Atc250r light(s)

[DDQ]

Can anyone tell me what the max wattage is I can use for headlights on a stock 85 atc250r lighting system with a tail light? I am not interested in doing a DC conversion at this time and just want to know what the biggest single or dual lights are I can mount for an upcoming dune trip. Thanks.

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[deathman53]

65 watts, unless you get a rewound stator. There used to be new stators that claimed 200w, not sure how much I would trust it. I would get a dc conversion, the best lights are LED light and require DC to work properly. Cyclops sells the ac-dc conversion that fits on the headlight plug, if you don't want to convert the whole system.

[DDQ]

65 watts, unless you get a rewound stator. There used to be new stators that claimed 200w, not sure how much I would trust it. I would get a dc conversion, the best lights are LED light and require DC to work properly. Cyclops sells the ac-dc conversion that fits on the headlight plug, if you don't want to convert the whole system.Thanks!

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[deathman53]

on my dirtbike I have baja design lights, squadron pro headlight and 2 xl80 lights. When you say "let there be light" there sure is a ALOT of light, they are abit on the heavy side. The xl80's I believe draw ~4 amps each and squardon pro is ~3 amps and its DC. I made wiring harnesses w/ relays to handle the power draw and keep it away from the switches. You can find any kind of relay you need from Mccarr Master. Eastern Beaver is a good source for any type of connectors you may need. Take all of this into consideration. On another dirtbike I have a cylcops 7000 lm h4 and rigid 6" single row light bar, it lights up very good, however I don't know if I would use it in the dunes. I have the 6" dual row rigid on my truck...wow, alot of light, but its heavy. As much as I hate to sound like a salesman, I would call up baja designs and rigid, discuss what you are working with and what you are looking to do with it. The 200w stator is very much recommended, Ricky Stator made them, not sure if he is still around. You will have to make brackets for the lights, most of them are somewhat designed to fit on dirtbikes, so with some tweaking then will fit a atc250r. Hope this helps you out, if needed, I can send you pictures of how the lights are mounted on my dirtbike, but you are kinda dealing with apples to oranges in the front end setup. I don't even have lights, nor can put them on my atvs, they are track only machines.

[ps2fixer]

65 watts, unless you get a rewound stator. There used to be new stators that claimed 200w, not sure how much I would trust it. I would get a dc conversion, the best lights are LED light and require DC to work properly. Cyclops sells the ac-dc conversion that fits on the headlight plug, if you don't want to convert the whole system.

Not sure where you got the specs from, but the service manual says the alternator factory is 159w @ 5,000rpm. Stock headlight is 60w for 86, 45w for 85. There's a voltage regulator in the system to protect from over voltage.

https://i.gyazo.com/2708b3d0c0e9158c02a260c022e877dd.png


So the real answer is as big as you want (I think they go upto around 75w), however excess heat could be a problem. LED's are a good alternative and are more power efficient (more light per watt), but as stated their power supply works best with DC voltage so a full wave rectifier should be used, and ideally a small battery or capacitor to smooth the voltage out.

[DDQ]

Not sure where you got the specs from, but the service manual says the alternator factory is 159w @ 5,000rpm. Stock headlight is 60w for 86, 45w for 85. There's a voltage regulator in the system to protect from over voltage.

https://i.gyazo.com/2708b3d0c0e9158c02a260c022e877dd.png


So the real answer is as big as you want (I think they go upto around 75w), however excess heat could be a problem. LED's are a good alternative and are more power efficient (more light per watt), but as stated their power supply works best with DC voltage so a full wave rectifier should be used, and ideally a small battery or capacitor to smooth the voltage out.So the stock stator should be able to power two 55w halogens without any issue?

Thank you for that info!

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[ps2fixer]

Yea that'd be 115w total draw, low rpm the lights might dim a bit but cursing rpm I'm pretty sure it should be good.

[DDQ]

My 55w lights came in yesterday and I started making the light rack. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190827/2970c3900edf546e93968cd237cd920a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190827/27c4bcb590a2743723762217fc1ea2be.jpg

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[DDQ]

.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/2b92cb8e48c0e753a7092a990487b2f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/cd770d9147ece6a3bcae985a4cbf913e.jpg

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[DDQ]

Can I splice the single high beam wire into both power wires on the 55w lights or will that be too much draw for the single supply wire? I want to run both lights at the same time.

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[ps2fixer]

110w / 12v = 9.17 amps of draw. Stock was 60w/12v = 5 amps.

Another thing to take note of is the light control switch's rating which I'm pretty sure has no public ratings, however honda used the same design of switch for most atvs, so the one with the most lights that I can think of is a 450 foreman or maybe a 680 rincon.

450 foreman = 25w x2 + 45w and 5w x2 for the tail lights so 105w total
680 rincon = 40w x2 + 5x x2, or 90w total.

Seems the upper usage for the switches is about what you're using, but pretty sure the switch should be heavy enough for the draw.

According to this link, you're pushing the limits of the 18 gauge wiring, but should work fine. I'd keep an eye on the wiring and listen to make sure the head light switch makes good contact when you switch the lights on. If you wanted to help the wiring out slightly, you could run your own ground wire that's heavier directly to the headlights, the headlight switch only works with the "hot" wires white and blue.

https://www.securitypower.com/Other/securitypowerCOM/04%20-%20Application%20Notes%20-%20Tools/AN-2-12_Application_Note.pdf

If you add a connector from the main harness to headlight wiring, make sure it can handle the amps, pretty sure you'd be safe with a 1/4in spade. The stock headlight uses a "H4" connector which uses 0.312in terminals. Here's a link for the right connector if you wanted to plug and play with your existing harness. For ease of building it, I'd say use some 14 gauge wire on the 3 terminals about 6in long, then splice both headlight wires to each related wire for the H4 connector, so it kind of makes a Y shape. Don't forget to use adheasive heat shrink to properly seal the splice, and you'll likely want to solder the wiring together unless you have the proper crimper to crimp splice terminals (the site sells those too).


http://www.cycleterminal.com/headlight-connectors.html

[DDQ]

110w / 12v = 9.17 amps of draw. Stock was 60w/12v = 5 amps.

Another thing to take note of is the light control switch's rating which I'm pretty sure has no public ratings, however honda used the same design of switch for most atvs, so the one with the most lights that I can think of is a 450 foreman or maybe a 680 rincon.

450 foreman = 25w x2 + 45w and 5w x2 for the tail lights so 105w total
680 rincon = 40w x2 + 5x x2, or 90w total.

Seems the upper usage for the switches is about what you're using, but pretty sure the switch should be heavy enough for the draw.

According to this link, you're pushing the limits of the 18 gauge wiring, but should work fine. I'd keep an eye on the wiring and listen to make sure the head light switch makes good contact when you switch the lights on. If you wanted to help the wiring out slightly, you could run your own ground wire that's heavier directly to the headlights, the headlight switch only works with the "hot" wires white and blue.

https://www.securitypower.com/Other/securitypowerCOM/04%20-%20Application%20Notes%20-%20Tools/AN-2-12_Application_Note.pdf

If you add a connector from the main harness to headlight wiring, make sure it can handle the amps, pretty sure you'd be safe with a 1/4in spade. The stock headlight uses a "H4" connector which uses 0.312in terminals. Here's a link for the right connector if you wanted to plug and play with your existing harness. For ease of building it, I'd say use some 14 gauge wire on the 3 terminals about 6in long, then splice both headlight wires to each related wire for the H4 connector, so it kind of makes a Y shape. Don't forget to use adheasive heat shrink to properly seal the splice, and you'll likely want to solder the wiring together unless you have the proper crimper to crimp splice terminals (the site sells those too).


http://www.cycleterminal.com/headlight-connectors.htmlThanks!!! I will wire it up tonight. I think I have everything I need.



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[ps2fixer]

No problem, let us know if you have enough light once you get to test them out xD.