friends when helping them (and what I've read on-line) is to have the machine sag about 1/3 of the way through the overall travel with you sitting in riding position. This gives the suspension the ability to move either direction from nominal when you are riding.

For priorities on the rear shock, I'd say fresh oil (seals if needed) is the bare minimum. Spring next. Finally, if you want to go all out, new gold valve from RT.

By the way, the nitrogen bladder in the reservoir holds only a TINY volume of nitrogen. Just a tiny press of the valve stem will pretty much let all the pressure out. So, if that was your way to check if it had pressure in it (by pressing the valve and listening for the hiss) you've pretty much de-pressurized it. It'll need to be re-pressurized.

[TSpencer]

Thanks for all the opinions guys- Much appreciated. I have the sag set a 1/3 from what I've read as well. No one seems to have any precise measurements like I do for my dirt bike. The suspension upgrade may be on hold for a while as a new septic system is in order. Original block cesspool from 1973 finally gave up and it looks like I'm going to have to cough up about 7 grand to have it replaced.

[floydechoes2000]

Well that's crappy. Sorry, couldn't help myself. My Dad owned a construction company and I grew up around septic system installs. New ones were nice, redoing old ones not so much but the funniest guy I ever met was a septic tank pumper truck driver. He started with "It's a crappy job but somebody's gotta do it" and just went on and on the entire time he was pumping the old tank out, like 20 minutes of non stop jokes, he should have been a stand up comedian. I wish I could remember any of his other jokes but it was a long time ago.

Sorry to hear though, no one wants to spend money on that. 7K is cheap, it definitely could be worse.